That looks cool! The guy can fly a lot better than I can
Dean
30 years 1:1 Canadian Pacific.....now switching in HO
That's a recording camera, if you look closely. It eliminates the RF transmission problem which makes the video from most of these look poor, but you don't get to see the output in real-time. Instead, you have to stop the train, remove the memory card from the camera and put it into your computer to see what you've got.
Of course, retrieving the memory card from a train on your layout is a lot easier than getting it down from the top of a tree.....
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Looks good, thanks for the link.
Wayne
Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.
If it's got a memory card, that's good enough for me. I've got an on-board camera I got from Micromark, and it works just fine as long as you've got a TV monitor to watch while you're using it. Otherwise, in order to record from the camera, I have to use a DVD burner attached to the monitor and then try and download the DVD onto the computer.
I'd much rather use a memory card, and the price looks just right.
I think I'll bite on this one, LOL!
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Right. LION prefers the card kind, and is not interested in the TV kind. Him has no TV anyway. Him wants pics to post here, he can see his trains from the tower. Him was looking at one from B+H with a somewhat similar price, perhaps a bit smaller in size. LION would probably build a special car to push it around the layout rather than to build it into a locomotive of subway car.
QUESTION: Focus. On a helicopter infinity focus is good, on a model train less so. And it will not look ahead on the line when the line goes around a corner. Oh well... It will do.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
That's pretty cool. I was searching for these cameras last week. I found one on ebay that can attach to helmets for motorcycles, etc. But it was like $80 and from China.
I like this one, I wonder how good the video is.
I like that it has night vision for going through dark tunnels.
Like Tom, I prefer to just record it and then transfer to my PC.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
BroadwayLion QUESTION: Focus. On a helicopter infinity focus is good, on a model train less so. And it will not look ahead on the line when the line goes around a corner. Oh well... It will do. ROAR
I think the focal length is not too far out. This vidoe http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7cp0CtZQV0&noredirect=1 keeps the front wheel in focus and it appears fairly close. I just ordered on and when I get I will post a video or two showing how good or bad it works.
I just ordered one too!
I have one mounted on my rc chopper and it works like a dream. Amazing what you can buy for less than $50 these days as long as it's "electronics".
Choo Choo
CDN Dennis
Modeling the HO scale something or other RR in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies Alberta, Canada
Wow !
Great video!
Alton Junction
Why couldn't affordable technology like this exist when I was still racing?!?!?!?
Hornblower
type this in for a search, "keychain mini spy camera"
looks like a normal car remote. ive been using one of these for awhile on the trains and r/c planes and cars. these things are all over flea bay. mine cost 5.00 for the camera, 9.00 for shipping, and 15.00 for the mini sd card. some places iv seen this same exact ones for 99.00. takes 740x460 video and i think 800x600 pics.
later
g
FB page of my layout *new*
https://www.facebook.com/ghglines
.
thread to my layout
http://www.warcrc.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10505
pics
http://s237.photobucket.com/user/rockcrawling/library/#/user/rockcrawling/library/ho%20scale%20trains?sort=3&page=1&_suid=1388183416990004180295067414064
BroadwayLion LION would probably build a special car to push it around the layout rather than to build it into a locomotive of subway car.
LION would probably build a special car to push it around the layout rather than to build it into a locomotive of subway car.
A subway car is an ideal place to mount a camera, though.
This one is from SJT Enterprises. It's one of the RF ones that transmits the signal so you can watch it on a TV or record it. The power supply is squeezed into the other end of the car. This supply is designed to take DCC power to run the camera, so I never need to change batteries. The camera just fits in the front of the car.
Since these are run in dark tunnels, I drilled holes in the front and added bright LEDs. Only the holes are there in this picture.
This camera has an adjustable focal length. I set it for about a foot in front of the train, which seems to work best.
Just spent my monthly "Train Cash" on this Camera! Cant wait to Play! By the way, every reply Ive read from Lion has either taught me something or saved me time and money. Thank You! Mark.
http://mwcohio.blogspot.com
You young whipper snappers always have to have the latest and greatest. Always trying to pry more moths I mean money out of my wallet. I tell ya if it's not trying to convince me that there is something different than DC or "L girder" construction, then it's saying I need to run out and by another Video Camera. Well no thanks I'll stick to the old tried and true , thank you very much!
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Holy Low Clearance, Batman! Watch out for that tunnel!
Remember: In South Carolina, North is southeast of Due West... HIOAg /Bill
I got my onboard camera from MicroMark back in 2004. The camera's mounted on a retired flatcar. The receiver is mounted on a wall above the layout with the video cable going through the hole in the floor to the VCR upstairs in the living room. I could also take the receiver and plug a video cable into the DVD burner I have that I usually use to record to DVD off my VCR, DVD, or DVR. So far, I haven't made any videos with the camera, but it's been fun seeing things from an HO perspective.
Two modifications that I've done since these pictures were taken was to mount the camera a little higher on the flatcar. I've also bent the antenna so that it will clear my highway overpass, which was knocked over when the camera first went under it.
Another thing I'd like to do is find out some way of mounting it in an old dummy locomotive or something to give the look of looking out from the cab.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
GGOOLERtype this in for a search, "keychain mini spy camera" looks like a normal car remote. ive been using one of these for awhile on the trains and r/c planes and cars. these things are all over flea bay. mine cost 5.00 for the camera, 9.00 for shipping, and 15.00 for the mini sd card. some places iv seen this same exact ones for 99.00. takes 740x460 video and i think 800x600 pics. later g
A hem...
THAT thing will not fit through my subway tunnels. There *IS* a reason why subway cars are 12'1" tall and not 12'2" tall!
I have even had to remove some track spikes from an upper level because they were in the way of train on a lower level.
I bought one of the $7.95 (including shipping!) keychain cameras and another $9.00 for the micro SD card (be sure to get at least a class6-8 SD) and taped it to the roof of my BLI Hudson. I was very impressed with the quality video and sound. Only problem (?) is you have to press the record button and then let the train go; then stop the train and press the stop button; no remote here. The view is amazing and I got to see areas of my layout that you can only see from a distance or from above. Going through tunnels, under and over bridges is just great. Give on a try, it isn't much of an investment and it also makes a good keychain.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Well, just ordered the Dice with the mini-memory card. Just to show you how computer-challenged I am, I had to check my computer to make sure it had a miniSD port, LOL! The company must be here in California, because I was charged state sales tax. So maybe I'll have it by next weekend and I can have videos of the layout that I can actually download!
I think I'll actually mount it mid-train instead of 'cab-ride'. That way I'll feel like I'm bumming a ride, LOL!
Looks like a really nifty little camera. Reports (and video) as soon as I get it.
I bought one of the 'spy-cams' from fleabay a couple of years ago & when I downloaded the video I noticed a 'time-stamp' at the bottom of the screen. I went through all of the included literature & found out how to change the setting but not how to remove it entirely. I then contacted the company in China & found, to my frustration, that the time-stamp is 'hard-wired' into the video camera & cannot be removed. When mounting it on a rear car to film a train behind, if I want to see the cowcatcher or the rails, I have to install the camera upside down to avoid this problem, or at least put it in a place that's not in the way.
Luckily I have use of an Adobe Pro video program so I can stretch the size of the video so that the time stamp disappears from the screen - but it would be a deal-breaker if one didn't have this ability.
I also see that they have a remote wireless system for sale on your link for under $30 - there goes next month's discretionary hobby spending...
I think we're about to see a lot of layout videos!
Jarrell
twhite Well, just ordered the Dice with the mini-memory card. Just to show you how computer-challenged I am, I had to check my computer to make sure it had a miniSD port, LOL! The company must be here in California, because I was charged state sales tax. So maybe I'll have it by next weekend and I can have videos of the layout that I can actually download! I think I'll actually mount it mid-train instead of 'cab-ride'. That way I'll feel like I'm bumming a ride, LOL! Looks like a really nifty little camera. Reports (and video) as soon as I get it. Tom
Tom, and if anybody else is wondering about how to connect it to your computer. You can get a miniSD USB card reader to connect it to your computer's USB port.
Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Gear+Head-Computer+-+CR6800+5-in-1+USB+2.0+Flash+Card+Reader/3933338.p;jsessionid=711F122586CBE96D5C3F547993EF0B99.bbolsp-app01-21?id=1218443167354&skuId=3933338
Why does everyone who mounts these things mount them in the center of the locomotive for a cab ride version? All the engineers I ever saw sit off to one side or the other and not dead center. So if you have a long nose loco, will the side of the nose show? Cool stuff though.
Robert H. Shilling II
BroadwayLion A hem... THAT thing will not fit through my subway tunnels. There *IS* a reason why subway cars are 12'1" tall and not 12'2" tall! I have even had to remove some track spikes from an upper level because they were in the way of train on a lower level. ROAR
what happened to you talking in third person???? Maybe this isn't really Lion. Just an impostor.
Anyways I wanted to find out what a cab veiw of my layout looked like last summer. I sat my camera on a flat and pushed it around with my GP15. it did great. Untill the over hanging camera hit some trees and almost hit the cement floor.
"Mess with the best, die like the rest" -U.S. Marine Corp
MINRail (Minessota Rail Transportaion Corp.) - "If they got rid of the weeds what would hold the rails down?"
And yes I am 17.
gabeusmc BroadwayLion: A hem... THAT thing will not fit through my subway tunnels. There *IS* a reason why subway cars are 12'1" tall and not 12'2" tall! I have even had to remove some track spikes from an upper level because they were in the way of train on a lower level. ROAR what happened to you talking in third person???? Maybe this isn't really Lion. Just an impostor.
BroadwayLion: A hem... THAT thing will not fit through my subway tunnels. There *IS* a reason why subway cars are 12'1" tall and not 12'2" tall! I have even had to remove some track spikes from an upper level because they were in the way of train on a lower level. ROAR
Him sometimes talk in first lion to deceive his prey and lull it into false sense of complacency.
But him prefer third lion and gabeusmc be wise not to rouse sleeping predator.
Otherwise, gabeusmc might be laying prone on track with LION's video cam strapped to his belly.
P&Slocal Why does everyone who mounts these things mount them in the center of the locomotive for a cab ride version? All the engineers I ever saw sit off to one side or the other and not dead center. So if you have a long nose loco, will the side of the nose show? Cool stuff though.
A great many videos I've seen of 'cab-rides' actually have the camera mounted on a flat car and pushed ahead of the locomotive. Positioning the camera on the left of the car might throw it out of balance, even though the newer mini-cams only weight several ounces.
I generally mount my min-camera on a flat car about 4 or 5 cars into the train when I've videoed my layout. it gives a pretty neat effect, even though my camera won't download into a computer. I'm hoping that the new Dice will cure THAT little matter, though.
Well, for the LION and the NYCT, we have (had) what is called a "Rail Fan Window" (RFW) which was in the storm door at the front of the car, and the motorman sat in a little telephone booth sized compartment to the right.
Now the Train/Operator's compartment (note new official title) is the entire front of the car. There is a door with a window between the passenger compartment and the T/O's compartment, and you *can* look through this and through the storm dooe, but it is not the same for the window in the compartment door is a special glass that will not let you see the T/O, nor does the light from the compartment fall on the T/O's vision glass. Makes for weird pictures, Especially the track side signals.
That said, I have seen a crewman (on a locomotive) set his camera on the dashboard in the middle of the cab, and let it run while he was taking pictures.
We have a railfan on the SubChat site who likes to ride the last car on AMTK trains getting pix of the wayside.
But in HO, I think I'll put my cam in the middle, the train will be more stable.
MisterBeasley BroadwayLion: LION would probably build a special car to push it around the layout rather than to build it into a locomotive of subway car. A subway car is an ideal place to mount a camera, though. This one is from SJT Enterprises. It's one of the RF ones that transmits the signal so you can watch it on a TV or record it. The power supply is squeezed into the other end of the car. This supply is designed to take DCC power to run the camera, so I never need to change batteries. The camera just fits in the front of the car. Since these are run in dark tunnels, I drilled holes in the front and added bright LEDs. Only the holes are there in this picture. This camera has an adjustable focal length. I set it for about a foot in front of the train, which seems to work best.
BroadwayLion: LION would probably build a special car to push it around the layout rather than to build it into a locomotive of subway car.
I bought one that uses RF, but the receiver will only interface with a VCR. Does yours interface via USB with your PC. It seems whenever I find the latter, the companies are always sold out.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Medina1128 I bought one that uses RF, but the receiver will only interface with a VCR. Does yours interface via USB with your PC. It seems whenever I find the latter, the companies are always sold out.
The receiver for my RF unit has an RCA-plug output, so it will go to an analog TV or recorder. It's a good 7 or 8 years old now, which was before the time when everything suddenly went USB. I've also got a PCI-card interface for my computer which takes analog TV signals. It was made by a company called Hauppaugh - WinTV. That's how I got my videos on to my computer for editing.
Unfortunately, the computer where I did that work died last summer. I replaced it, but found that new machines no longer come with PCI slots, so I can't use this card anymore. We still have one more older machine in the house, or I might be able to resurrect that one.
I just did some quick browsing, and there's a gadget called and EasyCap DC60 that claims to be able to convert 3-cable audio-video (like VHS or older camcorder) to USB. Some discount place had them for $7. That just might be the way to go.
P&SlocalWhy does everyone who mounts these things mount them in the center of the locomotive for a cab ride version?
If you look at the camera units, they are basically a cube, about 1 inch on a side. The camera lens is mounted in the center of one face of the cube. In HO, that pretty much says that you have to mount it in the center, because offsetting it to the engineer's-eye-view position would put the edge of the camera too far outboard, and it might not clear obstructions.
If you're going to put the camera inside a locomotive shell (or subway car, in my case) then the camera has to be centered. It's pretty much a perfect fit.
MisterBeasley Unfortunately, the computer where I did that work died last summer. I replaced it, but found that new machines no longer come with PCI slots, so I can't use this card anymore. We still have one more older machine in the house, or I might be able to resurrect that one.
Actually you can still get computers with PCI slots, they just maybe cost a little more. You have to watch what you are buying. LION does not buy them without. Never know what you might want to put in there.
You probably can get an PCI box that connects via USB but I have never looked into that. An old box is your best bet at the moment.
Can anyone tell me what format the video is recorded in and if it might be compatible with a Mac running OSX?
John F.Perham, MNRailfan Photography | Modeling HO Scale Trains & O Gauge Trains
Okay, UPS just delivered my Dice. Right now I'm reading the instructions with a magniifying glass, LOL, and as soon as I have the little thingy all figured out, into the garage to try some video with it. It looks intriguing--1" square and pretty simple to use. I'll mount it on a flatcar and see what I come up with.
Hopefully, I'll have a video later on today.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Oops, little detail:
CHARGE THE BATTERY, STUPID!!!!
Okay, maybe later, LOL!
I got mine today as well. Here is a small test video. Does a good job other than the IR/ night camera part makes the trees look a strange shade in lower light.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyyMKT95X2U
Dang! It looks like we all got them delivered today! I got my too.
I'm charging the battery up right now. Luckily I already had a SD to mini-SD adapter (from my new cell phone).
I'll shoot a video, stay tuned...
twhite Right now I'm reading the instructions with a magniifying glass, LOL,
Right now I'm reading the instructions with a magniifying glass, LOL,
My wife's wristwatch came with an instruction manual like that. I scanned it and then blew it up and printed it bigger so that I could read it.
MisterBeasley twhite: Right now I'm reading the instructions with a magniifying glass, LOL, My wife's wristwatch came with an instruction manual like that. I scanned it and then blew it up and printed it bigger so that I could read it.
twhite: Right now I'm reading the instructions with a magniifying glass, LOL,
You blew up your wife's wrist watch?
OK I shot the video last night.
I don't know why, but there were 24 different files on the card. And I had to find an AVI combine software, to create a single big file.
Did you guys have this too?
And it may be my lighting, but the video quality wasn't that great.
Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCTDQ2g1PV4
Motley OK I shot the video last night. I don't know why, but there were 24 different files on the card. And I had to find an AVI combine software, to create a single big file. Did you guys have this too? And it may be my lighting, but the video quality wasn't that great. Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCTDQ2g1PV4
I think it looked good. I did not get the 24 files for about the same size file as you. Did you press the SD/MD button. I think that it might have some internal memory that may not down load as quickly or the speed of your mico SD card might have something to do it with. I ordered the card along with the camera at the same time. OR the other option is card is fragmented if it was used in your cell phone prior. I found this online https://www.sdcard.org/developers/overview/speed_class/
The memory of a card is divided into minimum memory units. The device writes data onto memory units where no data is already stored. As available memory becomes divided into smaller units through normal use, this leads to an increase in non-linear, or fragmented storage. The amount of fragmentation can reduce write speeds, so faster SD memory card speed standards help compensate for fragmentation.
richhotrain You blew up your wife's wrist watch?
At least she wasn't wearing it at the time.
Nice work. As good as your layout is, that camers sure shows you where you want to make improvements when you can.
What about those bright LEDs between the tracks? Are they infrared emitters? The camera will make them visible. Indeed, if you want to know if your TV remote is working, just look at it through your camera.
Eric97123 Motley: OK I shot the video last night. I don't know why, but there were 24 different files on the card. And I had to find an AVI combine software, to create a single big file. Did you guys have this too? And it may be my lighting, but the video quality wasn't that great. Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCTDQ2g1PV4 I think it looked good. I did not get the 24 files for about the same size file as you. Did you press the SD/MD button. I think that it might have some internal memory that may not down load as quickly or the speed of your mico SD card might have something to do it with. I ordered the card along with the camera at the same time. OR the other option is card is fragmented if it was used in your cell phone prior. I found this online https://www.sdcard.org/developers/overview/speed_class/ The memory of a card is divided into minimum memory units. The device writes data onto memory units where no data is already stored. As available memory becomes divided into smaller units through normal use, this leads to an increase in non-linear, or fragmented storage. The amount of fragmentation can reduce write speeds, so faster SD memory card speed standards help compensate for fragmentation.
Motley: OK I shot the video last night. I don't know why, but there were 24 different files on the card. And I had to find an AVI combine software, to create a single big file. Did you guys have this too? And it may be my lighting, but the video quality wasn't that great. Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCTDQ2g1PV4
What format is the video captured in? I'd really like to know if this would be compatible with my computer. Thanks!
If you are using windows it worked without any reformatting. I think the format is WMA or WMV but I will have to check when I get home. I used the windows movie editor to edit out the turning on and setting the camera up on the flat car.
Great videos guys, I enjoyed them very much.
I had a thought and may be way off base. What if the camera could be mounted (somehow) directly on top of a truck, maybe a six wheeler instead of a long flatcar. Would this cut down on the degree that the camera looks off to the side on curves? Since do to space constraints our layouts are mostly curves, doing this might keep the camera looking down the centre of the track better than sitting it on a flatcar would.
The format is AVI. But if you have a Mac, you can always convert the video into other formats.
Eric, I pushed the SD/MD button. Was I not supposed to? I thought that turned on audio?
I got the card that was offered as a combo purchase. I don't know how fast it is, or the class.
I might try and get a class 10 min-SD card and see if that helps.
It messes up the overall video, because you can tell the different segments and gets choppy.
BATMAN Great videos guys, I enjoyed them very much. I had a thought and may be way off base. What if the camera could be mounted (somehow) directly on top of a truck, maybe a six wheeler instead of a long flatcar. Would this cut down on the degree that the camera looks off to the side on curves? Since do to space constraints our layouts are mostly curves, doing this might keep the camera looking down the centre of the track better than sitting it on a flatcar would. Brent
That's a great idea Brent. I'll try that out. I didn't like how it veers off when turning, myself.
Just wanted you guys to know that I'm a very interested bystander that is thoroughly enjoying this thread. I'm learning a lot and hopefully one of these days I'll have one of those cool little cameras---thanks for your work and for sharing your results with the rest of us.
Motley The format is AVI. But if you have a Mac, you can always convert the video into other formats. Eric, I pushed the SD/MD button. Was I not supposed to? I thought that turned on audio? I got the card that was offered as a combo purchase. I don't know how fast it is, or the class. I might try and get a class 10 min-SD card and see if that helps. It messes up the overall video, because you can tell the different segments and gets choppy.
I dont have the manual handy but it does have a motion detection setting. I wonder if it is in that mode and is recording that way. Are the files all about the same length? 15-20 seconds?
Eric97123 Motley: The format is AVI. But if you have a Mac, you can always convert the video into other formats. Eric, I pushed the SD/MD button. Was I not supposed to? I thought that turned on audio? I got the card that was offered as a combo purchase. I don't know how fast it is, or the class. I might try and get a class 10 min-SD card and see if that helps. It messes up the overall video, because you can tell the different segments and gets choppy. I dont have the manual handy but it does have a motion detection setting. I wonder if it is in that mode and is recording that way. Are the files all about the same length? 15-20 seconds?
Motley: The format is AVI. But if you have a Mac, you can always convert the video into other formats. Eric, I pushed the SD/MD button. Was I not supposed to? I thought that turned on audio? I got the card that was offered as a combo purchase. I don't know how fast it is, or the class. I might try and get a class 10 min-SD card and see if that helps. It messes up the overall video, because you can tell the different segments and gets choppy.
Ya maybe that was it? Yes the files were about 5-7 seconds and all about the same file size 16mb.
So I was correct in pressing the SD/MC button when recording to get the sound right?
I will have to consult the man. when I get home in about 3 hours. I will post what i find out.
UPDATED- Found manual online. And I think #5 will fix your problem Motley
Mini Camera Features:
Operation:
1) Power on:
Press the "ON/OFF" button to turn on the device. The red LED should be solid, indicating the device is in standby mode. Insert a Micro SD or TF card before turning on the device. The blue LED and the red LED should flash repeatly if there is no memory card installed. When the memory card is full, the red LED and blue LED should flash alternatively..
2) Photo mode operation:
In standby mode, press the “PHOTO/REC” button one second to take a photo. The red LED should flash once, indicating one photo is taken.
3) Video mode operation:
In standby mode, press the “PHOTO/REC” button for two seconds to start video recording. The red LED should flash repeatly while recording. Press the “PHOTO/REC” button to stop the recording. The red LED should be solid, indicating one video file is saved.
4) Audio recording operation:
In standby mode, press the “SD/MD” button one second to enter sound recording mode. The blue LED should be solid and the red LED should be off. Press the “SD/MD” button once again to exit the sound recording mode. The red LED should be solid.
5) Motion detection operation:
In standby mode, press the “SD/MD” button for two seconds to enter the motion detection recording
mode. The blue LED and the red LED should be solid. If an object is moving in front of the device, the
device should start recording. The red LED should be solid and the blue LED should flash repeatly while
recording. When the object stops moving, the device should stop recording accordingly. The red LED and
blue LED should stay solid. Press the “SD/MD” button once to return to the motion detection recording
standby mode. Press the “PHOTO/REC” button once to return the device to standby mode. The device
will save the current video file automatically. The machine will save a motion detection video file every
ten seconds.
6) Night vision:
In video recording mode, the infrared LEDs should turn on automatically according to the brightness of the recording environment.
7) Power off
In standby mode, press the power button for 3 seconds, the red LED should flash three times slowly and then the device should turn off automatically. The current recording file should be saved.
8) Low power
If the battery power is low, the red LED should flashes three times slowly and then the device should turn off automatically. The current recording file should be saved automatically.
9) Charging the battery:
Connect the device to a PC with the USB cable. While charging, the red LED should be solid. The red LED should be off when the charging process is completed.
10) Time set:
Follow the following steps to set the date and time stamp on the video file.
A: Create a new txt file named TIME.TXT with Notepad or Microsoft Word. Save this file in the root directory of the TF card.
B: Open the TIME.TXT from the TF / Micro SD card root folder, write the date and time according to format below, and save the TIME.TXT
Format (one line)
2007.04.22 11:20:30 Y/N
The online manual published above solves all issues. Thanks loads for this!!!
When my camera arrives, (east coast - 5 days travel time).
I'll probably kill the LEDS or replace them with non-IR types. They are driven by the video level. If it drops too low, they switch on. Thus, in well lit scenes they are off, but let the train enter a shaded area and they can flash on and off as the video level tells the light to come on and then go off.
No time stamp unless you jump through some hoops.......That's good.
Easy diagnostic lights to tell you what mode you are in, but all the button pressing and double secret handshakes involving how long you hold the various buttons down is typical of packing 406,201 functions in 4 buttons. Gotta' have the "he-man woman haters" club member's book and users guide to be part of the group that can command and understand this little cube-cam.
Richard
If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed
Thanks Eric!!! Yep I must have activated the motion detection. 1 seconds, 2 seconds good lord....
LOL at Richards post.
I'll try it again tonight when I get home. And report back my results.
Motley Thanks Eric!!! Yep I must have activated the motion detection. 1 seconds, 2 seconds good lord.... LOL at Richards post. I'll try it again tonight when I get home. And report back my results.
If you did not do it when you down loaded the vidoes last night, I would plug it in and erase the vidoes so you dont end up with the frag issue.
Well, I must be the world's most coupter-stupid person, but so far the Dice has caused me nothing but frustration. After I did the video, I tried to download the card through Image Transfer (which is what I use for photographs and other videos I've taken) and the program wouldn't accept the card. FINALLY got it downloaded into the computer by going into another file. Downloaded the video, watched it--terrible focus, BTW--and now I can't retrieve it to upload it on either Photobucket or YouTube. YouTube will accept it, but gives me an approximation of 406 minutes to complete the download. The video is less than FIVE MINUTES LONG, for cryin' out loud!
Anyway--focus is terrible, color resolution is very weird (I do NOT have purple trees!), and I'm really disappointed with the whole thing. It might be good for model helicopters, but for model trains, I'm going to look for a small actual video camera and mount it on a flatcar.
Anyone want a Dice, CHEAP??
Tom,
I think it's the lighting causing these issues. If you see in my video, where it begins, I have better lighting in there, and the colors seem OK. And when it goes into the main room, you start seeing the purple. Because my lighting isn't that great in there.
I was gonna try another video during the day when sunlight shines into the room.
Since your layout is in the garage, your lighting probably isn't that great either. Could you hook up some temporary lighting in your garage? Could you open your garage during the day and let sun shine in?
You should be plugging in the memory card to your computer. Then just open up windows file explorer, go to my computer, and then the memory card. Just copy the video file to your hard drive somewhere, My Documents or My Pictures, etc.
Then find out what the file size is, right click on the file and then select properties. If it's a very large like 500mb file, then that's why youtube is coming up with upload time.
Try deleting the file off of the memory card, and shoot another video. And again, just copy the file from the memory card to your computer. Don't use any other programs for this.
One last thing, turn off your loco lights, it screws with the infrared in the tunnels.
Michael:
Actually, the big hang-up for me is the focus aspect. Anything that comes close to the camera becomes blurred--the little camera I have from MicroMark which is not much larger, has much better focus and depth (its only drawback is that I have to record it directly to DVD instead of being able to download it directly into the computer). And since I prefer to run the camera mid-train and not pushed ahead of the locomotive, the field of depth just doesn't make it. I'm going to return it and look for a slightly larger video camera with more focus control.
I can see it working well in a helicopter with an 'infinite' field of depth, but for close-up work in 1/87 scale, it's not what I'm looking for. I took the initial video with the garage door open and plenty of light, but it still did very weird things with the color, and again there was a focus problem.
Oh well, LOL!
MisterBeasley richhotrain: You blew up your wife's wrist watch? At least she wasn't wearing it at the time.
richhotrain: You blew up your wife's wrist watch?
Is that good or bad?
I think the real issue is depth of field within focus range. This camera is a pinhole type which is famous for needing a lot of light, but having a decent closeup focus coupled with a nearly infinite depth of field.
With a simple "real lens" equipped small camera, you can often focus at ranges a close as 1/2" or better, but your depth of field and focus at infinity is terrible. Thus, the pinhole camera predominates where long focus ranges to create good depth of field is needed. You can always pump in more light.
Using mirrors to force your nearest object's focus out about another 5 inches might do the trick here.
Okay, went out and bought a new MicroSD-8 card for the Dice. Inserted it and took a video. Came out okay--with the lighting I have in my garage, I suppose I can live with purple trees, LOL!
Downloaded it directly into the computer and sent it to My Documents. Ended up in My Documents with over 831,000KB. Now there's no way I can load that many KB into Youtube without waiting about 3 hours for it to download. The video is about 10 minutes long, because that's how long it takes me to run a train completely around the layout (who needs a Fast Clock, LOL?).
Does anyone know how to 'shrink' the KB once it's in the computer? I'm at my wits end with this one. Any help for this Computer Challenged guy will be appreciated.
PS: The video is kind of neat. I had no idea I had so many CLIFFS! But I'll be an even OLDER Old Man before it gets loaded onto Youtube at this rate.
It takes a long time for me to upload to You-Tube as well. Go watch a movie or do like me and start it at bed time. It will be ready for all of us to enjoy with our Saturday morning cuppa.
Format Factory is a free program that can convert extremely large video files in AVI down to small files in WMF. You can also specify the quality of the WMF file, from best, down to merely 'good', to produce a file small enough to email!
http://format-factory.en.softonic.com/
BATMAN Tom It takes a long time for me to upload to You-Tube as well. Go watch a movie or do like me and start it at bed time. It will be ready for all of us to enjoy with our Saturday morning cuppa. Brent
Brent:
Excellent idea. You'd think I was downloading the 8-hour Russian movie version of "War and Peace", LOL!
I think a long, involved phone call to my computer-genius son in Vancouver is in order, tomorrow, though.
Well, further nightmares. It didn't load. Got up to 51% on YouTube and just quit. So obviously I have to find out how to either download video with less KB or reduce it once it's downloaded. Sheesh!
I thought this would be like my Sony 7.2 camera--put the memory card in Image Transfer, download it into My Documents Image Transfer and bring it up anytime I wanted. And yes, I've done videos through the camera--granted they're shorter, about 2-3 minutes long, but had no problem uploading them to YouTube. Unfortunately, Image Transfer will NOT accept the memory card out of this little camera, and downloading the video directly into the computer seems to explode the KB all over the place.
Back to the drawing board, (sigh). Really, guys, this little Dice mini-cam has turned out to be a Major Pain in the posterior, LOL!
twhite my computer-genius son
my computer-genius son
I have one of those too, also a daughter. My son is in grade seven and has taken computer tech since Kindergarten. They have an amazing tech lab and get all new updated computers every two years. No wonder I look like an idiot to them.
Anyway back to your problem. I think You-Tube will only allow videos a maximum ten minutes in length so could that be the problem? After all that's a mighty impressive empire your about to show off. As a paying customer with coffee in hand I am happy to watch the show in two parts especially if it is higher quality.
A lot of those instructional videos come in several parts. They are all no more than ten minutes in length. Just a thought or two from one technology challenged person to another.
I never thought of that. You're right, it does take ten minutes--at least--to get a train around the entire layout, and maybe if I try chopping it up into two or three parts, it might load. I did find a program that reduced the K quite a bit, and got it loaded and finalized onto You Tube, but then it promptly faded into the ether. It gave me a URL, but then THAT didn't work trying to bring it up--
Whew!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rEyMumoq9Q
Oops, found it again. Let's see--nope. Not found. "The Video you requested is not available." This is stranger and stranger.
I put one on order, but in the meantime I'm making a platform for it from an old passenger truck. It will almost resemble an old tyco truck with a coupler, a flat base & a longer wheelbase. I added some 33" metal wheels & the axle spacing will let me add lots of lead too. I will use it as a push truck, as any flat car will be able to be used mid train. I won't get the camera until late next weekend, so I may update later on. Yes, I feel the pain of Video still being about roughly 80Mb to a 100Mb a minute for good quality.Thanks guys, this is an interesting thread to follow.
Well, after fiddling around with reducing the file, I think I finally got one loaded on Youtube. Unfortunately, the focus is lousy, as is the color. Anyway, here it is, I think.
http://youtu.be/N1CI3X5Ec9U
I had to reduce it to about phone size to get it to load. Not that it was that good to begin with. I think I'll get me a real video camera that I can mount on a flatcar. Something with good resolution.
Tom that is one incredible layout! That is great!
Yes, I can see everything you stated before about the performance of the camera.Taking that away & knowing the limitations of the camera, that is a great video, thanks for the layout tour!
Although I I have looked at small Helmet cams & other compact ones, I want something HD, so I was looking at a small JVC.For now, I think I will just goof around with the Dice (when I get it) & besides I only have a 2' x 6' switch ladder right now. ha hah...
Chad:
I think the camera will work a lot better if it's mounted ahead of the locomotive, so the pin-hole can focus better. That was my mistake, mounting it about 4 cars back. Check out Motley's video on this same thread--his clarity is much better. He's got a REALLY neat layout, too.
I think tomorrow I'll mount the camera ahead of the locomotive and see if the focus and color definition are a little better. I think if I mount a couple more overhead lights (spots) and film it with the garage door open around noon when the sun is directly overhead, I might get a better video out of it.
But hoo boy, reducing the size of the video so that YouTube will accept it was a MAJOR headache! Luckily, I only have to go through that nightmare, once.
And thanks for the compliment on the MR. I didn't realize until I timed the video that it takes a train almost 10 minutes to make a complete journey in and out--and I stopped the video before the scenery ran out, too, LOL!
Hi Chad,
I enjoyed your video and layout tour. One thing that will help a lot with these and most cameras is extra light. The brighter your train room the better the pictures will be. I notice this with my videos taken on other peoples layouts and at shows. Even a couple of spotlights bounced off a white ceiling will make the picture less grainy and the colours closer to true colours.
cheers
Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)
Hi Alan,I apologize, that is Tom's excellent layout. I am building a platform truck to push when my camera arrives. & to everyone who posted a video, I really enjoy them, what is neat is we will never really see any of the same thing, as everyone will have built their layouts differently.I am still excited that we have the technology to be able to do this, although it may not be perfect, it is pretty darn neat to see.
Thanks for the correction Chad,
great layout Tom!
I've enjoyed all the layouts too.
Okay, just uploaded a second video done with the Dice:
http://youtu.be/01qdTTbFQCs
This one was done with better lighting, but the focus quality is still not that great. I think part of the problem is that it downloads into the computer at such an enormous load of KB that I have to use an AVI program to reduce it in order for Youtube to accept it for loading, otherwise, it would take about 6-8- hours.
I thought my trackwork was bullet-proof, but wouldn't you know it, I had a derailment between tunnel 3 and 4 on the video. Luckily I kept the cursing low so you can't hear it, LOL!
I was telling Chad in a PM that there is a guy on Youtube that lives in Ft. Collins, CO that has one of the most awesome mountain model railroads I've ever seen--at least since John Allen, LOL! If you're interested to see what he did with an on-board camera, I don't haver the URL, but get onto Youtube and type in SOUTHERN PACIFIC IN THE CASCADES PART 5--CAB FORWARD. The quality of the video (and the layout) is simply stunning!
I'm afraid I don't understand why there is a belief that one should be able to upload what comes out of the camera without re-formatting. Unless you specify otherwise, most video programs, including the one in your minicam, will produce the largest file that it can, to ensure a high quality end result. It doesn't say anywhere that you are expected or have to use this huge file.
This can be easily done by using a built-in program like Windows Movie maker or an external program like the other one I mentioned, Format Factory & setting the output to a small size. I have done this many times, as I could never upload what originally comes out of my Adobe programs - imagine a nine-second video, that is 845 MB in size, larger than most commercial DVDs.
Here's an early attempt using the rectangular spycam with the 'permanent' timestamp.
This shoot illustrates another tip (as in, I should've..); film while running your train s-l-o-w-l-y...you can always speed it up later. That way, you'll retain visual clarity while on curves.
?action=view¤t=SilentTrain.mp4
Bigpianoguy:
Thanks for that information. Believe me, I'm brand new to this video thing and I didn't know that cameras loaded the information in the largest format possible. I tried Format Factory and got totally lost with the Tech-Speak, so went to AVI, which is much more understandable for a bare-bones novice like myself, LOL!
But I will say that even viewing the initial download from the Dice on my computer before re-formatting, the focus quality wasn't that great, especially since distances on model railroads are finite. I think it was really designed for RC helcopters and planes, where distances are much more infinite. And for that, it's a really good camera. But I think it has definite drawbacks on a model railroad.
My video came out sharper but I did like what was noted above, I used Windows Movie Maker and it kept the quality. But i did not make as large of a video so the long Youtube time uploading was not an issue, it still took awhile, which I think an issue at Youtube's end. As for the purple trees, I suspect it is either two things, 1) the color correction is either set for natural or fluorescent lighting as that part of my layout looks fine and the part that has incandescent has the purple trees or 2), the camera does the adjustment on the first light it sees and goes from there, which I started under the flourescent section.. Tonight I will start under the incandescents to test that theory.
Your video is really nice, but those 4 IR LEDS are ON! place black electrical tape over them! The burple/lavender color should disappear and things get a bit darker. Give it a shot. I now have my Camera and hope to shoot something on my 1/10th completed layout soon. I also want to see if I can find a trace in the guts of the camera to cut common power to all the IR leds in the thing to avoid the black tape.
Everyone needs to realize this is a high resolution camera recording in high definition 720P 1280X720 resolution and recording in this mode gobbles up memory and creates giant files per unit time recorded.
Richard:
Thank you for the hint. I didn't know that those LED's came on automatically, nothing in the very sketchy instructions for the camera mentioned that.
Now I've got a question, if I can state it clearly, I mean, LOL! Do you know of a download program that will reduce the memory file but still retain a decent resolution? I've used AVI for the two videos, and it reduced the memory file, but the resolution hasn't turned out very clear.
I've downloaded a few videos to DVD in the past, but this is my first time attempting to download into a computer, and I've got to say that I'm totally at sea with the process.
Tom, I loved the trip around your layout. When I saw you had posted it I had to put on another pot in anticipation of the trip. I also watched the Cascade one you mentioned and enjoyed it. I found that a very interesting way to film that trip looking back at the Loco.
I suggested earlier in the thread that maybe a camera platform mounted directly to a truck might offer an alternative to using a flatcar as it would keep the camera in a better position to look down the track. Well in the video Tom mentioned, if you look off to the left at about the 25 second mark it looks like our host has built just the thing I was talking about. He must be a smart guy. Anyway here is the link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LakFC_EJxS0
Keepem comin guys.They're great!
Thanks for the tip Richard. I'm going to try using the tape on the IR sensors on mine.
All with these camera's.....I spent about 3 hours monkeying around with my camera last night and have some data to pass on.
The black electrical tape works great, but I still got some leakage! (The tape will work OK but here is the ultimate solution) I am an electronics engineer and electronic hobbyist so I have little fear.
I took out the four screws with a fine phillips and, with some difficulty, opened the case. (the difficulty comes in their tripod thread mount lip and the molding of the case half around it.) Just force the shell halves apart with a screw driver blade by twisting it. All came apart OK with no breakage. The camera will really fall into two halves held together by a flat ribbon cable to the camra chip.
Locate the board with the camera, and the LEDS. There is a small black, rectangular surface mount transistor that is obvious near the edge of the back of this board. This is the 4 LED driver transistor. Surface mount transitors have three leads. Two of them are on one side and the collector lead is on the other. The collector lead is the one single visible lead showing in the middle of this small rectangle. It is tiny, but with a very sharp, pointed pair of diagonal cutters or rail nippers, it can be simply cut. Once cut, using a tiny blade screw driver, just pry it up slightly away from the board and the remnant board connection you just cut. A dab of model airplane glue between then will insulate in a manner that even if they do touch in future, no contact is made.
Now, carefully refit and seal up the case and put the screws back. You have now permanently disabled the IR LEDS. Give your camera a quick recording test in a darker area against a white piece of paper and you should only see a dim white field on playback and not a lavender field.
Another discovery!! This camera can't be used in tungsten lighting! This is especially true with the naked filament, reflector type track lighting or you will have gross color shifting! (green trees are white or gray). Tungsten puts out intense IR! I had installed a simple 4 track lighting halogen type reflector over the small finished part of my layout for photography. This was horrid on video playback!!!! Fortunately, the entire attic room is lit only by fluorescent lighting.
Turning off the tungsten track lamps and going with only fluorescent lighting was perfect! All colors were perfect. So kill all tungsten lighting and kill the LEDS either with the "stop-gap" electrical tap or total electrical disabling and you will have a nice camera system.
Now to the focus issue. I found I didn't care about close focus and using three HOn3 cars behind the K-27 engine, on playback, the engine and all forward of it was in clear focus. I placed two high side gondolas after the engine and then a flat car. I mounted the camera with tape, (temporary), as far back on the flat car that I could and ran the train. I was very happy with the result. By offsetting the camera slightly I got some great turn shots of my K-27 valve gear and sides of the gondolas. COOL!
Unfortunately I can't supply the niffty movie files, but I did take a photo picture of my computer screen on playback showing the colors being right. Note* the images are much better that shown here in reality, as a picture taken of a computer screen is a definite downgrade.
narrow gauge nuclear Another discovery!! This camera can't be used in tungsten lighting! This is especially true with the naked filament, reflector type track lighting or you will have gross color shifting! (green trees are white or gray). Tungsten puts out intense IR! I had installed a simple 4 track lighting halogen type reflector over the small finished part of my layout for photography. This was horrid on video playback!!!! Fortunately, the entire attic room is lit only by fluorescent lighting. Turning off the tungsten track lamps and going with only fluorescent lighting was perfect! All colors were perfect. So kill all tungsten lighting and kill the LEDS either with the "stop-gap" electrical tap or total electrical disabling and you will have a nice camera system.
Thanks Richard for confirming the lighting issue. I did not get to play around with the camera last to test that same theory.
Well, well, seems I have to turn off my floods, LOL! Luckily, I've got flourescent lighting in the garage, so I'll experiment today. I'm going to temporarily disable the LED's with electrical tape and see if that makes a difference (thank you, Richard for the instructions on permanently disabling them, BTW! ).
And guess what I found in one of my rolling-stock drawers--a Walthers articulated depressed center flatcar! Forgot I even had the darned thing (hey, I'm over 70, I'm allowed, LOL!). And that little Dice will mount very comfortably on one of the articulated ends of the car, so the next video I take today will utilize it. It's kinda/sorta the same thing that BillR used on his Southern Pacific video in case anyone watched it. (Brent kindly downloaded the link)
I'm getting a lot of great information from you guys on how to use this little camera. And as a novice at this whole thing, I thank you all very much.
Now to head out to the garage for some more movie-making.
I forgot to include a small fact which might not make a lot of difference to many here. The big battery hog inside that little camera is the energy consumed by the four LEDs. If you electrically disable them, then the battery charge life goes up. This is important in that most layouts are not illuminated to a level over the entire run. This keeps the LEDs on for most of the run. For some here that are handy with small tools and electronics, this fact might make it worthwhile to disable the LEDs.
Good luck to all with these little cameras.
narrow gauge nuclear I forgot to include a small fact which might not make a lot of difference to many here. The big battery hog inside that little camera is the energy consumed by the four LEDs. Richard
I forgot to include a small fact which might not make a lot of difference to many here. The big battery hog inside that little camera is the energy consumed by the four LEDs.
Good to know that, Richard. So far I've been able to get about 15 minutes out of the Dice before I have to re-charge it.
I was able to mount the camera on the end of a Walthers articulated depressed-center flatcar, and it seemed to improve the POV of the camera. Here's how I mounted it.
I also taped over the LED's and took a video, and it seemed to improve the quality of the lighting a little bit. At least I don't have THAT many purple trees, anymore. I AVI'd it at a little higher resolution, which took more time to upload onto Youtube, but I think it turned out a little better.
http://youtu.be/6Ogd2Q0uTzI
I still seem to have some focus problems, but I'm beginning to think it's the process of reducing the KB for downloading and not so much the camera. The original download is well-focused, but the KB is astonishing. I'm going to have to experiment with a download program that reduces the KB but still maintains the original quality.
Hey, like I said, I'm a "Newbie" at this. Just have to experiment.
'I still seem to have some focus problems, but I'm beginning to think it's the process of reducing the KB for downloading and not so much the camera. The original download is well-focused, but the KB is astonishing. I'm going to have to experiment with a download program that reduces the KB but still maintains the original quality."
Tom, I am starting to wonder the same thing. When the camera is showing the out doors it still looks looks blurred. Have you just shot a video of the outside, not in the garage and see what it looks like?
I know with being a man that asking for instructions is hard! (I know because I am one my self) Have you tried to contact the manufacturer and see what software they used?
Did you go all DCC on us? Just wondering because it seems have some sound engines on the layout?
Ken
I hate Rust
Ken:
No, I'm still DC. The sound you heard from the cab-forward is just the bare sound that BLI gives on DC operation. I do have an under the layout Soundtraxx Heritage Steam system supported by 3 fairly large speakers that I use often with my other locomotives. It can be programmed for either simple or articulated chuff and has a ton of sound accessories (air pumps, brake, all the goodies that you DCC people can CV in).
As I said before, I think part of the focus problem is that this camera is designed for model airplanes, where the focus is pretty infinite, and of course on a model railroad, the focus is far more 'finite'. But a lot of that focus problem seems to appear when I reduce the KB for uploading onto Youtube. Right now I'm still experimenting with AVI to see how little reduction I can get by with for uploading and still retain good focus. I'm not sure that I can really do it with this little pinhole camera, though. I'm still going to look for a small, better quality camera that I can mount on a flatcar. So far, even the smallest Sony circular I've seen is a little too big, but when I was at BestBuy, the salesperson there said that I should try a specialized electronics store, that BestBuy was more 'mainstream'. He suggested a local electronics dealer here in Sacramento that I'm going to head over to in the next couple of days.
Tom I have that same exact depressed center flat as you! I'm going to try that with mine.
I can see your colors are a lot better, so the tape works pretty good. I'll try that as well.
How long are the videos you are recording? I would say anything longer than 5-6 minutes and you should be fine with keeping the high quality res and still being able to upload it to youtube.
After much effort, I have succeeded in sharing my first short finished video on you tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry--EFKvgbU&feature=youtu.be
Other than the amateurish nature of the effort and totally unfinished layout, you will note that 1. All colors are perfect, (disabled the IR LEDS and use only fluorescent lighting.) 2. The focus is rather good for a 20:1 compression, especially good as close as the engine. The lack of contrast was due to the need to boost the brightness in the editor as my lighting intensity is not optimized yet.
Sorry 'bout that.
This little camera is OK in my book, for the dollar spent.
Faux pas in operation... bell rings at speed and whistle sounded too much. This was more for my friends than the MRs present here. Forgive?
Great video's guys. Noticeable improvements being made. Now are my eyes playing tricks on me or do I see Bigfoot dashing in and out of those frames in those high mountain passes?
That's we Bigfoots following our trains, LOL! I'm sort of like Alfred Hitchcock, I like to make 'cameo' appearances in all of my movies, I guess. What you DIDN'T see was one of my cats in a tunnel (a little outdoor 'stray' I rescued). Didn't know she was there until she came out of the access area in the side looking really ticked off. Evidently she's 'adopted' that portion of the layout as a nap-spot.
You'll have to pull the brake equipment and wheel off of one end of that flatcar (like you didn't know that already, LOL!). But the little camera perches up there quite nicely. I used doubled electrical tape. But I really like the improved POV using it. Now I've got to work on the focus aspect. This 'on-board' camera thingy is a whole new set of tricks, isn't it? BTW, the last video I took was about 11 minutes long. I'm going to try some shorter videos today as soon as the wind dies down and I can open the garage. See if the resolution is improved at about 5-6 minutes.
That turned out pretty darned good, especially the focus. I like the fact that you off-set the camera in the gondola, it gives a much wider POV. And that's one gorgeous little locomotive you've got. The whistle didn't bother me a bit--the last time I was on a tourist line, I swear that the engineer whistled for every fence-post along the line. I grinned a lot, LOL!
I do believe I caught a few video frames of the illusive Sasquatch while filming on the Paradox Uravan and Placerville (th' PUP). I have heard reports of his being sighted between Placerville and Nucla and then most recently near Naturita. I think the continuous bell ringing and whistle sounding scares him up if he is near the tracks.
Well, you guys are a persuasive bunch. Mine arrived today and I got some time to play around with it. :)
Unfortunately, I only have Tungsten/Halogen lights, so I've also got the purple tree problem.
From what was said in an earlier post, apparently this is because Tungsten/Halogen emits IR light. However what I don't understand is, why are colors under daylight normal? The Sun also emits huge amounts of IR.
In any case, I'm searching for a cheap IR cut filter in hopes that I can build an attachment which will allow the use of my bright halogens with true color. That should work, right?
IMO, the night vision sucks. The motion detection however is freaking awesome...unless it's dark, then it's limited by the terrible night vision.
-Mark
www.MarkWatson3D.com
Umm Kayyy...Well I got mine today, & perhaps made another person interested in it. I had no Idea that my Dad had ordered some RC Heli Parts & upon Delivery he was impressed with the speed of the order, so he checked it out (was gonna show him anyway) & thought that it was a pretty cool little thing. [Although not what he ordered!] - (he was there when I flew an RC Chopper with a wireless one (like MicroMark sells) a couple years ago. (& Yes, I tipped it over, cuz I watched the TV & not the Heli)!!!Anyway, I have two questions for our new DICE experts!
Has anyone played with the Time.txt file? - Is that a static file or is the camera actually clocked? (always the same time)?
This one is for NarrowGaugeNuclear (or any other EET's) - Is there room inside to mount a SMT slide switch like the Ngineering one? ( I can pix one).http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/514-N320010 I would like to be able to manually toggle the IR LEDs, to preserve all the original functionality. I can machine a slot & a bed mortise to fit the switch into, but do not know if there is room for that in the 'sandwich' of the assembly.
On the older cameras the lens was threaded, but this one looks like it has adheasive to the nose of the case, so I think that there may not be a tunable Depth of Field on this particular unit.However, I have not opened mine up & looked inside. I want to charge it & see if it works before 'butter fingering' something on it.. ha hah..
I will post a pic of my "Truckee" camera mount truck, & it's pusher, & also lay the remaining trailing tracks on my switch ladder (ran about 4 flex tracks short of a full ladder), but back in stock now!
Thanks & Stay Tuned!
Richard,
Thanks for the how-to on disabling the LEDs! I did the surgery and now no more ugly lavender. :)
Chad, yes, i think a micro switch can very easily be installed. There is quite a gap between the board and battery for wiring. I hope to install a switch to as I would like to use the motion detection, which is pretty sweet!.
Here's my second DiceCam video, first with the IR LEDs disabled. This is my N scale "Ultimate" 4-4-0.
watch?v=TIJbPKklfuw
Mark:
Holy cow, talk about CLARITY!! If I didn't know it was the Dice, I'd swear that you used a more expensive camera to get those shots. Great video! Love the dinosaur. Is that your answer to our Sasquatch, LOL?
Seriously, what program did you use to load it into the computer and then onto YouTube? I can't get anywhere near the clarity you did, and I'm modeling twice as big (HO).
Thanks Tom,
I used Adobe Premiere Pro to edit the video. Pro is a bit expensive, but they have a Express version for under 100. Which program do you use? (My quick skim didn't see one mentioned). (Let me see if I can get the same results in Movie Maker.)
When I rendered the edit, I used Apple's H.264 codec (The same used on Blu-Ray). I set a target bit rate at 4mbps with a 6mbps cap. The original video was recorded at around 16mpbs. This resulted in a 40mb file and it took about 10 -15 minutes to upload.
Another thing that slightly helps is to get as much lighting as you can. It takes slightly more bit space to record black than white on every frame. Add that up for 1000's of frames and you got a few megabytes. Also, when the image is brighter there is less video noise caused by the sensor.
Mark, did you know there is a Dino loose on your layout
Nice Video!!!!!!!
Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
Delaware and Hudson Virtual Museum (DHVM), Railroad Adventures (RRAdventures)
My Blog
This little camera is rather packed, but with care a tiny, on off switch could be placed into the cube device to turn on and off the IR LEDs. Better still, I am considering scratch building a "camera car" and totally disassembling the camera and mounting the guts in a new and novel way to suit my needs.
This camera was designed as a security camera for sure, but found a real good home in the RC flying model world. It can be used in model railroading as well, but only with some modification.
An IR filter might be just the ticket to solve the track lighting, (incandescent), issue. I hope to hear from others if they obtain the filter and use it.
As for a time stamp... I have not and will not activate or use this function so anyone interested in this is on their own.
narrow gauge nuclear An IR filter might be just the ticket to solve the track lighting, (incandescent), issue. I hope to hear from others if they obtain the filter and use it.
I found this last night and ordered 2. http://www.m12lenses.com/IR-Cut-Filters-s/59.htm
According to others who have used the filters for IR/Color webcams, they work great. I'll share my results upon arrival. :)
Thanks for the great tips guys, I appreciate it!
Here's my 'truckee' platform I whipped up for mine. I also realized that almost all my limited sound units are 6 axle, but I have this nice sounding one in a B-B arrangement for my tight switches. Although I may not get to it this weekend :-(
Mark,
Thanks for the suggestions, & excellent video too! Disabling those IR's really helped!Mark, Hey, what are the two first box cars? JailBoxes? Those are cool!
I had run out of trackage on my switch ladder plate project last year, but I had found some track & a couple swithes I got since starting that project, & the glue is drying right now! Hopefully soon I will have a video for your viewing pleasure!
I played with the TIME.TXT file & got it working.It is dynamic & if you choose 'Y' it will put it (display it) on the video in the bottom 1/4 screen.I set it to the correct time & dropped it on the camera with an 'N' & it removed the overlay in the shots.I am glad I did that cuz I use "Sort by Date" in windows & now the files are in the right place when looking through the directorys.
Again, thanks for the help tips & great ideas, you guys are great! Thanks!!!
I like your camera car, thats really sweet. I might try that.
Looking forward to seeing your video.
Thanks!The only issues I have is that; -Mounted this way the buttons are hard to hit, even an SD loki would have a pilot grab iron in the way.-I meant to use an .060" or thicker sheet of brass for the deck, I have a thin temporary one on there.
The car has a half Oz of lead between the wheels, & being short should 'track' like it is on rails! (puns intended, hee hee!). Although I wanted the camera set back to have the lens closer to the center of the pivit point of the truck, when I put the thicker plate on, I will probably move the camera closer to the center of the car so I can hit the buttons better. With the camera mounted on it the 'truckee' it is plenty heavy & should be pretty docile on the rails, I do file my soldered joints, so it should be pretty smooth. If anything else, it could be used as a tool to look for track problems! (Just another thought).
I like that mounting, too. I'm going to try something similar--have a spare HEAVY Central Valley 6-wheel passenger truck from years ago, that still rolls like a champ. Think I'll see what I can do with it.
I wish those controls were located in a different place, myself. Like the TOP of the camera, instead of where they are. It makes it darn difficult to turn on and off, especially with my thick fingers, LOL!
TW;
Yeah, I hear that, it makes it harder to mount to the top of of an @K forend for 'action shots' against water filled milk jugs... Ooooppsie... what was I thinking & saying???
The upside down mount does work for car mirrors & the bottoms of RC things, but fuel residue also goes that way unless you fly inverted.. ha hah..
I'm hoping my glue dries on my switch ladder track & in the mean time will re-arrange a place to set it, as this was a project that did not have a location selected & was leaning up against a wall for a while.
Anyway, I'll share some videos when I have a chance to try this out.
So far in my testing, this is far from stellar in performance & focus, but for the price paid it is still quite entertaining & acceptable 'to me'.
& no I have not attached it to my Cat's collar for a Kitty Cam, but asked my sister if I could bring it for her Black Lab's collar. She said sure, but only if I expect 'Cali' to eat it, as she eats all the LED light danglies on her collar..
ChadLRyanMark, Hey, what are the two first box cars? JailBoxes? Those are cool!
Thanks Chad. Those are Ventilated Boxcars (Also called Combination Boxcars). The tan one is scratch built by hand and is specifically modeled after Virginia and Truckee #1005. "...with its open and/or closed style of doors and windows, proved superior very early to transporting not only merchandise, but perishable supplies and livestock."
The two gray Vent-Boxcars are my CG N scale 3D printed versions which will be lettered for Central Pacific. You read that right, 3D printed in N scale. Here's a few photos to show the awesome level of detail:
(Sorry this one's kinda dark)
Ok, back on topic of camera cars... Why permanently mount the camera to the car at all? With a permanent installation, you wont be able to move the DiceCam around to various locations to achieve different shots and angles. Additionally, with just a flat car (or gondola in the case of my video posted above), you can press the buttons THEN place it in position. Mine rode the N scale train without shaking or falling off. :)
Also, most editing programs (even many of the free ones) should have the ability to rotate the footage 180 degrees should you want the mounting screw in the down position with the buttons on the top half. Recording upside down wont change the image quality.
Just my 2 cents though. :)
Excellent points, & food for thought! Thanks!
Those are N SCALE!?!?!?!? Whoa, Dude, you rule!Especially the RPD PT versions, simply awesome!NICE!
Here's another video I took at the NMRA Pacific Coast Division meeting. The DiceCam is PERFECT for show layouts. Just make sure the module owner is ok with you setting the lighter than air DiceCam on their module.
watch?v=GJ4YRTE3NYk&feature=youtu.be
I'm hoping the few dropped frames are due to the extreme contrast, causing the camera to second guess the exposure. Also, my IR Cut filters should arrive tomorrow! :D (I'm so excited!.. I just can't hide it!)
Neat video. I love those V&T ventilated boxcars of yours, the detail is remarkable. I'm going to try using the camera 'off-board' like you did just for some run-by shots. BTW, I noticed that someone in your club has an N-scale Burlington steamer. At least it looks like one. Wow!
Yep, that Burlington O-4 Steamer is another one of my treasures. :) It's a Kato Mikado with a GHQ conversion kit. Huge sentimental value to me. :)
Nice Looking piece!!!
Here is a video I shot at my clubs layout. some of it is train view and some of it is run bys. I edited it with Windows Movie Maker. Hopefully soon I can direct a good video of the layout with more shots a views.
watch?v=sSoUZRku7nw
Good video Eric. :)
YAY, my two IR Cut filters arrived just now. I turned on the halogen work light held the filter over the lens hole and got PERFECT color! :D
Mark Watson Good video Eric. :) YAY, my two IR Cut filters arrived just now. I turned on the halogen work light held the filter over the lens hole and got PERFECT color! :D
What? Show us what it looks like!!! And where you got the filters?
I'll get a "results" video made later tonight.
Here's where I got the filters. http://www.m12lenses.com/IR-Cut-Filters-s/59.htm
Better hurry, only 4 left in stock! I'm most impressed with their speedy fulfillment/shipping. Ordered mine late Friday night and it arrived today!
I'd recommend ordering at least 2 per DiceCam. They're tiny cuts of glass and chances are you'd lose it when you need it most.
I attached mine by cutting a square hole in a strip of tape, centering the filter over the hole, then taping it to the DiceCam wrapping the tape half way down each side. This way I can easily remove it should I want to use IR light.
When I saw this post, I ordered a camera for myself. Here is the video after playing around with it. The camera is as is from the box, sitting on a flatcar in front of the train. Towards the end, the camera gets bumped to the side and gives a good 'passenger' view of the layout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4HghHL6hJY
http://www.haworthengineering.com/
~Excellency in the Details ~
An astounding layout - I'm definitely getting one of these...
A couple more tests indoors. Once it stops raining, I will take this outside to the G scale layout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89LiEstRR0s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5qle-8P7Uk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSW96HLtAS4
Cool layout MRH044.
Took me a few days, but I finally have a comparison of color with the IR Cut filter vs without.
watch?v=dtRMbxRBsFo
I also went railfanning a bit yesterday and took this video of Amtrak California at Martinez. Watch out at about 1:40. ;)
watch?v=CyQiUdk5Psk
Great footage Mark!
I have been watching this for a while, now I'm convinced I need one.
Thanks for the comparison vid of with and without the IR filter. I will be ordering one whenever they get back in stock... Oh, well. I don't have any trees to turn purple in the first place. Sea of green, anyone?
Acela
The timbers beneath the rails are not the only ties that bind on the railroad. --Robert S. McGonigal
By the way, for those of you with cameras...
If you don't have a short 'truckee' platform for it like Chad's, would mounting the camera at the back of a flatcar help with the tracking issue? (Yes, I know some will be opposed because you can see the front of the car and it won't be a 'cab' view. Just a short-trem suggestion until we all find our own little fix)
Just an idea, I don't have mine yet so I don't quite know the physics of it...
This one has been out for a while, but it's in the spirit of the thread.
It has music by Duke Ellington. I think it's worth power up your speakers for.
watch?v=jQ5OvZtI QU&lr=1
Acela026 By the way, for those of you with cameras... If you don't have a short 'truckee' platform for it like Chad's, would mounting the camera at the back of a flatcar help with the tracking issue? Acela
If you don't have a short 'truckee' platform for it like Chad's, would mounting the camera at the back of a flatcar help with the tracking issue?
I threw the camera on the front of a 40' flat and didn't seem to have problems.
These are really fine videos, Mark and MRH044. But I'm still wondering why nobody seems to be having focus problems except ME, LOL!
Keep the videos coming!!!!!!!
This is a little different
I built a retractable shelf for my lap top so i could use Decoder Pro to program my locos
right next to the layout
i dialed up my "Mole Cam " internet security camera that's mounted on top of the door to the train room
to the layout view
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
twhite These are really fine videos, Mark and MRH044. But I'm still wondering why nobody seems to be having focus problems except ME, LOL! Tom
Couple of thoughts.. wipe the lens area down, might have a finger smudge. And I think it came with the plastic coverings you had to peel off, did you do that?
Well, I finally have a video!!!& it sucks, just kidding, ha hah!
Here are the issues;The camera is cockeyed on the 'Truckee'I don’t recall what Peco switch I used on the main, but it is the NON-DCC compliant one & it shutdown all the loki's when I backed into it & ricocheted across the frog & points...I left the wavy Atlas (OLD STOCK) #4 turnouts as they were. Because every time I have tried bending a turnout straight, it does not turn out -well..(Pun)So I have really cool wavy track to test the tracking of the 'Truckee' !!The 'Truckee' was rebounding & Lurching due to coupler slack between itself & the Loco, mostly due to the locomotive's uneven consistent speed; a combination of not the best clean track or wheels, & no customization in DCC settings.Yes I had, & used an old Tungsten style 60 watt bulb because that is what the room had, however I was left handing an LED light bar, & trying to control the DCC (new to me) with my right hand.. (we need a video of THAT anarchy!!!)!And 90% of the staged stand-in's are not finished or weathered!!!! I was forced to point the end of the switch ladder plate towards the window, would have been much worse if the sun was out, so I guess I am glad it was foggy/rainy..Any software I tried to edit & add a title & credits to, made it suck even more, like 40-70% more ugly & loss of quality, so I am showing you the actual camera footage!
Over all, for a raw first time effort, I do not think it is that unacceptable, although it was the 8th take, because I do not have solid switch stands, & some of the tracks are just taped down (staged Locos), & I had derailments due to clingy points...The first siding with the BNSF GEVO's (2 units) are running & making noise. I was hoping they would not over power the Tsunami in the Athearn FP7 & it actually came out OK to me.The 'Truckee' performed pretty well, when I saw it lurching & bounding when I tested it I thought I had a really sad dog, but in the video, it does not look so bad, but there are a couple video jumps, that don't seem like the 'Truckee' did that. However, I do think a heavier longer car (not a bobber) would be much smoother. That is just my thought after experimenting with this.A short two truck caboose chassis would be my next logical step, it would also be easier to hit the buttons too...
Why don't you share your thoughts & tell me what you think!I would like to hear your feedback!I know it is not great, & that is why I wanted to share it in the raw form, cuz it is what it is..
A still shot of the staged setup.
The Video....
watch?v=vUfdIYka4G0&feature=youtu.be
OK: I'm just a little confused on this. The company that is selling the Dice camera, for $39.95 (sold out), also has that complete remote wireless system, for only $24.95. Personally, as I mentioned, I've used the spy-cams where you plug in the memory card, do your filming, then retrieve the memory card, download it, & finally watch it.
I'm more sold by the system that I can feed directly into my TV/video/computer. Maybe some infinity/POV issues; but it still seems like the better set-up. Or am I way off base on this?
bigpianoguy:
I started off using a mini-cam setup that I got from MicroMark, a couple of years ago. It connected to a 9 volt battery and had a reciever that could be viewed from a TV monitor. My only problem was that it did not have a card for downloading, it had to be recorded through a DVD burner. I still have it, and I will say that the focus on that camera beats the Dice all to heck.
I've given up on the Dice, the focus is lousy--at least on MY Dice--even before I try reducing it in the computer. What I got for forty bucks is just what you'd EXPECT for forty bucks, LOL! If I were into RC planes, I'd probably have a use for it, but since I"m not, about all it's good for is a 'futuristic' flatcar load.
If you've got a TV out, can't you bring it into your computer through the video inputs?
It might be too late now, but I suggest contacting the seller and getting an exchange (or return). On my dice, objects come into sharp focus about a 1-1.5 feet away. If that's not constant with yours it must be defective. :(
BPG,
Yeah, you can bring it in, but that is assuming your computer has the correct inputs. The average computer will NOT have those inputs and you would need something like the Dazzle input box (about a hundred bucks). Additionally, you will probably need special software to record the input. Computers that have the hardware to receive input generally have a cheap proprietary program that can be used. External hardware such as Dazzle also has included software.
The final reason I'd pass on the video transmitter is that the video resolution is far outdated. They don't list it as HD (which would be a huge selling point), so I can only assume it's 640x480.
It also says line of sight transmission, which might produce faulty video feed while traveling tthrough tunnels, between buildings, scenery ect on a layout.
Chad,
That's a decent video, not bad at all for your first shot. The color and focus looked good, better results than mine. I still need to shoot another video, with some natural sunshine during the day.
Your wavy trackwork cracks me up, but hey it does look like some prototypes that I've seen. LOL
But ya gotta get some switch motors or switch stands, that pole looks kinda weird.
But I love your fleet, some really nice locos, and of course nice choice on your DCC system, I have the same exact one. (NCE PHPro wireless).
Say, Thanks Michael!!!
Actually that was take 8, take 1 throu 4ish had a big giant hand thumbing a throttle roller & also manually attempting flipping the switch from the center of the track & trying to slow down the loco so I didn't short it out like I actually did.
If you watch it it looks like I did the kitty thing throwing the switch rod & yanked on my temporary "remote rod" about 3 to 4 times... That looks so stupid, until I really shorted out the camera loco & two BNSF Gevos out..
I told TomW in a private IM that I suprized myself that there were not 'special explatives' during that breif silence.
Well, at least I was not too embarrassed about it, & shared it as is & I am laughing out loud about it now... Hey I can only get better, right??
I felt like a Putz for not getting the action going sooner, but I needed a couple more DCC things to get everything going right, & hey it all worked out, despite the wait, & I really enjoy it now..
Thanks for the compliments, there was a moment of cold sweat when I realized all the weathering & decaling I need to addend to, I'm pretty booked up, but I want to keep painting those undec shells!
Thanks again!
Here's a quick run-by of Central Pacific "Jupiter" pulling my entirely scratch built freight train, including the most recent addition the "Supply Caboose".
watch?v=DBp8OiHi4lo
That's a GREAT video--that little loco sure pulls like a champ, doesn't she? I really admire that scratch-built freight train, especially in N scale (I'm getting to the point in life where sometimes my HO seems a little too 'delicate' for my fingers, LOL!). Nice job on the 'caboose'--I'm reminded of my old Silver Streak kit from the 'fifties, which sadly disappeared during a move about 30 years ago.
If that video had been in B&W, I'd have thought that I was looking at a shot from one of my favorite Hollywood railroad movies, deMille's UNION PACIFIC!
And I almost converted it to B&W! :p
Well I suppose we're not limited to the CubeCam for video in this thread.
Here's a demo I recorded with my Canon T2i DSLR. This video was actually recorded in 1080HD, but I rendered it out in 720 to save upload time.
The video stars, once again, my scratchbuilt train (with a little more detail visible), and a remotored Atlas 2-6-0 with gearhead reduction.
watch?v=nNI3 s26eVg
I finally got a chance to upload videos from the back yard layout onto youtube. I learned several things with this camera on the G scale layout. The first is that the lower the camera is to the ground, the faster the train appears to be moving. When the camera was on a single truck, it gives the appearance that the train is flying haha!! When it was up on the trains, it was much better. Also, I learned that I should but a bit of cushion between the truck and the camera. It was much more shaky footage on the truck than on the trains.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0JSR462yfY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52BdmKA9PEg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2lj7xpOFAE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1XWyIrmxOo
And here are the rest:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geQW5NNG6mg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXwxkZXZxiE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXEj3YShFb0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCN16CLyx3o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRxCHg1zIiM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIISyT2G3H0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Opn0kHr3is
A little shakiness is easily dismissed; but why do all the vids appear to be done in stop-motion filming? Is that from the camera?
I sometimes get an effect like that if I'm downloading without enough power to the camera.
bigpianoguy A little shakiness is easily dismissed; but why do all the vids appear to be done in stop-motion filming? Is that from the camera? I sometimes get an effect like that if I'm downloading without enough power to the camera.
The battery on the Dice is only good for about 15 minutes until it needs re-charging because of the LED's eating up power. Could be that the stop-motion is caused from the battery getting low. I know that when I was using my Dice, it spent more time on the re-charger than it did on the layout, LOL!
This stop motion effect can occur in real high priced cameras as well. It is due to slow memory or memory pagenation or block setups from within the memory stick or card, itself.
In this little cheap camera, it could also be the result of a slow processor or video A to D conversion. I assume that most all here bought the little memory card offered by the camera sales point, Heli.com.
It is a fact of life for this little camera. However if one goes out and finds a very fast micro simm card, the problem might go away. This is the limit of what the user can do.
I have run into this serious issue on my $400.00 video camera. By purchasing the cheaper "San Disk" manufacturer card I have a jerk or stop motion in the recorded material about every 20 seconds or so. If I buy Sony or any other card, the problem goes away.
There's actually two types of this effect.
One is "Write lag", as described by Richard above. It occurs when the medium you are "writing" to is not able to keep up with the speed at which the info is coming in. Usually this will only happen periodically, several seconds apart. The cheap microSD card shipped with the DiceCam definitely experiences this lag.
The other type, which is more stop-motion like is when there is a frame rate mismatch as a result of improper conversion. The video from the DiceCam is recorded at 30fps. Unfortunately, this is not the only standard frame rate, the other being 24fps. If video from the DiceCam is recorded at 30fps, then converted improperly to 24fps, we'll see a subtle jump in the video once every second. Likewise, a video recorded at 24fps, improperly converted to 30 will see a subtle pause once every second.
Unfortunately, the way video is converted is usually beyond the user control in most of the "off the shelf" video editing programs. A good program will let you specify an order for dropping/adding frames so that they don't all happen at once. But the best solution is to know the frame rate of your recording device, and export any edits accordingly. :)
I tested another setup on the 'Truckee' -I placed a steel block on it for a platform, & it helped! The weight is massive, & the height is perfect. I still have to tweak the angle!I also made changes to the switch ladder & some of the participants.Even got chased by a PO'd GEVO, it took the #4 turnouts very well in both directions!!!
Even though this was a test run, it was good, besides the bad lighting in the middle of the night & being all burple toned! I will shoot another in daylight!Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD2hg-oAM7c&feature=youtu.be
I did a reshoot in daylight & it is a significant improvement, also added a little more 'wedge' to the camera. So far I think it is all improving, & honestly, it is kinda fun!Here is the 'wedged' camera as seen in the following video.. Yeah the CCD had to be soldered 'not so pretty square' on the board...
Here is the new somewhat better lit video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRjsgMV8EcU&feature=youtu.be
Well, thought I'd bump this thread back a little: I'm one of those stubborn people who, though having given up on the Dice for 'on-board' filming, decided to see how it would work just as a regular video camera, a-la Mark Watson. So I tried a couple today on the layout with the garage door open and every bit of light I could turn on in the garage. It seems to work better for me just as a regular video camera, at least the focus is a little better when I convert the files to MP4 (AVI is just too way too blurry).
Anyway, here's a couple of videos of my oldest Akane Yellowstone hauling a 22-car reefer train up and over Yuba Summit. The first is just below the Sierra Buttes on the 2% ascending grade, the next is the 'other side' of the Summit on an easier 1.5% descending grade.
Sorry, no sound, my 15 year old Maxx-Traxx system is back at QSI for repairs, LOL!
Anyway, for what it's worth, here's the Dice in action again.
http://youtu.be/xGV0l3BMtqE
http://youtu.be/e9WTGj5raJA
My dice died, I am sure it had nothing to do with crashing my quadrotor on the neighbors roof and having the dice falling three stories to the ground
Tom, what a concept! Color Silent Movies! Boy, if they had color back in the days Talkies would have never caught on! Now all you need is a Pipe Organ in the back ground playing the theme song to Raiders Of The Lost Ark!
Beautiful Layout Tom!
This one's not a model video, but I hope everyone will let it slide. First two shots of CalTrain and a few shots while mounted on my new RC Helicopter (Bought specifically for use with the DiceCam).
watch?v=wUuznPyyV8Q
Also, I should be receiving my next batch of test prints from Shapeways this week, including an N scale Pickle Car, Flat Cars with Stagecoach loads, and the improved Ventilated Boxcar. You can expect more videos upon arrival. :D
hornblower Why couldn't affordable technology like this exist when I was still racing?!?!?!?
There STILL isn't much technology available for a Conestoga wagon.. <ducking>
Eric97123 I got mine today as well. Here is a small test video. Does a good job other than the IR/ night camera part makes the trees look a strange shade in lower light. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyyMKT95X2U
Can you switch the IR feature off? I haven't seen purple trees and blue bushes since college, but that's another story.
Mark Watson This one's not a model video, but I hope everyone will let it slide. First two shots of CalTrain and a few shots while mounted on my new RC Helicopter (Bought specifically for use with the DiceCam). '); // --> Also, I should be receiving my next batch of test prints from Shapeways this week, including an N scale Pickle Car, Flat Cars with Stagecoach loads, and the improved Ventilated Boxcar. You can expect more videos upon arrival. :D
What kind of Helicopter did you use? I got a Blade MQX quadrotor to fly the dice around, I was hoping to get some aerial views of trains but I crashed the dice hard, so I guess I will need to order another one and see if I can tinker with this one and try to revive it.
Medina1128 Can you switch the IR feature off? I haven't seen purple trees and blue bushes since college, but that's another story.
One post on here talks about how to take the dice apart and kill the IR lights, another got an IR filter that works super good and most of us just go with the black tape over the light.
Mark, remind me not to go flying with you...
Eric97123 What kind of Helicopter did you use? I got a Blade MQX quadrotor to fly the dice around, I was hoping to get some aerial views of trains but I crashed the dice hard, so I guess I will need to order another one and see if I can tinker with this one and try to revive it.
Use as an aerial railcam was also my intention for getting the RC Helicopter. I got the Syma S033g on sale at xheli for about 60. Overall I'm very impressed. It's very easy to fly, however the tx/rx often cuts out for just a fraction of a second, which effectively causes the Heli to lose control every time. My average flight time is about 15-20 seconds from lift off to loss of signal and crash. :(
I've done some modifications that have improved the tx/rx some what (shortened the drop out time from about one second to about a half or third second), but I'm still cautions to push the limits since my only fly spot is so heavily populated (note the busy street and apartment buildings surrounding the park).
Reviving an Older Thread
I will be trying out a new addition sometime soon.This is a JVC Everio GZ-V500, & with it's features & specs, I thought it would make a great all around camera & really neat Train Cam. It is a little tall on this Ath flat, but I hope to build a custom car for it.Now all I need is a LAYOUT!!!!! (and a fast/large SD card, -not included).
Well, although it is very, UNsensational, here are two videos I made over the weekend.
I have not car mounted the JVC V500 as we have one challenge, it is set to power off when the LED ViewFinder is in the closed position. I have written up a plea to their support & when they come back to business hours, we may know more, & hopefully move on. So I made a baseline video with the Dice, & an informational goof off video with the JVC.The JVC video was down-converted from 1920x1080 but otherwise unedited, the Dice video is raw as it came off the camera. Sorry for the idiosyncrasies of my efforts, but it was fun..
watch?v=XVsJuOVWYRs&feature=vmdshb
watch?v=4CdUqpGVSQ&feature=plcp
Thanks,
Bad or Concerning News Better News & Correction!
Initial response from the manufacturer, says the camera unit cannot be operated without the View Finder LED Panel Open, which in our case Will Not Work.
I will be working more with them, but it looks like it may not be able to take Car Rides as hoped.
________________________________
UPDATE: We there may be a way!Customer Service answered my question exactly, as in what I asked. Being new to AV, & with the included Manual not really going into Operation, reading the digital Manual & some testing has let me learn that you can flip the ViewFinder Counter Clockwise & then Close it with the LCD outward & it WILL continue to function. -Probably Video Cam 101, but new to me. Ha hah..So, we will do a test at the same timeline as the DICE video was made, so we can have an accurate comparison.
My apologizes for any confusion, but I'm getting there!
Here is the Setup for the JVC Everio V500 video test run. It's placed on a modified Mantua 40 Foot Flat, that had the original truck mounting holes plugged, drilled, tapped & threaded for 2-26, & then a set of Kadee #500 Spring Bettendorf Trucks attached. I also used the standard RP25 0.110" wheels on both camera cars, as even 0.088" lurch through the switches I've tried them on. The camera weight does not move the sprung trucks, but does load, or rather, equalize them nicely, & should be interesting as it rolls through the frogs (another experiment, as the DICE truck is rigid). Kadee Boxes with 158 Scale Whisker couplers installed, were super glued in after some strip fill stock on the original casting, one coupler had it drop trip shank 'hose' removed (test coupler, replaced later) to not interfere with the FP7's Plow area, due to it's short shank front coupler. The coupler box mounting may need to be revisited, as they sit just a little low from centerline, even after a little cleanup carving, they will also get drilled, tapped, & secured later. As you may notice, this car also had its sides Milled down for another custom project, which will involve new scratchbuilt side plates. I used it because it was handy, & sized best for the camera. Another thought is that a low side Gon with an end cut out would also make a nice 'captive' car & hold the camera better than low-tack double stick tape. So far in tests, although a little top heavy, it seems to ride the rails well, but I do see some coupler bounce at times.
Here is the video produced on the JVC. It gave the Autofocus a little challenge & I may look into that, but otherwise pertty good. The camera was set to widest angle, or least zoom, & had image stabilization turned on. Other than that it did not have an custom settings.
watch?v=g3CPcelq0A
yeah!,I saw that,too.the camera is veryfunctional,I think I will buy one if i can afford it.
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Walkera RC Helicopter
Do you realize you replied to a post almost a year old?
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
mobilman44 Do you realize you replied to a post almost a year old?
richhotrain mobilman44 Do you realize you replied to a post almost a year old?
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Also a big from me Walkera.
This was one of our more fun threads and it was nice to revisit it.