I have had some problems with atlas turnouts. Sometimes when the engine goes on the switch , it will stop for 2 seconds and then restart. Would someone tell me what the best turnouts would be and what switch machine you used?
thanks
alexjake
alexjake I have had some problems with atlas turnouts. Sometimes when the engine goes on the switch , it will stop for 2 seconds and then restart. Would someone tell me what the best turnouts would be and what switch machine you used? thanks alexjake
Atlas turnouts are fine. My layout is littered with them. I use Tortoises to power them.
You need to tell us more about your layout so we can help you. Is it DC or DCC? Which Atlas turnouts are causing you problems? All of your engines stall or just some engines? Tell us how your turnouts are wired?
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain alexjake: I have had some problems with atlas turnouts. Sometimes when the engine goes on the switch , it will stop for 2 seconds and then restart. Would someone tell me what the best turnouts would be and what switch machine you used? thanks alexjake Atlas turnouts are fine. My layout is littered with them. I use Tortoises to power them. You need to tell us more about your layout so we can help you. Is it DC or DCC? Which Atlas turnouts are causing you problems? All of your engines stall or just some engines? Tell us how your turnouts are wired? Rich
alexjake: I have had some problems with atlas turnouts. Sometimes when the engine goes on the switch , it will stop for 2 seconds and then restart. Would someone tell me what the best turnouts would be and what switch machine you used? thanks alexjake
It sounds like your layout is DCC, alexjake, and you're getting an intermittent short as your engines cross the turnout, which resets after the engine passes the shorting point. Not all Atlas turnouts are "DCC friendly". There are ways to fix this, but you'll have to read up on it yourself, since I'm not a DCC guy.
That said, Atlas turnouts vary widely in quality. Older code 100 turnouts are not at all reliable, though I've heard good things about their code 83 line. I personally prefer Peco. Relatively bulletproof, and very reliable. I don't use electric switch machines anymore - all manual - but if I did, I'd probably use Tortoise.
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
You're going to hate this answer, but you did ask.
The best turnouts are hand-laid in place. Properly built they are in gauge, meet all pertinent specifications and don't have quality control issues - because they get adjusted to a close approximation of perfection as they are being built.
As long as the switch throwing mechanism has the electrical contacts I need (for signaling, frog power and power routing) its exact type is immaterial. I have electrical switches (slide and toggle) rigged with mechanical linkages for manual control of some switches. Others are powered by RIX and KTM twin-coil solenoids. I may use tortoi in some future construction - or I may cobble up my own. They all work.
I use Atlas flex track. Other Atlas products have no place in my present or projected layout construction.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Atlas switches are ok. If you look at the back end of the frog where the rails of opposite polarity are close together a wheel on the loco may be bridging both rails causing a momentary short. This mostly happens with DCC as the circuit protection responds very fast. You can use some paint or nail polish to extend the insulation about 1/4" more.
Or you may be losing power to the switch point where it is attached at the pivot point. Soldering a single strand of wire between the point and the lead rail will help there.
Some rails are closer together so that the insulating piece in the frog is also narrow and it is possible for a wheel tread to bridge the two rails. It is very easy to determine if the problem is caused by a wheel tread bridging the two rails, cover the inside rails in the frog area with a piece of scotch tape.
If the problem goes away, try a permanent fix by filing and beveling the 2 rail heads so that the rail heads slope down toward the plastic frog insulator. It doesn't take much to fix the problem.
You may also paint the inside rails with clear lacquer, or even leaving the piece of scotch tape on the rails is a fairly durable solution.
GoleyC