Much has already been stated about performance issues of magnetic couplers that are routinely provided with rolling stock since the original couplers of this type went off patent. They are especially troublesome when used in multiple unit lashups of locomotives and on many of the passenger cars of at least one major supplier. They tend to become uncoupled with very little provocation. In cases where I have wanted these lashups or passenger cars to be semi-permanently coupled, I have replaced the factory provided couplers with non-operating scale dummy couplers. Although this solution works quite well, it can get to be fairly pricey. Another option is to replace the couplers with the original patented design couplers. As a less expensive fix, can anybody make a recommendation for the best and safest way to use a readily available adhesive product to permanently inactivate the factory supplied couplers?
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It's perfectly all right to use brand names here, so Kadee is Kadee, Sergent is Sargent, and everything else is, well, let's just say it's not as good as those choices.
My first answer is "replace them all with Kadees." If you buy your Kadee couplers in bulk packs, they're much more reasonable.
The plastic "imitation Kadee" couplers typically suffer from weak or failed springs that hold the knuckles closed. If you want them to stay closed, simply glue them in the closed position. I would use a drop of CA (cyanoacrylate) cement, applied carefully with a toothpick. This will lock up the coupler forever.
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In many cases the cheap couplers supplied with locos and cars are plastic knock-offs with scale or close to scale sized coupler heads. These have the habit of riding up over each other where there's a slight dip or rise in track. The longer the car or loco the more aggravated the rise and fall of the coupler. I use mostly standard head Kadee couplers such as the #5, #148, #118, #37, #39. These couplers are larger than scale and don't slide apart so easily. Kadee standard head shelf couplers (#118) and scale head shelf couplers (#119) lock together and have to be uncoupled over a magnet or with an uncoupling tool. I prefer a small screwdriver.
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Jeffrey, do those shelf couplers cause any derailments on uneven track, like heading into or coming off a grade?
hobo9941 Jeffrey, do those shelf couplers cause any derailments on uneven track, like heading into or coming off a grade?
hobo9941 .....do those shelf couplers cause any derailments on uneven track, like heading into or coming off a grade?
.....do those shelf couplers cause any derailments on uneven track, like heading into or coming off a grade?
It's just a guess, but you might gain more satisfaction with, ultimately, less work, if you rectify the uneven or otherwise rough track. Even plastic "clone" couplers with coil springs in the knuckles don't uncouple for no apparent reason.
Wayne
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From your description of your troubles it sounds like you have either too much vertical play in your coupler boxes, your couplers are not lined up properly or both. If you have not already done so get a Kadee height gauge and make certain that ALL of your couplers conform to this height. Second Kadee sells fiber washers, red and gray that can be used inside of the coupler boxes to limit the up and down movement of the coupler shank which is probably causing most of your troubles. These washers can also be added to the truck bolsters to raise the car slightly. If a few washers will not work you can get under set or over set shank couplers described in prior posts.
Some plastic couplers supplied with quality cars are very low quality. I would get rid of any coupler that is a two piece set up like the ones that come with Atlas rolling stock.
If you maintain a good set of standards for your coupler heights you should have virtually trouble free performance. The advice listed here was learned from the same frustrations you are now encountering.
Good Luck
John R
John R.
Dump the plastic KD wanna bes and buy either the KD or Walthers all metal Proto MAX(TM) coupler.
KD coupler:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm
Walthers:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-6000
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LIONS do things differently. LION runs Proto 1000 subway cars. Him uses six car train sets since four is far too short and more than six makes the platforms too long even on 1000' of mane lion track.
The couplers on the cars make the space between the cars look just so unprototypical as to be unacceptable. Fortunately, these cars come with drawbars that can be used in place of the couplers. Unfortunately, when you use these you loose the pantographs between the cars, since they are non-functional and are damaged when you encounter prototypical curves. You win some, you loose some.
LION uses the drawbars on a six car trains. Handling a 300' long six-car unit is... er... difficult. Him built a foam tray to transport the units between the railroad and the bench. As long as him using drawbars, him decided to hard wire the entire unit... 48 wheel pickup. As long as him putting wires, him puts four conductors, now him also has dedicated lighting that stays on while train is stopped. This also is prototypical.
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