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Looking for layout pics of walthers modern diesel house

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  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Denver, CO
  • 3,576 posts
Looking for layout pics of walthers modern diesel house
Posted by Motley on Tuesday, March 9, 2010 12:10 PM

I'm looking to get the walthers modern 3 track diesel house, does anybody have this on their layout? If so can I see some pics.

Thanks!

Michael

Michael


CEO-
Mile-HI-Railroad
Prototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989

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  • From: Crosby, Texas
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Posted by cwclark on Tuesday, March 9, 2010 1:30 PM

  Sorry I don't have the Walther's version. I use the one from Pike Stuff. They have a basic 2 stall kit but what's good about it is that you can add extra walls, stalls and even a machine shop from extra Pike Stuff kits.

     The building in the background is a Pike Stuff building. ( I don't take many pictures of it because this section of my layout isn't scenicked yet)    chuck  

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  • From: Gahanna, Ohio
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Posted by jbinkley60 on Tuesday, March 9, 2010 6:16 PM

Motley

I'm looking to get the walthers modern 3 track diesel house, does anybody have this on their layout? If so can I see some pics.

Thanks!

Michael

Here's a few:

 

I added my own interior and exterior lights.

 

Engineer Jeff NS Nut
Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/

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Posted by rclanger on Tuesday, March 9, 2010 8:42 PM

jbinkley60
Here's a few

 

Nicely done.

  • Member since
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Posted by river_eagle on Tuesday, March 9, 2010 9:53 PM

 

When in doubt, rule #1 applies  Central Missouri Railroad Association cmrraclub.com
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Posted by Motley on Tuesday, March 9, 2010 10:24 PM

Dang you guys are GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is some awesome detail work, and I love the lighting.

How long did it take you to build these? Also, how do you install the rail inside?

Michael


CEO-
Mile-HI-Railroad
Prototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989

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  • From: Gahanna, Ohio
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Posted by jbinkley60 on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 4:06 AM

Motley

Dang you guys are GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is some awesome detail work, and I love the lighting.

How long did it take you to build these? Also, how do you install the rail inside?

It took me about a week working off and on.  This kit has lots of parts.  Many of them are the numerous plastic risers which the rails sit on.  I stripped the rails off of some flex track and glued them to the risers.

 

Engineer Jeff NS Nut
Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/

  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 7:02 AM

Beautiful work.  It's interesting to compare the way the structure looks with turnouts for the stall tracks vs. the transfer table.  The night shots are particularly effective for this building, too.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

DJO
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • 88 posts
Posted by DJO on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 10:32 AM

thats a lot of talent. i'm debating betwen the old walters brik engine house or this newer style. you all making it real hard for me now!

how did you make the lighte blue?

DJ Route of the Zephyr
DJO
  • Member since
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Posted by DJO on Thursday, April 8, 2010 7:07 AM

I think im going for this kit insted of the brick is it a snap togther or do you glue it?

DJ Route of the Zephyr
DJO
  • Member since
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Posted by DJO on Friday, April 9, 2010 7:23 AM

sorry for being pesty and not super smart but does somebody know? if glue has to be used what kind is best?  i had a hard time with ambrod on a kit and want to use soemthing else. 

DJ Route of the Zephyr
  • Member since
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  • From: Maryville IL
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Posted by cudaken on Friday, April 9, 2010 7:30 AM

  I have not built the diesel house but have done a lot of Walther's kits. I use old fashion Testors model glue with no problems.

         Cuda Ken

I hate Rust

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  • From: Good ol' USA
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Sunday, April 11, 2010 5:58 PM

One helpful key to gluing structural walls that are perpendicular to each other is to secure them firmly using clamps. The glued surfaces should be checked for gapping or bulging and carefully adjusted if any misalignments occur.  Pliogrip and several other tool companies produce clamps that will hold your work firmly in place at 90 degrees or other angles, as the adhesive cures.

  I've used a variety of glues over the years. While I don't care for the smell, Ambroid works when properly applied, as does CA.  Although not necessary in every case, I usually scuff sand the surfaces being joined just to make sure that the adhesive will have a good bite.  

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by ho modern modeler on Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:42 PM

Great Photo's. I also want to "squeeze" in the Transfer Table some how so I can have a bigger complex with less approach. I have the shed painted and built but I want to do interior details. I've scratchbuilt and rtv'd some lockers and storage cabinets, workbenches and desk. I have welding and shop details from Faller, Preiser and Noch, barrels and crates from JL and a few leftover gas station details. The Overhead Crane (the yellow one, cut to fit the high part) is installed. Now from my research of photos of actual CSX shops, I am missing a few items:

Scissor Lifts

High Rolling Ladders

Paint Shop equipment

PS: yes I scratchbuilt a Paint Shop from 1 section of my new Rolling Mill

Pics to follow.....

Mine doesn't move.......it's at the station!!!

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Good ol' USA
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Monday, April 12, 2010 10:12 PM

River Eagle, outstanding job on the lighting and exterior weathering!  jbinkley60, I like that interior!

I have the older Walthers Car Shop brick building shop that I'm converting into a diesel locomotive service shop and your photos really stir up my enthusiasm.  Thanks for posting them,CaptainThumbs Up guys  

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 10:19 PM

awesome

Alton Junction

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Posted by OzRoscoe on Saturday, May 15, 2010 8:09 AM

 Engineer Jeff, I am having trouble fitting code 100 rail into the many risers, it is slightly too wide. What code track have you and others used?

To all, if I use Code 70 rail, which is narrower than Code 100, will it be too shallow? i.e. will trains still be able to roll over the aprons without derailing, before entering the shop?

 

Cheers,

Roscoe

 

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