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Straightening Delrin Handrails?

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Frisco, Ellwood City, PA
  • 127 posts
Straightening Delrin Handrails?
Posted by Mr B & O on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 7:38 AM

I bought a NIB Proto2000 SW-9/1200 on eBay and received it yesterday.  This engine is from the original run, and, apparently from being in the box so long, the delrin handrails along the hood side are wavey, really, really wavey.  Any suggestions on how they can be straightened, if that is even possible?

Thanks,

Greg

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    May 2004
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Posted by 7j43k on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 1:40 PM
I think I'd just replace them with wire. Bending them should be pretty simple compared to the frame-edge type.

Ed
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    January 2013
  • 118 posts
Posted by pirate on Saturday, January 12, 2013 12:01 PM

Just like the OP, I have the same problem.  Is brass wire still the only answer?

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  • From: Alabama
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Posted by cjcrescent on Saturday, January 12, 2013 12:14 PM

You may be able to straighten them by heating them in hot water. Let them sit in it for a minute or so, then place on a flat surface with a weight on them, making sure the little pins that hold them into the locomotive side sill aren't damaged.

I've straightened alot of plastic and "engineering plastic"  parts doing this.

Carey

Keep it between the Rails

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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Saturday, January 12, 2013 12:45 PM

pirate

Just like the OP, I have the same problem.  Is brass wire still the only answer?

I have the same type loco and had the same problem. Replacing the handrail with wire is the best solution. I tried many possible solutions on the delrin rail. Hot water, heating it with a blow dryer, etc. I got it straight a few times but it always wnet wavy again after a few days.

Running Bear, Sundown, Louisiana
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Posted by Doughless on Saturday, January 12, 2013 1:39 PM

The wavy handrails are due to a manufacturing defect, I believe.  They are slightly too long to fit in the holes of the shell, causing them to buckle.  I don't think they will ever stay straight.

Yes, it would seem that replacing them with wire is the best solution.

- Douglas

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  • From: Cresco, IA
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Posted by ChadLRyan on Saturday, January 12, 2013 2:51 PM

davidmbedard

 Replace with brass wire.....should be a 2 minute job.

David B

WOW!!!
I WISH I could model at that speed, Dave!!!
Let me wind it down....
Cust the stantions from original (twisted) rail...
Find approiate Brass or Phosphor Bronse Wire...
Caliper it out & find appropriate sized drill bit association.
Locate Drill bit
Collect Tools, Tweezers, DrillVise, Heavy Pin for Pilot poking the drill centers on Stancions.
Performing the Drill holes in Stantcions
Attatching Drilled Stancions
Threading the Wire, after stopping to 'bullet the leading point, so it goes through the holes drilled in prior steps..
Adjusting the misalgined & knocked off stanctions, for the perfect look..
Repainting them, & teying to match the look to the rest of the loco..
Optional:  Making a cocktail to assist in the successes of such an endevour..

Dave, you can do that in 2 minutes?
Really?
You are a God man!!

Am I doing it wrong?

I will discontinue Model Railroading at once, Good bye! Everyone!

Chad L Ryan
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Saturday, January 12, 2013 3:06 PM

Chad, that's funny but true. Even when I would drill/ fit Smokey Valley  stanchions and bend fit solder or CA the rails, it would be a couple evening job as least.

And to the OP's question, you may try hot water and straighten, but any real bad bends/ kinks can be slightly over bent. I have had only marginal luck at getting them straight. This would tend to work far better on ones that you know were straight but got mis-shapened from storage or accident. Any inherent manufacturing distortion will always remain in the "memory" of the plastic. You may make them a bit better, but replacement is the best route.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

  • Member since
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  • From: Cresco, IA
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Posted by ChadLRyan on Saturday, January 12, 2013 4:03 PM

Bob, Thank you, -appreciated!

All, Here is something you may not want to familiarize with, but it happens.. (to Me!)!

I am there too..
Holdups? the handrail situation is certianly one for me, I even got this one sort of decalled! (Acheivement!!)!
The FreeLanced GP18 project has to negociate those nice ones.
That is 'after' I placed them in a book edge for 11 months now, to hopefully 'naturalize' them into straight...
Result: Dimpled wierd looking book edges, & tacky pages...
So, I belive I may be able to relate.
I doubt I can finish this model in 2 minutes, not at a Chadster Quality...
Comments welcomed..

 

I Am With You.....

Chad L Ryan
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    October 2001
  • From: OH
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Posted by BRAKIE on Saturday, January 12, 2013 4:37 PM

Mr B & O
This engine is from the original run, and, apparently from being in the box so long, the delrin handrails along the hood side are wavy, really, really wavy.

Greg,A lot of the early SWs had the wavy hold handrails.

Here's my  method..I use .15000th wire and replace them.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
    October 2001
  • From: OH
  • 17,574 posts
Posted by BRAKIE on Saturday, January 12, 2013 4:50 PM

ChadLRyan

Am I doing it wrong?

Chad,Depends..One can simply measure and cut the handrail..

But,there's zero tolerance for error  using that method since the handrails could be cut to short.

IMHO its best to replace with wire.

 

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: Cresco, IA
  • 1,773 posts
Posted by ChadLRyan on Saturday, January 12, 2013 5:44 PM

Brakie,
LOL, man!!!
As we both know each others style, we know, that we know, how to model, & I think we know, you Know?

'Too Short' has a a really clever & good RAP song called "The Ghetto" check it out, somnething you said triggered that memory.. 

I do a 'Fit by test'  kind of thing, as terms like; Zero Tolerance have connotations, or the the future banning of my personal armory, etc..
Hope they ban my Soldering Iron & Kitty too, 
Phosphor Bronze 0.006 through 0.020 will also be off the table..
Donno...

Chad L Ryan
  • Member since
    January 2013
  • 118 posts
Posted by pirate on Saturday, January 12, 2013 7:59 PM

Thanks for the amusing interest to a serious question! Laugh

Actually, only a couple sections are crooked, so I can't see removing it, boiling it, flattening it, and then reinstalling it, just to fix a couple crooked sections.  I think it is crooked because some sections are too long, so they don't fit right.  They need to be shrunk!  If I have to go to that much trouble, I think it would be easier to replace the whole thing with brass wire.

I also think "a two minute job" is a little unrealistic.  Unless one didn't mind the "ghetto" look.  Still, I've replaced things with brass wire before, so I don't think it would be the worst project in the world.

 

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