Metal Wheelsets vs Plastic Wheelsets

[dickiee]

Could someone please give me a semi-detailed explanation why metal wheelsets are better than plastic. I've been out of Model Railroading for about 20 yrs. My old stuff mostly has plastic wheelsets and I would like to change them if I understood why. Thanks to all who respond.

Richard

[RhB_HJ]

Plastic wheels abrade quite a bit on metal track, that leaves a nice dust which then mixes with whatever moisture and house dust is in the environment and voilà you have more goonk on the track.

[Anonymous]

Hi
I try and get as many metal wheels on the track as possable.
I even whent to the point of destroying collectors value on old stock I have to get metal wheels fitted.
While it will not get rid of the need to clean track it will cut it down in direct proportion to the number of metal wheels in operation.
the plastic wheels leave a load of insulating gunk on the rails which must be cleaned off
regularly to retain running reliabilaty.
regards John

[DonaldAgne]

Metal wheels sound better, too.

[IRONROOSTER]

Metal wheels also add some weight and it is very low. I like the wheelsets from NWSL.
Enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

Metal wheels tend to keep the track cleaner - in much the same way as the real thing works (regularly used track is always shiny on top). They are also usually more concentric, resulting in less wobbling and uneven running (Athearn cars seem particularly vulnerable to this - I have a 3-unit drawbar double stack that became a far better runner after fitting metal wheelsets). Metal wheels also seem to reduce the rolling resistance of cars - a loco that previously struggled to haul a train is far happier after I fitted these wheelsets. Finally, they sound nice - you get the clicking over rail joints, the grinding on tighter curves (I was inspired to try to achieve this after riding a preserved industrial line in Bristol City Docks - long 4-wheel brake vans on tight tracks make some interesting noises!), etc. Personally, I use Proto metal wheels, mainly because they're easily available and fit Athearn cars easily.

[Anonymous]

From SW Michigan.
Be extremly cautious because of the variables and varieties involed.
There are 28",33"36" & 38"
http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/002/197xvpbs.asp

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wheelsets.html

CAUTION: Not all aftermarket replacement sets have the same axle LENGTH.

www.reboxx.com is a big player in this market and sells wheel sets in multiple lengths
since manufacturer stock wheels vary from model car manufacturer to car manufacturer.
Reboxx sets are all 0.088 wide versus more common 0.110.

Other suppliers are below plus a few more in the Walthers' reference book.

The following axle measurements have been furnished by Master Modeler Nigel.
P2K-1.008, Intermountain - 1.013, Kadee 1.018 and there's more.

Another consideration when upgrading is to use the truck tuner.
www.micromark.com item# 82838, just type it in the item box, then click on the description.

Bottom Line: Greater free rolling ability=longer trains and cleaner track and when cleaning
track try out MAAS, a 2 ounce metal paste cleaner/polisher. Also , automotive polishing compound as a substitute.

Happy railroading.

[n2mopac]

I know that metal wheel set are better, but I have a large number of cars with plastic wheels as I am on a limited train budget. Yes the metal wheels stay somewhat cleaner, but overall I get good performance out of the plastic wheels. They don't really get that dirty and I have little derailment problem.
Ron

[orsonroy]

There's a VERY noticeable difference in track cleanliness when you discard all plastic wheelsets. On my last layout, I used whichever wheels came with the car, usually plastic. I had to clean the track almost every time I used the layout. I've since switched to nothing but metal wheelsets (virtually all P2K) and I haven't cleaned my track in the year my basic mainline has been up (225 feet long)

[cacole]

A couple of years ago, I read a pseudo-scientific study of plastic vs. metal wheelsets. One thing mentioned in that item was that plastic wheels tend to generate static electricity, which attracts dirt. This dirt, in turn, winds up on your track and requires more frequent cleaning than with metal wheelsets.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

A couple of years ago, I read a pseudo-scientific study of plastic vs. metal wheelsets. One thing mentioned in that item was that plastic wheels tend to generate static electricity, which attracts dirt. This dirt, in turn, winds up on your track and requires more frequent cleaning than with metal wheelsets.

[:D]YUP!!![:D]

[Anonymous]

Another thing to consider is the use of metal trucks as well as the wheels.

I was running plactic wheels and truck for a while before I recently upgraded to metal wheels on all my rolling stock and metal trucks with springs non most of them.

The difference is like night and day in ride quality and also in the cleanliness of the track.

And when you run DCC a clean track makes you a happy engineer. A diry track is not good. I was having to clean my track once a month ( three smokers in this house plus losts of pust and pollen) and now I only clean it abotu once every 6 months, I am about to try the radio shack tuner cleaner method that supposedly allows you to only clean things once a year or so once I redo my layout.

[CBQ_Guy]

I've never had the inclination to jump on the metal wheelset band wagon. I and other model railroaders in the area use the wheels that come with the models or upgrade to Kadee's. Layouts run fine and track cleaning is just considered to be a part of regular layout maintenance as it's always been.

Personally, I don't want my cars all that freerolling as I have no desire to built my layout to such a tight standard using a laser level and GPS to ensure level so my uncoupled cars won't roll away!

[Anonymous]

IMO, generally speaking, quality rolling stock should not have to be up graded.
Now I will share with you my Walthers HO Budd Passenger stock sets first run cars.
My Atlas Dash 8-32BW would only pull three cars on level track because of the axle drag so I had to upgrage to IMs if I wanted to get the full consist out of the station.

What a learning experience for a discounted $24.00 car.

[dickiee]

I would like to thank ALL responders to my inquiry....the information has helped me greatly. I think I will probably go to all metal trucks and wheelsets...eventually!!!

What a great forum!!!

Richard

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dickiee



What a great forum!!!

Richard

It gets better.

[brothaslide]

First of all, metal wheel sets look "real" vs. plastic which looks like plastic.

Secondly, metal wheel sets allow you to add more weight to the car without adding more weight at the axle/truck needle bearing (metal wheels weigh more than the plastic). Additionally, the less weight on the bearing means less frictional force at the bearing thus generating less rolling resistance (the car will roll more freely). The case for added rolling inertia could be made as the metal wheels are heavier than the plastic, but realistically, this would probably not be noticeable.

Sean

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by brothaslide

First of all, metal wheel sets look "real" vs. plastic which looks like plastic.

The case for added rolling inertia could be made as the metal wheels are heavier than the plastic, but realistically, this would probably not be noticeable.

Sean

Some modelers prefer the 100% all metal IMs on their empty(under weighted hoppers).

[AntonioFP45]

Am converting my entire freight and passenger car fleet to metal wheels. [:)][:D]

It's funny that I just have a shelf that's a multi-tracked "tester" and yet grime builds up just from running plastic wheel equipped cars back and forth on the test tracks. Metal wheels stay much cleaner and yes, I like hearing the sharp "clickey-clacks" that they produce. I've weighed my Athearn Centerflow hopper cars down with "birdshot" and the clicks are quite noticeable! Nice! [;)]

Smooth trackwork is essential though, as the cars will still "jolt" noticeably if track sections connected with rail joiners are not snug. [:p]

Cheers!

[Jetrock]

Much of my layout is in-street track, so reducing track grime is a high priority (since cleaning track surrounded by street is harder than regular ties-on-ballast) as is accurate gauge (out-gauge wheelsets get stuck in flangeways and scrape against the street.) The heavier weight of metal wheels helps avoid derailments.

Every little bit helps--but all in all, the advantages of metal wheelsets add up to quite a bit!

[on30francisco]

I changed to metal wheels and I'm really glad I did. The track is cleaner and I like the clickety-clack sound whenevre they roll over a joint.

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by locomotive3

IMO, generally speaking, quality rolling stock should not have to be up graded.
Now I will share with you my Walthers HO Budd Passenger stock sets first run cars.
My Atlas Dash 8-32BW would only pull three cars on level track because of the axle drag so I had to upgrage to IMs if I wanted to get the full consist out of the station.

What a learning experience for a discounted $24.00 car.

Locomotive 3,

Did you find the exact cause of the axle drag? I've heard that there is some drag when the lighting kit is installed, but only that. I plan on purchasing about 10 more Walther's cars (mainly SCL) and would appreciate knowing of potential headaches. [;)]

Thanks!

[BRAKIE]

I use both plastic and metal wheels.I use metal wheels at the club per the club's freight car rules and use both on my home layout..Now,I will replace the plastic wheels on the few cars I use at home that doesn't have metal wheels but,there is no great ru***o convert these cars.You see I used plastic wheels until 2 or 3 years ago when the club voted in metal wheels as a club standard.
What I do like about metal wheels is the weight is put on the rail where its is needed most plus I like the shiny wheel thread..

[ClinchValleySD40]

Converting to metal wheels is some of the best money you can spend. Anyone believing plastic wheels are as good as metal is kidding. No contest on rolling quality.

[mondotrains]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CBQ_Guy

I've never had the inclination to jump on the metal wheelset band wagon. I and other model railroaders in the area use the wheels that come with the models or upgrade to Kadee's. Layouts run fine and track cleaning is just considered to be a part of regular layout maintenance as it's always been.

Personally, I don't want my cars all that freerolling as I have no desire to built my layout to such a tight standard using a laser level and GPS to ensure level so my uncoupled cars won't roll away!

I agree with you Paul....I had posted a question back in April about "replacement metal wheelsets" and because so many guys suggested Intermountain wheels, I bought 100 and tried them. They make my cars sooooo free-rolling that they roll where there is the slightest bit of unlevel spot on my track. Considering I did my best to level my layout, including using refrigerator leveling feet on the legs of my benchwork, I was surprised to see some cars rolling after being spotted on a siding or sitting alone on the mainline. I've decided to use Kadees because they are metal, run very well after I use the Micro Mark tool to ream out the journal on my trucks, and they run very clean because I use a brass wire brush in a Dremmel to clean off the factory blackening material from the wheel tread and flange.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

[AntonioFP45]

I've only used P2Ks, however, I'm considering buying one pack of Inter Mountains and try them out since I keep hearing good things about them.[:)][:D][8D][;)][:p][8)]

Peace!

[Isambard]

Does anyone have recommendations as to metal wheelset best buy sources in Canada or are U.S. sources better buys?

[?]

[jwmurrayjr]

I bought my last 2 boxes of Intermountain metal wheels (33") from Tom Bryant at www.Tomstrains.com for $42.95 per 100. $6.95 per order shipping I think.

I have trouble with Tom's web site and use email: [e-mail]

With metal wheels you may find that you don't have any level spots on your layout.
[:)]

[dharmon]

I have a mix of Kadee, IM and P2K wheel sets on my rolling stock. My preference now of the three is IMs. In my experience they drop in better and roll smoother than the others.

[Don Gibson]

ALL the above are VALID:

In SIMPLE terms - (and GENERALITIES):

1. Plastic wheels come with the product because they're CHEAPER.
2. Things that are cheaper are likely to be COMPROMISED. - out of guage, wheel wobble, size, and even the raw materials.

Metal wheels:
1. tend to POLISH track - helps electrical conductivity.
2. tend to be more 'TRACKABLE'
3. more EXPENSIVE: The best one's are machined to NMRA spec.

VARIABLES: (Directly related to PRICE).
Machining VS. Stamping (JB, NWSL - P2K)
Materials: Nickel silver - brass - steel -
Size Compromises - 'One size fits all' (IHC)
Q.C.- Quality Control

Want SPECIFICS?:
OK. One time I had ALL Athearn with constant out-of-gauge plastic wheel problems requiring 100% inspection. I bought 100 JAY BEE wheels and ended my 'gauge problems. (i don't even inspect my wheels anymore); THEN I discovered the other benefits(NMRA) . I tried one package of P2K but had 80% rejects (Wobble), Dealer would not take them back.

So much for P2K's . REBOX could NOT tell me which of their sets fit the IHC cars. JayBee could (NEM). Jim Bennett called me personally. After 300 wheelsets, I am nearing replacements 100% with JAYBEE. I guess I have my predjudices.