doctorwayne Re the Bachmann 2-6-6-2: If I recall correctly, the bottom cover plate is somewhat retained in place by the wires from the wheel pick-ups. Unless you're repairing the wires or wish to drop the drivers, there's not much reason to remove it. You can inspect the gears by removing the side cover from the gearbox - of course, the engine in question will need to be removed from the loco first. A couple of years ago, I bought one of the original Bachmann 2-6-6-2s, used, at my LHS. The loco ran well both on the store layout, and again when I brought it home. However, since I had a lot of other projects on the go, it was left in its box until early this year. With the thought of finally beginning some alterations to this loco, I got it out and decided to do some tests to see how well it would pull. It certainly needs to have some modifications made to improve it in this area, but, while running it around the layout to see if there were any issues with clearances, it suddenly quit moving while on a grade. A quick look showed the drivers of only the lead engine turning, apparently with insufficient power to drag the loco and its non-turning rear engine up the remainder of the grade. Upon dis-assembly, this is what I found: There are teeth missing from the small part of the compound gear and from the gear which it drives, and there is some damage to the gear on the driver axle, too. This leads me to believe that the loco may have been lubricated with a non-plastic-compatible oil. After considerable on-line conversation with NWSL, I forwarded the complete engine shown, with its side cover, to NWSL. While I've yet to hear back from them, I'm hoping that they either have replacement gears available or that they will have them available, preferably soon. If anybody else here is having gear problems with their Bachmann 2-6-6-2, please contact NWSL at: davidry@osorail.com The more demand that there is for gears, the better the chance is of having them become available. I did contact Bachmann, and was informed that they had no parts available for this loco. Wayne
Re the Bachmann 2-6-6-2: If I recall correctly, the bottom cover plate is somewhat retained in place by the wires from the wheel pick-ups. Unless you're repairing the wires or wish to drop the drivers, there's not much reason to remove it. You can inspect the gears by removing the side cover from the gearbox - of course, the engine in question will need to be removed from the loco first.
A couple of years ago, I bought one of the original Bachmann 2-6-6-2s, used, at my LHS. The loco ran well both on the store layout, and again when I brought it home. However, since I had a lot of other projects on the go, it was left in its box until early this year. With the thought of finally beginning some alterations to this loco, I got it out and decided to do some tests to see how well it would pull. It certainly needs to have some modifications made to improve it in this area, but, while running it around the layout to see if there were any issues with clearances, it suddenly quit moving while on a grade. A quick look showed the drivers of only the lead engine turning, apparently with insufficient power to drag the loco and its non-turning rear engine up the remainder of the grade.
Upon dis-assembly, this is what I found:
There are teeth missing from the small part of the compound gear and from the gear which it drives, and there is some damage to the gear on the driver axle, too. This leads me to believe that the loco may have been lubricated with a non-plastic-compatible oil. After considerable on-line conversation with NWSL, I forwarded the complete engine shown, with its side cover, to NWSL. While I've yet to hear back from them, I'm hoping that they either have replacement gears available or that they will have them available, preferably soon. If anybody else here is having gear problems with their Bachmann 2-6-6-2, please contact NWSL at: davidry@osorail.com
The more demand that there is for gears, the better the chance is of having them become available. I did contact Bachmann, and was informed that they had no parts available for this loco.
Wayne
Wayne:
Holy cow, if I've ever seen a photo of Gear-Tower OVERKILL, that's it! Especially with gear teeth that big. Even the more elaborate gear towers from NWSL have finer gear teeth than that--those big teeth just look like an accident waiting to happen no matter WHAT kind of lube was used.
Sorry, but that's just plain SCARY! I'm going to be VERY careful with my Spectrum 2-6-6-2, just from looking at that gearing contraption.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Ken, Ineed to reduce my collection, badly. and I can make availabe to you any or all of the following: Rivarossi C&O H8, Lionel UP Challanger, BLI Blueline N&W A, Bachmann C&O 2-6-6-2, P2K N&W Y-3. All have DCC and sound, are as new, test run only. If interested, con-tact me at glennmorlock@comcast.net or (270)877-6433. Glenn
Doctorwayne
Thanks for the interior picture of the gearbox, and as stated I'm sure its best to remove the boiler/cab for oiling/greasing the gear towers and worms rather than the bottom cover plates. And I'm sure this has been covered before but being a new owner of a H4 whats the best way of removing said boiler to gain access to the towers and are the tower side covers held on with screws or clips.
Thanks Larry
CB&Q Modeler Doctorwayne Thanks for the interior picture of the gearbox, and as stated I'm sure its best to remove the boiler/cab for oiling/greasing the gear towers and worms rather than the bottom cover plates. And I'm sure this has been covered before but being a new owner of a H4 whats the best way of removing said boiler to gain access to the towers and are the tower side covers held on with screws or clips. Thanks Larry
The steam dome is a press fit, it pops off and there is a screw under it that hold the boiler on. The cab sides spread at the bottom and it pots off. After that, you will see the wires that must be unhooked and the screws that hold the top half of the boiler weight on. Remove the wires and the top weight, than the runniing gear will all be exposed.
Sheldon
ATLANTIC CENTRAL CB&Q Modeler Doctorwayne Thanks for the interior picture of the gearbox, and as stated I'm sure its best to remove the boiler/cab for oiling/greasing the gear towers and worms rather than the bottom cover plates. And I'm sure this has been covered before but being a new owner of a H4 whats the best way of removing said boiler to gain access to the towers and are the tower side covers held on with screws or clips. Thanks Larry The steam dome is a press fit, it pops off and there is a screw under it that hold the boiler on. The cab sides spread at the bottom and it pots off. After that, you will see the wires that must be unhooked and the screws that hold the top half of the boiler weight on. Remove the wires and the top weight, than the runniing gear will all be exposed. Sheldon
selectorKen, I have a feeling one of the main HO suppliers of steam is thinking hard about a Yellowstone.
So... who do you think might be looking at a Yellowstone and which one? I have an EM-1 and an AC-9 in brass by Akane but would really rather have a newer "modern" model.
dlm
Modern did you say!
Would be really great if BLI planned on producing one of the DM&IR M4s in their Paragon2 series using the diecast boiler for heavy weight and great tractive effort.course they seem to lean more toward the Eastern roads but hey' it could happen right?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8UJZ1SzX2Q
CB&Q ModelerWould be really great if BLI planned on producing one of the DM&IR M4s in their Paragon2 series
I bet it would be the only time no one would complain "not another big steam engine"!
Reason I have not bought another articulated is because I bought a new engine. It is made by TORO with a 6.5 HP Brig and Stratton engine and is self-propelled with a 22 inch deck. Yep, the 17 year old lawn mower ate it's decoder!
Ken
I hate Rust
I'm still drumming my thumbs waiting for a Denver & Salt Lake 2-6-6-0 (or two) in HO scale. The prototype is an ideal-sized articulated for most layouts. I tell you, the manufacturers are clueless and are missing the big bucks. DO YOU HEAR ME?! I suppose not. Nobody listens to me.
Mark
cudakenCB&Q ModelerWould be really great if BLI planned on producing one of the DM&IR M4s in their Paragon2 series I bet it would be the only time no one would complain "not another big steam engine"! Reason I have not bought another articulated is because I bought a new engine. It is made by TORO with a 6.5 HP Brig and Stratton engine and is self-propelled with a 22 inch deck. Yep, the 17 year old lawn mower ate it's decoder! Ken
I am debating after today weather to also buy another locomotive or look around the hole in my windshield caused by a flying rock from the dump truck in front of me today. It's not that big of a hole or maybe I can just kick the windshield out and wear goggles. I have to ask why is it always my train budget that takes a hit every time something goes wrong?
danmerkelselectorKen, I have a feeling one of the main HO suppliers of steam is thinking hard about a Yellowstone. So... who do you think might be looking at a Yellowstone and which one? I have an EM-1 and an AC-9 in brass by Akane but would really rather have a newer "modern" model. dlm
Dan, I honestly haven't a bit of INT on the model. I have asked BLI to give it some serious thought because the time is ripe...oooohhh....soooo ripe. But I don't know if anyone is actually going to take a stab at it. I would be very happy if BLI did a brass Hybrid. I'd bet they'd sell nearly twice the number that the Q2 or other recent Hybrids sold. This is the one engine that I am sure hasn't been done in plastic or diecast metal. If MTH does it in diecast and DC, I'd have to get out the wallet anyway. I just want someone to do it, and have started the rumour.
-Crandell
Perhaps Athearn would consider the AC-9 since they seem to be leaning towards bigger West Coast steam. Spectrum did do the USRA 2-6-6-2 which was at home on a couple of Eastern roads... BLI is all over the place with their offerings. I don't know about MTH as I've never owned one but I understand that they can be pricey and a little quirky... don't they have a 24-volt system?
I'd come up with some excuse to run an EM-1 on my "Eastern Division" of the NKP if an affordable one ever came along... : )
A POX on this thread
I got so psyched up I got my Type A out of the display cabinet and had to run it
Since it isn't lettered for the ME&O I ran it as a Fanfare on my 24 radius with the Bachmann 4-4-0 on the 22 radius both pulling old time passenger cars
THEN THEN I got so enthused I went and ordered a BLI Norfolk Western 2-8-8-2 to go with the 2-6-6-4
I swore I was done buying trains
51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )
ME&O
UncBob THEN THEN I got so enthused I went and ordered a BLI Norfolk Western 2-8-8-2 to go with the 2-6-6-4 I swore I was done buying trains
Look deeply into the monitor... deeper... deeper... you will buy more trains... you WILL buy more trains...
"*Snap!*"
Heading to your local hobby shop, huh? Have a good time!
Don't feel too bad... after I thought about my bigger steam engines that really don't fit my NKP themed layout, I went out and bought cabooses to run behind them. What's worse is that I couldn't decide which kind I liked so I got a couple different ones for each road! I better quit staring into my own monitor...
Uncabob' you ordered a BLI Y6B? You better have lottas and lottas freightcars perferably 55ton N&W hoppers or your gonna go broke buying enough to satisfy the drawbar pull on those two brutes heh'heh'heh.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d43t-ms3yJI
selector danmerkel selectorKen, I have a feeling one of the main HO suppliers of steam is thinking hard about a Yellowstone. So... who do you think might be looking at a Yellowstone and which one? I have an EM-1 and an AC-9 in brass by Akane but would really rather have a newer "modern" model. dlm Dan, I honestly haven't a bit of INT on the model. I have asked BLI to give it some serious thought because the time is ripe...oooohhh....soooo ripe. But I don't know if anyone is actually going to take a stab at it. I would be very happy if BLI did a brass Hybrid. I'd bet they'd sell nearly twice the number that the Q2 or other recent Hybrids sold. This is the one engine that I am sure hasn't been done in plastic or diecast metal. If MTH does it in diecast and DC, I'd have to get out the wallet anyway. I just want someone to do it, and have started the rumour. -Crandell
danmerkel selectorKen, I have a feeling one of the main HO suppliers of steam is thinking hard about a Yellowstone. So... who do you think might be looking at a Yellowstone and which one? I have an EM-1 and an AC-9 in brass by Akane but would really rather have a newer "modern" model. dlm
Crandell:
One strong selling point about the Missabe 2-8-8-4's that should be mentioned to manufacturers is that in real life, those big, handsome babies spent as much time OFF the Missabe as they did on. They were a favorite WWII 'loaner' to roads like Rio Grande, Great Northern, Northern Pacific and (rumored) Western Pacific.
Okay, there were only 18 of those gorgeous ladies ever built, but they saw one HECK of a lot more country in their lifetime than the more touted 25 Big Boys ever did. Hopefully, BLI or Genesis will take that into consideration in their next 'big steam' planning.
Wouldn't it be nice within the next five years or so to hear us all grousing about "Oh my God, not ANOTHER Yellowstone!"
markpierce I'm still drumming my thumbs waiting for a Denver & Salt Lake 2-6-6-0 (or two) in HO scale. The prototype is an ideal-sized articulated for most layouts. I tell you, the manufacturers are clueless and are missing the big bucks. DO YOU HEAR ME?! I suppose not. Nobody listens to me. Mark
Mark:
I hear ya. I HEAR YA!
Unfortunately, I'm not a manufacturer, but as the proud owner of a D&SL 2-6-6-0 (one of those cute little 'Rara Avis' PFM'ers from several generations back), I can only echo what you're saying. They're cute as Heck, sure-footed as a Rocky Mountain goat, surprisingly powerful for their size, and can take a 22" radius (even with prototypical Mallet articulation) without looking as if they're going to tear all of the adjacent scenery off of the layout.
They'd be a perfect addition for the modeler who wants a nifty-looking Mallet that would fit on a small layout. Spectrum seems to have found a pretty good winner with their little USRA 2-6-6-2, so it would seem that SOMEONE would discover one of those 16 Moffat Road 2-6-6-0's and let loose with them.
God knows I'D grab up a couple more.
twhite One strong selling point about the Missabe 2-8-8-4's ...
One strong selling point about the Missabe 2-8-8-4's ...
A Denver & Salt Lake 2-6-6-0 would look much bettah running over such "tight" curves.
I have 24- 55 toners and 18 -40 ft box/gondolas all in my own lettering so when I run it it will be a loaner
cudaken CB&Q ModelerWould be really great if BLI planned on producing one of the DM&IR M4s in their Paragon2 series I bet it would be the only time no one would complain "not another big steam engine"! Reason I have not bought another articulated is because I bought a new engine. It is made by TORO with a 6.5 HP Brig and Stratton engine and is self-propelled with a 22 inch deck. Yep, the 17 year old lawn mower ate it's decoder! Ken
you didn't go for the John Deere GP with the 60" deck? Now that would have killed any budget for the next 2 years here
Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry
I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...
http://modeltrainswithmusic.blogspot.ca/
I would have bought a rider, but it would not fit through the gate to the back yard.
markpierce twhite One strong selling point about the Missabe 2-8-8-4's ... A Denver & Salt Lake 2-6-6-0 would look much bettah running over such "tight" curves. Mark
You mean like this, LOL?
twhite Mark: You mean like this, LOL? ...
You mean like this, LOL? ...
Yeah!
Tom, you are definitely THE articulated guy here. Better watch out, though....someone going by the name of Ken is huffing by your shoulder.
Actually, what ever happened to our good friend Lillen with his sagging glass shelf of PCM Big Boys?
Wayne, what was the outcome of your discussions with NWSL, did they come up with a replacement gear set?
Isambard
Grizzly Northern history, Tales from the Grizzly and news on line at isambard5935.blogspot.com
There's been no apparent progress on the gear problem, although I spoke with NWSL not too long ago and was assured that the situation had not been forgotten.
I currently have a couple of loco projects in-progress for others, and at least six re-builds for myself to keep me occupied, so there's no real rush on the 2-6-6-2. By the time the gear issue is resolved, I'll probably have forgotten how to put it back together, though.
I've disassembled my troubled 2-6-6-2 to the point where I'm ready to drop the noisy front engine, but find that the spring loaded slot headed brass screw that secures the engine to the frame is directly under the gear tower drive shaft ball.
If I manage to back the screw out a bit by poking it along from the side, it intereferes with the ball before releasing the engine. I'm missing something. Does the top of the gear tower come off such that the worm gear assembly including the drive shaft ball can be removed and the brass srew removed completely?
I'm not sure how far you've got it dis-assembled, but there's a snap-on cover atop the gear tower - pop it off and the worm and driveshaft lift right out.
In my search for a mallet I chose the Bachmann 2-6-6-2. I have two of the first run and one from the latest run. I am very happy with the three engines. I added a digitrax decoder to the first two and the last one came with factory sound.
Take note that the Bachmann 2-6-6-2's are only slightly larger that the Proto or Bachmann 2-10-2's. I wanted to keep the engine as small as I could and yet still have a mallet or two on the roster. The engines have no problems with 18 inch radius track should that be a concern.
I had no problems with the 2-6-6-2's running DCC with the EMF or engine torgue as another poster had. I suspect that that engine was a one of and certainly did not represent these engines which I would recommend to anyone.
Bachmann has recently expanded their prts offerings and may have the parts some of you need for your problematic 2-6-6-2's.
I did have one that I sent back, but its replacement and the three others I have all run great.