When I get home I'm going to start building my platform, since I live in a condo it must be a sheet of plywood 4x8. I would like to do a 2 tier platform, can someone tell me what would be the maximum angle/degree I can take my HO scale train too so I know my distance between the 2 levels?
Thank you, Roger Oesch
You're bound to get several responses on this. A lot will depend on what kind of locomotives and rolling stock you'll be using. But, usually 2-4% grade is considered the maximum, especially if you're using DC. With DCC, you can increase the number of rolling stock, because you can use helper engines. One way to increase your clearance and cut down on the percentage of grade, is to have the lower track dip lower where it passes under the upper track.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Roger, will the 4 X 8 be free standing or against a wall and how many sides will be against a wall? 48 inches is a long reach if there a derailment. All so very hard to lay track and do good scenery work as well. Now if you set the layout where you can move it, won't be a issue.
On the radius of turns, 22 radius is the max. It takes 2 22 inch turns to make a U turn. So that is 44 inches and only leaves 2 inch's for a safe zone if there is a derailment.
On incline degrees. It takes 100 inch for 2% grade to go up 2 inches. 4% grade takes 100 inches to go up 4 inches. If you want the rails to pass over them self's you need 4 inches to clear a bridge depending on rolling stock and type of bridge. The 4 inches is from the top of the lower rail and the bottom of the bridge.
Hope that was of some help.
Ken
I hate Rust
Ken, my track will be against the wall on 1 side, my first power unit is a MTH DCS unit. I will be build more island units in our spare bedroom. Maybe at that time i can do a bi-level system, any suggestions you have would be help full. My spare room is a 10x12.
I'm building in the n.e. section of my room now, then i'll build a section off of the 4x8 wrap it around the wall which will be my southern run, then build another 4x8 on the west wall, which actually will be the west coast. My son works for BNSF, so i need to add his line to my system. The southern wall I would like to have my N.E. track meet the West coast track, and have the trains switch IN a rail yard, say Memphis!
Maybe I'M hoping for too much,10X12 room can get cramped fast, i should have about a 2x6 walk way to move around, maybe, lol!
P.s. is that a Challenger in your photo? My son has a 2011 SRT-8
Thanks, Roger Oesch
Roger, here is the car in the aviator.
It is a 69 Charger R/T, all so have a 68 Road Runner with a 63 426 Maxie Wedge and the 70 Cuda.
Back to trains. If I only had a 10 X 12 room to work with I would think about either N scale or around the room layout with either a Duck Under or a lift out section.
Most people can only reach 30 inches so that should be the max. You can do a lot in 30 inches as far as detail work. Lot of my layout is 42 inches wide and against the wall. Started out as a slot car track and reaching 42 inches to get one slot car was no big deal. Biggest mistake I made, track is not laid great (works well). But hard to get straight when laying on your stomach. I all so cannot detail the layout! When I do have a derailment, I have to get on the layout to get the cars or engines.
Here is a idea for you to think about and toy with for your needs.
Big advantage is you can run way bigger radius turns. Bigger turns reduces the pulling power need to pull a longer trains. With you wanting two levels that will help a lot when it comes to going up a grade. Plus you can run larger engines.
I just wanted to wish you luck in building your 4x8; I built one based on a MR project layout and still have it 20 years later. If you pick a track plan already published, many of your questions will already be worked out by others, leaving you with the 'simple' task of just building it.lol
Maybe a good idea is to build the Woodland Scenics 'Golden Valley' (is that the correct name?) layout. Don't be afraid to alter these trackplans to suit your liking.
Try to stay away from steep grades, they tend to cause problems and look unrealistic. If you don't mind these short comings, and depending on the locomotive(s) and length of train (and quality of both) you could probably get away with a 6% grade or more but, less of a grade, you can run more (and longer) trains more realistically, which may keep you in this hobby for a long time.
You have taken the best first step, participating in this forum! You will learn a lot by reading through these posts and will give you confidence when you start building. I personally tend to lean toward accurate modeling (rivet counting) but this is your layout, do whatever makes you enjoy it!
http://delray1967.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
SEMI Free-Mo@groups.io
rojoe123When I get home I'm going to start building my platform, since I live in a condo it must be a sheet of plywood 4x8. I would like to do a 2 tier platform, can someone tell me what would be the maximum angle/degree I can take my HO scale train too so I know my distance between the 2 levels?
It might be better to just make the two levels and use a manual cassette type tray to move the trains between the levels.