The Lehigh Valley Railroad, the Route of the Black Diamond Express, John Wilkes and Maple Leaf.
-Jake, modeling the Barclay, Towanda & Susquehanna.
It may be sad,,,but alternately, true,a lot of people, today,don't have or for that matter want to have,the skills to repair things themselves.. As far as some are concerned,it don't work so I'll get rid of it.....
Cheers,
Frank
Should have said,,, ''ultimately'',,, but I think you or anyone,understands.....
I may be on the lookout for orphans and abandoned locos, after all the SP&S got most of it's stuff second hand.
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
zstripe ...a lot of people, today,don't have or for that matter want to have,the skills to repair things themselves.. As far as some are concerned,it don't work so I'll get rid of it..... Cheers, Frank
...a lot of people, today,don't have or for that matter want to have,the skills to repair things themselves.. As far as some are concerned,it don't work so I'll get rid of it.....
I totally agree. Even "simple" repairs are often cast aside in favor of just buying a new of whatever is damaged or not working. I've learned a lot (good and bad) by just throwing caution to the wind and at least making the attempt.
Enjoy.
"Ladies and gentlemen, I have some good news and some bad news. The bad news is that both engines have failed, and we will be stuck here for some time. The good news is that you decided to take the train and not fly."
I'm with you guys. I found a nice Atlas GP40 that the guy gave up on after having a friend try to do a decoder install, and he just got tired of it being around.
You know the old saying about "One man's junk........"
Mike.
ps. a quick "off-topic" question, How do you guys high light a portion of a previous post, to put in your reply?
Thanks.
My You Tube
mbinsewi ps. a quick "off-topic" question, How do you guys high light a portion of a previous post, to put in your reply?
There are at least two ways of doing it: you can highlight the stuff you want by clicking on it, then hit the "Quote" button. Only the highlighted portion will be quoted.
The other option is to simply quote the whole post, then delete the unwanted portions from your composition window.
I only learned of the former method a couple of days ago, but you can also quote from multiple replies by opening the same thread in another tab, then quoting pertinent posts there. Remove the extraneous material, then "Copy" what remains, and "Paste" it in your composition window here. That way, you can respond to multiple posters in a single post of your own.
Wayne
doctorwayne There are at least two ways of doing it: you can highlight the stuff you want by clicking on it, then hit the "Quote" button. Only the highlighted portion will be quoted. The other option is to simply quote the whole post, then delete the unwanted portions from your composition window. I only learned of the former method a couple of days ago, but you can also quote from multiple replies by opening the same thread in another tab, then quoting pertinent posts there. Remove the extraneous material, then "Copy" what remains, and "Paste" it in your composition window here. That way, you can respond to multiple posters in a single post of your own.
Thanks Wayne. I never noticed the "quote" button before.
zstripe. . .a lot of people, today, don't have. . .the skills to repair things themselves. . .
Hey, I represent that comment. . I am lucky if I can change a light bulb without studying a YouTube video first. But seriously, that's what the experts at the train store are for--fixing my problems.
Richard
RideOnRoad zstripe. . .a lot of people, today, don't have. . .the skills to repair things themselves. . . Hey, I represent that comment. . I am lucky if I can change a light bulb without studying a YouTube video first. But seriously, that's what the experts at the train store are for--fixing my problems.
Richard,
My understanding is,in order to change,a light bulb,you need at least,three guys,,, LOL
Gidday, In the 1:1 world there are "hands on" persons and those who aren't but have other skill sets. It stands to reason that it's the same in the model railroading world. Just be thankful that we're not all hands on (in my case "paws on" ) people otherwise there wouldn't be the bargains like you got. Nice One!!!
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Bear,
I'll bet, Broadway Lion, can tell us, all about, '' paws''.... LOL..
zstripe RideOnRoad zstripe. . .a lot of people, today, don't have. . .the skills to repair things themselves. . . Hey, I represent that comment. . I am lucky if I can change a light bulb without studying a YouTube video first. But seriously, that's what the experts at the train store are for--fixing my problems. Richard, My understanding is,in order to change,a light bulb,you need at least,three guys,,, LOL Cheers, Frank
In my case, maybe 6!! LOL!!
Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry
I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...
http://modeltrainswithmusic.blogspot.ca/
The use market can be a treasure chest of good deals.
.I picked up a used Athearn CR RTR GP40-2 missing the handrails for $10.00.I bought a set of the newer CR plastic handrails for $6.00 and I have a $65.00(street) RTR GP40-2.My cost? Less then $20.00 and that includes the shipping for the handrails.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
cedarwoodronI came across a Proto 2000 BL2 at a swap meet last weekend, priced at $30 and offered at a "show discount" of half off. On the test track, it did the "early Proto 2000" thump, indicating cracked wheel gears, but otherwise ran smoothly. For $15, it was a bargain waiting to be bought. I just ordered new Athearn gears, as per advice of several MR comment threads and found the right Kadee couplers in my spare stuff parts drawers to replace the cheap Proto ones. Okay, I spent another $7.00 for the gears, but now I will have a very nice, albeit used, model that I have want for quite some time. My point- I find it hard to believe that someone else (the previous owner) couldn't have been bothered to solve the problem first. The solution was so easy! This is why I have been going to the used market (swap meets) for my engines and cars for several years. There is plenty of train set junk there, to be sure, but also much that can be rehabilitated with some modicum of skill. The current ( and likely, permanent ) fashion for RTR comes at a significant price in these tighter economic times, but today's latest greatest will soon be yesterday's swap meet bargain. There you will find me and other orphan hunters! Cedarwoodron
This started out as a $19.95 train show find. Fixing it up was quite a few pleasant evenings tinkering in the shop. It's now my best steamer.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I have to tell you, over half my stuff (rolling stock and motive power) is either used or older releases "new" in the box, although we never know for sure whether it's really new. I can say, however, that almost without exception, what I bought is either in very good shape or fixable. Every now and then I'll buy something that is really new, or a new release. I love going to train shows for that very reason. I've even found some very good deals on building structures, either already build or as kits, still in the box. My last locomotive acquisition was an Erie GP7 Atlas yellow box. If it isn't new, it sure is close to it. Some might say that the $75.00 I paid for it was too much, but an Atlas with Kato drive (Which is what they were using back then), to me is well worth every penny. I saw a comparable Atlas locomotive at a train show back in about 1995 and it was going for $150.00, so the GP7 was still a deal if you ask me.
One of the Atlas FP7's (70's era) that I bought within the last two months cost me $30, about half the average price. It had been stripped and had motor trouble so that accounted for the price. But I already knew it was going to require work. It also had a broken truck that wouldn't stay in the frame. Another easy fix with some ns rail and JB Weld. Changing out the motor took about an hour because it wasn't a like for like swap. The loco was basically a wreck but with a little work somebodies trash became my treasure. I have many other locos I've rebuilt and some that I built from assorted pieces in the junk box. Just because something doesn't work for you doesn't mean it can't work for somebody else.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Cedarwoodron,
Congratulations! You certainly got a very good deal as even on ebay BL2s start at prices in the $30 range but can wind up with winning bids in the $60 to $100 arena with some still needing their gears replaced .
I have a fleet of P2K units and can attest to the adage that with basic maintenance they're nice running locomotives with good dimensions and detailing.
Are you planning any modifications to you BL2?
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"