I live in florida and the layout is located in a large shed. My track continues to be dirty and causing electical problems. I run a CMX track cleaning car as well as a brass car with 2 abrasive cleaners. I have been using alcohol in the cmx and then a dry piece to remove any film. The track must be cleaned at least once a week.
1. Can I use Laquer thinner?
2. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
Harold
You can use lacquer thinner. Be careful not to get it on the ties as it doesn't get along with plastic well. You can also try the GLEAM method on your track and see if that improves things.
Here's the Gleam method.
When it comes to having clean track that stays clean, you might want to try this. It was posted by one of the members of the Model Railroader forum. It worked for me. It's called 'GLEAM'.QUOTE: (Originally posted by Semafore) I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNISH the rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polish to deep-clean the remaining contaminates.5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Lacquer thinner is active enough to dissolve styrene plastic, such as ties. To say nothing of rolling stock. Many people use it in place of plastic welder cement. I wouldn't use anything more active than alcohol, mineral spirits or Googone for track cleaning. I have never run a track cleaning car, I use a rag and rub the track down by hand.
Once a week cleaning seems a bit much. You say you are located in a shed? Not too air tight? Lots of outside air and dust sweeping thru?
Is your problem corrosion or sticky gunk buildup? Do you clean all the wheels on your rolling stock fleet when you clean the track? Do you have visible electrical arcing from your locomotive wheels? Have you read the threads about oiling your track and the threads about the gleem method of polishing same? Do you have pictures?
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I use lacquer thinner with my CMX machine and I like the results. Just make sure that the needle valve is only open a small amount. With lacquer thinner, you don't want the pad to get wet, just damp. And, use it with good ventilation.
However, you might consider more extensive measures. I would thoroughly seal the room, and run an air filter, dehumidifier or air conditioner.
Do you have brass track, by any chance? Brass track oxidizes to a compound which is non-conductive. Nickel-silver track will also oxidize somewhat, but the resulting oxide is conductive and your trains will still run on it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Lacquer thinner works fine in a CMX car, it's what is used on our club layout. Adjust the valve so it just keeps the pad moist, not so it drips out, an excess is what will get on the ties and melt them. Apply just enough to loosen any grime on the rails, and it will evaporate fast enough to not damage the ties or anything.
It's important to also clean the wheels of any locos and rolling stock - it does no good to make the track nice and clean if you then run traisn with dirty wheels to immediately dirty it up again. For locos, a piece of paper towel moistened with alcohol (use the 91% kind) or laquer thinner laid across the rails will work - hold the loco, apply power, and run oen truck onto the towel. Shoft the towel and turn the loco over and runt eh other truck on. Locos with palstic wheels, use alcohol, not laquer thinner. Foam swapbs of a type that used to be sold for cleaning tape plwer heads are the best item, as cotton swabs tend to leave fibers all over. For metal wheels, a nylon or fiberglass wheel (NOT a wire wheel) in a Dremel works well. Hold the one wheel with your thumb to control the speed, and gently apply the nylon wheel to the other. Let the wheelset spin, but not at the full speed of the dremel.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
LION spritz electronic contact cleaner (Plastic safe - non residue, non- lubricating type) from local electronics dealer or electrician's establishment.
1) Spritz on rag
2) Wipe track
3) Run train
4) ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I am new to this hobby, but I did ask the guys at my local hobby shop about a track cleaning kit. they literally told me they will sell me one if I'd like one but they have been using a clean, non terry cloth rag and a product called Goo Gone. I tried it and it works great. I use what is called a flour sack towel material for a rag. The reason you don't want to use terry cloth is the thicker material can get caught on the rail joints, etc and snag.
Goo Gone leaves a residue. It picks up dirt and requires more frequent track cleaning. In the long run, it's not really a good product to use.
MisterBeasley Goo Gone leaves a residue. It picks up dirt and requires more frequent track cleaning. In the long run, it's not really a good product to use.
Then what product would you recommend that is inexpensive, can be applied and wiped with a rag? In other words, not an expensive track cleaning kit or track cleaning car?
isopropyl alcohol. It's only a buck or so for a pint container of it at the drug store or walmart.. NOT rubbing alcohol, rubbing alcohol has oil in it. ISOPROPYL alcohol.
hwolf The track must be cleaned at least once a week. Harold
The track must be cleaned at least once a week.
Harold, this statement concerns me. Cleaning once a week seems excessive. What is the material of the track you are using? Nickle Silver, Brass, steel?
Jeffery's gleam method works quite well. But if you have something in the air in the large shed then that contaminate can gum up the works. Since you have a CMX car then using Laquer thinner as others have suggested poses no problem.
I am still worried about the once a week cleaning.
Maybe the rolling stock is brining dirt back onto the rails... have you inspected all your wheels for dirt build up?
Kelly
www,finescale360.com
While many will scoff I have 4 of theses.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Walthers-Trainline-HO-1755-40-Track-Cleaning-Box-p/931-1756.htm
One day when I was at my LHS and looking at the 60' X 81' foot layout out I spotted some of the high end cleaning cars and asked him about buying one. Told me it was a waste of money! Then I saw the cheap Trainline cars sitting on a spur and asked about them? Told me he uses them to clean the track in the tunnels!
I was sold and bought 2 on the spot! Glad I did!
I now run one in every train normally (two main lines) and seldom clean engines wheels that I run a lot.
I am DCC HO and I hate to say it, a smoker. (yes I have tried to quite) So I use to have to clean the track and engine wheels everyday.
You can all so use them as pushers
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
That's more or less the classic John Allen cleaning car - believe there was just an article in one of the magazines about making one, stories liek that pop up periodically. All you need is a cheap boxcar, a piece of masonite, a couple of bolts, some nuts, and maybe a piece of metal for a weight. Pretty cheap and you can make a whole bunch and run one in every train.
Gidday Harold, while not knocking any of the other methods, I'm a big fan of the "John Allen" track cleaning car. Here are two of my home made ones.
I live in an active geothermal area were hydrogen sulphide can play havoc with electrical appliances, Doesn't do "her in doors" silver tea set much good either. A new modeller to the club was given brass track which he has just had to replace with nickel silver. Like Randy suggests I have a policy of running one in every train.
Hope you get your problem sorted,
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Harold:
Make sure the building is as dust proof as you can make it.
For good contact I attach feeder wires to the track every three to five feet of track, then connect each feeder wire to a buse line that runs under the layout. I have feeder wires every few feet for good contact.
Now, I use Transmission fluid to clean my track. I Use a Q-Tip soaked with the fluid and run a foot or so on different areas of the track then run trains over the Transmission fluid covered tracks. Some may disagree, but I can tell you from years of experience it work great and leave a film on the track which really improves contact. I have no slippage or loss of traction. You can also use Labelle 101 oil and it works good to. As the trains run it improves contact and keeps my wheels clean for about a year.
My electrical contact for running is excellent and I am in a garage!!!
Rob Sylvester, WTRR
Another vote for the Walthers car.
Mine was purchased back when they were branded Roco.
Jim
I use one from Bachmann. Just drag it around. No cleaning agent required.