changing hornhook to kadees

[jas818587]

i have several cars{ athearn roundhouse } and engines{ Athearn 1500 switcher} with out screws to hold assemblies together . Is there a standard size screw to use?

[jrbernier]

  A 2-56 machine screw is the correct size.  Drill out with a #50 drill bit, then use a 2-56 tap set to cut the threads.  You will need to do this with your Athearn engines.  With plastic cars you can do the same or use a self tapping #2 screw if the metal weight is not in the way.

  All of my freight cars(Athean/Accurail/MDC/Walthers/etc...) have the couplers attached with screws.  This makes changing out a coupler very easy, and I never have a draw bar 'pull out' because an Athearn metal clip failed.

Jim

[MonkeyBucket]

I go here for a bit of a browse...

Kadee conversion charts

Have fun...

["JaBear"]

Gidday, Athearn BB freight cars have part number 90602 Cover Plates and my Athearn BB GP7s and F-7 have plastic snap on cover plates.

Roundhouse freight car kits call for #2 x 1/8 self tapping screws.

However I bought, and I think that mine was sold by Kadee, a 2-56 tap and drill set. and use 2-56 screws if there are missing screws, pulled out threads or making modifications.

Cheers,the Bear.

[Texas Zepher]

The Athearn switcher has a special coupler clip.  It is Part #90606, as shown in the scanned explosion diagram from HO Seeker below. 

If you do go with the drilling and tapping scenario be aware that the coupler mounting bracket is not that strong and can be broken off quite easily.  I've snapped three or four in my day.   Also note that there is not a lot of room from the back of the coupler mounting bracket to the truck so a "shallow back" #38 will work better than a #5.

[G Paine]

In case the threads are stripped or otherewise messed up, I posted a how-to last year about doing a complete installation including the Kadee box

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/194274.aspx

["JaBear"]

G Paine

In case the threads are stripped or otherewise messed up, I posted a how-to last year about doing a complete installation including the Kadee box

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/194274.aspx

Gidday George, in my short time on the forum I've seen several threads raising the question of converting truck mounted couplers to body mounted.

I had started to document my current conversion of a Roco, built for AHM I suspect, 50" outside braced gondola, but now having seen your excellent tutorial will not attempt to reinvent the wheel.

Cheers,the Bear.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

With those snap-on plastic clips I put a bit of hot glue across the top. That keeps it from popping off quite nicely yet is easy enough to remove if I have to.