I have an opportunity to add a Proto 1000 RS-2 to my livery. My previous purchases have been limited to Atlas and Athearn offerings, so I wanted to get the group's opinion on the mecanics of this particular model as offered by LL. I'm not so concerned about the level of detail, as I generally tweek to proto photos anyway. I am, however interested in the reliability, ease of DCC conversion, and overall running characteristics (ability to creep, noise level) as compared to Athearn and Atlas models.
Thanks for your input.
I've got a Proto 1000 RSC-3. It's a similar hood type. It has 6 axles, while I think the RS-2 is a 4-axle unit.
I love this engine, but I'd probably love any old Alco RS. The mechanism is solid and reliable. It's also very quiet. With full 12-wheel pickup, it never stalls.
Adding DCC was trivial. I added LED headlights as well, again an easy job. There is plenty of room inside for a decoder. Later, I replaced the Digitrax 123 with a Soundtraxx LLC. I had to do some cutting and shaving of the interior weight to fit in the speaker enclosure, but it wasn't too bad. There is more space under the hood than you find in many of today's models.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasley I love this engine, but I'd probably love any old Alco RS. The mechanism is solid and reliable. It's also very quiet. With full 12-wheel pickup, it never stalls. Adding DCC was trivial. I added LED headlights as well, again an easy job. There is plenty of room inside for a decoder. Later, I replaced the Digitrax 123 with a Soundtraxx LLC. I had to do some cutting and shaving of the interior weight to fit in the speaker enclosure, but it wasn't too bad. There is more space under the hood than you find in many of today's models.
It sounds like the mechanism has characteristics closer to that of the Atlas than the Athearn? How's the weight?
Thanks again.
Reformed Grownup It sounds like the mechanism has characteristics closer to that of the Atlas than the Athearn? How's the weight?
I don't have any recent Athearns or Atlas engines to compare it against. I have a couple of Proto 2K GP9s. There is more room inside the RSC-3 than inside the geeps.
The weight on the engine is fine. It pulls very well.
Well, all I can say is I once owned two matching (Different cab numbers) Atlas Silver series RS-1's for B&O with 4 axles each.
They were absolutely the finest and best analog 12 volt engines I have ever encountered outside of a show. They literally would not stop creeping because the power pack did not shut off the juice all the way. And it's craZy when you consider the very bottom of the throttle. Stop, is stop... but not on my worn out pack.
I made mistake of putting DCC into them. I should never have done that because the decoders I used were missing certain features that I was used to from QSI decoders now availible.
The hardest thing about installation is finding room for anything.
Enough about hard or difficult. I will give Atlas a big thumbs up... even though I have not operated 1000 series engines.
I have 14 Proto engines and they are top notch. All of my newer 2000's have a decoder plug. My PK 1000's F 3's where DCC ready, my Erie Built PK 1000's had to be hard wired.
Only repairs I have had to do where on my 20 year old PK 2000 BL2's, cracked center gears. Other than that all I have done to the PK's is oil them up onces in 3 years.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I only glance at these units but,IMHO they look to be on par with Atlas and Athearn RS3s detail wise.Following P1Ks track record I would say they are smooth runners.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
P1K RS-2's are fine models. They appear to be quite accurate in appearance and have a very quiet and smooth drive. The paint jobs also appear to be of typical Proto quality (which is good).
However, they are missing detail parts like most P1K's. These can be purchased from companies like Custom Finishing, with the most obvious being the curved grab irons unique to RS-2's and RS-3's: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/247-205
Also, the ones I have seen do not have a DCC plug. They have the traces on the board that need to be cut and solder pads that you connect the decoder to. Use an N-scale decoder, and they seem to work fine.
These do have very good slow speed performance, but they are quite slow in the top speed dept. I'd guess they only go around 50 smph or so. Maybe 60. They are remarkably slower than Atlas or Athearn locos in top speed, and are therefore tough to speed match to these brands...unless you want everything that slow.
I operate 3 RS-2's on a regular basis. Two are fine, with no problems at all. The 3rd RS-2 has an electrical problem that I haven't fixed. It appears to run fine, then will stop for no reason and go dead. After a while it might start up again and be fine for a while. Then it will go dead again. I even replaced the decoder and no dice. But the other two run like champs. Figure that...
If you want to compare these to Atlas and Athearn RS-3's, the P1K RS-2's are more like Atlas than Athearn.
Paul A. Cutler III*******************Weather Or No Go New Haven*******************
Thank you all for your valued input, I now feel confident that my money will be well spent.
Happy Holidays to all!
There are two versions of the Proto 1000 RS-2.
The early version was sold under the Life-Like brand name and has an open frame motor just like that found in Atlas Alco switchers.
The later version, sold under the Walthers brand name, has a flat can motor similar to an Atlas RS-3 and also has a 9 pin connector for a DCC decoder.
I have two of the Walthers RS-2s, and they run just as good as an Atlas RS-3.
If you can get the Can motor do it. Open frames are good too but Cans is where it is at... for the last... 30 years and counting.
Here's a shot of my Proto 1000 RSC-3.
I've weathered the engine, and added crewmembers. It now has DCC and a Soundtraxx LC decoder. Otherwise, it's as it came from the box. Yeah, I've got to fix that handrail where it goes into the cab.