Hi. I'm new to the forum. I've recently tried my hand at modeling a pond and lake. I've been using W.S. Realistic Water. I pour a thin coat of the product and after about 12 hours, the product begins to crack. Any tips on what I may be doing wrong? Thanks!
I've used the product a couple of times but, thankfully... didn't have this problem. Was the bottom perfectly smooth? Was the amount you poured an 1/8th inch or less? I know this question is way out there but what was the overnight temperature in the room?
Jarrell
Welcome.
I'm afraid part of the hobby is something not going just as planned. I think we've all been there and done that in one area or another.
Have not used WS RW, but do have a small pond done with Envirotex.
In addition to the above questions, what is the base of your pond made of? Was it completely dry when you poured your water? I used plaster and let it dry for several days, then painted it, waited a few days then started pouring water. Pours were usually a couple of days apart, so they had dried. If you are using Sculptamold for your base, I would recommend letting it set even longer to dry before painting, as I found it somewhat slower to dry when I used it other places.
As usual, I suggest making a tent out of a paper bag or newspaper, over your pour, so that dust and other unwanted materials to not find the surface of your pond.
Good luck,
Richard
Thanks for the reply. The bottom wasn't smooth because I had painted different colors on it using acrylic paint. I only poured about 1/8 inch and the room temp is always at 67.
Thanks Richard. The room temp is always 67 degrees. The bottom was painted with acrylic paint and was a bit rough. I only poured 1/8 of an inch deep. The base is plywood. I wonder if I'd be able to peel the stuff up?
If you haven't done it yet, give the folks at Woodland Scenics a call. They are extremely knowledgeable and quite willing to help you. I am in the final stages of a harbor extension to my layout, and plan to use Realistic Water to model my 1' by 4' harbor. I called WS several times and spoke with Kathy (don't know if it's Kathy with a K or a C), and she saved me from making several simple but serious mistakes. Realistic Water, being acrylic, can react negatively with some other mediums. There is no such thing as a stupid question, especially when it can save you a do over. Check out the FAQ's as well at woodlandscenics.com.
Will.
Did you just paint the plywood, then pour the WS Realistic Water, or did you make a shallow basin of plaster or Sculptamold to form the bottom? Any time I have seen discussions on pouring water, some sort of basin was formed to pour the material into. If you went directly onto the painted plywood, that may make a difference. Just a guess.
If you had a basin of plaster or Sculptamold, you could get it off, not sure if you are right on the plywood.
Although not a great fan of the Realistic water, I haven't had any problem w/ it cracking. What I don't like is that it is much too soft a product (rubbery or plastic like) tends to not really level @ or around edges and rocks, stumps etc. Even after it is cured, anything placed on the surface will start to dent or sink. I would recommend using Enviortex Lite for the pour. The Ws Acrylic does has uses for doing quick mud puddles, drainage ditches etc. but for larger water features, just not happy w/ it at all.
Try a second pour to just fill the cracks. If they are still obvious I venture to say that you may have to remove it. If it is to be a muddy or swampy pond, adding debris to hide and using the Envirotex might hide the mess below. Tinting the first thin layer if applicable would also help.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I would second the idea of making another pour of the realistic water. I have used it several times with no cracking and have poured several layers to get the look I wanted. I have just made a sixth pour on a T-Trak module to get the depth I want. The first and second pour was with some realistiuc water that was opened about 10 years ago. It was poured over rough, painted Hydrocal.
Thanks. I don't currently have any Sculptamold. Would Smooth It work as well? Either way, could I still use acrylic oil paint on top or do I need to use a liquid paint? Joe
I would think any plaster like product should work for the base of your pond.
You used the term "acrylic oil paint". Acrylic and oil paints are two different things. Acrylic is a water based paint, oil paints are oil based. Acrylic paint in a tube looks much like oil paint in a tube. As far as I know water based acrylic or craft paint should work alright. I am not sure about the oil paints, they might react with the WS product causing your problem. Check your products and see which you are using. When talking about oil paints, I am not referring to the solvent based hobby paints, but artist oil paints that come in a tube,
Another thing, if you happen to be using oil paints they take much longer to dry than
Sorry for the confusion. It is an acrylic water based paint. Another person suggested using Envirotex Lite so I ordered some and will give it a try.
cowman I would think any plaster like product should work for the base of your pond. You used the term "acrylic oil paint". Acrylic and oil paints are two different things. Acrylic is a water based paint, oil paints are oil based. Acrylic paint in a tube looks much like oil paint in a tube. As far as I know water based acrylic or craft paint should work alright. I am not sure about the oil paints, they might react with the WS product causing your problem. Check your products and see which you are using. When talking about oil paints, I am not referring to the solvent based hobby paints, but artist oil paints that come in a tube, Another thing, if you happen to be using oil paints they take much longer to dry than Good luck, Richard
readingdispatcher Sorry for the confusion. It is an acrylic water based paint. Another person suggested using Envirotex Lite so I ordered some and will give it a try.
You can tint the Envirotex w/ drops of acylic/ even craft paint if you feel the water will be too clear. mrB and others have also had success in doing so. Tinting the first layers will also give the added depth of the water once you pour the final clear on top. I have even placed small debris/ fine grasses etc. between layers for swampy or a pond scum look. Cat tails, tall grasses can even be placed before the final coat thickens. Just not sure what water feature you are doing.
I have used Realistic water on several applications and never had it crack.
I always use a plaster cloth base, then apply Hydrocal to seal the base. It does not need to be smooth. I then paint the Hydrocal, after it dries, with a latex paint.
The one problem that I have had with Realistic Water is with multiple pours. Even if the pour is no deeper than 1/8 inch, it tends to cloud up badly and then takes weeks to clear. Woodland Scenics recommends no more than two 1/8 inch pours.
If your pour has cracked, it could be because it was applied directly onto plywood, or it is too old, or you made too many pours.
You could scrape it up with a putty knife and start all over, and if it is cracking, that may be the best thing to do,
Rich
Alton Junction
Thanks to everyone for the ideas. I removed the old stuff and started over. Started with a layer of plaster cloth. Got it smooth. Then a coat of latex.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put the paints down without have harsh transition lines between colors?
Will finish up with Envirotex Lite as many of you suggested. Joe
readingdispatcherDoes anyone have any suggestions on how to put the paints down without have harsh transition lines between colors?
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Never considered that Jeff. Can you take me through each step? Do you start with a black bottom? Use any blue or green?
Great pix and god ideas. Thanks.
Take your basic earth color and paint along the edges of your pond. Then, while that is still wet, take a dark color and put it where you want to simulate deep water. Leave some space between the two colors (depending on the size of your pond), then move your brush from one to the other, mixing the colors so that when you are done, you have earth tone paint at the edges, dark depths and a blending in between. Some the same principle as blending the blue in your sky with the lighter blue at the horizon.
cowman Take your basic earth color and paint along the edges of your pond. Then, while that is still wet, take a dark color and put it where you want to simulate deep water. Leave some space between the two colors (depending on the size of your pond), then move your brush from one to the other, mixing the colors so that when you are done, you have earth tone paint at the edges, dark depths and a blending in between. Some the same principle as blending the blue in your sky with the lighter blue at the horizon. Good luck, Richard
Great explaination, and as you blend the "acrylics" you may need to dip the brush back and forth between water and the paint. Work it like mixing on a pallet until you gain the mixed shading desired. Water depth, type of body of water and the overall water color will determine the color of your base. many times, I don't concern myself w/ an accurate bottom color if the water feature is to be rather muddy or greenish (swampy) as i will tint the base layers and or dry brush (color) the dried layer before another pour.
If you think you messed it up or doesn't look right, wipe off as much as possible, let dry and start over.
before
after WS realistic water
River eagle, that's just about the best looking little river I've ever seen. The darned thing looks good enough to get in!
Beautiful finished product. What colors did you use? Did you use paint from a tube? Thanks
jacon12 River eagle, that's just about the best looking little river I've ever seen. The darned thing looks good enough to get in!
I'll second that. Nothing short of gorgeous, that river!
Stu
Streamlined steam, oh, what a dream!!
readingdispatcher Beautiful finished product. What colors did you use? Did you use paint from a tube? Thanks
I used an assortment of colors from a military acrylic set to paint the bottom of the pond,
various junk placed in before water poured.
lily pads painted on top of water with same army camo paints, before finally sealing it all with future floor polish.
this pond is more scummy, with WSRW tinted with olive drab paint for bottom pour, then a clear pour, lily pads have been painted, and before future top coat added
one more trick for the future floor polish
the asphalt parking lot with the whistle truck in the background is getting a tar sealcoat, part painted straight black, and glossed up with the future.
add some orange cones and a woodland scenics roofers set, and bobs your uncle, a whole new scene for your layout.