benchwork legs

[yankee flyer]

Hi Lynn

Although in a past life,(I'm 75) I did a lot of cabinet work, when it comes to a model railroad layout in the basement I'm all for moderate priced materials.
The last 8' addition to mine I used a 4' X 8'  sheet of plywood, I don't remember the actual grade but there didn't seem to be any voids in it.
I still have my cast iron table saw so I ripped the 4' X 8' into joist, beams and legs. I don't expect any warping or shrinking of the plywood.
As for ajusting the height of the legs, I shim the table level then drop a short piece of scrap 2" X 2" in the "L" of the leg and and put 3 or 4 screws in it. Simple an effective. IMHO

Have fun.

Lee

Oh, The legs are straight although from the camera angle it may not look that way. 

 

[bogp40]

mlehman

2x2 will work fine, just be sure to brace it in some form or fashion, as Jim shows in his pic.

I used 2x2 for a lot of my layout. But for the large center peninsulas, I constructed pairs of well braced frames that had T-section legs made from 1x3. These hold up my main L-girders in those areas. The T-section legs are nice for this, because they provide a place for the ends of bracing to nestle up against.

Another trick to use for bracing at the top of the legs is to cut plywood gussets that can be screwed to the leg and to the L-girder or stringer at the top.

 

Agreed, even a combination will work depending on the mountind and method of bracing.

For a bit more stability, place a horizontal brace closer to the base of the leg. Although the 2x2 or "L" 3/4" is quite strong, an unintentional "kick" will "shake" the layout as the leg flexes.

My club layout is somewhat large and free standing, we use various methods for leg/ bracing. For added stability, each leg is attached to the concrete floor w/ brackets and Tapcons. This may not be acceptible as many can't drill/ anchor into nice floor and/ or carpet.

For such a heavy freestaning layout, the bracing shown is very stable.

[mlehman]

2x2 will work fine, just be sure to brace it in some form or fashion, as Jim shows in his pic.

I used 2x2 for a lot of my layout. But for the large center peninsulas, I constructed pairs of well braced frames that had T-section legs made from 1x3. These hold up my main L-girders in those areas. The T-section legs are nice for this, because they provide a place for the ends of bracing to nestle up against.

Another trick to use for bracing at the top of the legs is to cut plywood gussets that can be screwed to the leg and to the L-girder or stringer at the top.

[riogrande5761]

4x4 would be tremendous overkill and would hold up a house, but 2x2 should work fine.  Here is a photo of my benchwork in the process of going up:

 

[mokenarr]

I did what Frank did using Birch Plywood and I think I could run a real train on it , really strong.  On the bottom I glued a square peice and mounted some leg levelers from Ace Hardware    

[zstripe]

I would use the 1x4's L shape like Carey, suggested, inside corners they will fit perfect and easier to put on sway braces, on the inside of frame. I personnally use 1x3's, that I rip myself and the frame is 1x3's, I have a rather large layout, open grid and flat, 121/2x40x12/12, 1/2 exterior ply, plus 1/2 homasote. Nothing moves, you can sit on it, if you had to. My experience only.

Frank

BTW: Should mention, it is all glued, with yellow carpenters glue and drywall screw's. Some parts are glued and nailed with a CH air brad nailer, like the legs.

[cjcrescent]

2x2's placed where needed will work. But you could also use 1x4's placed in an L configuration, or even 2x4's. On my layout, a 3-level affair, I have 2x4's on the backside of the layout, 2x2's on the front. The top level has the 2x4's in the back and is attached to the ceiling via threaded rod in the front. My layout is 17'x23' and is accessible from all sides.

 Probably anything you want to use would be acceptible.

[Anonymous]

I´d be using 4" by 4"´s, connected with a 1" by 3" as a crossmember to form a figure "H". The crossmember should be located in the lower third. As floors are never level, I suggest using something like this:

... to level the layout.

[wickman]

Hi  guys

I'm about to  start the benchwork for the new layout and I  want  to do it best I  can  this time around.I'm going with  the  open grid around  the wall  benchwork. I  will be  using 1x4  pine for frame  work.

 Was curious  what is suggested  for the legs for the layout. I'll  post  the trackplan as well so  you get the feel   for  the  structure of  the benchwork.

thanks

Lynn