Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Repowering GP 7 LL 2000

1101 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 48 posts
Repowering GP 7 LL 2000
Posted by copeia on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 4:49 PM

Hi,

I want to repower my GP 7 LL 2000. I removed the shell and decoder and separated the weight from the frame.  Now, it is time to emove the motor.  Have pulled, tugged and pried over a 2 day period.  Seems there is a screw holding it in but can't find head. Tried to pry off rubber "caps" from bottom but that isn't working either.

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • 29 posts
Posted by Tom M. on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 6:15 PM

I use a small screw driver to "pop" the motor mount out of each hole in the bottom of the frame casting. There is a small fillet around each mounting post, so it will take some pressure to force it out. Regards, Tom

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 48 posts
Posted by copeia on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 7:33 PM

I guess I haven't pushed hard enough.  I'll go do that right now.  Thanks.

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 48 posts
Posted by copeia on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 8:12 PM

Tom,

Tried what you said.  I guess I still wasn't pushing hard enough.  It ddn't work again, so I pried on the motor from the inner surface of the frame with the flat part of the blade.  The motor finally came loose and I lifted it out.  The motor was isolated with a thin, narrow strip of what appears to be inexpensive masking tape.

 

I remember now, the engine was purchased from someone at a local train show. 

I have a replacement motor but think I'll look for another.

Thanks for your help.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 48 posts
Posted by copeia on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 8:16 PM

Forgot to mention.  I had to pry the motor mounts out after removing the motor.

Thanks.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 48 posts
Posted by copeia on Wednesday, March 4, 2015 8:31 AM

Would not have ever considered that.

Thanks.

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • 29 posts
Posted by Tom M. on Wednesday, March 4, 2015 10:14 AM

For remotoring P2K GP7/9s (and GP30s), I like to use the Kato motors designed for their GP35s and SD40s. These have the 4 pin montor mounts that fit perfectly in the frame's mouting holes. Small screws inserted from the bottom hold the mount in place. You may need to do some minor frame milling to get it to fit properly. These Kato motors have hex openings in the flywheels. The openings are a perfect match for the new Athearn hex drive shafts. I simply replace the P2K worm gear with the new Athearn worm and hex shaft used in their GP9s. I also cut out the section of the P2K weigh that used to span the motor area. I do this to make room for the Tsunami sound decoders. This leaves the weight in tact at the end of the long hood and the area between the cab and motor. The loco is still plenty heavy enough even with this portion of weight removed.

I have also used the Stewart F-unit motor for many projects.  Namely, I installed this motor in 20 former Front Range GP7/9 frames and also used Stewart EMD B trucks. In this application, the Stewart truck worm ball was replaced with an Atlas worm ball.  This was then mated to Atlas GP7 drive shafts to make the final connection between the motor and trucks.  The result is an very smooth and quite running locomotive which mates well with other Atlas/Stewart/Kato locomotive.

Good luck, Tom

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!