I got a Grandt Line Box Cab switcher kit a couple days ago, along with a few other parts, and it's coming along nicely so far.
And why am I crazy? Well,
I mean really, who else would stick a Swiss coreless motor in there that fills the entire cab, use a belt drive with pulleys made from scrap plastic and freight car wheels, and finish it off with NWSL Flea gearboxes and axles? I will say though, this is one of the smoothest and quietest runners I've ever built! And with the large coreless armature and sheer mass of the big motor, it can easily coast through switches, and it has enough traction to pull half a dozen freight cars!
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L O V E T H A T ! ! ! !
I'm sorry, but where are you going to put the Tsunami and the speaker?
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
Pretty cool. Anything that can turn one of these things into a useful loco is OK by me.
I can probably survive without a Tsunami, but sure would be nice to get a decoder in there
Inquiring minds want to know about the part # on the motor and source. I assume the rest is just look it up in the NWSL catalog, other than what you fabbed, which is obvious and clean enough to follow in your pics.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Darth! 'Nobody else' is the answer to your question! Once again a really neat project.
I have one of these critters. It is built as stock and runs OK on DC without added weights but the drive system is pretty whiny - lots of gear noise. Before I scrap the original drive I am going to add some weight (there is lots of space) and a DCC decoder to see what improvements I can make. I am going to use electrofrog turnouts so getting through the switches shouldn't be a problem, theoretically anyhow.
As far as your modeling skills go, I have only one complaint - I can't keep up!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
A DZ125 might fit and I believe TCS has a couple tiny decoders.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
A DZ125 would definately fit if you are using the original motor. However, with Darth Santa Fe's replacement motor it doesn't look like there would be a lot of spare space. Never the less, there is always the option of permanently connecting a freight car of some sort to carry the decoder just like many steam decoder installations.
That presents the opportunity for sound! Does anyone know of a sound decoder that would produce reasonably accurate sounds for a small engine like this? (Sorry - I am asking the question off the cuff as it were - I haven't done any research yet).
Just so you know, I am not happy here! I now have to figure out a way to justify spending more money on the hobby to my wife! Darn you Darth Santa Fe!! Good thing I edged the gardens today!
How about fitting one of those small N scale decoders under the chassis?
Jim - Preserving the history of the NKP Cloverleaf first subdivision.
richg1998 A DZ125 might fit and I believe TCS has a couple tiny decoders. Rich
It might fit between the motor and the cab wall.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Darth
I love it! I have one of those little critters myself and while it runs ok (with a litlle bit of extra weight,built as stock) it has that small motor whine that is very annoying. I have a slightly larger (than the stock) motor that I think will work just fine in place of the original. I think that I will do as you are showing here to see if that will improve its performance. If not my scrapyard can always use a static loco in its yard LOL.
hon30critter Rich A DZ125 would definately fit if you are using the original motor. However, with Darth Santa Fe's replacement motor it doesn't look like there would be a lot of spare space. Never the less, there is always the option of permanently connecting a freight car of some sort to carry the decoder just like many steam decoder installations. That presents the opportunity for sound! Does anyone know of a sound decoder that would produce reasonably accurate sounds for a small engine like this? (Sorry - I am asking the question off the cuff as it were - I haven't done any research yet). Just so you know, I am not happy here! I now have to figure out a way to justify spending more money on the hobby to my wife! Darn you Darth Santa Fe!! Good thing I edged the gardens today! Dave
The Tsunami Micro and LokSound Micro are about the smallest I believe. I have both. Speakers, that will be another issue. This would have to be in a boxcar or gondola or hopper with a load on top. You would need all wheel pickup also. Some do that now.
Thanks everyone!
simon1966, there might be room in one of the corners of the cab to squeeze in a tiny sound decoder, maybe with the big capacitor on the other side, and a small speaker under the frame. That's just an idea though.
mlehman, the motor came from my usual source for quality motors, which is Micro Loco Motion (current auction). The belt is Athearn, the large pulley is Intermountain 28" semi-scale wheels (size reduced to fit area), and the rest is NWSL.
hon30critter, I have one of the GE 25-Tons with the stock drive, and it's actually a pretty decent runner with some added weight and fine-tuning. I did have to replace one of the wheels, since the stock wheels aren't exactly quality parts. Just keep going, and I'm sure you'll keep up fine!
widetrack, the stock motor does have a good whine, doesn't it? I saw one person do a kitbash with a Grandt Line drive as the base, and he successfully (and easily, from the look of it) used a Mashima 12x20 motor. I've used the 12x20 before, and it's a quieter and smoother motor than the stock Mabuchi.
If anyone's interested in trying this, just remember that you won't get a working front coupler with that pulley there. If a smaller motor were used (20mm long at the most), the pulley could be moved to the middle.
I want to at least get directional lighting in there, and I'll update once I make more progress!
I bought a pair of them, one was powered the other one was a dummy and had additional pickups and the constant lighting unit (this was back in the DC days). I was able to pack the powered unit with extra weight and with 8 wheel pickup, they never stalled and could pull about 8-10 cars.
So if you got another one you could add the extra pickups, decoder and speaker to it. If you can turn the cab around on yours, you could use a draw bar to couple them together and have regular couplers on the ends. They looked realy cool switching my warf, I wish I still had them.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
CT Elektronik has the smallest motor decoder. It would probably fit in the top or bottom corner of the motor.
FOr sound, it would be most like a 44 tonner, with 1 prime mover. Or built a second as a dummy, put the speaker in a lead enclosure, for both sound quality and weight, and hook it up so you have 8 wheel pickup.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker built a second as a dummy, put the speaker in a lead enclosure, for both sound quality and weight, and hook it up so you have 8 wheel pickup. --Randy
Isn't that what Malcom Furlow did on one of his layout articles many years ago (Jerome & Southwestern???)? One powered boxcab followed by drawbar connected dummy with extra weight and pickups.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
I believe that's where I got the idea back then.
That's where I got the idea too.
Darth Santa Fe ...you won't get a working front coupler with that pulley there.
...you won't get a working front coupler with that pulley there.
Darth,
There's working and there's working. I put a Kadee on the front of an 0-6-0T (the Tenshodo with a Kemtron snowplow pilot) by just epoxying a stub of the coupler shank into the coupler box. It wouldn't move side-to-side, but it worked anyway--short wheelbase. And you sure have that.
Rather than glueing, though, you might drill a hole through the coupler shank and screw it on with an 0-80 or something. Glue's so permanent. Except when it's not.
Ed
After diggin around in my parts dumpster, was unable to find the motor I wanted to use so did some more digging around in some old boxes of electronics stuff that I was about to throw out and discovered two old tape recorders and various other small devices that have small electric motors in them! They did not feel anything It was quick and painless. And I now have several good quality motors for various projects on my (someday) layout. one of which will fit very nicely in the little boxcab. Thanks to sony. LOL
You may have to add a little space to get speakers and decoders in there. This might work!! LOL.
Really nice job though. I am working with an old Athearn Hustler with similar problems but much more space than you have.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
That side window could fit a little something extra I suppose. Or I could make it a double-decker!
If you need any ideas for the Athearn Hustler, I did one of those a while back:http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/173909.aspx
All detailed and ready for painting!
I used Kadee #711 couplers, since the kit was designed around them. The rear coupler works, but the front one is just there for appearance (the pulley is almost flush behind the pilot). On perfectly clean track with the wheels clean, this thing crawls more smoothly than anything else I've ever had!
Now all I need is some good weather so I can give it a nice coat of paint! At this point, my only area for painting is the garage, and it's been very humid around here lately. More updates to come as I get it finished!
I could make one of those into one of these: http://sbiii.com/jfcageir/ageir40.html
for my cement plant.
I plan on painting my 44 tonner a similar color, on the assumption that was sort of a corporate standard.
That is a work of art!
Please let me pick your brain again. When you paint it, how much disassembly needs to be done? Also, I don't see any traces of glue on the grab irons. Are they still removable for separate painting?
Thanks
I'll be disassembling it almost completely, but since there's very little of the main frame showing, I'll leave the motor and those parts in and just brush paint it. The shell, pilots, and sideframes will all be airbrushed.
The grab irons are glued in, but I only used a little bit of super glue for each one to make sure it wouldn't show. I'll touch them up however I may want after the shell's painted.
That thing is really cool. Is that actually a drive belt, or a rubber band? I've never seen a belt that color. I keep a collection of old tape and disk drive belts around for such projects, but finding one the right length can be problem. They can be spliced with CA, but that usually doesn't hold up.
That's some very professional wire bending, too.
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
hon30critter Darth That is a work of art! Please let me pick your brain again. When you paint it, how much disassembly needs to be done? Also, I don't see any traces of glue on the grab irons. Are they still removable for separate painting? Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
Drill the grab iron holes all the way through and glue from the inside, when dry, trim the wire flush with the inside wall, (I use the small Xuron flush cutters). If painting grabs a different color from the body, just slip the corner of a piece of paper (I use the small Post-It Notes) under the grab and paint with a brush
modelmaker51Drill the grab iron holes all the way through and glue from the inside, when dry, trim the wire flush with the inside wall
For a tight fit, I sometimes file the nub of wire left by the cutter flat to get super flush fit
G Paine modelmaker51: Drill the grab iron holes all the way through and glue from the inside, when dry, trim the wire flush with the inside wall For a tight fit, I sometimes file the nub of wire left by the cutter flat to get super flush fit
modelmaker51: Drill the grab iron holes all the way through and glue from the inside, when dry, trim the wire flush with the inside wall
I use an old #11 X-Acto blade - simply score the wire at the point where it projects through the interior surface, then use the tip of the blade to flex it back and forth a couple of times. It usually breaks-off flush.
Wayne
I really need to finish this and my Wiseman Critter! There haven't been many perfect days for painting, and the ones that are usually happen when I've been working and just want to kick back and relax for the evening. It looks like another hot and humid summer (and an even hotter garage, which is where I paint), but I'll finish these projects eventually.