On my current layout, I have a double mainline with the two tracks set apart at a distance of 2 inches on center. At several spots on my layout, I have connected a right and left Atlas #6 Custom-Line turnout together to create a crossover between the outer track and the inner track on the double mainline.
I have no connecting track between the two turnouts, so this causes the outer and inner tracks to pull closer together resulting in a loss of the straightness of the double mainline that irks me. It is not enough to cause derailments or uncouplings, but it doesn't look good if you look closely up and down the mainline tracks. It also causes a somewhat noticeable lateral shift of the cars as the train runs down the track.
My besrt guess is that the the turnouts are designed such that a 2 1/4 inch separation would be required between the outer and inner tracks to keep the double mainline perfectly straight at the point where the crossover occurs. If you just simply connect the right and left turnout together, you are left with a seapration of about 1 3/4 inches between the outer and inner tracks. That seems to close for comfort.
I am contemplating construction of a new layout and I really want a perfectly straight double mainline this time. How have others dealt with the creation of a crossover and maintained perfectly staright track through the crossover? Thanks.
Rich
Alton Junction
I should have mentioned in my initial post that I am talking about HO scale.
Hi!
Been there, done that! I've finished laying the mainline trackage on my HO layout, and put in 4 crossovers using Atlas HO code 100 # 8 turnouts. To maintain a bit more distance between the lines, I put in a 4 inch "straight track" between the turnouts. IMHO, it looks good, and the trains go through them with no problem. One thing, I had to put in Atlas #200 relays to route power to the frogs, as they are pretty long on the # 8s and will stall some locos.
My previous layouts, I used the Atlas # 6 turnouts for crossovers. I put a 3 or 4 inch (I forgot which) straight track section between them and with some adjustments, they lasted for 13 years!
In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with putting in the straight piece of track, and a widening of the distance between the mains is OK - especially if it means troublefree performance.
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Are you talking about a straight crossover where the straight section of both turnouts is in a straight section of mainline, or are you talking about a crossover on a curve? The reason I ask is because you said that you used a left and right turnout to make a crossover.
Anyway, I have an Atlas Custom Line layout book and it has various configurations shown in the back. So unless Atlas has changed the specific track piece dimensions, a crossover made with two right hand turnouts (two left hand would be the same) butted diverging end to diverging end should give you a centerline distance of 2 inches. You can make the centerline distance spread farther apart by adding sections of track between the diverging ends.
In the case of a number 6 right hand and left hand joined together to make a crossover on a curve, you are correct in that the centerline of what would be the straight tracks would be 2-1/4 inch apart.
I have some new Atlas Customline #6 turnouts forming a crossover, and the centerline does come out to be 2 inches. You didn't happen to use some turnouts where someone nipped the diverging lengths of the turnouts short, did you?
maxman Are you talking about a straight crossover where the straight section of both turnouts is in a straight section of mainline, or are you talking about a crossover on a curve? The reason I ask is because you said that you used a left and right turnout to make a crossover. Anyway, I have an Atlas Custom Line layout book and it has various configurations shown in the back. So unless Atlas has changed the specific track piece dimensions, a crossover made with two right hand turnouts (two left hand would be the same) butted diverging end to diverging end should give you a centerline distance of 2 inches. You can make the centerline distance spread farther apart by adding sections of track between the diverging ends. In the case of a number 6 right hand and left hand joined together to make a crossover on a curve, you are correct in that the centerline of what would be the straight tracks would be 2-1/4 inch apart. I have some new Atlas Customline #6 turnouts forming a crossover, and the centerline does come out to be 2 inches. You didn't happen to use some turnouts where someone nipped the diverging lengths of the turnouts short, did you?
Maxman,
First of all, my apologies. I spoke before I thought. The crossovers are on straight sections of double mainline track and, of course, the connecting turnouts are both left-hand or right-hand, as the case may be. My error in this posting is less damaging than when I have mistakenly ordered a left and right turnout to make the crossover, which I have managed to do at least once in the past.
Second, no the turnouts were not nipped as I bought them all new. That is curious that a 2 inch separation is specified in the layout book because when I have tried to fit a crossover into a 2 inch double mainline separation, the mainline tracks pull closer together at the point of the crossover. I will experiment with this a little more. Maybe I am just not laying the flextrack accurately.
Just a thought.
You use the term 2" separation. The standard is 2" center line to center line. Are we talking about the same thing or does your track have 2" of empty space in between them?
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Phoebe Vet Just a thought. You use the term 2" separation. The standard is 2" center line to center line. Are we talking about the same thing or does your track have 2" of empty space in between them?
I may not have stated it correctly when I said 2inch on center, but no there is not a 2 inch space between the two tracks. When I said 2 inch on center, I was referring to the fact that when measured from outer rail to outer rail or inner rail to inner rail, the distance is 2 inches.
When I join two right hand (or two left hand) turnouts together and place this "crossover" into my double mainline, it results in a slight pulling closer effect of the two mainline tracks.
For that reason, I wonder if I need to add a connecting piece of straight track between the two turnouts in order to avoid having the two mainline tracks pull closer together, ruining the straightness effect of the double mainline that I have tried to maintain.
Hope that helps.
I have a double main line with 30 inch radius curve on the outside main and a 28 radius on the inside main. I used Atlas # 8 custom-line turnouts and spread them apart so to fit a 9 inch section of track between them. I did this to handle heavy steamers and to get away from shorter engines from stalling. Than i aligned the main tracks to conform to the switches witch left a nice straight main. My heavy steamers handle them nicely even at full throttle, but i keep a speed restriction of 25 smph through all main-line turnouts. If you have the room, spread your turnouts. Lot smoother operation and no stalls.
richhotrainFor that reason, I wonder if I need to add a connecting piece of straight track between the two turnouts
Unless they, Atlas, have changed the configuration of the turnouts, the two #6s should give you a 2 inch separation. You might want to send Atlas an e-mail asking the configuration question, and please let us know what they say.
For what it's worth, the plan book does give the expected separations for various straight lengths of track place between the turnouts as you mentioned. These are: 2 inch separation for no additional track; 2-1/4 inch for 1-1/2 inch length of additional track; 2-5/8 inch separation for a 4 inch added length; and 3 inch separation for 6 inch added length.
My guess is there is something wonky with your track. I have many Atlas #6 crossovers, and they all have two inch on center spacing, when the diverging legs are connected together.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
nbrodar My guess is there is something wonky with your track. I have many Atlas #6 crossovers, and they all have two inch on center spacing, when the diverging legs are connected together. Nick
Yeah, I am beginning to think so too. I will concede that as I initially laid track, I started with flex track to construct the mainline line, then reached the point where I needed to insert the crossover, then did so, and then continued with the mainline. I now wonder whether it would have made more sense to lay the crossovers first and then build out the mainline with flex track from there in both directions.
That is why I am looking for advice now before I start my next layout.
A company called MLR makes a parallel tool that is used to help get two parallel tracks onto 2 inch centers. It is shown on the Walthers website here: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/479-5002
They also make some other flex track laying aids which are listed here: http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?quick=mlr
Wow! I didn't know they had all those flex track aligning tools. Wish I known that before laying down my track!!
I've been eyeballing / ruler / yardsticking it and I have some crooked mainlines. oops
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Used the 6s on my 22-24 mainline
using a 3 inch piece to connect them gives a 2 1/2 separation between center lines
There is now a 22" gap in the straight
You then need a piece of 22" flex to connect the straight sections
I used 29 inches and 7 " on the other straight because I wanted a longer distance between crossings
51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )
ME&O
Another thought, if you track is a little wonkey looking, look at real railroad tracks.. they have slight devations in straightness. I would not let it bother you unless it is way out "plumb"
I bought my track tool set from Micro Mark.
Eric97123 Another thought, if you track is a little wonkey looking, look at real railroad tracks.. they have slight devations in straightness. I would not let it bother you unless it is way out "plumb"
Eric, That is good advice and believe me I follow it. I have seen enough track in that condition that I don't let it bother me. On the other hand, when I build my new layout, I want to take the proper steps to keep the mainline tracks as straight as possible.
Motley Wow! I didn't know they had all those flex track aligning tools. Wish I known that before laying down my track!! I've been eyeballing / ruler / yardsticking it and I have some crooked mainlines. oops
Same here. I never knew such tools existed when I built my current layout. One of the problems with being a newbie.
richhotrainYeah, I am beginning to think so too. I will concede that as I initially laid track, I started with flex track to construct the mainline line, then reached the point where I needed to insert the crossover, then did so, and then continued with the mainline. I now wonder whether it would have made more sense to lay the crossovers first and then build out the mainline with flex track from there in both directions. That is why I am looking for advice now before I start my next layout. Rich
When I did mine I started with the crossover
richhotrainI now wonder whether it would have made more sense to lay the crossovers first and then build out the mainline with flex track from there in both directions. That is why I am looking for advice now before I start my next layout. Rich
I normally start with the most complex switch work and lay track outward from there. I don't use anything fancier then my Mark I Eyeballs to keep everything straight and parallel.
imho - DON'T USE Atlas Custom Line!
With all due respect - I have some very fine Atlas rolling stock and engines - Atlas 'Custom Line' turnouts simply fall apart after moderate usage on our club. Nearly everyone has ditched them for that reason. The points simply become separated from the throw bar and fall out, with no abuse of any kind.
We went to Peco - problems solved.
jrc
I have been using Atlas customline for years and have all kinds of variations . Every time they change the mark number;II, III, IV; something is changed. The newest ones have problems with the points; they fall apart for no reason. They correct one problem and make a new one. I like the mark III the best. I have several #6 crossovers made with different Mark series and the Mark 4 is different; the spacing doesn't always come out to 2" centers.
Wayne