Had one that the motor went bad on. Bought a new one today and look at the paper work. No warranty card nor does instructions say what the warranty is. Found the web site, again nothing about warranty. All so did not see a section for parts by them self.
Any idea what the warranty is and covers?
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Can't answer your question but just knowing the folks at Bowser/English's I'm sure a phone call to them will get you taken care of.
Chris
Hi!
I've got a lot of the Stewart F units - both the Kato & stewart motors. When Stewart was Stewart, you could personally email them and they would take care of you. I never had any warranty on paper however. Now that English/Bowser owns them, I would suspect that the newer items would be pretty well covered, but not sure about the older ones. Please let us know what happens when you contact them.
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Ken,
Given the superior Cannon and Buehler drives that Stewart uses in their locomotives, I'm surprised to hear that you had one that went bad. For me, they are the absolute best.
With that said, I have no idea about what the warranty is. Personally, I would just call or e-mail Bowser-Stewart directly and see what they have to say. Depending on the age of your locomotive, they might repair your drive for a nominal fee...or even completely replace it for free. It's definitely worth contacting them.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
As stated above, contact Bowser. Instructions and parts lists are on their web site. They do state they no longer have parts for the Kato or Athearn drives.
Go to the Bowser site and check. I do know they answer email. Seems obvious to me.
I have Stewart diesels and they are great runners.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I posted about the problem oh say 3 months ago. I have a Rio Grand F-9 that started making a lot of racket. I would oil the motor, sound would go away for a hour or so and then come back. Darth Saint Fe said it sound like a motor bearing had went bad. It had around 40 hours on it, maybe 80 max. I bought it 10-2009, and it went bad like I said, 3 months ago.
I then over oiled the motor in a last ditch a temp to see if was just a lack of oil. Ran fine, then I shut it down. It was in a tunnel when I shut it down. Next day I gave it power, nothing. Went looking for it and found it sitting in the tunnel with the lights on but no motor control, it ate the decoder.
Do not want to take a chance on eating another DH 163. Pretty sure the extra oil fouled the brushes, motor did not turn and it cooked the motor control of the decoder. I had the same thing happen on a Proto 1000 F 3. But, the F 3 had well over 200 hours on it. I have a motor sitting in front of me for the F 3.
Ken
I'd just call them up. Years back, when Stewart was still independent, I bought an A-B set of F7's on eBay, when it arrived it wa just as the seller promised, still sealed int he original package. However when I took it out, I found one of the steps missing on the B unit shell. Seeing as how it was still sealed in a baggie, I expected to find the missing piece. No dice. So I called up Stewart and even explained that got it on eBay, they said no problem, and in a couple of days I had a fresh painted B unit shell. Great service. And they all run like tops - particularly the Baldwin switchers witht he Canon motors. I'll make excuses to find a way to buy more of them - my grand scheme does include adding the Ironton Railroad to my layout so I can get one of those - looks exactly like the Reading units except they say Ironton - their numbers even fit in as the next numbers in the Reading roster for that type.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
It's always good to hear about a company that has good customer service. The company I've found to have the best service and honoring their warranty is Bachmann. I don't currently have one of their loco's but I did have a shay. I had a problem and they replaced the loco no questions asked. I had the privilege to visit their site in lower northeast philly. All great people including the receptionist. Just a group that obviously loved their job and showed it. There's no doubt that if you have a problem with their loco's the question wouldn't be posted here whether or not it was covered. Sorry to change the subject some but the thread just struck a chord.
Springfield PA
I will be giving them a call Monday and see what they tell me. I still have the recite so that is not a problem. I will let you folks know what they tell me.
Just got off the phone with them. Warranty is only 30 days. Plus the do not cover Stewart Hobbies Engines, only the ones they made after they bought Stewart. Replacement motor with flywheels is $38.00 plus $9.00 shipping. I can get a new engine for only $59.00 from my LHS. So for a extra $13.00 I get a A & B for parts or resale.
Is the dead one an A or B? If it's an A, get a powered B and swap shells. Remvoe the worms and stuff fromt he one with the bad motor,a nd make it into a sound machine - you can fit 2 big plus a little speaker in there, it will sound awesome.
Randy, the B are dummies, I did buy a new set for $59.99 but not sure what I am going to do with it.
Far as sound, this is going to sound odd but I am selling off my sound diesels. I like sound steam engines but to me the diesels just make racket.
Usually you can't get a big enough speaker in a diesel. But a B unit dummy has lots of space. There used to be a picture on the Litchfield Station site of one that Bruce did, with two HUGE speakers plus a crossover and a small one, and the whole shell used as an enclosure. Thta should have been capable of some decent bass rumbling and been a whole lot less tinny that typical diesel sound installs. Just an idea, since Stewart was so nice to use the same trucks, minus gears, on the dummy units so all you have to do is solder wires to the sideframes to get juice. Then you could also do what Andy S showed in MR a few months ago and couple the pickups to the A unit, 16 wheel pickup - if that stalls you have some serious track/wiring problems.