Once in a while I have a Kadee coupler that will act up. What is happening is, when I back the train up; or stop too quickly, the coupler will lock in the open position and the small coil spring can't seem to overcome the drag in the action to close the knuckle again. Most of the time, I have applied a small dusting of graphite powder into the joint between the body of the coupler and the knuckle, worked the action vigorously and this has fixed the problem. Now, I have one in particular which does not seem to loosen up. My guess is the small pin that holds the knuckle into the coupler body and is also gland hand and pivot of the action, has corroded. After applying the graphite, I work the action many times and can't get the coupler to stick open. However, when I put the car back in the train and back up, the coupler will lock open once again. I have applied graphite and done the process all over again several times, yet I am still having the problem.
Besides replacing this problem coupler, does any one have suggestions and has anyone else had a similar problem?
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
Interesting, I've NEVER had that happen to a real Kadee coupler - even ones that have taken a nosedive to a cement floor. I DID have it happen to nearly every Proto 2000 (not the new Proto-Max - the ones back before Walthers bought Life Like) coupler that came with my various P2K locos - the knuckle james wide open and no amount of force seemed to put it back where it belonged - and that was WITHOUT rough handling - which is why I repalced every single one of them with Kadee. The worst I've had is some sticking a bit after painting, but working them back and forth a bfew times loosens them rigth back upBack in the day I used to follow the instructions to the T and use a small metal rod to burnish the moving faces of each and every coupler, but I haven't done that in years. The idea being to make sure there was no metal flash from the casting process and make sure the surfaces that slide against one another are perfectly smooth. Might be worth a try.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
NP,
If it's the only coupler that's acting up on you, it may be that it's just defective. I would just replace it and be done with it.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
NP2626Besides replacing this problem coupler, does any one have suggestions and has anyone else had a similar problem?
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I may end up changing it out, I was hoping someone had a fix. This is not the first time this has happened. It's only the first time that my standard process for repair hasn't worked.
rrinker, I can assure you this is a real Kadee # 5, my standard coupler and burnishing the face of the knuckle would have nothing to do with my problem.
Hard as it is to believe, even Kadee has a defect now and then - but I suspect their decfect rate in like 1 in 3 million.
I vote for simple replacement and disposal.
Sheldon
i have had a couple of number 5's act that way and i was too inept or too lazy to figure out the problem so i just replaced them. better things to do than fret over a cheap item like one coupler.
charlie
That problem is usually caused by the top end of the "glad hand" being inserted too far into the coupler - the upper end of it has a "V"-shaped groove across the end face, the purpose of the groove being to spread the ends of the wire slightly to keep it from slipping downward. Either there's a burr where the "V" was formed, and it's catching on the coupler head as it rotates, or the "V" hasn't spread sufficiently and the wire has slipped too far down and it's slightly-oversize diameter is causing it to bind.
Using pliers, you should be able to grasp the trip pin from below and push it up slightly, revealing more of its upper end. Either a little clean-up work with a file to remove any burrs or slightly spreading the "V" by grasping each side, in-turn, with small pliers to increase its width should fix the problem. Otherwise, simply replace the coupler.
I usually save some of the trip pins from those knock-off plastic couplers which come with some rolling stock, as they will usually fit into a Kadee coupler. To remove the troublesome pin, push it up while gripping it with pliers from below, and when enough of it is revealed, grip it from above to withdraw it completely, allowing it to follow its natural curve. Installing the replacement is the reverse of the removal.
Wayne
NP2626,
I know you are not going to like,what I'm going to say,,,,but the time you spent,typing the post,reading replys and so forth,,you my have been able to replace,two sets of couplers already.. Why is this happening? isn't always worth wasting your time over....Just my thought!!
Cheers,
Frank
I had a KD #148 to do the same..I replaced the coupler..
The down side..
I have a odd coupler that will probably never be used.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Are you sure it's a Kaydee coupler? I've never had one fail like that. The only problem I have with Kaydees is the knuckle springs pop out. Accumates and Mchenrys that I get on new cars both in HO and N scale are notorius for that failure especially when using a skewer to uncouple..
retsignalmtr Are you sure it's a Kaydee coupler? I've never had one fail like that. The only problem I have with Kaydees is the knuckle springs pop out. Accumates and Mchenrys that I get on new cars both in HO and N scale are notorius for that failure especially when using a skewer to uncouple..
Many, many years ago I stopped using anything but Kadees, so I'm ab-so-lutly positive it is a Kadee #5 and like I've said, this is not the first time this is happened. The car this coupler is on, has been in use for many years without this problem. So, this is a problem that has developed overtime and not a factory flaw.
I enjoy working on problems and attempting a fix. Others may think it foolish of me to not just replace this coupler! However, a part of the work I've done in my lifetime is trouble shooting mechanical equipment, so I don't just simply give-up on something.
Thanks Wayne for your suggestion, you must be a trouble shooter, too!
Contrary to popular belief KDs are not perfect..I been using KDs since '68 and had several to mechanically fail and one to break-from fatigue I suspect.You may go years without a single incident.
I lost count of the springs that flew off or became fatigue from club use and no longer worked as design..
As far as N Scale..I hate the slinky action of MT coupler and Accumates worked ok on my dining room table switching layout but,I sure enough wouldn't want to use 'em pulling long trains.
The new Walther Protomax II is a great coupler..Its all metal and looks and operates like a #5.I don't replace these couplers.
Call me lucky, but in my 10 years of HO scale layouts, I have never had a Kadee fail, and I use various types of Kadee couplers on all of my locos and rolling stock.
Rich
Alton Junction
A possible cause of this problem, is during the summer it can get humid in my basement and this might cause a rusting of the pin, which of course is steel. This would cause the action to be sticky.
zstripe NP2626, I know you are not going to like,what I'm going to say,,,,but the time you spent,typing the post,reading replys and so forth,,you my have been able to replace,two sets of couplers already.. Why is this happening? isn't always worth wasting your time over....Just my thought!! Cheers, Frank
I understand what your saying, Frank. You look at it as a waste of my time and I look at it like it's a fun challenge. As far as my time is concerned, as long as I'm enjoying myself, I feel it is time well spent!
NP2626 A possible cause of this problem, is during the summer it can get humid in my basement and this might cause a rusting of the pin, which of course is steel. This would cause the action to be sticky.
The moist conditions may be the culprit, however, I have bought used equipment that almost every metal part showed surface corrosion and the Kadee still worked. I have never had a problem w/ a #5 in over 20 years, it may be possible that you did indeed get a bad batch. Wayne notes a posible problem and the fix. If you still continue to have intermittent problems and may show it to be rusting, try a penetrating oil to lossen up the pivot. I too like to use graphite during coupler installs to burnish the shank and the knuckle head.
Another note, not related to the binding: I had a bulk pack some years ago that seemed to have a bit more anodise/ paint on the shank making centering sluggish . I lightly sand the shank by rubbing it on a worm piece of wet-dry #600. It smooths ot the paint and almost burnishes the surface. Just one added step I will do for every install.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I have a Kadee,coupler,that sometimes,would stick open,,I tried,my normal fix and for some reason,it didn't work this time,so I replaced it. But I am curious,if anyone ever had this problem before and if you have a viable solution????
Hi,
Sounds like everyone has given you sound advice, so mine will certainly be a repeat....... Anyway........
I've had KDs since 1973. I honestly cannot recall having a problem with them that couldn't be fixed by a little filing and/or graphite. They typically just do not corrode but you could have dirt/ballast dust or "whatever" that got into the hinge. I would work on it to a point, and if no clear results - throw it away.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
MOBILMAN44,
I am not the original poster.....and don't have a coupler problem..
Cheers,zstripe
NP2626I understand what your saying. You look at it as a waste of my time and I look at it like it's a fun challenge. As far as my time is concerned, as long as I'm enjoying myself, I feel it is time well spent!
I have seen this before. Put a drop of oil on the top of the coupler where the lever pivots. Work it back and forth a few times and see what happens.
Jim
richhotrain Call me lucky, but in my 10 years of HO scale layouts, I have never had a Kadee fail, and I use various types of Kadee couplers on all of my locos and rolling stock. Rich
Well that has been a lively discussion and I agree with the suggestions that after a short period of time in trying to repair/adjust it is time to replace....
NOW, have any of you ever tried using Kadee #37s for F-units. I was trying to get one together last evening.
I don't have trouble with other models/styles, but the spring on the 37 is impossible for my eyesight and missing fingers. Sure wondering why Kadee wouldn't just charge an extra fee and send these #37s out assembled. I am interested in hearing your replies as I can't see anyone` finding this easy or enjoyable.
Maybe it is just me, But I doubt it.
Johnboy out.................................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Problem cured! A small dab of Marvel's Mystery Oil on the pin and some vigorous working of the action fixed the stickiness of this coupler.
I'm surprised at how most of you would have simply given up and replaced the coupler! Total time invested in the two failed attempts and final repair was maybe 5 minutes. Yes, the cost to replace would have been less than .80 cents. However, I just don't throw in the towel at the slightest inconvenience and I find pleasure in fixing things. I guess we truly are a throw away society!
Thanks for the suggestions Soo Line Fan and Dr. Wayne.
Well, speaking for myself, I would do all that my 40 years experience with KDs has taught me, including the graphite and light oil application. That would take perhaps 5 minutes to satisfy me that it could be fixed or not.
These are KDs we are talking about, and they just don't go bad - unless there is a series reason.
Anyway, it would only take 5 minutes max for me to determine if it could come back to life or not.
When a coupler has exhibited the same problem on more than two occasions in a given period of time, I don't care how easy the 'fix' is, it gets tossed. With all my other problems I don't need a pain in the butt coupler adding to them. One thing I don't use anymore is graphite. It invariably finds it's way to the rails and causes severe traction issues, severe enough that a Proto 2000 GP30 couldn't pull a modest consist of eight cars as the wheels were slipping so badly. That kind of stuff put me off of graphite permanently.
NP2626I understand what your saying, Frank. You look at it as a waste of my time and I look at it like it's a fun challenge. As far as my time is concerned, as long as I'm enjoying myself, I feel it is time well spent!
I agree with Mark on this. Fixing a small problem like this may save only a small amount of money or take-up too much of your time, but what you learn from attempting the repair is wherein lies the value. And that's true even if you end-up replacing the part.
doctorwayne NP2626I understand what your saying, Frank. You look at it as a waste of my time and I look at it like it's a fun challenge. As far as my time is concerned, as long as I'm enjoying myself, I feel it is time well spent! I agree with Mark on this. Fixing a small problem like this may save only a small amount of money or take-up too much of your time, but what you learn from attempting the repair is wherein lies the value. And that's true even if you end-up replacing the part. Wayne
Send Sam Clarke a e mail,i had a wisker scale coupler with a missing wisker and Sam sent me a replacement and a extra pair to boot,Kadee has the best couplers and CS Dept in the MR industry.
Russell