Went to the local Model Railroad Meeting here in Jackson, Tennessee where I met some wonderful people, a very active club. Viewed a fine layout that should be in the magazines for all to see.
While I was there I asked the host how he approached the removal of decals and paint. He has customized much of his rolling stock and his work is truly above my skills. He then picked up a bottle of brake fluid and said, "This is my answer". I couldn't wait to try it. Went to Wal-Mart bought a bottle raced home and my son and I applied it to some old cars my son was re-doing and it worked. A few rubs with a Q-Tip and brake fluid, the decals came right off and did not damage the paint, if you soak the car in the brake fliud to remove the paint; it takes longer. Just check on the car; when the paint is ready to remove, (10-20 minutes), just rub it off with paper towels then wash in warm soapy water.
It was amazing. My son has since applied new decals and they look really good.
His track cleaning was done with transmission fluid, so again I purchased some transmission fluid, used a Q-Tip and applied it to the track and it really cleaned the rail heads. He advised me to place some around the layout, applying it to the track in different places. Then run trains. It cleans the track as well as the wheels. It is electrically conductive, thus it improves contact with the wheels and the running of your engines.
Thanks,
Robert Sylvester, WTRR
Thanks for the tips. On the Trans fluid how far apart did you use it? How could you tell it clean the track?
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I would be very, very careful using brake fluid on plastic models. I am a custom painter and used to use BF to strip bodies with. On several occasions I've found that the BF will damage and make the plastic turn brittle, developing cracks in it like dried mud flats. Sometimes its real hard to replace those bodies.
You will find people that swear by BF for stripping, but the formulas have changed over the years for BF. I wouldn't use BF for anything.
I've had real good success using Solva-set, and a Q-tip to remove lettering.
I have heard of using ATF as a track cleaner, as well as Wahl clipper oil. I haven't tried the ATF as a cleaner but I do use it as a locomotive lubricant.
Carey
Keep it between the Rails
Alabama Central Homepage
Nara member #128
NMRA &SER Life member
thats wye I'am scared of the bf and the trammy fluid I'd prefer to leave in the car! rambo1...
cjcrescent I would be very, very careful using brake fluid on plastic models.
I would be very, very careful using brake fluid on plastic models.
I would be very, very careful of using brake fluid for anything. It's extremely corrosive and extremely toxic. There are better alternatives.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Brake fluid for removing lettering and stripping paint is old technology as far as model railroading goes. As others have said it is very toxic and evasive if left in a bath too long it will destroy the integrity of a car body by making it brittle. It also has always been well noted that great care must be taken to wash of any residue thoroughly If the slightest bit is left behind it will reak havoc on your paint job or decals. Just ask any auto body shop what it will do to your cars paint job if spilled on it..
The new and in my o/p far improved method of stripping and track cleaning is using 90% Isopropyl alcohol. If you want to strip paint off of rolling stock or loco shells let them sit in a bath of I/A for about 20 to 30 minutes. In most cases thats all you'll need a few passes with an old tooth brush and your done. Rinsing in cold water is of course a good idea but not as critical as with break fluid as alcohol evaporates very fast so all your rinsing off is what may be left of the old paint.
The choice is obviously yours but I feel I/A is a better/safer method
Brake fluid (Dot 3) has been used for decades to strip model trains. In earlier years it was quite effective with Athearn Blue Box models and Tyco. However in the last decade newer thinner plastics are not compatible with brack fluid. A commercial stripper available through hobby shops that works with most everything is Scalecoat paint stripper. 99% alcohol works on a lot of models, but not everything, it's cheap though so it always worth a try.
ALWAYS wash the model with soapy water after stripping no matter what you use and then rinse thoroughly and let it air dry.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Appreciate everybodies input, discussed these concerns with the club, these products have been used for years, thus far no problems. Even with new rolling stock and motive power. Will watch it closely, the track cleaning works very well with transmission fluid and a Q tip, could see results immediately.
In fact there are around twenty engines just completed using BF for cleaning and reapplication of paint via airbrush and decals, the equipment looks good, no cracks. And yes washing is important.
Most of these gentlemanhave been in the hobby for over twenty-five/thirty years with really nice layouts and have been using these products for years. They have had no problems. I watch my equipment closley, I have been building railroads and have experimented with just about everything since 1962. For example: I asked about LaBelle 101 which many use for better conduction on the track, it evaporates over time, the transmission fluid will last up to a year. LaBelle has to be used in several areas on the track, the fluid takes maybe two one foot strip applications (one foot long on both rail heads), for my layout and it is 25X30 layout.
As it has been said, good information and good suggestions, certainly important to listen to caution. Thus far for these guys these products have worked well.
robert sylvester Will watch it closely, the track cleaning works very well with transmission fluid and a Q tip, could see results immediately.
How Robert? Did the engines run better? Did you wipe the track down and saw crud on the cloth?
Cuda Ken:
Yes, it seems loosen the dirt or what ever is on the track, breaks it up and desolved the residue. I first ran an engine on one track that had difficulty with electrical contact, did nothing but apply a thin residual of the fluid with a Q-Tip then ran the same engine over the same track and the performance was very much improved. No stalling or hesitation and I noticed the wheels were cleaner to. I admit I have only used this for four weeks with only one application but all I can tell you is that it works.
Just have to see how it works in long term to see if the results are the same. The modelers in the club swear by it and have used this method for years. I told them of the concerns, but they have not had any problems.
I have posted this before but, it bears posting again. Brake fluid is an alcohol based product. which is why it removes paint so well. The problem with it is the additives they put into it to help with seal lubrication, temperature stability and corrosion protection. It is better to use just the straight alcohol. Also, if you do use brake fluid be careful to make sure you do not get one of the newer silicone based ones. They won't remove paint and getting it cleaned off is next to impossible. As for the transmision oil to clean tracks...it has a high detergent ratio. This is why the insides of an automatic transmisions are usually as clean as they are. Te detergents help clean the interior passages to allow for proper oil flow to allow the trans to operate properly. Most light houshold oils are similar such as 3 in 1 oil and Whall clipper oil. However, WD-40 is not the same. It is primarily Kerosene with a small amount of light oil and perfumes. I learned this in a previous life as a petrolium product salesman for a local distribution company.
Dan
OK Robert, let me see if I have this straight. Dip the Q Tip in the T/F and add a small amount here and there around the layout. Then just run the train's, no wiping or clean up.
Sorry to seem so dense, but I want to do it right. There is a lot of rails and most are in hard to reach areas. On time I over oiled a engine and it leaked on the rails. Engines where spinning there wheels all over the places. Even my Y6 b could not pull its train up grade. Took 3 hours to get the layout back into running order.
cudaken Sorry to seem so dense, but I want to do it right. There is a lot of rails and most are in hard to reach areas. On time I over oiled a engine and it leaked on the rails. Engines where spinning there wheels all over the places. Even my Y6 b could not pull its train up grade. Took 3 hours to get the layout back into running order.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Ken, I've used the ATF method to clean my layout (27'x18') and haven't touched the track in months. I can go down to the basement, turn on the controller, and my locomotives will just creep around the layout. I put a little fluid in a plastic cup, then dip in the Q-tip. Then, I press the swab against the side of the cup, squeezing out as much fluid as I can. You only need a thin film, not so much that it runs down the rails onto the ties.
Then I slide the Q-tip along a short 1" section of track, both rails, every 10 feet or so. I push a short string of cars around the layout to spread it. I plan to make a track wiper car to add to the cut of cars (piece of masonite with a piece of cloth diaper attached) to remove any excess). I was at my LHS last year, and was going to buy some Rail-Zip track cleaner, when the owner told me to save a bunch of money and buy a quart of Dexron/Mercon ATF, instead. It was basically the same stuff. $2.19 for a quart compared to $5.69 for 1 oz made a lot of sense to me.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Marlon, thank you for the detailed answer. I will give it a try later today.
LOL sorry Ken but that just cracked me up. Guess it's still early and I'm on my first cup of coffee. I can picture you standing there cursing up a storm while all the trains are spinning (slipping). Made for a nice early morning chuckle. I'm going to give the ATF a try since I have some in the garage and I got about 15pcs of used track up at the hobby shop in Sarasota. He only had a few pieces so I'm going to be hitting craigslist today and see if I can round up more track. I'll let you know how mine turns out as I know I have alot of dirty track.
I just want to ask when using brake fluid to strip can you use old used fluid or must it be fresh and can you reuse it for another paint project?rambo1..
FirstCavArmyVetLOL sorry Ken but that just cracked me up. Guess it's still early and I'm on my first cup of coffee. I can picture you standing there cursing up a storm while all the trains are spinning (slipping). Made for a nice early morning chuckle.
I have not forgotten about the Fp 45's.
Far as the track, I would clean it before you try the ATF.
Far as used track, nothing wrong with it. Have you tried Flex Track? Still not bad at $3.45 for 3 feet. New is good.
Ken