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Brass loco

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  • Member since
    September 2012
  • 107 posts
Brass loco
Posted by shanny10 on Monday, June 24, 2013 1:52 PM

B&O  Baltimore & Ohio T-3a 4-8-2 Mountain WSM Samhongsa Brass .

Considering purchasing a brass loco from e-bay and was wondering if this would work on 22" radius, I feel it may at lower speeds on the tight spots of 22" but look really nice on the 30" turns. I would really like to get this and add decoder and lights to it and rivets on tender as a first time project as the price is quite reasonable presently. I know there's plenty of people here that have more experience than I and was just curious as to this engines overall reputation and capabilities of smaller turns. Thank you

Shannon

Shanny10

B&O, C&O, PRR

Just lovin trains

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 2,314 posts
Posted by don7 on Monday, June 24, 2013 3:31 PM

I have a number of PFM Moutain engines, mainly Samhongsa made and they vary, some will run on a 22" radius curve, others not.

http://hoseeker.net/pacificfastmailinformation/PFM251978pg27.jpg

there are two northerns on that page, one will run on a 22" the other will not.

Sorry, I do not have the model you are looking for, I would try to contact someone who has the model and ask them.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,312 posts
Posted by locoi1sa on Monday, June 24, 2013 5:33 PM

Shannon

  Hit or miss on the 22 inch radius curves. As for going digital you will have to see if there is an open frame motor or a can motor. I don't bother to re motor my open frames if they are in good condition. I super tune them with rare earth magnets and polish the commutator. Get rid of the drive tubing and get some silicone fuel line for RC planes and go through the gear box and clean and lube the gears and bearings. Check the drivers for proper quarter and reassemble the chassis without the gearbox and motor. It should roll across a sheet of glass with all the side rods and valve gear minus the gear box. Assemble the gear box and motor and temporarily power it up and get an amp draw at 12 volts under load but not stalled. This amp draw reading will decide on what size decoder you will need. Lots of work ahead of you and take your time doing it. Take lots of pictures before dis-assembly and mark your wheels loco and tender either right or left. I usually scribe a small line on the inside of the left wheels. This way I don't get that short when it is reassembled.

  Some of my projects. They each have decoders and LEDs for lights.

This switcher came with the can motor and draws less than 1/2 amp so the Locsound Select micro fit nicely in the ash pan under the motor and the speaker in the tender is a medium oval. 

http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/locoi1sa/library/Brass%20B6?sort=3&page=1

This F3c is a great runner and pulls like a bear. The Losound Select decoder in inside the tender and SMLED for a headlight. I wired in a six pin JST connector for loco and tender separation.

http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/locoi1sa/library/F3c%202-6-0?sort=3&page=1

 This K5s Pacific was my first brass paint job. Runs great and sounds super with a large oval speaker in the tender.

http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/locoi1sa/library/K5s%205698%20project?sort=3&page=1

  The K5s will not go around a 22 inch radius even though the center driver is blind. It is just too large.

          Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • 107 posts
Posted by shanny10 on Monday, June 24, 2013 6:06 PM

Thank you for the replies, from what we saw on hoseeker it looks exactly like top photo and requires 24". I wish it would have worked but we will just have to keep looking for something smaller with right price.

Shannon

Shanny10

B&O, C&O, PRR

Just lovin trains

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