The mother in law wants to buy me an Airbrush for Christmas this year. It wasn't on my toy list, but who am I to argue. I have been trying to decide on one by researching online, but before I make my final decision, I would like input from the forum. After all it's MRR I will be using it for so who better to ask.
I know there is lots about this subject if I do a search, but my research shows there may be some new stuff out there and so I would like updated opinions. I do have a 25 gallon compressor in the garage. If I can use that it would be great. I do like higher end/higher quality things I buy, so price isn't a big consideration.
There was one thing I read about working slowly and how some Airbrushes are better than others for that. Believe me when it comes to anything involving artistic talent. Slow is my middle name.
So fire away. Thanks.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
A "single-action" airbrush's trigger only controls the amount of air, you manually adjust something to control the paint. With a "double-action", the trigger controls the amount of air and the amount of paint (push down for one and pull back for the other usually). "Internal mix" means the paint and air mix inside the brush, "external mix" means the mix takes place outside the nozzle - the air blows over a nozzle and creates suction pulling up paint.
Generally single-action / external mix airbrushes are the cheapest, but are limited in how fine a spray they can produce, and how much control you have over the spray. You can get one of these for $25-35. The higher end double-action / internal mix give you much more control at your fingertip, but will run $100-300. There are also single-action / internal mix and single-action external mix airbrushes too that wouldn't be bad to start with, generally in the $75-125 range.
The only trouble you may have is if you're painting acrylic paint, you'll find it dries very quickly and can gum up an internal mix airbrush. After being frustrated by not being able to use my high-end airbrushes, I found a cheap external mix airbrush works fine for most uses and doesn't gum up.
Try entering "airbrush" into the "Search our Communtiy" box to the right. There are many threads on the subject.
For a lot of years I used a Binks single action internal mix gun and acheived very satisfying results, then about 20 years ago I got my first Pasche double-action internal mix gun and have been using it ever since. The results are almost amazing compared to my old gun which I now use for scenery and it works well for that.
My suggestion would be the Pasche gun if you want really outstanding results, make sure you have a good regulator going to the gun and some sort of moisture trap, it doesn't have to be an expensive one, just something to catch any moisture. For years I used an automotive in line fuel filter for a moisture trap and it worked quite well then as some of this equipment became cheaper I bought a regular moisture trap, set it about 1 foot out from your compressor.
Once you use one you'll never be without one.............
Mark
Thanks Stix. Thank was a very helpful and informative response. Maybe I should start more low end until I get a grasp of what Airbrushes are all about.
Yes, start with crap and get crap results wich leads to you losing all interest in pursuing Airbrushing for all eternity!
Get a GOOD Airbrush that at least is designed on this side of the millenium!
I would recommend either a Iwata of a later models or at a minimum a Badger Patriot. A double action model is good to have as it makes it more easy to control (in my opinion).
But stay away from all "No name brands" that is almost impossible to get spares for.
I have had so many Airbrush workshops where I advocate that a god setup is half the result; the general feedback I get is that they feel more confident with using the "real" stuff.
But what do I know.....
Swedish Custom painter and model maker. My Website:
My Railroad
My Youtube:
Graff´s channel
Brent...
Glaze no more.
Do youself a favor - since someone else is buying this for you as a gift, get yourself a Double action Internal mix Gun. You will evetually want to upgrade to the D/A style for more control in model building anyway so get it over with now.
The trick with an internal mix gun is to thin the paint properly, especially acrylic finishes.
I recommend the Pasche, which I've used for years. There are a lot of good Airbrushes out there, but Pasche has been around forever and it is easy to get parts, tips and accessories for without going broke.
Cared for, it should last you your lifetime.
The big thing with airbrushing is dealing with humidity - get yourself a inline moisture trap -these can be combined with a pressure regulator and I would place this in line with your current compressor in proximity to the Compressor itself.
Nothing can ruin a paint job faster than an mositure blot from an airbrush -you get no warning.
I use a commercial 250 gal upright compressor with quick-release fittings and a heavy duty air purification system for both airbrushing and sandblasting.
You can get everything you need at better art supply stores and some hobby shops, but you may need to visit a hardware store for all the fittings to insure a trouble-free paint line.
Good luck.
HF1
I will second HF1s comments about a double action internal mix airbrush. I have a Paasche VL that works very well for me. I use acrylic paints exclusively and have only had problems when I didn't thin the paint correctly. I also take the brush apart and clean it well after each use.
Joe
Thanks for the responses ( more to think about)
I read on some sites that some brushes are easier to change back and fourth between different colours. Is this correct? If so can someone expand on as to why some are easier and quicker to change colours than others? Thanks.
BATMAN I read on some sites that some brushes are easier to change back and fourth between different colours. Is this correct? If so can someone expand on as to why some are easier and quicker to change colours than others? Thanks.
I've been using my Paasche VL for over 30 years and am very satisfied with it. Clean it thoroughly after each use and it will last a lifetime.
I usually don't paint until I have enough items to make it worthwhile, especially in the winter, as my paint shop is about 100' behind the house and needs to be heated before it can be used. This usually means lots of different colours in a single session. I've only used the colour cup two or three times, as Polly S, Polly Scale, Floquil and Model Masters bottles all fit the VL's siphon cap. As I use up the paint from suitable bottles, I simply clean them with lacquer thinner, then use them in which to mix paint and thinner for airbrushing.
I usually start with clear finishes when applying multiple colours, then progress to whites, yellows, similar light colours, then into the darker shades, and finishing up with blacks. Unless the change is very drastic, I simply spray a little thinner through the siphon tube and brush, then install the next jar of paint. (To avoid wasting paint during this procedure, unscrew the current paint bottle from the siphon cap and, with the bottom end of the siphon tube out of the paint but still over the bottle, pull the trigger back without pressing down. Most of the paint left in the tube will flow back into the bottle. This also decreases the amount of thinner required to clean things out before the next colour.)
When doing weathering, or painting a large number of cars using similar shades of the same colour, there's no need to clean at all between colours. I often alter the colour after spraying a number of cars simply by pausing and adding some more paint to the jar currently in use.
If you plan your order of work properly, you may not have to clean the airbrush thoroughly until all of the work has been done. On the other hand, if you think you've finished and then realise that you've got something that needs to have a clear coat or a light colour applied, it's probably in your best interests to stop painting, dis-assemble the airbrush and clean it completely. The VL can be taken apart, cleaned, and re-assembled in a minute or so, so it's not a big deal. I also do a teardown and cleaning if switching from lacquer-based paints to acrylics or vice-versa.
If you get an airbrush, you should also think about getting (or making) a spray booth, with a proper exhaust to the outdoors. My paint room is the size of a small closet, with a booth vented to the outdoors and with an inlet for "make-up" air to maintain airflow. The room is otherwise sealed to keep out dust, insects, and furry intruders - a clean environment in which to paint will afford not only better results, but more comfort while painting. Even with a vented spray booth, it's a good idea to wear a two-stage respirator when airbrushing, whether spraying acrylics or lacquer-based paints. Plan for good lighting, too: I use overhead fluorescents and a pair of adjustable-arm desk lamps aimed into the spray booth, so that there are no shadows.
Wayne
I have also been using the Paasche VL for 25 years or so as a custom painter. I use the paint cup exclusively and always strain the paint (90% acrylics now). Painting straight from the paint bottle is a bad idea, the chances of getting lumps and dried paint particles (from the bottle cap) and clogging the airbrush are high, especially if you don't strain the paint, (you won't find any pro auto body painters shooting straight from the can). There are also fewer parts to clean, I can change colors in 30 seconds and do a thorough cleaning in 2-3 minutes. It takes a bit longer with solvent paints.
The Paasche VL dual-action internal mix brush is durable and capable of very fine results with some practice, (all airbrushes will require some practice). You do also need a moisture trap and a regulator near the point of painting. As long as your compressor is capable of supplying 40+ psi you're ok. Most painting is done between 15-30 psi.
I built my own booth out of plywood, a furnace filter, a bathroom fan (with a brushless motor) and some dryer hose. I also keep a 2.5 gal water jug and a plastic tub next to the booth for quick and easy access to cleaning.
You can find all kinds of fancier and more expensive airbrushes, but for our purposes, the $100 Paasche or other equivalent will do a great job with practice and that's really the key, practice, practice, practice.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I agree with the above whole-heartedly! But I have a couple of Paasche´s; both the VL and even a A-model. I use to call them the knitting-needle makers , due to the softness of their needles....
That is why I always tell people to buy an as expensive Airbrush that they can afford.
The Iwata´s that I have is more expensive than the "standard" Airbrushes on the market, but the alloys they use are better than most. Wich in turn makes them more durable.
I work with my Airbrushes on a daily basis, and I change the needle and nozzle assembly once a year on them. More often than not it is unneccesary, but I do it anyway. And it´s good to have the spare needles and nozzles if someone is in dire straits!
The Iwata Eclipse line seems to be the most readily available in the greater Vancouver area. There are two or three models in the $100.00 to $200.00 range. I don't want to put my mother inlaw in the poor house.
I've been lurking in some Airbrush Forums the last couple of day's and a lot of seem to be going out to the Eclipse line of brushes
Next question; Gravity feed or Suction feed. Is there much difference and what are your preferences. It almost seems like the gravity feed is more suited to our hobby because of the small things we work on. They require a small amount of paint. Thanks
Gravity feed! It´s the only way to go in my opinion, as you can use lower airpressure, paint with thicker paints (less risk of runs in the finish) and that you don´t need to mix as much paint in the cup as you would need in a suction feed. The suction fed ones have one more drawback; the dreaded "dropping can syndrome"! That could drive you crazy for sure.
BATMAN feed. Is there much difference and what are your preferences. It almost seems like the gravity feed is more suited to our hobby because of the small things we work on. They require a small amount of paint.
feed. Is there much difference and what are your preferences. It almost seems like the gravity feed is more suited to our hobby because of the small things we work on. They require a small amount of paint.
It doesn't make a huge difference. Having the color cup mounted on top of the airbrush is nice, at least you don't have to worry about losing the little siphon hose. As far as one working better than the other, I'd say it's not much different. The gravity feed might be a little less trouble to get to work, however it does mean if you need to wash the airbrush before using another color - which might relate back to your earlier question about doing multiple colors.
With a siphon feed, you can have multiple jars with different colors in them. So if have say a plastic boxcar you want to paint primer gray, and a passenger car you want to paint Pullman green, you can spray the boxcar with primer, then remove that paint jar and screw one on with thinner or water (depending what type of paint you're using) and spray that til the spray is clear. Then you can screw on the Pullman green and spray that, then spray thinner/water again to clean out the brush's interior.
Some airbrushes are made so that paint jars screw right on. Badger airbrushes are made so Badger paints can be screwed right on without needing to pour the paint into a separate jar.
I'll agree with the Paasche VL users, it's the best for the price. I've used mine for over 15 yrs. without a problem. I used another brand before but had to introduce it to mister hammer because it had a habit of clogging up at the most inopertune times. I didn't read all the threads so forgive me if I repeat someone else, but you can pick up a small air compressor with regulator for under $50 at places like Miejers. Just make sure to use a moisture trap with whatever compressor you use.
Get a good quality airbrush. Paasha, Badger and Iwata make good brushes more than adequate for the average modeler. I have all three brands, I am happiest using the Iwata. A double action internal mix is certainly the best choice, giving you the most control, but it will take practice. Top or bottom feed depends on how much paint you plan to run through at one time. If painting O scale boxcars you may find the top feed cup will not hold enough paint causing you to stop in mid paint application. I think the top feed was originally designed for artists using very small amounts of paint, we modelers use a fair amount of paint sometimes. Get a screen to slide over the syphon hose, Badger makes them, they work great if painting straight out of the paint bottle. And should be used on custom mixes as well.
Air supply, if you have a large compressor in the garage, run a solid air line into your painting area. Put a regulator and moisture trap on where you can easily access it, ie next to the paint booth. Use quick connect couplers, any auto supply store carries them. Iwata makes a very nice miniature quick coupler for air brush hoses.
Doug Harding
I'm going to mildly disagree with what many have posted here. Different airbrushes serve different purposes. For an airbrush artist, an expensive brush is a must. But a double-action takes more practice to get used to and to obtain good results. An inexpensive single-action is likely to be much less frustrating for a beginner or occasional user, unless you need to paint superfine lines or do special effects.
I have and use several airbrushes of different types. I honestly can't recall the last time I opted for one of my double-action brushes for a model railroading project.
I definitely agree with the suggestion to avoid off-brand and no-name brushes - you don't know what you're getting, it may be crap and it will probably be difficult to get accessories or replacement parts.
I will make this quick and painless there is only one name you need to remember when it comes to airbrushes
Iwata is by far the top of the line airbrush hands down. Paasche was once top of the line but in my o/p no more. I have had an airbrush or shall I say all of them in my hand professionally for 30 years in the custom car and bike biz so I've owned or tried them all. No matter which model you buy you can't make a bad choice on top of excellent quality they have outstanding customer service as well. I purchase all of my airbrushes and supplies from TCP global they have the best prices I have yet to find.
I would suggest you start off with an entry level double action unit and work your way up. As mentioned by Graffen if you start off with junk your only going to get junk results and it will succeed in doing nothing more the souring you on airbrushed and ruining a model or two.
Here is a link to their site.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/iwata-airbrush-kits.aspx
If it hasn't been mentioned, try learnairbrush.com . Loads of information there.
Pat Curtis
Parker, CO
If I were looking for an airbrush, going by these responses I would buy a Paasche! As it happens I have a Badger 150 Crescendo that I absolutely love so don’t need to look elsewhere, there are lots of choices out there but it’s up to you to decide what you need and what for fills those needs. End of the day weather you know it or not you need a double action gun, which one suits you is for you to decide.