OK, I finally had a Proto 1000 F-3 motor has gone bad. It has ate two decoders, I pulled the motor, tested on DC and it ran. I stalled the motor, let go of the flywheel and would not turn till I spun the motor.
I normally would not ask this part of the question, but with Darth Santa Fe posting about repairing old motors. Is there a affordable to repair the motor? Darth, are you there?
I all ready know more than likely I will need a new motor. I am happy with my other Protos, low power draw and good pulling power. Has anyone bought a replacement factory Proto motor, if so what was the cost? I remoter some of my old Athearns and the motors where only $10.00 each. My guess Walther's will not be that kind.
I looked on the Walther site and did not find the number for the services number. Anyone have it?
With being happy with Protos motors as a whole, would you buy a stock one, or after market one?
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Sounds like the motor's got a dead spot. Sometimes, this can be fixed by cleaning up the commutator and brushes. I've opened one of these motors before, and it's not difficult to do (as long as you have a puller to take the flywheel off).
If the motor really is bad, I believe this motor is the same one used in Proto 1000 diesels. If you want to use a different one, any 18x33mm motor with 2mm double shafts should fit (like the Mashima motor sold by A Line, or possibly Kato's HO motor).
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Ken,
Given the cost of a new motor and the time it would take to get it installed and working right, it might be easier to just buy another unit and switch the chassis out.
Mark Gosdin
Darth, I do not have a flywheel puller. Guess I can just pry it off, and tips on doing so? Bigger question, if I can get it off, get the motor running. How do I use to glue on the flywheel again. Super Glue be OK?
I do have a Mashima motor from a Front Line engine, I was hoping to use it for one of my BL 2's. I all so need to pull out a PK 2000 E-6 that will not track. See if the motors are the same.
By the way Darth, I had to open the Dash 8 you fixed for me 4 years ago, time for a lube job. The drive shaft you made is a work of art!
Thanks for all the answers as well.
Ken
If you don't have a puller, you may be able to pry the flywheel off by putting even pressure on each side with two flat-blade screwdrivers. The P1K flywheels are held on by glue, so once the glue is broken, it should come off pretty easy. Super glue should work just fine for holding the flywheel on (it's what I use).
I just gave my P1K DL-109 a motor tune-up (it was getting squeeky), and it is the exact motor sold by Micro-Mark. A good cleaning of the commutator and a quick check of brush position and tension, and the thing runs like new! Your P2K E6 probably uses the Athearn clone motor, like my P2K E7 and SD60 do.
That driveshaft I put in your DASH 8 continues to amaze me! And all this time, I thought my job had been a little sloppy. But it just keeps right on going, it sounds like!
cudaken I looked on the Walther site and did not find the number for the services number. Anyone have it?
Third box down: http://www.walthers.com/exec/mailcustserv
Thanks the link to there phone number! At lass, they do not have any left.
David B, your input is welcomed. One of the reasons I started this post is because I don't know much about replacing motors and the quality of the motors out there. Direct fit is prefer, I have a idea how to make other motors fit, but none of the parts. No extra drive shafts or tubing. Plus, money is tight.
Thanks again for all the answers.
One of the things you might want to consider when replacing a motor (besides the size issue) is the motor RPM at full speed. Any large change in motor speed while using the same gearing will result in the engine running either faster or slower than similar engines of the same make. Of course, you can always get involved with the speed curve CVs of the decoder you happen to install to compensate for this.
Why not replace the chassis/motor with a Stewart one? Fits perfectly, runs swell!
Glenn in Tulsa
Hum, a Stewart chassis will fit a Proto shell? That could kill two birds with one stone. I happen to have a Stewart F-9 that the B is a dummy. I been wanting to power it for longer drags. (A with the dummy B will still drag 24 cars up my grade) With speed matching and shell swapping I could have the best of both worlds.
I have 4 F-3 Monon's, 1 A's and 2 B's. Been thinking about making a B into a A. Make the one with the bad motor a dummy B. Thanks for the idea.
The Stewart chassis is pretty expensive, so a new motor would be a lot cheaper if the old one has actually gone bad.
Here's a list of motors that will fit.Igarashi (used by BLI, Rivarossi, Hobbytown, etc.)MashimaKatoMicro-Mark (same one used in Proto 1000)
These are all the drop-in or near drop-in fit motors I can find. The Buehler motor sold by Bowser may also fit.
HO Stewart Parts > Stewart Parts > Bowser Motor - Buehler
This would be my choice #1300 & #200, if necessary good, cheap, reliable and will pull stumps like a Missouri mule
cudaken Hum, a Stewart chassis will fit a Proto shell? That could kill two birds with one stone. I happen to have a Stewart F-9 that the B is a dummy. I been wanting to power it for longer drags. (A with the dummy B will still drag 24 cars up my grade) With speed matching and shell swapping I could have the best of both worlds. I have 4 F-3 Monon's, 1 A's and 2 B's. Been thinking about making a B into a A. Make the one with the bad motor a dummy B. Thanks for the idea. Ken
My three "Stewart" F's - A,B,B - are on Stewart, Proto 1000 and Athearn frames respectively.
The Proto 1000 frame came from a F3a and went under a Stewart F3b with only minor shaving of plastic on the body due to clearance issues. Runs like a champ.
The Athearn chassis is from a dummy RTR F unit, it fit fine under the second Stewart F3b once I trimmed back the tabs above the fuel tank.
Thanks again for all the great answers!
David B, thanks for the link of the Kato motor. Would that motor be a good pick for my old Proto 2000 BL2's? Shaft sizes is the real question. Love to get them up and going again.
The Kato motor has the same shaft size as the Proto motors (2mm). The Kato shafts are a little longer, so you may need to cut some shaft off for a perfect fit. If you have a Dremel (or similar) and cutting disks, it's a very easy process.
The Kato motor is smaller than the BL2 motor, but it should still be a pretty easy fit. When a motor is too small (as far as height), I like to take A Line stick-on lead, glue the metal side to the frame, and mount the motor on the foam tape on the other side. The tape on the lead is the same as A Line's motor mounting tape, so the motor should hold for a long time, and most of any vibrations should be absorbed. The stick-on weights come in a few different thicknesses, so you shouldn't have to worry about it being to tall or too short.
Darth, thanks again. You will be getting a PM in the next day or so. With the 1:1 car tools I have, cutting the shafts to make them shorter is not a problem!