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windex paint stripper?

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  • Member since
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  • From: Toronto Ont. Canada
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windex paint stripper?
Posted by rambo1 on Monday, March 11, 2013 10:44 AM

can it be used as paint stripper on a athearn loco or will it take along time? rambo1..

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Posted by G Paine on Monday, March 11, 2013 11:13 AM

I doubt that it would work. You would be better off getting some 90% rubbing alcohol. I have used this in the past on Athearn BB locos. In a few hours, you should have a bare plastic shell. Soak for a while, and scrub with an old toothbrush to help remove the loose paint.

George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch 

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Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, March 11, 2013 11:29 AM

I agree with George, I use 90 (actually I think it's 91%) rubbing alcohol.  Read the label when you buy, as it comes in 70% too.

There are some cleaners that work, but you have soak the model for days, as it's usually the ammonia in the cleaners that soften the paint.  Takes too long.

Mike.

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Posted by jrbernier on Monday, March 11, 2013 11:55 AM

  Windex with Ammonia will work - But will take too long.  Windex alone or mixed with water can be used as a 'wetting' agent for pre-soaking ballast before dribbling diluted white glue or Matte Medium.

Jim

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Monday, March 11, 2013 12:04 PM

By my experience it just doesn't work very well. 90\1% alcohol is the better bet. I've been using it for years.

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Posted by pirate on Monday, March 11, 2013 12:42 PM

Several years ago, I used to use automotive brake fluid.  I'm not sure how it compares to the rubbing alcohol.

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Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, March 11, 2013 1:55 PM

I remember reading a post on soaking models in brake or tranny fluid to remove detail parts without prying, and breaking,  if your going to strip a shell down to the casting.  Reminds me of an experience, years ago, (way too many) using a little MEK to remove some decals......WOW.....lol...what mess.  Through that experiment, I did discover how MEK could be used as an instant plastic "weld".

Mike.

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Posted by rambo1 on Monday, March 11, 2013 3:12 PM

good advice guys thanks I have access to 99% alcohol will try that or maybe too strong? rambo1..

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Posted by rambo1 on Monday, March 11, 2013 3:32 PM

I am using 99% isopropyl alcohol is that bad?rambo1..

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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Monday, March 11, 2013 5:03 PM

Rambo, I hope these are helpful.

A couple of years ago I posted these photos on a thread where I paint stripped a P2K E-unit and a P1K RDC shell.  The 91% alcohol has worked well for me so far on my projects.  Good idea to wear gloves, which I am in the photos, as the alcohol will dry out your skin, which in cold weather can feel quite unpleasant. Tongue Tied

Typically, Life Like Proto, Rivarossi, IHC, Bachmann, AHM, and Walthers modelers are easy to paint strip with this alcohol. Paint often starts to float off within 5 minutes and is soft enough to scrub off after 30 minutes. High humidity actually helps the process.

HOWEVER, I will say that some of the 1970s vintage Athearn Blue Box units can be stubborn (as I found out with a Milwaukee Road BB FP45 shell).  Those can require a much longer soaking period.

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by jrbernier on Monday, March 11, 2013 5:27 PM

rambo1

I am using 99% isopropyl alcohol is that bad?rambo1..

Nope - Just rather expensive if you have to pay for it!  To the other poster who mentioned brake fluid - Brake Fluid will suck the oil out of the plastic, resulting in rather brittle models.  This varies from plastic  to plastic.  Isopropyl alcohol is the safest way to strip a paint job with 'off the shelf' products.  Scalecoat 'Wash-Away' and Floquil 'Easy-Lift-Off' are two model railroad specific products.  Chameleon paint stripper has been very good for me over the years, but I have heard that it may no longer be available.

Jim

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

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Posted by cedarwoodron on Monday, March 11, 2013 6:15 PM
The higher the alcohol percentage, the less water is in the mixture. I shy away from 99% alcohol, as I worry about it drying the plastic out too much, if a shell is left to soak too long. I worry less with 91%. The 70% is too weak for my likes, There is a biodegradable product called SUPER CLEAN, which I get in large containers at Walmart in the auto aisles. It does an excellent job of stripping over 24 hrs. Sometimes I follow with a brief 91 alcohol bath (for the plastic shell!) to get some corner and other tight areas. Use a medium bristle toothbrush for good scrubbing- one previous poster recommended trimming the bristles down on the toothbrush to get a firmer cleaning action. Cedarwoodron
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Posted by CTValleyRR on Monday, March 11, 2013 6:43 PM
The old-fashioned Windex with ammonia is a fairly effective stripper for acrylic paints, but it doesn't do much for solvent based paints. Personally, I like E-L-O, as suggested by Jim above, although since Floquil's acquisition by Testors, it's been sold under the Testors brand name rather than Floquil.

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Posted by hon30critter on Monday, March 11, 2013 9:40 PM

As has already been said, brake fluid will make the Athearn black shells VERY brittle, to the point where they will crumble if much force is applied while scrubbing off the paint. I learned that one the hard way!

I use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol with good results. In Canada there is very little price difference between the 91% and 99% versions, and I have soaked some shells for several weeks in the 99% stuff with no ill effects. I didn't intend to leave the parts there that long by the way. I simply forgot what I was working on. It was one of those "OH Gosh - what sort of a mess will this be?!?" when I discovered the tub at the end of the bench after several weeks. Apparently no harm done.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by HaroldA on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 6:41 AM

Just be sure whatever type of stripper you are using - wear gloves, a mask and keep it away from every source of ignition. 

There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....

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