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Removing Fly Wheels

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  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Removing Fly Wheels
Posted by cudaken on Saturday, May 8, 2010 5:25 PM

 I picked up a used PK motor for my F 3 that gave up the ghost. Only problem is the flywheels are not the same. On the old Athearn's Blue Boxes I remotored I just pry them off, I was not worried about the old motors.

 Any tips or just He Man it?

 I was using Liquid Nails to attached the old flywheels. Guessing the same would be OK?  This is the only Proto I had to repair so I am looking for advices.

          Ken

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    February 2001
  • 872 posts
Posted by pike-62 on Saturday, May 8, 2010 5:32 PM

I have pullwd Athearns off just as you have. I had to pull some Atlas flywheels once and needed to build a small puller to do it without damaging the motor. It seems like I pulled flywheels from a Proto a while back with nothing more than a good pull. I did not pry them as I did not want to damage the motor or shaft.

Dan

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Southeast Kansas
  • 1,329 posts
Posted by wholeman on Saturday, May 8, 2010 5:32 PM

 I use a piece of vinyl tubing that is big enough to slip over each flywheel.  I then use two pairs of Channel Lock pliers and grab hold of of each flywheel and twist.  The vinyl tubing prevents grooves being formed in the brass from the flywheels.

Will

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Saturday, May 8, 2010 7:48 PM

Ken;

Ideally a small puller that will grab on to the flywheel and push against the motor shaft.

Prying between the flywheel and the motor house will damage the bearings.

 

Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Saturday, May 8, 2010 8:09 PM

 I was able to pull the ones off a Kato-motored Atlas by twisting. If you're lucky, they both break loose and you can get them both off. If only one comes off, pliers on the now empty motor shaft to hold it and then twist the remaining flywheel. When putting them back on, support the free end of the motor, do not rely on the motor bearings to hold while pressing the flywheel on. I've not had a problem with them being too loose afterwards, but I've only ever put the same ones back on, not repalced them or used a different motor with a potentially different shaft diameter. A drop of CA secures them good enough to prevent slippage, but usually can be broken loose if they ever have to come off again.

                                                   --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Posted by cudaken on Sunday, May 9, 2010 5:50 AM

  I am embarrassed to say it took longer to type the question than to get the flywheels off? Gaped and twisted one one came right off. Took my track nippers and but between the motor and flywheel and it pooped right off! It took maybe 15 seconds to do both.

  Just tried the replacement motor, it not going to be that easy. Time to look for the vice gripsConfused   

  Thanks for all the answers.

                  Ken

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Sunday, May 9, 2010 8:42 AM

 I've read that an NWSL gear puller will work.  Also here's a link on how to make your own.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Simple-Gear-Puller/

Springfield PA

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