I have a brass Southern Pacific 4-10-2 that I'm adding a can motor to. I was just going to use the rubber tubing like I usually do to go between the motor shaft and the gearbox shaft. After I received the motor the distance was longer than I would like so I came up with another method of sorts. I have seen many pictures of people using a brass strap between the motor and the gear box to keep the gear box in place and not move around. The drilled and tapped holes in the gear box and motor mount.
I did not use a motor mount but instead just used black silicone adhesive to mount the motor. So I came up with the idea of using the silicone adhesive to mount the brass strap. This has probably been done before but new to me. So I drilled a couple of holes in the brass strap where it goes over the motor and the gearbox so some of the silicone adhesive would ooze through to make a more secure and stronger bond. Where I goofed was I did not get the angle right on the brass strap the first time around and when I mounted the boiler the weight hit the strap so I had to remove it and re-bend the brass strap. Just made it a little more messy compared to the first time. Lesson learned.
The motor I bought off Ebay for $9.95 from the Motorman. It is a Pittman motor with 2.70 oz/in of torque. For comparison the Mashima 1833 is around 1 0z/in of torque. I was going to use the NWSL 2032D-9 motor as that worked out very well in my Intermountain AC12 conversion but this motor is 1/3 the price. I'm going to be adding a Tsunami decoder and install that above the weight in the boiler. I will be installing one or two high brass speakers in the tender. Even though it is a Vanderbuilt the way this one is built I have access to the interior and enough room to mount large speakers. I used a NWSL u-joint drive line. This method makes the motor conversions a lot easier. Here is a picture of the mount.