I just bought a LifeLike P2K SW 9/1200 in Toronto Hamilton and Buffalo livery. It is new in the box but it suffers from the common warped handrails along the side of the engine. Does anyone know if there are replacement sets available from another manufacturer? Alternately, is there a way to straighten the ones that came with the model?
I just sent an e-mail to Walthers to see if they have replacements.
Thanks
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
For handrails, I'd go a little heavier...perhaps .015". Make them out of music wire, stainless steel wire (from Detail Associates), or phosphor bronze wire (from Tichy). Use the existing handrails as patterns for the wire ones, then cut the handrail portions from between the stanchions and drill them out to accept the wire. Thread the plastic stanchions onto the wire, then install them on the locomotive. Line-up everything, either by-eye or using a machinist's square, then use the tip of an X-Acto #11 blade to apply ca to each joint - a touch to the railing on each side of each stanchion ensures that the ca is drawn right through the joint, then, after each joint is complete, use a rag or tissue to soak-up any excess cement. Don't forget to apply ca to the base of the stanchions, too - it won't stick to the engineering plastic, but it will stick to the styrene body shell, creating a decent interference fit around the peg on the stanchion's base. Use a brush to paint the handrails.
Here's a modified Atlas RS-3 with music wire handrails on the sides. Paint is SMP Accupaint, and lettering by Accucals:
Another Atlas, an RS-1, done for a friend. This one also has the end handrails re-done with wire. More Accupaint and Accucals, although the freelance roadname was done with Champ alphabet sets:
Here's a TH&B switcher in helper service. Note how the handrails are thicker than the grabirons on the side of the hood.
Wayne
Thanks David and Wayne:
Here is the problem:
Replacing the hand rail itself is a no brainer, but how do I do the attachment points? The molded details are really fine so I think trying to core the the stantions, or stand offs, or whatever they're called would be next to impossible.
I guess if I can't get replacements then I will have to do some fancy soldering. I agree with Wayne that .015" phosphor bronze would be more practical than .010" despite it being oversize prototypically. The railing on the opposite side is straight so I want to try to match it as closely as possible.
Anyhow, please keep the suggestions coming.
Thanks again.
Send http://www.smokeyvalley.com/ a email and see if they can help.
Jim
For the hood-side handrails, it's quite easy to make eyebolts using .012" soft brass wire from Detail Associates. I learned this when I decided to replace the cast-on grabirons on the roofwalks of most plastic freight cars. The pictures below illustrate the technique for that purpose, and the only difference is that you'll need to close the gap, as you'll be able to thread them onto the pre-formed handrails (I'd do both sides, both to keep them similar in appearance and to improve their durability).Use phosphor bronze for the railings and brass for the eybolts. Before doing any bending, clean the wire by drawing it through some reasonably fine wet/dry sandpaper - this will make the soldering much easier.
I made the jig shown using clear maple blocks, glued together with white glue. The only part you'll need is the portion with the two pieces of .015" music wire sticking up. Use smooth-jawed pliers to make a bend in the soft wire, then insert it between the two wires and use the pliers to complete the bend. If the bent portion of the wire is too long to close, use an old X-Acto #11 blade, working on a hard surface, to snick-off the excess - this gives a clean and precise cut, and is also a good way to cut the formed eyebolts from the stock piece of wire, but make sure to prevent them from flying away as you make the cut.If you're planning to solder the railings together on the model, make the eyebolts longer than needed - that will allow you to place wads of wet tissue around the base of each so the the heat won't melt the plastic shell. The excess can be cut off once the handrail is completed. If you're not comfortable soldering on the shell, use a divider to measure the distance between the holes in the hood, then transfer those measurements to a block of wood and drill to accept the eyebolts and the ends of the handrail. I use the tip of a #11 blade to apply a dab of flux to each joint, then use fine resin-core solder - it takes only a touch of the iron to solder the pre-cleaned wire. If you accidentally apply too much solder, it's easily cleaned-up with a file.
Wayne:
Thanks for the demonstration. I have been trying to make eye bolts by hand but the results weren't good enough to use.
Jim:
Thanks for the link to Smokey Valley. I have sent them an e-mail as you suggested. They don't list anything specifically for an SW 9/1200 but they do offer part# 102 - Plastic Hand Rail Tees which might look more prototypical than simple eye bolts.
Wayne,What you do with a jig I have done by hand and eye. I suppose that's a dying or even dead old school modeling skill..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Larry:
Why do you suppose that using a pair of pliers and your eyes to form grab irons and other wire shapes is a dying skill? I do it all the time, and I'm sure lots of others must do it too. Your methods are just as legitimate today as they were 50 years ago.
Here is just one example where everything had to be 'eyed' because no two pieces were the same:
However, when I need consistency, like I did for my caboose fleet end platform hand rails, I use Wayne's methods.
Dave,I found its easier in some cases to order replacement handrails then make them like I did years ago. I dunno maybe I just got older( diffidently) or lazier (more like). I haven't seen much of that type of modeling going on.
Excellent work on your cowcatcher.
.
Thanks Brakie!