I finally got my ancient layout Re-commissioned and working with virtually no derailments. I run it for 30-60 minutes at a time. All dc. I replaced all couplers with Kadee, changed trucks, metal wheels, all new wiring (though its a spaghetti bowl mess) cleaning track constantly, and so on. Good advice from everyone in the hobby.
Now I'm at a point of wanting to wire in blocks for multiple trains on same layout and an eventual move to dcc.
Before starting the new wiring project I decided to rotate my 4x8 sheet layout 180 degrees so my control position would work better with future scenery and expansion-and in doing so I tore some accessory wire apart, but no big deal I can fix that easily. But before I did that I installed that neat Tomar industries brass bumping post I always wanted on one of my spurs.
Without the insulating joiners that come with the bumper. I used brass joiners..
Don't ever do this.
It shorted out the whole layout and I spent a whole week trying to figure out what was wrong. In the process I discovered why I was getting whisps of smoke from the table; the short caused the plastic ties at the power supply track connector to melt - but just to be sure, i did this twice.
But after remaining calm and carrying on I proved to myself that my locos and power supplies were ok so it had to be in the track. Finally today I remember putting the bumper on right before everything went bad, and when I looked at it I realized my mistake was not using the insulated rail joiners.
So maybe my stupidity will help others realize that as long as you work backwards from the problem to check all the changes you made you will eventually find the problem. But I also started from power supply working forward and realized same thing, somewhere in the track.
Since its obvious I don't know electricity enough to have prevented my mistake I don't know if I would have been able to discover the problem with a multimeter. I tried but don't really know how to properly use it so gave up.
Sorry for the long message. I hope it's useful to someone.
Kg
Gidday, Hats off to you Sir for admitting to making a mistake, .
I once thought I had made a mistake, but then found that I was mistaken!!!!
Cheers, the Bear,
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
kgillSince its obvious I don't know electricity enough to have prevented my mistake I don't know if I would have been able to discover the problem with a multimeter. I tried but don't really know how to properly use it so gave up.
(I wish there was a hysterical laughter smiley)
Had this exact same problem down at the club two weeks ago. We were trying to put a long ago installed switchback siding into service. Got all the wiring installed, and then had a short every time we threw the turnout to the track in question. Spent a couple hours looking for a hidden track feed (it is a club, so who knows who might have wired the track originally) and couldn't find anything. The member who did know how to use a multimeter finally found the problem, but quite by accident. He was poking around the track and I believe that his probe leads happened to touch the track bumper.
It was bad enough that someone had installed a metal bumper without insulating one of the rails. But the problem was compounded by the fact that this area had been paved over to give a track in the street effect. So after some colorful language, Dr. Dremel was called and surgery performed.
Look at the bright side. At least you didn't make the other common mistake of leaving the metal Kadee coupler height gage on the track and forgetting where you had used it last.
My "stupid short" story is that I was laying track. Using mat-medium to hold it down. Ran out of normal weights so I used quart cans of paint. Went to work on some other stuff and eventually got to some that required power. Don't know how long it was (at least an hour) before I realized, HELLO the paint cans holding down the new track are metal... I felt so stupid.
kgillNow I'm at a point of wanting to wire in blocks for multiple trains on same layout and an eventual move to dcc.
kgillNow I'm at a point of wanting to wire in blocks for multiple trains on same layout
Once you get this accomplished, it will be a relatively easy task to find a similar problem in the future.
Jim
I was taking the approach that I might never get to the DCC level but want to have a little more fun with what I have. And re-teaching myself some skills I had as a 10-18 yr old that I have forgotten. But also as SOO pointed out, I can at least isolate sections to solve my problems if any crop up.
Im also showing my 8 yr old son some wiring, soldering skills. He is a fairly good wire stripper. Not totally into the train just yet, has seen some local BIG club layouts and wants to join there to drive the layout. No matter what we both get something out of it.
so what would you had done if you hadn't remember to check the last thing you did before things went bad? (which was a smart thing to do)
I've had to debug both hardware and software problems that seem totally impossible (femtocell development)
The thing to do is try to isolate the problem. Do what you have to do prove to yourself what works and what doesn't. In your case, if this means electrically isolating half of you layout, then spend the time to do so. And once you figure out which half doesn't work, split that half in half.
Be methodical. Yes it takes some effort and patience, but you should always be able to solve your problem. You might be surprised how quickly this works.
congrates and good luck sherlock !
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Hi Kg,
IMHO this is exactly what you should not do. Block wiring allows you to run multiple trains. Though running more then one is already difficult when you are the sole operator. Beside running a train you'll have to set toggles in the right position all the time.
DCC is doing the very same. It gives you control over every engine on your layout with just two wires, without needing any blocks at all; without bothering at all about the position of toggles.
If you are really considering to change to DCC, do it in stead of cab-control wiring.
Paul