Can an older brass steamer without any paint be painted with a brush? I assume most lococs are painted with airbrush, what type of paint can be used if brush painted, I guess a flat dull coat as opposed to a gloss finish ,as real locomotives only looked bright and shiny for the first hour of operation then weather and heat and steam dulled it down.
Anyone ever brush paint a brass steam engine? if so , I need some tips.
tatans Can an older brass steamer without any paint be painted with a brush? I assume most lococs are painted with airbrush, what type of paint can be used if brush painted, I guess a flat dull coat as opposed to a gloss finish ,as real locomotives only looked bright and shiny for the first hour of operation then weather and heat and steam dulled it down. Anyone ever brush paint a brass steam engine? if so , I need some tips.
Why brush paint it? Even a simple, inexpensive Badger 250 sprayer will give a much better job. It sells for less than $40 with a can of propelent.
I prefer Scalecoat paint for painting all my rolling stock and locos. Paint it gloss first, apply decals than apply clear flat.
Sheldon
Tatans:
I generally use a 'rattle can' of Floquil Grimy Black for my base coat, so I haven't brush-painted an entire brass loco for some years. However, I use a number of brushes for 'touch-up' and detail work, everything from 1/8" to 1/2" wide. And most of my locos have silver/graphite fireboxes and smokeboxes and bright silver cylinder heads, I always brush paint those parts, generally using a 1/4" or 1/2" flat-brush.
I must admit to not using an air-brush in all the years I've been in the hobby. I have one, tried it a few times, but air-brushes and I don't seem to get along very well. Just me, understand. Most modelers I know have very little trouble with them.
Although I know a lot of modelers use Scalecoat paints, I'm still pretty much in the Floquil camp, so to speak--the paint flows on thin and opaque and dries quickly to a flat finish. I've tried brushing Scalecoat, but it seems just a little too 'thick' for my puposes. I understand it works extremely well in an airbrush, though.
Some modelers pre-paint with a primer coat (especially with raw brass), however I clean the loco first with a mixture of vinegar and water (1 tablespoon vinegar to about a pint of water), using a soft toothbrush. The vinegar tends to slightly 'etch' the brass for better paint adhesion. Then I just go ahead and apply the paint without a primer coat. Again, this is a technique that has worked out well in my case--other modelers who respond will probably have other ideas.
I hope I've helped at least a little bit. Here's a before and after photo of one of my locos using the rattle-can/ brush method. I think it turned out okay.
Hopefully you'll get some other responses to this thread with other ideas and techniques.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
The reason I'm staying away from airbrush or spray cans I don't feel like masking the entire engine,can't spray the rods,wheels, axles, windows, etc. etc. and any other moving parts, may try floquill as it seems to work well because it it thinner, plan to clean loco with alcohol then vinegar mix, any more good ideas out there, thanks. also plan to weather it so it doesn't need a Lamborghini paint finish either.
tatans The reason I'm staying away from airbrush or spray cans I don't feel like masking the entire engine,can't spray the rods,wheels, axles, windows, etc. etc. and any other moving parts, may try floquill as it seems to work well because it it thinner, plan to clean loco with alcohol then vinegar mix, any more good ideas out there, thanks. also plan to weather it so it doesn't need a Lamborghini paint finish either.
There are two schools of thought in painting steal locos - regardless of construction material.
One is take it apart.
The other is paint it running - that is block the wheels off the table, hook up some jumpers, run the loco at 3/4 throttle and spray away.
In real life, steam loco running gear was generally the same color as tthe loco, and if your going to waether it, the same method works for the waethering.
In any case you will have touch ups to do with a brush, but masking is generally not done by most people.
Unless your locomotive has a fancy paint scheme, like Espee's "Daylight" GS class, there should be no need for any masking. I use four or five different versions of black on a "black" locomotive and two or three different clear finishes, from high gloss to dead flat, all without masking, and all without having to clean the airbrush when switching between colours or finishes. I also brush paint some parts of the running gear beforehand and any details after the airbrushing is completed. The wheels, rods, and valve gear all get airbrushed.
If you still wish to brush paint, make sure to thoroughly clean the locomotive beforehand, just as you would for airbrushing. I disassemble them as necessary, and everything except the motor is washed with hot water and dish detergent, then rinsed thoroughly and allowed to air-dry. Don't immerse the drivers for more than a minute or so, as many use paper-like insulation between the wheel and tire. Use a slower-drying paint - many current paints dry too quickly, with the result that the paint dries before it will level itself. If subsequent coats are required, allow the previous one sufficient time to fully cure - at least 24 hours, and longer in most cases. And don't skimp on brush quality - well cared for, they'll last for years.
This loco was brush-painted using both Floquil and the old Polly S (not PollyScale) water-based paints.
These, were done with an airbrush, using only a hand-held piece of cardstock to shield adjacent areas from unwanted overspray:
This locomotive was re-built from this:
...to this:
...masking only for the red cab roof and the numbers and striping on the cab's sides.
I don't see why you can't spray the rods and wheels - properly cleaned of all lubricants (necessary for brushing or airbrushing) you'll get a stronger finish. I do pre-paint some areas of the wheel backs and rods/valve gear using a brush, but only those which would be difficult to reach with the airbrush. The axles aren't generally exposed when airbrushing and windows should be installed after all painting has been completed.
Wayne
I lucked out, a fellow said he would use an airbrush and paint my loco gratis, all I had to do was dismantle it, another poster told me how to take it apart, 2 large screws and 2 microscopic screws and it comes right off, WITHOUT all the running gear and wheels WHEW ! ! glad this forum exists.
another satisfied customer.
Would like to thank twhite for advice on dismantling my loco on another post, that was to lubricate it, those instructions were perfect for dismantling for painting. again many thanks.
Post some photos of it when you get it back from the paint shop, okay? As I said in my earlier post, airbrushes and I don't get along, but I love seeing a well-airbrushed brass loco.
This is good news. Brush painting a brass steamer would be sad.
Richard
Train Modeler This is good news. Brush painting a brass steamer would be sad. Richard
Don't tell doctorwayne about brush painting, by the photos above he did a great job,
Floquil, scalecoat, polyscale- - - only one paint can be imported to Canada or rather the U.S. cannot ship paint to foreign countries, I will find out which can be had in Canada, I'm making the loco Pere Marquette, I just got my decals.