2-6-6-2 with a tender - After I ballasted some of my track - I was testing it with my 2-6-6-2 and it was derailing about every other time I ran over one turnout and I kept working to get the area a the turnout clear of problem gravels - and one time when I rerailed it - the front drivers stopped working.
Any suggestions.
The Eccentric Crank may be loose and may have rotated 90 or more degrees causing the drive train to sieze. I had this happen on a Bachmann 2-8-0.
How old is this logger you have? Mantua made one many years ago that used a piece of rubber tubing as the drive shaft between the two sets of drivers, and it tended to dry rot and slip a lot. If yours is the newer model, it may be made the same way.
If the problem with your loco is not locked up side rods, you may have to open it up and check the drive shaft. With Model Power now out of business, you're likely to have a hard time finding a replacement if it is the drive shaft.
cacoleSounds right to me. You would be much better served if that is the problem to replace the tubing with a North West Short line universal joint How old is this logger you have? Mantua made one many years ago that used a piece of rubber tubing as the drive shaft between the two sets of drivers, and it tended to dry rot and slip a lot. If yours is the newer model, it may be made the same way. If the problem with your loco is not locked up side rods, you may have to open it up and check the drive shaft. With Model Power now out of business, you're likely to have a hard time finding a replacement if it is the drive shaft.
In case You need it:
http://hoseeker.net/mantuainstructions/mantua2662articinstpg1.jpg
http://www.hoseeker.net/mantuainstructions/mantua2662articinstpg2.jpg
Click on diagram, for a blown-up view
Frank
Edit: If you do find that it is the drive line plastic tubing, you can use fish tank pump tubing, weed wacker gas line tubing,etc.
WVWoodman,
The diagram I linked is from a 2005/2006 Loco, they both have the same drives, tubing.
If the front engine tubing coupling has died, you can replace it with model airplane fuel tubing. I've used it on a number of locos.
So far my cosmetically modified Mantua chassis hasn't needed that kind of TLC. If it does, I'm ready.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with a 2-6-6-2 that never ran there)
Gee! I wonder if NWSL offers a replacement coupling? (Or one that could be adapted)
LensCapOn,
If they don't make one exactly for that Loco, you can probably get parts to do it yourself, but there really is nothing wrong with using the tubing. I have some brass Loco's that use them, I just replaced the rubber tubing with tubing that has already been suggested. No problem's.
Take Care!
I don't have the exact issue date at hand, but back about 1989 MR had a cover article on upgrading the Mantua 2-6-6-2 that included replacing the tubing with NWSL parts.
A search found the article - October 1991 - however as of now I can not access it.
It is the line between the two sets of drivers - I fished out the linkage - but still have not attempted to take the driver off to see what I can do to fix it.
I wouldn't remove the drivers yet. If you haven't already, remove the body shell from the chassis. If it has the rubber tube connection, you then can easily disconnect it. The front drivers should roll freely then. If not, there's a hitch with the drivers that may need correcting, like a burr on one of the axles or a driver out of quarter. If it does roll freely, the problem is with the connection between the front and rear drivers.
No rubber tubes between motors. Just a piece of linkage T shaped on both ends rotated 90 degrees. The side rods came out of the cylinders and have been an impossible task of trying to get back where they belong. For right now I give up.
WVWoodman No rubber tubes between motors. Just a piece of linkage T shaped on both ends rotated 90 degrees. The side rods came out of the cylinders and have been an impossible task of trying to get back where they belong. For right now I give up.
Don't give up, but do take a break and approach it after you've had a good night's sleep.
The procedure for putting the Mantua valve gear and piston rods back into place is indeed a bit tricky, but quite easy once you get the hang of it. You have to first remove the eccentric crank and main rod from the driver, then doing one side at a time, insert the crosshead guide into the cylinder block, then slide the piston rod in. Lodge the crosshead guide into the frame extension (check the rear set to see how it should go). You will need to rotate the cylinder block upward slightly, then while keeping the crosshead/guide/piston rod assembly in place with one hand, repeat the process with the other side with the other hand. Like I said, tricky, but do-able. And you have to kepp everything firmed up and connected while you fasten down the cylinder block. Then replace the rods and eccentric crank.
Remember that when you reset the eccentric crank, you need to angle the crank on each side 10 degrees forward. Easiest way is to is to move the drivers so that the counterweight is up, then using the ol' Mark I eyeball, rotate the crank forward until the end of the crank is over or just past the edge of the wheel hub, then tighten it down.
Good luck!
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
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