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Bachmann 0-6-0 front coupler

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Bachmann 0-6-0 front coupler
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 31, 2014 7:02 PM

Some may remember me discussing this project.  Well I finally sat down and did it. Here are the results.

and a side by side comparison with the original underframe

Side by side comparison photo Sidebyside_zpse571ef7d.jpeg

 

The coupler height is a little low, so I will have to take it off and file down a little on the underframe, but that can wait.  And that gruesome hole on the front will get a piece of styrene.  Used a No 37 coupler (medium underset shank).

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 1, 2014 11:07 AM

Update,  attached a piece of styrene over the hole above the coupler.  I removed the coupler box lid that was installed, this raised the coupler about .010", to an now acceptable for operations height.  I have also added a coal bunker extension using what I think was .010 styrene, but it could be larger than that. 

Was planning on moving the headlight to better match B&M 446 a class G11b locomotive (second from bottom)

https://sites.google.com/site/bostonandmainerailroad/home/boston-maine-steam-locomotives/b-m-class-c-d-and-e/b-m-class-f-and-g

 Any suggestions on how to go about this would be greatly appreciated.  Also was planning on adding a back-up light to the tender (right now it just has a hole in it).  Photos to follow after I acquire lunch.

0-6-0 with tender photo 0-6-0continued_zps97d19443.jpg

 

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Kansas City Area
  • 1,161 posts
Posted by gmcrail on Saturday, August 2, 2014 1:40 AM

To move the headlight, simply cut it off, patch the hole with styrene and fill the cracks with a good filler, sand smooth.  Get another headlight casting (a bunch of good brass ones out there), add a platform and drill holes as needed.  I would somehow put a mini bulb in the headlight, run the wires back to a diode triangle in series with the motor, and voila! a working headlight with a scale-sized bulb!  (Note: requires careful front-to-rear alignment, so the reflector in the headlight picks up the filament properly.)

---

Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com

===================================

"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins

===================================

http://fhn.site90.net

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Franconia, NH
  • 3,130 posts
Posted by dstarr on Saturday, August 2, 2014 10:07 AM

I picked up one of those a while ago.  Didn't look like much when it came to me, but it did run.

 

Cleaned it up and did some wire grab irons and piping.

Back from the paint shop.  Couple of coats of Rustoleum dark grey auto primer.  Front coupler is now a Kadee.

Kadee had instructions for couplers on the 0-6-0.  I downloaded them and printed them out.  Makes a nice B&M switcher for any period before 1957.  B&M bragged to be completely dieselized by 1957. 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 2, 2014 11:42 AM

Have you given any thought to adding tender power pickups?  I looked into the Kadee No 5 coupler spring method and it didnt seem feasible.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Franconia, NH
  • 3,130 posts
Posted by dstarr on Saturday, August 2, 2014 3:05 PM

BMMECNYC

Have you given any thought to adding tender power pickups?  I looked into the Kadee No 5 coupler spring method and it didnt seem feasible.

 

 

Mine runs smoothly enough so I haven't bothered.  If I were to add tender pickups, I would install metal wheels and make axle wipers out of phosphor bronze.  I have a piece of phosphor bronze weatherstripping that makes excellent wipers.  Don't use brass, it isn't springy enough to make a good wiper.  Don't use wheel tread wipers, they have too much frictional drag.  And put plenty of ballast in the tender. 

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