Total New Guy here! Lots of questions

[AllenB]

I'm 43 and just getting back into MRR after...well since I was 12 probably. Anyway, just bought 10 cars (70's era Roundhouse and Athearn cars new in box for 25 bucks!) That kinda got me thinking....maybe I'll do a train set. So...couple of questions:

1. What type of track are people using these days? Any differences in performance from the brass and steel?

2. Any cheap layout software out there. I was looking at some for 50 bucks and up! 

3. My plan is to buy all used trains. How would one clean an engine that has been sitting around for several years?

4. Any recommended transformers out there? I remember as a kid having one that had a "pulse" mode where you could creep the engine. It was great. 

That's about it for now.

Thanks!!!!

Allen

[mononguy63]

H Allen, and

I can answer the easy stuff for you:

Don't use brass track. If you have some, don't use it anyway. Get nickel siver track There's good sectional track with a plastic roadbed molded on that would make a nice way to get your feet wet.

Go to Atlas' website and get their free layout design program. It's not super-sophisticated but the price is certainly right!

MRC makes nice DC power packs. I have an ancient gold MRC pack (complete with the 'pulse" switch) still in service on my layout. You can get a very good Tech II or Tech IV for a reasonable price on Ebay.

Other will surely chime in with great advice. This is a good place to learn alot. I know I have.

Jim

[selector]

Welcome, Allen.  There are still a great many happy users of DC operations (Direct Current) with transformers and block control in the hobby.  There may always be....who knows.

However, do you remember the 8-track stereo tapes?  Well, just as we have moved beyond them for the huge majority of people, an increasingly large number of us are using the modern CD, or what we know as DCC control...Digital Command Control.  Each locomotive has a microchip decoder installed that meters out voltage to the motors (still DC current...) and also control lighting and sounds if you have a sound decoder.  Instead of masses of wiring and toggles or selectors, you need only be careful to gap at reversing loops and such where shorts could happen, but you run the trains, themselves, without having to reach for a toggle.

You may be able to convert all or some of your used engines, but it is sometimes a real bear to get it right.  In some instances, you may be far further ahead to just buy new engines with warranties an decoders already installed at the factory.

Something to chew on.

-Crandell

[tgindy]

mononguy63

Don't use brass track. If you have some, don't use it anyway. Get nickel siver track.

If you do have some older brass track...

Use the brass rails for gondola/flatcar loads and/or to a railyard stack of rails, after painting the same color, as you paint your new nickle silver rails.  The old ties can be used the same way, or as needed under soldered track joints.

You never know when the old stuff can come in handy.

P.S.:  MRC (Model Rectifier Corporation) has always had consistent quality when it comes to Tech Powerpacks for DC, and now Prodigy for DCC.

[ARTHILL]

Welcome

I just returned 4 yerrs ago. Some things I learned

1. No brass track.

2. In our area there are many Train flea markets, great place to get started..

3. In our area there is a Division of the National Model Railraod Association. It is a great place to meet people who will help,

4. Consider DCC. It is what I always wished playing with trains would be like. I started back with DC and wasted some money and a lot of time.

5. Read a lot of old magazines until you know what you want.

6. Don't use 18 inch curves. You will eventually want trains that would like it. Don't ask me how I know. I wiush I would have used 24 inch and a double track main.

7. Keep asking specific questions as you go along. There are some real helpful people here.

[cudaken]

 Starting with used engines, get a couple of new one first. I am glad I bought used engines, learned how to repair them and later the new ones when they had problems. If I had not had a few new ones, I may have gave up on the hobby while trying to figure out there problems.

 If you go with used rolling stock I would stick with Athearns and there like. Bachmann, Life Like and Tyco need a lot of work to get them to track right. There biggest problem is there plastic axles and then there truck mounted couplers. The plastic axles will wrap causing derailment problems, ask me how I know! I have around 70 of them. Again, in the long run I glad I bought mine, I have learned how to make them free wheeling and track well. But till then, I was ready to give up.

 Here at the site, lot of people will tell you what to do, but not explain why you need to do it. Make sure you ask a lot of questions and if you do not understand why you need to ask why! In my case it was the plastic axle problem. I was told I need metal axles to stop my derailments, but not why I need them. If I was told to flip the car up side down and spin the wheel set, see the wobble, that the problem I would have under stood.

 Good luck, and read a lot.

             Cuda Ken

[Phoebe Vet]

 If I was told to flip the car up side down and spin the wheel set, see the wobble, that the problem I would have under stood.

Ken:

That is one of the best pieces of advise for the new guy buying used cars that I have seen in a long time.

Allen:

Since you seem to have a good understanding of DC, get one of the many books on DCC.  After becoming familiar with both systems, and asking any questions that come up, you can decide which way you want to go BEFORE you invest any money.

In here you will find many supporters of each system.

[IVRW]

1) Nickel plate, from Atlas, the best track maker

2) Dont do track software. Go to the basement and fiddle around. Doodle on napkins and adapt it to your train table.

3) No used locomotives, they usually stink. Buy the locomotives new. Everything else is okay to get used.

4) Try Digitrax or MRC, the two best out there. Only do DCC, it might seem scary, but its not, and the results are great.

Hope that answers your questions.

[dstarr]

1.  Nickel silver track is preferred over brass because it has a white shine that looks like steel, and the oxides are electrically conductive so trains run better over dirty track.  There is some steel and aluminum snap track out there.  Steel is difficult to solder and rusts.  Aluminum is impossible to solder.  I would do nickel silver if at all possible.  If a stash of brass track at a good price jumps out at you, it's usable so long as you clean it periodically.  

   Code 83 track has become popular because it is lower and closer to scale size.  There is plenty of code 100 track still out there and it works just fine.  I laid my entire layout in code 100 because a large supply became available for free.  If you paint the sides of the rail in rail brown, the track looks much closer to scale.  Code 100 track painted looks smaller than plain shiny code 83, and looks good enough for me.

2.  Atlas has a free track layout program that works just fine with snap track.  I laid out my track plan with a pencil, an eraser, and squared paper. 

3.  I like used stuff from train shows and yard sales.  Overhaul of a beat up used locomotive starts off by taking it apart, as far as you can or as far as you dare.  Clean and polish the wheels and electrical contacts.  Remove old grease and lube, clean and relube sparingly.  Despite a lot of talk about "plastic compatable lubes" I still use Three-in-One oil and Vaseline and no plastic has been harmed.  Clean commutator with GooGone on a Qtip.  Keep oil off the commutator and don't oil motor bearings so much that they drip oil onto the commutator.   For steamers check for binding in the rods and valve gear by rolling the engine back and forth with the motor removed.    Renew any frayed wiring.  Reassemble.  Pray before applying power. 

4.  MRC is the name in power packs ("transformers').  The electronics in MRC power packs does the pulse power thing and has a good transistor throttle that makes all locomotives run much better than the plain rheostat circuits ever did.

 

 

 

 

[Flashwave]

IVRW: I must respectfully disagree with 2-4.

Some work beter with the software first, to get an idea. Especially if we can;t draw a decent curve. Computer plans will come up slightly off form reality, but again with RTS, it's a free way to get ideas out of your head and be able to see it all connect

Some people like tinkering with used locomotives, gives them smething to be proud of. It's not my cup of tea, but I've seen some awesome locomotives come out of what would be considered a junker. Also, AHM is the only not brass maker of the Krauss Maffei over here. ANd they're out of business.Rivaorssis are nice lookers and good runners too. (Seen the Hiawatha?) The only way to get them, is used.

MRC has a BAD reputation in DCC. It's great for DC, but of the two, go Digitrax, IF you want to go DCC.  Tom White (Resident Bridge and Rio Grande BIG POWER nut, goes by twhite) is DC, and loves it. DCC is good, if you want to go that way. If it's just you, you'll probably run one train, and DCC isn't needed. I say that because Digi is one of the most popular, and you may end up with a club or an opportunity o run with one, and Odds are good that they run Digitrax. DCC can also run a DC train.  SOme members here also reccomend NCE. I've not used them, so I can't say for sure.

As far as cleaning the engine, the best thing I can offer is cleaning the wheels. DO that by placing a paper towel with 98% Iso alcohol on a piece of track. Drive one truck over the engine, hold it in place, and run the wheels with power coming from the rear set. this should get most f the gunk off. turn the engine and repeat. for non-driven pickups, say for steamers getting power through the tenders, use a small brush and turn the wheel slowly with the finger  

[ratled]

Check your PM in box

ratled