cudaken Older picture from last summer. My RSD 15 pulling a drag up the mountain at K-10 Model Trains. Jeff, your weathering has improved a lot over the last 5 year! The last one you showed did seem a little over done and below the standards I seen from you. Did look better with out the flash I will give you that. Might hit it with some dull coat and light gray chalk Cuda Ken.
Older picture from last summer. My RSD 15 pulling a drag up the mountain at K-10 Model Trains.
Jeff, your weathering has improved a lot over the last 5 year! The last one you showed did seem a little over done and below the standards I seen from you. Did look better with out the flash I will give you that. Might hit it with some dull coat and light gray chalk
Cuda Ken.
Very cool! Love that shot. Did you make those trees???
John
Okay I finally found them at Michaels, I had to go to Massachusetts though.I picked up 3 pkg's of the 6"
toppers.Thanks too all who let Me know about them and where to look.
Ken, splash some paint on the front edge of that foam, maybe a dark neutral gray or dark green, and you've got a really nice scene there.
compare to this:
It's the same scene, only I painted the fascia green, and fudged in a backdrop with my piece of "Instant Sky"...
And Jeff, keep hammering away at that weathering. We're all at different places, and some of us like moving toward the next place... others, well, they wear Rule 1 like an armband... Whatever floats your boat.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
I agree - nice trees!
DrilineI like the tree's.
Why thank you Driline! I have got much better making them. 2 things I am now doing that has helped a lot with the Super Trees.
1 Paint the stems / trunks with a dark color.
2 After I spray the tress with hair spray, I stuff some ground foam into the branches a little. Makes for a fuller heather looking tree.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
cudaken Then there the mining section. Here is my Class J sitting on the Grain Elevator spur. No carpet there! Cuda Ken
Then there the mining section. Here is my Class J sitting on the Grain Elevator spur.
No carpet there!
I like the tree's. I wish I had more space to allow for that.
In due time Sliver.
CudaKen - I little friendly advice. You need to remove the outdoor carpeting from under the tracks and not just cut it out around the tracks. Remove it and install a proper subroadbed and roadbed that gives the track a sturdy, stable base.
Great Western Rwy fan I see You have received some harsh comments on Your weathering job Jeffrey,Here are some Rules I go by: 1. This is MY railroad 2. I Make the rules 3. If You don't like the way I build or operate My railroad,Consult RULE #1
I see You have received some harsh comments on Your weathering job Jeffrey,Here are some Rules I go by:
1. This is MY railroad
2. I Make the rules
3. If You don't like the way I build or operate My railroad,Consult RULE #1
Ah yes!, The mantra of the "it's my ball and if you don't want to play my game I'll take my ball home" model railroader. You must not have had many friends in the sandbox as a child.
Dave, it is K-10 Model Train, I should have posted that but I was BBQ and posting at the same time. Should have proof read it before posting.
Driline The last pic I saw of Ken's garaged layout still showed bright green tyco grass mat.
There is still a lot of outdoor carpet down Driline, but I have pulled up 32 square feet of it.
Dave VollmerJeff, I was giving some thought to your weathering. I realized I've been down the same road. Weathering is a very difficult art to master. We see photos of the extreme weathering artists' work and we start thinking that everything should be a rotten rustbucket to be realistic. That's clearly not true. Here's a Great Northern GP30 in service in your Empire Builder scheme: http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/gn/gn3013gea.jpg Granted, you may be after a much more aged look than this 1969 scheme. Remember that the following year came the BN merger. However, this illustrates one of the points I'd like to make.
Jeff,
I was giving some thought to your weathering. I realized I've been down the same road. Weathering is a very difficult art to master. We see photos of the extreme weathering artists' work and we start thinking that everything should be a rotten rustbucket to be realistic. That's clearly not true. Here's a Great Northern GP30 in service in your Empire Builder scheme:
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/gn/gn3013gea.jpg
Granted, you may be after a much more aged look than this 1969 scheme. Remember that the following year came the BN merger. However, this illustrates one of the points I'd like to make.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Dave VollmerMy gosh, Ken, that's yours??? Wow!!! Your modeling has gotten exponentially better! I really like that! Looks awesome! The best part is the trees really are to scale compared to the trains. It looks like late Spring up on that mountain. Very, very cool!
Sigh........ if it were only true. I believe that's K-10's model railroad. The last pic I saw of Ken's garaged layout still showed bright green tyco grass mat.
Also, I touched up my existing scenery. Here I redefined the ballast line that was so messy before.
And I remade the road.
When the boy scouts were here for the merit badge, they made some structures. I will keep this one and use it for the yard.
Lastly, I have a modeling tip. When I am doing scenery, I do not want it to spoil my nice ballasting job. To stop this, I take paper towels and lay them over the ballast, and then I wet the edges so they "stick" to the ground and do not allow anything to penetrate beneath.
Enjoy
~G4
19 Years old, modeling the Cowlitz, Chehalis, and Cascade Railroad of Western Washington in 1927 in 6X6 feet.
Dave,
You make many good points reply. Chief among them is that not everything is a rustbucket and, just as rs2mike said, sometimes less is more. I will disagree with you on one item - diesels weather the same way today as they did 50 years ago. I think there was a time in the early to mid 70s when there was a change in the paint formulations that caused paints to fade and peel more than previous paints and more than today. I don't know if it was the elimination of lead or something else but it's just a sense I have. As a Conrail modeler look at the number of CR paint jobs that wore out and had the predecessor rail paint show through. I think advances in paint technology since then has fixed the problem, but it just seems like there was a period that there was some kind of an issue.
Working from prototype pics is always best. Hopefully you can find a pic of exactly the same engine your model. If not, a close relative will suffice. If you can't find a GP30 in GN EB paint then maybe a GP35 or GP9 will give you hints as to how well the paint job weathered. Study pics. Use them as guides so that what you do looks plausible and not like something that simply had a paintbrush jabbed at it a few times.
As Dave said - color choice is difficult, but important, even critical. Again, darker, more subdued colors make the weathering look more realistic, instead of making it look haphazard and unbelievable. Powders, paints, chalks, etc - each has their place in the weathering toolbox. Knowing how to use them separately and together is what turns weathering it an art.
cudaken Older picture from last summer. My RSD 15 pulling a drag up the mountain. Jeff, your weathering has improved a lot over the last 5 year! The last one you showed did seem a little over done and below the standards I seen from you. Did look better with out the flash I will give you that. Might hit it with some dull coat and light gray chalk Cuda Ken.
Older picture from last summer. My RSD 15 pulling a drag up the mountain.
My gosh, Ken, that's yours??? Wow!!! Your modeling has gotten exponentially better! I really like that! Looks awesome! The best part is the trees really are to scale compared to the trains. It looks like late Spring up on that mountain. Very, very cool!
Granted, you may be after a much more aged look than this 1969 scheme. Remember that the following year came the BN merger. However, this illustrates one of the points I'd like to make. What has helped my locomotive weathering is a three-stepped approach.
1. Find prototype photos online for the actual locomotive you're modeling in the same approximate timeframe. Barring that, continue to seek similar classes, similar years, until you come up with something close. Fallen Flags, Railcar Photos, and Railroad Picture Archives are great places to start. For me, I also have the massive Conrail Historical Society photo archive and a library of my own Pennsy roster books to help. But the information is out there and easy to get. Then just match the photo!
2. If the internet can't come to your rescue, amble on down to the KCS yard right there in Leesville. Diesels weather the same way today as they did 50 years ago. Maintenance standards may have changed, but the process of weathering is the same. Take pictures and refer to them when you go to weather.
3. Lastly, just start to think about how a locomotive weathers in general. For example, I have very few photos of the roofs of many of my Conrail diesels. But I've airbrushed more grime on the roofs of my SD40s than on my U-boats because the SDs spent a lot of time in pusher service on the backs of heavy coal and ore drags, and so laid down more exhaust. Blacken the grills a bit... Look for where road grime would splatter up on the truck sideframes, the fuel tanks, the plows, and even the side sill...
Colors and thicknesses are the other challenge. Choice of color is difficult, but sticking to very subdued colors is best. Rust is often not that bright on a locomotive, and the combination of rust and road grime on wheels and trucks can be approximated with colors as subtle and dull as PS Railroad Tie Brown. Sure, there are exceptions, but we gain plausibility through avoiding exceptions and modeling the mundane. The thickness of your application should be thin enough to allow you to add more layers if needed. Removing weathering is much, much more difficult as I'm sure you know. Really, less is undeniably more in this case.
I figured I'd share the philosophy rather than the technique. Each modeler has his own technique. For me, a combination of washes and a dual-action internal mix airbrush works best. I'm also not averse to drybrushing or adding some chalk powders. Every weathering job for me starts with and ends with Dullcote (my wife HATES that smell!).
Here's a loco I just did... It's a Penn Central GP38 repainted as a Conrail unit using some old PC stencils. Hundreds of ex-PC locos wandered the rails like this while waiting for a dip in blue paint.
The prototype:
http://crcyc.railfan.net/locos/emd/gp38/xpc7797ef.jpg
Hopefully this helps a bit. Of course Rule 1 is in effect, but hopefully you've found my suggestions at least positive if not useful. Happy railroading!
Packers#1 Well, seems the weathering discussion has quieted down so I'll leave it lay.
You shouldn't, your an example of how trying a different method (Bragdon Powders) made you a better modeler instead of making the same mistakes over and over again.
nuff said
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Hamltnblue That was quick learning Grampy
That was quick learning Grampy
Once I started, I remembered that I'd done this before on another forum. The memory locks came undone and "poof" the recall was there.
Springfield PA
Well, seems the weathering discussion has quieted down so I'll leave it lay.
Lots of great work posted.
I don't have any pictures or videos from this weekend, despite that I was on spring break. didn't quite get the North Branch roads finished, but hopefully will today as there's just one left to pour and a few areas to fill. will need to get ANOTHER container of Perfectcast for the shops on main street. the passenger platform came out horribly, so it's either going to be relaid with perfectcast or I may use some z scale cork or something. but all that will wait until I have the rest of the North branch basic scenery finished as I'm getting sick of pouring roads. pictures next weekend though
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Might be late to the party, but here's a shot of about the only area on the layout with any scenery well under way. Still need weeds and shrubbery.
Roy
Thanks.
Hi Grampy1
First you open a free account at a site like photobucket.
photobucket.com
Once you do you can upload your pictures there. I think the free account gives you 2 gig to work with which is quite large.
When you want to post a pic you simply open it in photobucket then click on the box called img code. Then you go to a place like here and post a subject and paste the link inside the message. After you open the account and upload the pics if you have a problem post and we'll walk you through it. The first couple take a little time to get used to it but very quickly it will be second nature.
Good Luck
Ok, folks. I tried to upload a jpeg photo and can't figure out how to do it. I have the photo saved in Windows Photoshop, or whatever it is called. When I tried to copy and paste just the photo, I couldn't get a paste option. When I copied my file, all I got was the file. Grrrrr! Help please.
Obviously one of the technologically challenged here.
m hortonWe are all adults here, so don't throw in that rule one crap.
Not true. There are quite a few members who are not adults yet. And Rule 1 by definition ALWAYS applies, unless it's someone else's equipment you're working on.
It's up to the critics to be polite while posting their honest comments (as they generally were here). Posting on an internet forum is not a license to be boorish or just plain rude (you can get in trouble for being too rude on this forum). Blunt is fine; Bludgeoning is not.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I've been using AIM weathering powders for some time now. I really like the results, but you're right - they do wash out a lot when you spray them with fixatives like Dull-Cote. So, I have to over-weather most of the time, and then hope it comes out right after I hit it with the spray.
I've never had much luck using a brush and paint for weathering, but the powders give me the effect I want without going to an airbrush.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
m hortonJW, it's not the shade, it's the application. Remember, less is more,do it in layers. If you're using acrylics, thin them with windshield wash, amonia or just water. Also, get yourself a can of clear, flat finish from wallyworld. Take the windshields out and kill the shine. If this is to represent a second hand unit, that sees no or little maintenance,it should be faded and grimy. Try chalks also, blacks around doors and top, browns on trucks and fuel tanks, and white by battery boxes. Use the internet, get some ideas,get creative. Don't just sit on your *** and bemoan the critics, learn my boy, it's up to you. mike h.