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Wooden structure assembly method

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  • Member since
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  • From: Winnipeg Canada
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Wooden structure assembly method
Posted by Blind Bruce on Sunday, July 18, 2010 11:23 AM

The instructiond say to use Tite Bond glue. They also say to paint before assembly. I do not think you can glue painted wood with Tite Bond. I like the thought of pre-painting to seal the wood so it doesn't warp. What glue is easy to apply in small quantity and still stick the wood together? Please don't tell me to use ACC! I hate that stuff.

73

Bruce in the Peg

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Posted by doctorwayne on Sunday, July 18, 2010 2:18 PM

I'm about as crazy about building models with wood as you are about ACC.  Smile,Wink, & Grin  However, contact cement or Weld Bond should do the job.  I've also heard of modellers using epoxy, although I don't think that it's suited to this task.

Wayne

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Posted by dstarr on Sunday, July 18, 2010 3:35 PM

 The PVA glues, Tight Bond, the other yellow carpenter's glues, and Elmers white glue, need to bond to the bare wood.  A coat of paint, sealer, or whatever, cuts the bond strength drastically.  The PVA glues on bare wood bond more strongly than the wood itself.  If you try to break such a joint, the wood will break before the glue breaks.  You have to clamp the joint to obtain full strength. 

  So the real answer is paint the parts but keep the paint off the glueing areas.  Mask if using an airbrush, or just have a steady hand with a paint brush.  

  If this is impossible,  you can use cellulose cement (Duco cement) , rubber cement, contact cement (Walthers Goo)  epoxy or Gorilla Glue.  The results won't be as strong, the strength of the joint will be no better than the grip of the paint on the wood, but may well be strong enough.  Cellulose cement dries very fast so you don't need to clamp the joint.   

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Posted by ARTHILL on Sunday, July 18, 2010 3:38 PM

I usualy paint my pieces after I glue on braces and before assembly. I use wood glue most of the time, of which titebond is an expensive variety.  I do use a lot of ACC but only the superthick Rockler version. It comes with a spray acceperator which it also good when holding pieces in place when curing time is an issue. I put the wood glue on with a toothpick and the ACC can be applied right from the bottle in extreemly small beads. Except for the Rockler version, I agree with you on ACC. It is true that the wood glue is inferior when applied to painted serfaces, but I find it strong enough for my purposes, but I don't have a portable layout either.

If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. my photos http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/ Art
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Sunday, July 18, 2010 5:21 PM

 I'm putting together a laser kit and painted all the parts first per the instructions.  I'm not happy with the results because I've had some issues with gluing small painted parts.  Prepainting didn't eliminate the warping either, even though I painted both sides and put weights on the parts.  This is the first time I used water based paints and that may be part of the warping problem.  Also, I think I should have rearranged the instructions to assemble all the parts (with bracing) that were going to be the same color first and then painted them leaving glue points for other colored parts unpainted.

In the past I've always done all the assembly first (except window glazing) and painted afterward, I think that works better.

Enjoy

Paul

If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by Forty Niner on Sunday, July 18, 2010 6:49 PM

Well, the way it "used" to be done was with Elmer's glue, it's made for glueing wood together, then painting with "regular" Floquil paint thinned to about a 50/50 mixture. Can't say as I ever had a warping problem using this method.

Of course some of these new "safe" paints............are water based, again, great for painting the house you live in but not so great on the bare wood in a 1/87 version house.

I never prepainted any of my wood kits either,or the plastic ones for that matter. I've never seen a glue made for holding "paint" together.

Mark

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Posted by rrebell on Sunday, July 18, 2010 7:57 PM

I do test builds and ca is the way most of the time but sometimes the white comes in handy, especially if you need some work time. You can paint afterwards if you want as long as you use plenty of bracing.

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Posted by markpierce on Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:34 PM

I've built dozens of wooden kits and never had the existence of paint negatively affected the effectiveness of most glues.  (Some of you guys must live in a different universe.)  Elmer's white and yellow glues work well, but now I swear by Canopy glue because it is much more useful.  It is best to paint and stain before gluing parts together because any stray glue applied beforehand will affect the paint/stain absorption, affecting the model's appearance, usually negatively.

Paint does negatively effect the use of solvents as adhesives on plastic models because the paint protects the surface from the solvent, preventing it from melting the plastic to achieve adhesion.

Frequently, additional internal bracing is needed than provided for in kits to curtail warping.  One-eights-inch--square stripwood works in most situations.

Here is a kit recently constructed using Canopy glue exclusively as an adhesive, and also used to make the window glazing   I should have applied a second coating of Canopy glue over the glazing..

 

Mark

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Posted by Bob grech on Sunday, July 18, 2010 9:48 PM

 Having built many craftsmen kits. My best advise / tip is to apply paint prior to glue, especially if you stain your wood. Stains do not take very well over glue due to the fact that the glue acts like a sealer. Another tip is to use white glue (elmer's) and not yellow. White glue is water base, making for much easier clean-up. When working with water base products, be sure to add plenty of interior bracing in order to avoid warping the wood. 

Have Fun.... Bob.

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Posted by Robby on Monday, July 19, 2010 1:32 AM

 I use Tite Bond III for all my wooden structures.  I've used I and II before but III seems to be the latest and greatest and pretty much waterproof.  I had TB I come apart once when I went back to touch up some areas with a water-base stain but this doesn't seem to happen with TB III. I stain (everything) and paint (major sections such as walls) before assembly.  Never had any problems with the TB III bonding to painted surfaces.  Styrene to wood is a different story, TB III is not recommended in this case!  You can of course paint after assembly but never plan to stain after gluing,

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Posted by SpaceMouse on Monday, July 19, 2010 1:42 PM

 I paint first and have never had a problem.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by tcf511 on Monday, July 19, 2010 7:30 PM

 Are canopy glue and Model Master Clear Parts Glue the same thing?

Tim Fahey

Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR

 

 

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