Clear coat in a spray can opinions

[cats think well of me]

Hi all,

I'm looking to put a gloss, or even semi-gloss, clear coat on to one of my models, and since it's only one, and I don't have my airbrush compressor up and running, I'd like to just use spray paint. Any recommendations for a gloss, or semi-gloss, in a spray can? I swore off Testors years ago, but wondering if Floquil or anything from the automotive paint section is of value. 

Thanks in advance

Alvie

[wp8thsub]

Have you tried the craft store spray paint section?  There are gloss and semi-gloss sprays intended for crafts that work pretty well (like Americana brand acrylic).

[MisterBeasley]

What is your objection to Testors products?  If it's philosophical, political or religious, you should know that Model Master and Floquil are both part of Testors.

I personally use Model Master gloss and semi-gloss in a small spray can from my LHS.  It's convenient, and I've never had trouble with either the cans or the results.  It is probably not cost-effective, but I don't mind supporting my LHS.  I'm also a happy user of Testors Dul-Coat.

For painting structures, I often use spray paint from rattle cans that I get at Lowes.  I've found that these low-end cans frequently clog, even though I make sure to clear the nozzle by holding the can upside-down and giving it a burst when I'm done.  When a can "goes bad," that's not cost-effective either.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I use Valspar Clear Gloss that comes in a 12 oz spray can. I get it at Lowe's.

[wjstix]

I'm doing more and more painting with Tamiya spray cans rather than my airbrush. Their nozzles produce a very fine spray and are comparable to using an airbrush IMHO - much finer spray than typical "rattle can" sprays. I used to airbrush a lot but I find acrylic paints a lot harder to work with than the old solvent based paints were (acrylics seem to like to gum up internal mix airbrushes). I've used Tamiya flat and semi-gloss sprays with really good results.

[dstarr]

Testors DullCote.  Works every time.   I tried something else once and it  crinkled the decals.   Seriously, if you want to try something else it would be worth your time to spray it on a test decal before doing the real model.  

 

[wjstix]

Assuming you're talking about cars / engines etc. you're painting yourself, you may want to factor in the kind of paint you're using. If you're using acrylic paint (Accuflex, Tamiya, etc.) you may want to use acrylic clear spray over the paint. Also if weathering make sure if you use a wash that it is completely dry before sealing it in. I recall weathering a tank car with IIRC an alcohol and india ink wash; when I sprayed dullcote on it, the model turned cloudy. I never was able to fix it.

[Darth Santa Fe]

I always use Testors/Model Master spray cans for my clear coats on everything from plastic to brass. Under proper painting conditions (70 to 80 degrees, low to medium humidity), I get a great finish every time. I've used it over both enamel and acrylic with no signs of paint being ruined. For my most recent example, you can check out the Sharknose diesel I finished a few days back (semi-gloss).

I don't know why you've sworn off Testors products (which includes Floquil, since they are owned by Testors), but I would suggest giving them a second chance. Model Master is my favorite paint next to Scalecoat.

[chutton01]

wjstix

I recall weathering a tank car with IIRC an alcohol and india ink wash; when I sprayed dullcote on it, the model turned cloudy. I never was able to fix it.

That's strange, I always thought it was the other way, and my experience seems to validate this:

Dullcote then Alcohol Wash ==> white, cloudy finish.
Alcohol Wash then Dullcote ==> No problems

Recently I put an alcohol wash on a model figure I dullcoted years before, and the darn finish turned splotchy white! (Years, maybe a decade since I dullcoted the figure - you'd figure it would have cured by now) - since the figure was one I painted before I purchased an Optivisor, I wasn't too heartbroken, stripped the paint and repainted (using an Optivisor this time - much nicer looking), weathered with alcohol+india ink, dullcoted (always dull-coat your model humans and animals...maybe semigloss for model goldfish ), and there was no problem, finish was a nice clear matte.
Actually I always do this, give my model figures a alcohol was of ink, then dullcote, and no problems.

I do recall Dullcote then Alcohol Wash ==> cloudy finish...but then Cloudy finish + Dullcote --> more or less restores the clear matte finish.