So, the one you worked on would be the one on the left? (the one that's about to tip over) It looks good!
In all seriousness though, good job. This project earns my sacred stamp of approval.
Sawyer, I think you're the only one here that in N scale.
GG, the one on the right looks kind of pudgy.
I found a can of rust-colored spray paint in the garage, so I've shot a few sets of metal wheels with it to see how it comes out. Looks good so far. I've also got all 5 of my 85' flats put together with the weight upgrades. Now to get rid of the undecorated ones.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
When I did the WRS GP9m, I removed all molded on details from the front, then added Details West Plows, and MU Hoses, slightly modified MBE CP Early Geep ditch lights, Details Associates Trainline Hoses, and a new drop step.
I think you can tell which is the new loco and which is the old, and which looks better!
Alex
Joe, I'm assuming you mean the Horribly Oversized scale?
I model in Normal scale. ain't done any detailing of my locos yet though.............
As to my layout status, until I can get the track for my next layout, I'm going to make that diorama layout I've got my permanent layout on my 4x8 table when I move into my next room.
I'm also working on a diorama, got a long way to go on the scenery though.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Andy! I guess I wasn't here before you left.
Andy Fekete That would be HO scale
That would be HO scale
I decided that over the summer, I'll work on 2201. I'll get a decoder (D13SRJ) for it, install it (a new feat for me), and add NON-operating ditch lights. I realized that my current system doesn't support programming, so that'll have to wait. But I hope to get away from E-Z Command (and E-Z Track), and eventually I'll probably get a Zephyr. But once that happens, all I'll have to do is connect and wire the ditch lights (when I install them I'll put the bulbs and wiring in, but just not attach them to the decoder.I'll also get around to painting 4100 and making REAL decals for it, instead of lettering it with a Sharpie. I might keep the cab numbering because it works and it's not half bad (it's printed on regular paper and attached using double sided tape and a glue stick (yes, you DO need both for it to work).
I also need other stuff for, well... other stuff. But there's a train show in August that I REALLY hope to go to (haven't been to one in probably about 10 years, not my fault!). And then in October there's some "Commuter Modelers Meet and Train Expo" or something at Rutgers (New Brunswick) that I REALLY REALLY (REALLY) want to go to because the guy from Island Model Works will be there and I can pick up some Comets and maybe some MultiLevels and a PL42AC (depending on how much money I pick up between now and then, but I need [yes, I NEED] to get an iTouch soon [READ: NOW, iPod died last week]).So I probably won't be able to buy anything for a while, but I'm getting a job (actually two, I already have one [kinda], but I would like to get another), and birthday money will pay for a good part of the iTouch [I already got $75, and probably more, so I'll probably need to pay for the last $200-250 for it]. But I didn't have to pay for my new enV Touch that I got last night (Thank you birthday and free two-year upgrade!). But anyway, so yeah...
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
Welcome, Andy! What scale are you modeling in?
The only MBE part that I'm using is the triangle number board. The feedwater heater system, bell and headlight assembly is cal-scale and the vestibule cab is precision scale, i think.
You using MBE parts?
Yea it has been a while hasn't it? Now that I'm on summer vacation i have some time for some modelling. With help from ma homies at my LHS I've decided to kitbash my B-man 2-10-2 since the guy that would've done it has a lot in his hands right now. I guess, in the end, it's for the best. I just hope i don't break anything! I don't have to wait for parts, I already have all of them. It just so happens that another regular customer at the store just finished the exact same project that I am undertaking so I will be able to get some assistance from him. I hope to get started on that soon. The true line trains CNR northern that I ordered around 1 1/2 years ago still hasn't materialized. In fact, I've on;y been able to find some computer-generated images and some unrevealing pics of the pre-production model. I hope that in the end it's worth the wait.
So what's up with you guys?
And yes, I do have facebook.
Hey Andy, guess I wasn't a member back when you were on here. I'm guessing you've got facebook?
Its been awhile since I've seen you... The fact that we're friends on facebook doesn't count.
Just cheking in here. Haven't been on the forums for a LONG time! What's up guys?
Normally I don't like to double post, but...BUMP!!!C'mon guys, page 3???
Weathered the caboose this weekend, but wasn't able to get the final product into WPF, so next week. Link for pix is in my sig.Also FINALLY got the "TSRy Preview Part 2" up. Again, link for UTube is in my sig...
I only have to survive for 3 MORE HOURS AND 15 MINUTES!!! Two exams tomorrow, and we end at 11:15. Geometry and Spanish, both easy.And I just realized, I can drive in 1 year and 1 day! We take Driver's Ed 1st quarter next year, and I get my permit in June. Watch out! HAHAHA!
LOL. Now, I'm studying for my spanish exam (Yo estudio por el examen de Espanol [I was practicing!]). http://www.glencoe.com/sec/worldlanguages/spanish/buenviajelevel1_2003/index.html I was playing the chapter games. They're kinda fun!
I did one install of the weight kits to one of my existing 85' flats, and man does it make a difference. The car sits lower, looks and performs better. However using the weight kit made it have to take larger radius, since it won't go around the 18" ones I have, might make it around 22".
I built my staging yard and lift bridge today! It's really solid, with brass door hinges, quality hardwood for the bridge and staging tracks. I added a fence to keep trains from taking the dive, made out of old brass flextrack. I read about that tip somewhere on the TRAINS.Com forums.The tracks don't extend as far as I'd wanted, since I didn't buy enough shelf wood, but it's easily long enough for 10 car trains.The bridge is aligned with dowel "teeth" on the bottom of the bridge that fit into holes in the benchwork. I rounded the edges of the teeth with a sanding block so that they would correct for warping and expansion, and force the bridge into alignment. When the bridge is down, they keep it right where I want it, so I have no worries at all about rail alignment.Here's my amazingly complicated and expensive way to keep the bridge up when not in use! NOTE: This does not hold any weight at all, since the bridge leans against the wall. This is just to control sway.Questions and comments welcome...
I got an Autorack and 2 containers in the mail the other day:
The flat car I've had for a bit.
After a lot of tinkering, I managed to fit 2 40 foot containers on a car, and allow contaniers to be swapped out. I did this by drilling a hole in the container shoe so that the conatainer's lugs will slip in them. It's quite easy to locate where since there is a dimple in the perfect spot. Then file the rail on the bottom of the shoes so it fits in the grooves on the deck. After that, file off half of that rail off so that the 2 conainters will fit, and the inside containter shoes will be touching. Then to secure them all, i used tacky glue so I can remove them and put them on a different car if I wanted. The one you see is a mock-up. I don't have a picture of the finished product yet.
I also went to the Pensacola show and picked up an SD40-2 (finally!!) but it wasn't quite the ones I had in mind:
No one had any of the normal SD40-2s, so I got the Bicentennial SD40-2, 1876. I'll eventually get around to putting the sound decoder I have for it in.
I also got this tool for 10 bucks, should really come in handy.
I also bought a boxcar kit, 3 hoppers, and a reffer (also, finally!!). I was looking for trailers, but only found the 2-pack of athearn ones that were $15 each (60 bucks for the rest of my cars). None of the Concor or Athearn kit ones that would be cheaper. That, and most of the stuff at that show was N-scale.
I got the stuff for my staging yard lift bridge...16' in 1" by 4" by 8' lumber, 5 "L" brackets, two door hinges, a dowel for lateral alignment, a deadbolt for vertical alignment, and I just realized I forgot an eye hook to secure the bridge in the "up" position...
The wood for the actual bridge and transition piece (the bridge is 2 inches from the wall, and the shelf will be right on the wall, so I need a small piece wider than the shelf) I already have, and isn't pictured.
The wood for the actual bridge and transition piece (the bridge is 2 inches from the wall, and the shelf will be right on the wall, so I need a small piece wider than the shelf) I already have, and isn't pictured.Electrical connections will be in the form of small metal plates with wires screwed to them. They will provide power to the staging yard as well as the electrically isolated approach tracks to the bridge. This will ensure that nothing can move near the bridge when it's up. I don't feel like running trains on(to) the floor!
Packers#1 Packer Joe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake. Joe, I've been out for a week today man, lol. well, here's the latest 8x12 plan. I'll print it out and add the scenery, etc.:
Packer Joe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake.
Joe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake.
Joe, I've been out for a week today man, lol.
well, here's the latest 8x12 plan. I'll print it out and add the scenery, etc.:
Sawyer, I really like the plan. Maybe it won't be like me right now, 4th times the charm. Could I ask you where you got the track planning software?
Did some weathering on the caboose before. Just added some rust, and I added the reporting marks, too. Still needs some dullcote, though. I hope to have pix sometime this weekend.
ns3010Sawyer: That plan looks much better than the last one. If I'm reading this one right, there is a loop with the two towns, and an outside staging loop, correct?
Sawyer: That plan looks much better than the last one. If I'm reading this one right, there is a loop with the two towns, and an outside staging loop, correct?
Yep. I can also have a train running the outside loop (would have to throw a couple switches in the interchange though) while I'm switching the towns, maybe when my friends are over or something.
Here's the plan w/ scenery. Had to swap up a couple of the sidings in Marion. Also, if I posted the other plan where Mullins was completely at the top, I moved it to the side some.
I posted photos of the caboose in WPF, but I don't feel like getting them... I'm too tired
PackerJoe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake.
Ooooh, that sucks man! Good luck with them, anyway.
Tyler: Great job on the cab ride and pass videos! Nice job with that sideswipe in the cab ride...
NO MORE CLASSES!!! WOOOOOOOOO! Day off tomorrow to do nothing (read: study for exams). Then 3 days of exams, and then the year is OVAH!
Thanks!
I took this shot a couple days ago, but the project file got corrupted to I had to re-edit it. I had a few minutes today so I did that. Railfanning the Mascoma Lake Grade 6/6/09, with Extra 431 and Manifests 402 and 403.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zASjEWa6Dc
Enjoy!
Jordan, I have to agree that Atlas master shells are sometimes a pain to take off. The U30C comes to mind,since one of the tabs is half below the cab, and the other half is below the nose. Problem is there isn't much of a nose to squeeze on a Uboat. The SD24s aren't that bad though.
A mini-project I came up with is replacing the minibulbs in my Genesis F45 and RTR GP35 with LEDs and MV lenses. I'll just have to figure out what size. A thing that will come out of this is I can recycle those minibulbs for use in beacons. The Atlas U30C already came with a hole drilled in the roof, so I'd just have to put a hole in the beacon and the minibulb in there.
While I don't mind the SD60M scheme, Alex doesn't like it...so scratch that. I'll start working on the SOO hockey stick scheme as soon as you get back on Skype.
Well I have took up the task of adding ditch lights to my locomotives. So far this is a tremendous about of planning, and effort. You wouldn't believe how difficult an Atlas Master Shell is to take off. I conquered that task, but now it's on to planning how I'm going to route the wires! If I do a full prototypical WC style, then the wires will come out the back of the Pilot and right on the steps. I have some ideas to get around this. But first I would like to have my SOO GP30 painted by Alex some time soon, and that shell extra he is sending me too, so I can experiment on that junky shell.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/