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Indoor G scale layout

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  • Member since
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  • From: Ontario
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Indoor G scale layout
Posted by da_kraut on Monday, October 12, 2009 11:11 AM

 Hello,

I was speaking to someone who plans on building a G scale layout much the same way an HO or N scale layout is build.  Due to the weight of the locomotives and cars I how would you construct the foundation for the roadbed?  On my layout I used 1/2 inch plywood and supported it every 12 inches, but the weight issue is not there unlike in G scale.  My thinking was to create a spline support system made out of laminated sheets of 1/2 inch plywood.

What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks

Frank

"If you need a helping hand, you'll find one at the end of your arm."

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Posted by dgwinup on Monday, October 12, 2009 11:18 AM

I have limited experience with G Scale.  What I have found, though, is that, although G scale has good weight to it, it's still not heavy enough to cause deflection problems with thicker plywood, 3/4" or thicker.

You will still need framework supports for the plywood.  Even 1x2" lumber, glued and/or screwed to the plywood, will provide enough support to prevent sagging.

Hope this helps.

Darrell, quiet...for now

Darrell, quiet...for now
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 12, 2009 11:38 AM

 Frank,

G scale equipment weighs less than one would expect it to. 1/2" roadbed, supported every foot or so should be just fine - that´s what I did in my better days.

Generally speaking, we have a tendency to build our benchwork to strong and heavy, in fear of warping, Careful planning of supports does the job better than too thick a material!

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Posted by fwright on Monday, October 12, 2009 12:42 PM

IIRC, the span tables in Westcott's book on benchwork were based on deflections of 1/250" (0.004") with 250lb point loads - falling, leaning, or standing on the benchwork.  I've never of any problems with benchwork built in accordance with those tables and/or Westcott's recommendations.  5 ply 1/2" plywood should be good with supports at 16" or closer, IIRC.  House flooring only requires 3/4" plywood (cheap stuff) on 16" supports - and I don't think even a solid lead G locomotive or car comes close to that kind of loading.  Smile

have fun with your layout

Fred W

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Posted by BATMAN on Monday, October 12, 2009 1:11 PM

 Being a guy who tends to overbuild things I went Hmmmm when I read your post as I started contemplating how I would build it. I realized that I can get up and climb on my HO benchwork, all 190LBS of me and it doesen't even flinch. It's 2" foam on 1 x 4s. So build it out of 1 x 4s. If you build it well it should be all you need. As far as spline goes that requires more thought. I might take a look at the plastic pipe method just because of the width of the track and weight involved. Doing spline the same way as you would in HO would just be a non starter in my books. Maybe back to cookie cutter method. Strength is not the issue, flex is. If it is put together well even light materials should suffice as long as it doesn't move. Just my My 2 cents.

 

                                                                      Brent

 

                                                                    Brent

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

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Posted by pastorbob on Monday, October 12, 2009 3:30 PM

I do G Gauge outdoors, quite a difference between it and the HO in the basement, but I would bet that the benchwork I have for HO would handle the G also, except not wide enough in some places.  My outdoor railroad uses all USA brand diesels, the Alco PA is probably the heaviest, plus I have F units, and four axle GP units, none of which are excessively heavy. 

On the other hand, some of the steam that is sold is really heavy, but again, it would probably be able to run on well built layouts for HO if the track was right.  I have some streamlined passenger cars that are hefty, but the freight cars are nothing.

Bob

Bob Miller http://www.atsfmodelrailroads.com/
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Posted by cacole on Monday, October 12, 2009 4:35 PM

 I have G scale trains, and the half-inch plywood supported every 12 inches would be adequate to support even a cast metal locomotive because normally the wheelbase on a G scale loco is very long so the weight will be spread over a wider area..

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Posted by wjstix on Monday, October 12, 2009 4:53 PM

G scale stuff isn't all that heavy, unless maybe you're running live steam with all-brass cars?? Most cars are plastic so they aren't all that heavy.

FWIW on an O scale layout around 25 years ago I built benchwork following Linn Westcott's book, using 1x2s for L-girders and 1x3s, with 2x2 legs and a 3/4" plywood top. I did the main benchwork in several 4' by 8' sections and tested each one by getting up on top of it and walking around. At the time I was a tad over 300 lbs, so I'm guessing if it can hold me with no issues it could hold just about any model train you'd want to do. Smile

BTW it's not that uncommon for folks to have indoor G gauge layouts....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15183318@N03/2442091784/

Stix
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Posted by tomikawaTT on Monday, October 12, 2009 5:56 PM

As the previous posters have said, if you build to Westcott's specifications (250# point loads!) the same L girder benchwork used for HO will support just about anything short of 1:16 live steam.  I would not hesitate to remove my HOj plywood-and-extruded-foam subgrade and substitute something more suited to G-scale clearances on my present steel-stud benchwork.

Of course, I'd have to change scales first - and that just isn't about to happen.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

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Posted by da_kraut on Monday, October 12, 2009 6:39 PM

 Thank you for all of the replies.  I will look into the Westcott method of construction for my own future HO layout as well.  The input from everybody is greatly appreciated and will be forwarded to my friend as well.

Frank

"If you need a helping hand, you'll find one at the end of your arm."

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