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Let's see your upper deck benchwork

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  • Member since
    July 2014
  • 189 posts
Let's see your upper deck benchwork
Posted by Hobbez on Sunday, September 6, 2015 9:36 AM

The renovations of my layout building are to the point where I can start on benchwork.  I am doing a two level layout, but they are not connected as they are two different scales.  I am contemplating benchwork for the upper deck.  I bought Tony Koester's multi-deck layout book, but it only has 6 pages on benchwork.  I am looking at a few ideas such as metal brackets or L-girder with a gusset plate.  The upper deck is 24" or less wide and mostly foam, so I don't need really heavy construction. 

I am curious what others have done to see if there are any better ideas than what I have in mind.  If you have a multi level layout and you have a few pics of the benchwork, could you post them up, please?

My layout blog,
The creation, death, and rebirth of the Bangor & Aroostook

http://hobbezium.blogspot.com
  • Member since
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  • From: Richmond, VA
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Posted by carl425 on Sunday, September 6, 2015 10:28 AM

Hobbez
The upper deck is 24" or less wide and mostly foam, so I don't need really heavy construction.

24" may be a modest depth for a lower or single level layout, but it's pushing the envelope for a second level - both for the challenge of supporting it and the reach to the back. You also need to consider rigidity, not just the weight you have to support.  And don't forget, at some point in the life of the layout, you or somebody else will lean (or fall) against it.

If the back third or more of the upper deck is mountains/hills that slope up and away from the front of the layout, consider a traditional grid with diagonal braces above.

 

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

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Posted by Doughless on Sunday, September 6, 2015 10:36 AM

carl425
 If the back third or more of the upper deck is mountains/hills that slope up and away from the front of the layout, consider a traditional grid with diagonal braces above.
 

Excellent idea Carl!  That way, there is no annoying brackets to conceal with the bottom level's backdrop.

- Douglas

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Posted by doctorwayne on Sunday, September 6, 2015 3:17 PM

I considered using top-mounted support brackets, too, but didn't like the thought of having to create a whole new backdrop to hide them when I already had a backdrop in place.  My upper level varies from 25" to 38" in depth, with most of it being 31".  I used custom-made brackets with 1 1/2" angle iron for the vertical member, with a  1" angle welded to it for the horizontal support.  The layout is 1"x4" and 1"x2" framing with a top of 5/8" t&g sheathing plywood.

The brackets are affixed to the wall studs with 3 1/2" lag bolts, and the rear member of the layout framing is also screwed into the studs.  The 38" deep portion is only 9' long, and is self-supporting, with three sides of its rear framing screw-attached to the wall studs - it also helps to support the portions attached to it.  The 12' long upper staging yard is also self-supporting in the same manner, but with additional centre support added around a jackpost supporting the house:

Here's a picture shot with the camera on the lower portion of the layout: 

Two support brackets are visible, along with the upper plywood and its framing, although unseen is the 1"x2" framing member sitting directly atop both horizontal bracket members.  The undermounted fluorescent lights are also visible.

The lower level was always intended to be operated from rolling ofice chairs....

...and the view from them reveals neither the support brackets nor the underslung fluorescent light fixtures.

Visitors have leaned on the upper level, which is in the early stages of track laying, with no apparent issues, although once scenery is in place, I don't see that being a problem, as most people are considerate enough that they respect the effort put into a layout.  Others may find themselves leaving with broken arms. Smile, Wink & Grin 
I don't know if the bracket-supported sections would hold my full weight (and am not about to test them).  However, I will need to be atop the 38" deep portion, in order to install a turnout where a track enters staging, which will be located in another room, and am confident that it will support me.

Wayne

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Posted by Southgate on Sunday, September 6, 2015 5:15 PM

My layout is basically an upper deck, my workbenches and everything else in the layout room are undernieth it. At 4'10 deck height, I wanted support that didn't get in the way of anything under the layout. I welded 2x2 angle steel brackets and screwed them to studs in the walls  at or close to the points where sections of benchwork join together. The brackets themselves are from the floor to the bottom of the benchwork, and make an inverted"L" out to the outer edge of the benchwork. I did have gussets on some of them, but learned that these are not needed for the weight of the layout.  These are very strong, and a guy could make them the support system of the lower deck as well, by making them "F"s

When I do need to heft my 200 lb plus weight up onto the layout, at some points these alone are enough to support my weight, but where additional support is needed for this, I simply stick in a notched 2x4  to the bottom of the bench to the floor.  Since you are starting out in an empty room, (sounds like to me) designing these in from the start should be pretty easy and straightforward.

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Posted by rrebell on Sunday, September 6, 2015 10:24 PM

Metal brackets will work fine with 2" foam. If you really are worried about it, just put one on each stud, way overkill but really secure. You can mount a 1x4 on top of the bracket giving you a bigger glue area for the foam and full support.

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Posted by mlehman on Monday, September 7, 2015 5:39 PM

Hobbez,

Agree with Carl Yes 24" is pushing the envelope. It's both luxurious and troublesome for anything to be that deep, that high up. Now if you have unlimited overhead and can do mushroom style stacking of your deacks, that might change, but that's a complex endeavor and you're looking for simple.

I' ll offer the first page of my Cascade Branch thread as a representative example.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/219241.aspx?page=1

Eventually I get to Crater Lake and its quarry and a wye all in a dogleg area in my utility room. That area is, um (just around the corner) just almost exactly 48" deep. I didn't plan it so much as it just grew -- and the tail track still could be another car length to be fair.Embarrassed

The latest system...a more comfortable ~16" -- this is a sensible and easy goal to achieve, but could be somewhat crowded for things like the switchback in On gauges.

[pic coming soon]

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1600x1200q90/537/Ptly6b.jpg

I offer Crater Lake as a temptation, but not so much as a good example.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1600x1200q90/661/sCYFVZ.jpg

I've been reasonably succesful operating it, but visitors can be frustrated. At eye level and several feet distance, perceptions of progress can be frustratingly vague. But we're working on better signage.

Geeked Local route maps, what an idea.

Anyway, be happy to add detail to anything I did that's not clear.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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