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Champs decals

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  • Member since
    September 2008
  • 216 posts
Champs decals
Posted by NILE on Saturday, January 14, 2012 1:57 PM

I am adding decals to some "data only" fright cars.  I am using champs decals and not happy with how it looks.  Micro scale decals seem to fade into the plastic so that you don't see the seam.  Is there a way you can do that with champs?  I have used micro set and sol with the decal, and once it dried I used a flat to take the shine off of the decal.  That helped some, but the seam is still obvious.

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Saturday, January 14, 2012 2:07 PM

You should be able to get good results with Champ decals if you follow the instructions included with each set.  Make sure to allow the decal to soak long enough to remove all traces of glue from the back of the decal.  Also, a stronger setting solution, such as Solvaset, seems to work better with Champ decals.


Wayne

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
  • 3,246 posts
Posted by modelmaker51 on Saturday, January 14, 2012 7:27 PM

First off, it's Champ, not Champs.

An old trick with thicker decals is to sand the edge of the decal at an angle with 400 or 600 grit sanding film or paper. That's one of the reasons that Microscale's decalsblend so well, they're thinner and have a tapered edge.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

  • Member since
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  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Posted by hon30critter on Saturday, January 14, 2012 8:09 PM

"Fright" cars eh?!? Sounds scary!Smile, Wink & GrinLaugh

Dave

Sorry - couldn't resist.

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
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  • From: Shawnee Hill Country, IL
  • 134 posts
Posted by ShawneeHawk on Saturday, January 14, 2012 8:18 PM

Nile, always remember that decaling is a process.  Start with a clean model then airbrush or rattle can spray it with some type of gloss finish.  The gloss gives the decal something to hold on to.  Then as Wayne told you, soak the decal.  I use distilled water, and for Champ decals I soak for about a minute, then use tweezers to remove the decal to a folded paper towel.  This blots out some of the excess water.  Then you can transfer it to the model.  Work carefully and slide the decal into position.  Then use setting solution.  I swear by Solvaset.  Use the corner of a tissue or paper towel to get any excess solution off.  You want to do this quickly after applying the Solvaset because once it starts to set up, any further attempt to position the decal will likely ruin it.  When the solution is dry, you can *** at any air bubbles in the decal with a # 11 blade.  Then gently apply more solvaset.  When the air bubbles are gone and the setting solution is dry, then give the model a spray with a flat finish, such as Dullcoate.  The Dullcoate also helps hide the decal film.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Shawnee Hill Country, IL
  • 134 posts
Posted by ShawneeHawk on Saturday, January 14, 2012 10:00 PM

I forgot to add, take your time, and have fun!

Gary

  • Member since
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  • 216 posts
Posted by NILE on Sunday, January 15, 2012 8:13 AM

I did not know about applying a gloss finish first.  Thanks for the tip.

  • Member since
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  • From: Kansas City Area
  • 1,161 posts
Posted by gmcrail on Sunday, January 15, 2012 12:33 PM

Also, apply the gloss finish after the decals are dry.  Then apply your choice of flat/satin finishes.  This way, the surface texture is uniform all over the model.

---

Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com

===================================

"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins

===================================

http://fhn.site90.net

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