I didn't see this begin so let's get started.
Even though my layout era is early 1950s I do have cars and locomotives that I usually run on our modular club layout, and this D8-40C, by Atlas, is one of my favorites..
Jarrell
Jarrell, that's a brute of a loco, nice looking track, too.
Reading Geep and Pennsy SW7 working the interchange. DJ.
This is the first time I have contributed to this tread and I must say the level of skill and detail that I see from so many on here is very very impressive to say the least. I do not have the luxury of having a permanent layout but I do operate as best as I can. Here are some photos from a recent operating session.
Up front on my auto carrier train is my Athearn SD 70 with an Athearn C44-9W Gray Ghost in tow.
Here is another shot of the two working down the other side of the main line.
Here is a shot of two trains meeting on the main line. One east bound an the other heading west bound. The east bound train is an intermodal train headed by an Atlas Dash8-40C coupled with a Kato C44-9W.
You all have inspired me to continue with this hobby and look forward to the day that I will have a permanent layout to work on.
Thanks Grampy, it's almost too big for my 22 inch curves but I still like it. I thought there for a while that no one else was going to participate the WPF this week, glad you came aboard
As always, I love to see your pictures and I've been meaning to ask you what your favorite method of securing 'ground foilage' to steep hillsides is? You do a great job of it.
Grampys Trains Jarrell, that's a brute of a loco, nice looking track, too. Reading Geep and Pennsy SW7 working the interchange. DJ.
I believe those are called "Black Widows"...is that correct? Very nice to both contributors. Nice image, DJ, as always.
Back in September, RR Cannuck favoured me by adding a stormy sky and some smoke to the original of the image shown here. Recently he was playing with Photo Shop and found that he could make a classic poster effect. He kindly sent this to me. I quite like it, and would like to publicly thank him for his efforts on this photo, and for all the improvements he has made to my images over the past two years.
-Crandell
Thanks, Jarrell. I use a mix of Structolite and Sculptamold for my scenery base. Because the Structolite has Perlite mixed in it, it has a rough texture. For ground foam, I use straight Elmer's white glue, for foliage, I use dots of WS Hob-E-Tac.
Thanks, Crandell. That is a very cool effect. DJ.
I put the finishing touches on my Prince Brothers Store
Using this photo as a guide
Also made some signs using this 1970 photo as a guide
At the time it was known as Monks Super Mkt
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
Here are a few cars of mine:
This is an Athearn Car Kit, where I added a Cal-Scale Cushion Underframe and painted and decaled the car using Herald King Decals.
Model Die Casting Kit, Painted and decaled using Herald King Decals, this was the original as delivered paint scheme.
Same car but decaled with WP's new Stylized Feather River Route Herald. Herald King Decals.
Regards
Rick
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
Looks like another GREAT WPF!!!
I will add to the NS pictures.
Its just a little dirty, dusty, and some "chipped" paint (on the front).
"Rust, whats not to love?"
Crandall, you inspired me to go up to my attic and dig out this old poster I picked up back in 1987 when it was new!
Nice work, all. Finally got back to and finished (almost) the 20+ year old Roundhouse 0-6-0T kit. Still need to install the LED headlights; just realized that I ordered all the parts except the darned diodes! Anyway, the engine creeps along at a crawl - a bit noisy but hopefully will quiet down as it breaks in. Also finished decalling and weathering another 50 ton Athearn hopper.
Chuck
Grand River & Monongah Railroad and subsidiary Monongah Railway
Tyler, it's a great poster!!
RR Canuck also made this one up for me, in the same style as yours, but using another image.
A GP18 out in the country on a summer day...
Hey Chuck,
So, that's how old my 0-6-0 is! I've got one just like it, not quite as far along. It pulls like a mule but it hasn't run as well since before it was painted. I'm still working on that puzzle. I was going to build a constant intensity headlight for it using a LED and a solid state voltage regulator but recently I saw an article on the web where the author suggested using LED's instead of low voltage incandescents in the old diode lighting scheme (a la John Allen and others). Is that your intent? If that's the case, I'd like to know how it turns out, because the simplicity of that idea appeals to my inner Mongo. Anyway, nicely done loco. You and all the other regular posters of this forum are a constant inspiration. No matter what the skill level shown, I always admire the sincerely done work of any devoted hobbyist.
Lou
Messy, messy messy!
Plaster patching
An experimental fluid made of alcohol, baby powder, scale gravel and tan paint used to represent crushed stone for the new road.
Lewis and Clark Park by the new road. Where did Lewis and Clark go?
Yay they are found!
It turns out they had to vacate the park due to plastering.
Ill try and clean up the mess
~G4
19 Years old, modeling the Cowlitz, Chehalis, and Cascade Railroad of Western Washington in 1927 in 6X6 feet.
I finished painting the centerbeam flat I built and started making some loads for it. Only one side is done right now. I'm making them out of 1/4" x 1/2" balsa wood, 0.015" styrene, and 1/32" printer's tape.
Lou,
I was originally thinking about using the circuit that uses a 5 volt regulator but this little brute creeps along at just 2.5 to 3 volts (which is great) but that means I'm not going to see any headlights at that speed. I saw another circuit without a regulator but requires a diode/capacitor network to keep the LEDs from flickering due to momentary voltage cuts at the wheels and rail junction. Kind of at a loss for the moment. Anyone have a good LED headlight circuit they'd like to share?
Fresh out of the paint shop, RS11 number 363
What's that you say? The Monon never actually owned any RS11's? Well, it should have, so by golly, now it does!
Jim
"I am lapidary but not eristic when I use big words." - William F. Buckley
I haven't been sleeping. I'm afraid I'll dream I'm in a coma and then wake up unconscious. -Stephen Wright
Soo Line U30 C phase II by Atlas coming round the bend....
Chuck,
Bob Pease from National Semiconductor did a circuit using a LM334 low drop out regulator that I use to drive a LED, It turns the LED on at about 0.65 volts above whatever the LED needs. So you should be able to get a white LED to light up as your loco starts to move.
You need to be a bit of an electronics junkie to work out the component values for your circuit. I used the circuit in figure 2. and set it up to provide 20ma to the LED (ZL in the figure)
http://electronicdesign.com/article/analog-and-mixed-signal/what-s-all-this-current-limiter-stuff-anyhow-4703.aspx
cheers
Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)
Driline Soo Line U30 C phase II by Atlas coming round the bend....*snip*
*snip*
Please pretty please tell me that hillside and the trees on and behind it were added to the scene in Photoshop! Once that SOO locomotive is weathered from its spotless white, it'll be impossible to tell whether that scene is a model or the real thing!
Wikious, how did you build that centerbeam flat? I need a fleet of them for my furniture factory. Send me a PM though please, so as not to clog up this thread.
It's a couple weeks after Christmas and last night I managed to go through and take pics of all the new additions to the fleet. Also got a package from a fellow on another forum that had two boxcars in it (both 60')
Just a basic 50' FGE insulated boxcar. Reporting marks are PPU. Will be weathered and maybe patched.
Another FGE 50' boxcar. Love the paint job on this one, so it will be lightly weathered.
This boxcar is going to be one heck of a project. Plans include fading the paint, lotta rust, lotta grime, and a patchout
These 53' Evans plug-doors are also going to be weathered. The BCRail will be lightly weathered, while the other three will recieve varying degrees of weathering.
And finally the 60 footers. The NS will be weathered, while I will leave the Atlas car untouched, as it is my favorite company and it would be a shame to ruin it as it commemorates their 50th anniversary.
not much work going to be done on the layout this weekend, as I have to memorize a monologue for English class.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
TrainManTyDriline Soo Line U30 C phase II by Atlas coming round the bend....*snip* Please pretty please tell me that hillside and the trees on and behind it were added to the scene in Photoshop! Once that SOO locomotive is weathered from its spotless white, it'll be impossible to tell whether that scene is a model or the real thing!
Better?
No. Photoshop was not used. That is my actual background. And it goes all around my layout. This is not just a module. How do you like my painting skills?
This site www.awrr.com/ConstantLighting.html has a circuit using LED's but no capacitor. That would be a good addition. I have seen the poop sheet on the LM317 solid state VR and I think it'll go down to about 3 volts with the right combination of resistors. Woud that work? Radio Shack sells the regulator for about 3 bucks I think. Another way might be to add a resistor across the motor terminals to raise it's starting voltage a little and give the light some head start.
Hi folks. This will probably be my last posting for a while - off to Asia again in a week. This week I revived a vintage Atlas loco - I'm guessing circa 1970 or so - made in Austria if that helps peg its age. Anyway, after extensive servicing she runs pretty well now. But, since I don't model Santa Fe, I decided to break out the airbrush and see if I could find it a home on my CN / CP layout. I haven't airbrushed in ages, so it took a while to get back into the swing of things. Anyway, here's the before and after - presto chango. I think this is an SD18 - CN didn't have any of these, but its affiliates did. Next step - weathering.
And Crandell, thanks for the kind words. Cheers.
BEFORE....
AFTER...
DrilineTrainManTyDriline Soo Line U30 C phase II by Atlas coming round the bend....*snip* Please pretty please tell me that hillside and the trees on and behind it were added to the scene in Photoshop! Once that SOO locomotive is weathered from its spotless white, it'll be impossible to tell whether that scene is a model or the real thing! Better?*snip*No. Photoshop was not used. That is my actual background. And it goes all around my layout. This is not just a module. How do you like my painting skills?
Is it a 3d part of your layout or a photo backdrop? Either way, impressive! You had me fooled!
Thanks for the link. I guess I'd better dig out the old circuit breadboard and junk box of parts and do some testing before I get carried away with trying to stuff a bunch of parts into the cab of that 0-6-0T. Not a whole lot of room in there. Incidently, since I have a drill press, I elected to bore a hole in the boiler weight from front to back, for the headlight wires. Another option would be to route a shallow groove along the top of the weight, deep enough for the wires. Will post my final results for the headlight when finished.
Chris
Lancaster, CA
Check out my railroad at: Buffalo and Southwestern
Photos at:Flicker account
YouTube:StellarMRR YouTube account
I've been working on extending the mainline another 27' .
Before:
After:
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel