Maybe I'll get around to starting mine in two years- if they're not retired by then!
But the -2B's are safe from the dual modes. However, can't say the same about the CNJ units, -2As, FH-2s, and F40's...
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
...a mere two years. Perhaps another two and I'll have it painted and decaled!
-Don (Random stuff, mostly about trains - what else? http://blerfblog.blogspot.com/)
Wow, talk about rising from the dead!
Great Work!
BTW, I never got around to this project. Don't know if I ever will either...
WCfan ns3010: Are you going to keep bothering me until I get it exactly perfect? And then you're going to measure it to make sure that it's perfect.While I'm at it, should I weather it until every piece of dust, every bit of grime, and every splotch of oil are exactly like 4218? And should I program the sound decoder until the horn matches the exact pitch of 4218? But seriously, I'm willing to compromise on this. It will probably not end up on display at a train show or in a museum, or be sold. The only time that people (besides me) will ever see it is in pictures. Look at my F40 for example. None of the cuts line up, I didn't cut the HEP doors on the hood, and the rear wall is COMPLETELY wrong. But do I care? Nope. I like you enthusiasm in your projects, keep that up! I hate to ruin it; I only want to save you some time, money, and a GP40! But you can't just take the SD45 flares and throw them on a GP40, first the SD 45 flares are all wrong, but you don't seem to mind that...but that wasn't my point in the first place! On the SD45 there is a "seam" between the DB and the radiators, let’s say you cut it there. On the GP40, there is also another seam between the DB and radiators; lets say you cut the GP40 radiators off there. If you put the SD45 radiators where the GP40 radiators where, you'd just barely have enough room for the SD45 radiators. You'd also still need to add a HEP fan too. Ok now lets say you wanted to make more room, and you cut the SD45 radiator right off at where the SD45 radiator starts, and you cut the GP40 right up to the back of the DB (Not sure how to explain it, but it's where the DB goes back to the body, flush you could describe it). If you did that you might be able to just barely fit the HEP fan in. Also not to mention that the SD45 radiators go down a little farther than the GP40s. That extra 1/2 an inch is very important as it gives room for the HEP unit and some porch room. Again, I don't want to kill your enthusiasm, I just want to save you some time and money.
ns3010: Are you going to keep bothering me until I get it exactly perfect? And then you're going to measure it to make sure that it's perfect.While I'm at it, should I weather it until every piece of dust, every bit of grime, and every splotch of oil are exactly like 4218? And should I program the sound decoder until the horn matches the exact pitch of 4218? But seriously, I'm willing to compromise on this. It will probably not end up on display at a train show or in a museum, or be sold. The only time that people (besides me) will ever see it is in pictures. Look at my F40 for example. None of the cuts line up, I didn't cut the HEP doors on the hood, and the rear wall is COMPLETELY wrong. But do I care? Nope.
Are you going to keep bothering me until I get it exactly perfect? And then you're going to measure it to make sure that it's perfect.While I'm at it, should I weather it until every piece of dust, every bit of grime, and every splotch of oil are exactly like 4218? And should I program the sound decoder until the horn matches the exact pitch of 4218?
But seriously, I'm willing to compromise on this. It will probably not end up on display at a train show or in a museum, or be sold. The only time that people (besides me) will ever see it is in pictures. Look at my F40 for example. None of the cuts line up, I didn't cut the HEP doors on the hood, and the rear wall is COMPLETELY wrong. But do I care? Nope.
I like you enthusiasm in your projects, keep that up! I hate to ruin it; I only want to save you some time, money, and a GP40! But you can't just take the SD45 flares and throw them on a GP40, first the SD 45 flares are all wrong, but you don't seem to mind that...but that wasn't my point in the first place! On the SD45 there is a "seam" between the DB and the radiators, let’s say you cut it there. On the GP40, there is also another seam between the DB and radiators; lets say you cut the GP40 radiators off there. If you put the SD45 radiators where the GP40 radiators where, you'd just barely have enough room for the SD45 radiators. You'd also still need to add a HEP fan too. Ok now lets say you wanted to make more room, and you cut the SD45 radiator right off at where the SD45 radiator starts, and you cut the GP40 right up to the back of the DB (Not sure how to explain it, but it's where the DB goes back to the body, flush you could describe it). If you did that you might be able to just barely fit the HEP fan in. Also not to mention that the SD45 radiators go down a little farther than the GP40s. That extra 1/2 an inch is very important as it gives room for the HEP unit and some porch room. Again, I don't want to kill your enthusiasm, I just want to save you some time and money.
Oh, I don't know if it was all THAT hard... A work in progress:
http://home.comcast.net/~oltmannd/NJTGP40PH.mht
Its not ripped off if you know the value of it.
Alex
Guilford Guy I didn't want it anymore. My friend wanted it, and had 10$ in his wallet. It was already missing some detail parts. I don't regret it at all!
I didn't want it anymore. My friend wanted it, and had 10$ in his wallet. It was already missing some detail parts. I don't regret it at all!
You would've been alot better off selling it on ebay or to a hobby shop. I would assume that somebody wanting to kitbash it wouldn't mind missing detail parts. With an original price of $235US your friend must have been very happy indeed. You got ripped off really, REALLY bad.
I would never sell something like that for $10 regardless of the circumstances. Why'd you do that?
If only I knew... I sold my 2-10-2 for 10$ at Springfield. That's like half the price of the decoder that was in it.
Here's my first real contribution. It is my first major MRR project and after about a year of procrastinating I've finally started. I started off with a bachmann spectrum 2-10-2 and I am kitbashing it to make it look more like this.
I have all my parts. What I will do includes:
-changing the cab
-Changing bell, marker lights as well as adding elesco feedwater heater w/ pipes
-New paint (I won't be doing that)
...and a few other things.
And here's what I've got so far.
This is the top half of the loco on my cradle. If you are wondering what happened to the headlight, the numbers were shaved off with a hobby knife and the number plate below it was filed. It will be used as a mount for the new one after painting has completed. I am starting with the more simple things first. I am trying to get the feedwater heater correctly mounted. Not quite sure if it has been resessed deep enough into the boiler though.
Your thoughts?
We're on page 4 again?!?!?
I've been working on something as of late: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lQP64vwbbU I aslo figured out how I'm going to light the one in that SD40-2. I'm going to get some MV lenses and .02 fiber-optic strands. 2 of the .02 strands will fit into the holes for the lights on that athearn engine. I don't really plan to put up a video of each engine that I do lighting or sound installs. But that SD40-2 will since it's going to have both a beacon and custom installed sound when it's finished.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Thanks guys! You've successfully forced me into doing this the "right way!"
Actually, I guess it's not really that hard. I'll chop off the rear wall and radiators from the GP40, and the radiators off the SD45. There are three "sections" on the SD45 radiator, and I only need two of them. I'll splice in 3'3" scale feet of the SD45 (0.37 real inches) into the geep. I'll scratchbuild that section of the rear hood and the rear wall, and add the Cannon hood doors. Then I'll take the remaining "section" of the SD45 radiator and add that in. Build a roof for that portion, add the HEP fan and all other details, and it's done. I'll try and move the rear truck back on the frame. If that's not possible, then I'll just have to slide the entire shell forward (on the prototype, the frame was extended and the rear truck was moved backwards, but the front truck was in it's original position). I'd also have to add working ditch lights, and all the NJT specific details (I don't think there are many, the only think I can think of are the K5LA and the strobes). It would be nice to have working marker lights, too, especially since I want working headlights, ditch lights, and markers on my cab cars (when I get any, but that's a whole different project).This photo (not mine) is a great help, and it shows many of the details. You can see how the radiators are divided into two "sections" (there's a cross through it), and there is a third "section" that is the HEP radiator.
But this project won't be coming for a while, so I don't need to worry about it right now.
With the GP40MC project I used a GP40X end because it was closer than the SD45, and if you want your model to be EASIER you should extend if half an inch. Right now using your GP40 shell it would look okay, except the rear sectionof the radiators should cut short about 1/4 of an inch. Get a Cannon High Hood kit and modify it slightly (add a small square of styrene where its missing). Detail it with Cannon Doors and add the SD45 radiators. This would be under 10$ for a much more correct way of doing it. You can always splice in part of the SD45 sill to extend it.
What you're trying to do is fit 4 radiator fan sections in the place of 3, and doing it this way you wont have to worry about squishing all of it into the loco. You do not need to extend the frame. If you cut the sill and extend it 1/2" with the SD45sill spliced into it, you will be extending past the rear truck 1/2 inch. buy cutting the tabs, you can move the shell forward on the frame 1/4" so that there is only a 1/4" discrepancy on either end.
Alex Out
ns3010 Are you going to keep bothering me until I get it exactly perfect? And then you're going to measure it to make sure that it's perfect.While I'm at it, should I weather it until every piece of dust, every bit of grime, and every splotch of oil are exactly like 4218? And should I program the sound decoder until the horn matches the exact pitch of 4218? But seriously, I'm willing to compromise on this. It will probably not end up on display at a train show or in a museum, or be sold. The only time that people (besides me) will ever see it is in pictures. Look at my F40 for example. None of the cuts line up, I didn't cut the HEP doors on the hood, and the rear wall is COMPLETELY wrong. But do I care? Nope.
I like you enthusiasm in your projects, keep that up! I hate to ruin it; I only want to save you some time, money, and a GP40! But you can't just take the SD45 flares and throw them on a GP40, first the SD 45 flares are all wrong, but you don't seem to mind that...but that wasn't my point in the first place! On the SD45 there is a "seam" between the DB and the radiators, let’s say you cut it there. On the GP40, there is also another seam between the DB and radiators; lets say you cut the GP40 radiators off there. If you put the SD45 radiators where the GP40 radiators where, you'd just barely have enough room for the SD45 radiators. You'd also still need to add a HEP fan too. Ok now lets say you wanted to make more room, and you cut the SD45 radiator right off at where the SD45 radiator starts, and you cut the GP40 right up to the back of the DB (Not sure how to explain it, but it's where the DB goes back to the body, flush you could describe it). If you did that you might be able to just barely fit the HEP fan in. Also not to mention that the SD45 radiators go down a little farther than the GP40s. That extra 1/2 an inch is very important as it gives room for the HEP unit and some porch room. Again, I don't want to kill your enthusiasm, I just want to save you some time and money.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
Different hood doors.
That's still close enough (for me, anyway)...
That's still half an inch...
GP40PH-2Bs are 62'5", only 3'3" longer. That will be one of the things I can compromise. Three feet in HO, is what, a quarter inch, if even that? And I'll need to add one more fan (3 rad, 1 DB, 1 HEP).All this info is taken from a thread that I found on another forum (the info is legit, taken directly out of the loco's ops manual).
There's slight differences. I'm not a rivet counter, but I won't just buy a GP40X or GP40-2 and say "good enough." On my F40, I could have simply chopped off the rear platform, but instead, I decided to rebuild it the correct way (although I must admit to comprimising, which causes the quality to suffer).
And besides, I like kitbashing an modifying.
Or you could just buy a GP40X.
Since you're talking about SD45s, it got me thinking...I've always wanted a GP40PH-2, but didn't want to have to kitbash one. But then I realized how easy it is. So I'm thinking of kitbashing a GP40 (w/ dynamics) with a SD45 (all I need is the radiators, so I'll get a cheap one off ebay). Basically chop the flared radiators off the SD, and throw them on the geep, and it's done. 4218 would be nice to have...
Nope. Body work is modifications such as high hood conversions, or kitbashings.
Does re-numbering count as body work?
I am, money is low. No longer doing body work because it takes too long. You know that first hand. I need to order another bottle of cascade green.
Your painting that Lehigh Valley RS3 into a Lamoille Valley RS3, right? I dunno how you can paint an RS3 into an RS3??? Regarding those SD45s, best bet is to call them and find out. If they have any BNs left I may go and get another one and re-number it. *hint, hint*
hint, you did mention you were doing decal/paint work to raise some funds somewhere.
Yeah, I'm hoping they are still available. Maybe I can work out a deal with Yoshi. I have the decals, and paint, just need the locos. My hope is to finish them by Hartford, so I can run a set of EPIC WINs and have everyone be like "oh he's so cool!"
I'll keep thinking that.
ANYWAYS...
I need to strip the LV RS3, and the CCRR S4, and paint the RS3 into RS3, and the CCRR into better CCRR paint.
Jordan, the new scheme looks a bit better.
GG, I have 3 (okay, one's an F45) but I ain't selling them. Trainworld has P2K SD45s for $30 bucks. A steal for an engine that runs as good or better than atlas, and can pull over 100 cars. IIRC, they weight 24.8 ounces, or over 1.5 pounds.
It matches the decals better... And looks spiffier. Now I just need a pair of SD45s...
It is suppose to be a BN Cascade green, but the BN locomotive darwing I used for the color was a brighter version of the color. I try a more true Cascade Green on the next locomotives I paint.
I kinda like the darker green. What do you guys think?
IDK, I like the Lemon-Lime Twist...
Its too late anyways... Decals have already been produced for the SD45s.
But if they were lemon-lime twists you would probably end up with a headache after two minutes of operation.
But then they wouldn't be Lemon-Lime Twists!
http://www.pbase.com/tom_murray/image/113224908
WCfan Well I have a new WIN scheme, what do you guys think of it? Also what do you guys think of this slogan "Powering Wisconsin", Alex says it's blah, but idk, we'll see how you guys think.
Well I have a new WIN scheme, what do you guys think of it?
Also what do you guys think of this slogan "Powering Wisconsin", Alex says it's blah, but idk, we'll see how you guys think.
It's not bad, but DEFINATELY change the colours. The bright green and yellow don't exactly go together. I would suggest something a little more dull (not boring, just less bright) for the base colour. Of, course if you change the base, you may have to change the stripe colour accordingly. Perhaps a darker green?
TrainManTyA REAL White River Southern Railroad might qualify for government funds to buy a Genset... But the model WRS doesn't!
TSRy does! The government that supplies the funds is called "Christmas"! Or "a job."I figure that if each state gov't (CT, NY, and NJ) each buy and/or chip in for one genset, than I can have one running in each state as a switcher unit! I can see it now:"Introducing the Low-Emissions Genset Switching Locomotive (LEGS Loco): Keeping the Tri-State area from becoming even more intoxicated than it already is!"
In case you're wondering, yes, I'm in a good mood today.
A REAL White River Southern Railroad might qualify for government funds to buy a Genset... But the model WRS doesn't!
I do see at least a few of the old WRS units moving to partner roads, like MSRR and QNE. We'll see...
Jordan, I think it looks good, but it looks like it'd be kind of tricky to mask. "Route of the Packers" still sounds better!!
Joe, I don't think anyone will come out with an MP20B-3 anytime soon, it took 5 years for someone to come out with gensets after all. I'm still looking for a C636; I found something from a few years ago that said Tiger Valley Models was working on one. I Wonder if they are still in buisness and if so, do they have them available? That or wait for stewart (they have the C630 with the high-ad trucks), just change the shell a bit and they'll have it.
Something about the stripe seems wierd to me, but I don't know. Maybe just because it's so early (I'm not even sure why I'm up!)And I like the slogan, although it seems a lot like WSOR 4053...
Schweet, thanks.
Also forgot to mention that I came down the shore today! YESSSS!
PackerJoe, good luck on ditch lights. If you use indiviual bulbs for them what they are so that I can get some for beacons.
I was going to use Accurate Lighting part 144-29. Sorry, but good luck with the beacons anyway!
For 2201 (I might also order parts for 4100 while I'm at it), I'm going to add ditch lights, drop steps, snowplows, MU hoses, Nathan K5LAs, cab air conditioners, antennas, and all weather windows. I think that's everything, but if I'm leaving anything out, please let me know. I'm going to pass on details for 1300 since it's currently stored, and I'm not exactly sure about it's future (I'll either get a motor for it or just make it a display).
Atlas is coming out with NJT GP40s 4300-4303 (N scale ones came out a while ago), so I'll have to grab one (since NJT owns the line, they need some kind of MOW locos). Now if only someone could come out with a MP20B-3...Also, anyone know when the Atlas 3GS-21Bs are coming out? I've seen the pre-production photos, but Atlas never put an official announcement with a date on their site.
Vincent: CSX just got a couple gensets for service in NJ paid for by some company (I forget exactly who, and I'm too lazy to look it up). The TSRy. one(s) will be paid for by the state in order to promote fewer emissions WOOO! Free gensets!
Nope! They're selling the 5817 and replacing it with a Genset. I expect them to make a small profit given the amount the 5817 will go for, and the cheap price they can get the Genset for. Increased Fuel Savings and PR because they're less environmentally unfriendly. Also 600 more horsepower than 5817!
So the WRS doesn't qualify for reduced costs on gensets?? (supposedly some RR's get them for free)
Here's the sound install:
They wouldn't be scrapped, just sold off to another railroad, probably Merrimack & Souhegan
They really don't fit in with the general operating scheme, and WRS will need money to fund the purchase of 4 GP40s, and a Genset.
Ty, why would 5817 and 2752 be going to scrap?
Joe, good luck on ditch lights. If you use indiviual bulbs for them what they are so that I can get some for beacons.
I maganged to get around to putting that 2nd-generation EMD sound decoder into my SD40-2. I thought of hooking up the beacon that is installed on it but haven't came up with idea I could do with what I have on hand. Because of where it sits and the fact athearn uses 2 mini-bulbs instead of a light board it would be very tricky to get it to light. Fiber optics and MV lenes could work, but it'd still be tricky. I also have to ger resistors since the soundtraxx's light function output is 12v, which I found out the hard way and lost 2. I ordered 2 extra sets and will use the others for beacons in my U30C and SD45s, and maybe for the mars light on my 2 non-sound SD24s if there are enough left.
I weathered my new Walthers Airslide hopper this week... I used a mix of paint washes, fine-grit sandpaper (for fading the lettering), and pastels. The graffiti was brush painted on.BEFORE:AFTER:Questions and comments welcome, as usual.
No Alex, 1402 is staying... It might be a helper (although my sidings are now too short for helpers to be actually needed) or it might just sit at the engine terminal. Eventually I'm going to ditch the black nose though. Visibility of the front really suffers with all black! That's why the Phase I scheme includes a B&M white stripe. Red will work better on PII locos.
Thanks! Maybe once I'm done, I'll post a tutorial on NTRES or something.
I was looking at those Gensets a while back, but couldn't find a reason to justify having one. Now since TSRy owns the line, I can have one. I need something for the Watchinson switcher (not to be confused with the local, which will have a geep). Currently, I have 2201, but it will eventually go into MOW service. The SW1500s (1300-1302) are stored dead, and is retired and used for parts. So basically, I currently have nothing for a switcher. Maybe the state can fund some money for a green switcherAlso, I have a GP30 on my roster, but it is one of the (many) locos that I don't have a model for. We'll see once you get ready to sell it.
Did you know that 35% of all HO scale GP9m locomotives are obese? That's from a new NMRA study.
All kidding aside now...
Joe: Good luck with ditch lights! I need to add them to several locomotives in my roster, so if you could keep us updated it would be helpful.
Since I plan to replace most of my locos this winter when Atlas comes out with their GP40-2LW units, I only need to add ditch lights to the units I plan on keeping. That'll be 9423 (GP18 assigned to the local), 8569 (GP7 on a transfer job), and 1402 (SDP35, most likely a helper unit. Then I'll have 4 GP40-2LW locos on both manifests and a Genset (also coming out this winter by Atlas) in the yard.
I'll need to sell most of my current locos though... 2306 (U23B), 3243 (CSX U23B), 5817 (GP7), and 2752 (GP30) will all have to go to finance the GP40-2LWs and Genset.
So in late winter you'll see some new WRS locos... Jordan, Alex, and I are still working on the paint scheme.
GG: Thanks for the tips for the GP9! Nice job detailing, even though it is obese
I started on 2201 yesterday. I can't really do much on the detailing, since I don't have any parts yet (haven't ordered them). But I removed the horns (I'll add two Nathan K5s, one on each end) and started filing the frame to make room for the ditch lights.I've referenced David Popp's article on how he added his to a SOO SD60, I believe (it was in MR about a year ago, IIRC). Similar to the Athearn model used in the article, there are little "wings" around the coupler pocket. You have to file these away to make room for the wiring. There is also a taller "second nose" on the frame that fits inside the actual nose. I will also have to shave this down, either on top or on the sides (not sure which yet, but probably the sides. Then the rest SHOULD be fairly straightforward.
Yup, I'm right here... There's several more locos painted in WRS colors, but since they were painted and decaled in two days, (paint arrived on Thursday, ops session was Saturday) they don't look as good. Also the Phase II paint isn't nearly as cool as Phase I.
1701 (the fat one on the right) is the one Alex detailed. But nothing can fix the fat hood...
Vincent, I think that's the case, unfortunately......
I think I'm gonna go nuts. I've had some paint on order, and a part for my airbrush, idk when they're gonna get in, I'm calling my LHS monday. Which means, even if they come in, I won't be able to get them unless they're already in, because we'll be in the Blue Ridge Mountains from Tuesday to some tiem that weekend. So it looks like I'll be starting those locos in July. I'll paint the GP9 first, I messed up the sill on one side because some excess glue fell over it when I was in a hurry, and I scraped it off a couple hours later, so it damaged the detail, but it can still be used in operation and also the other side is able to have pics taken. I'm gonna end up getting a new shell for it someday though.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
They were painted for Tyler (TrainManTy) who has been pretty quiet lately...
Thats some nice painting! Is this at some sort of MRR club or is this at your or your friend's place?
The one on the right is the trainline, and the ine on the left if the P2k. The P2k has much better paint and a scale hood.
The old trainline was sold, and I'm pressuring Tyler into buying a fleet of GP40-2Ls for road trains!
Here was the road power last time I was over, all painted by meeeeeee!
So, the one you worked on would be the one on the left? (the one that's about to tip over) It looks good!
In all seriousness though, good job. This project earns my sacred stamp of approval.
Sawyer, I think you're the only one here that in N scale.
GG, the one on the right looks kind of pudgy.
I found a can of rust-colored spray paint in the garage, so I've shot a few sets of metal wheels with it to see how it comes out. Looks good so far. I've also got all 5 of my 85' flats put together with the weight upgrades. Now to get rid of the undecorated ones.
When I did the WRS GP9m, I removed all molded on details from the front, then added Details West Plows, and MU Hoses, slightly modified MBE CP Early Geep ditch lights, Details Associates Trainline Hoses, and a new drop step.
I think you can tell which is the new loco and which is the old, and which looks better!
Joe, I'm assuming you mean the Horribly Oversized scale?
I model in Normal scale. ain't done any detailing of my locos yet though.............
As to my layout status, until I can get the track for my next layout, I'm going to make that diorama layout I've got my permanent layout on my 4x8 table when I move into my next room.
I'm also working on a diorama, got a long way to go on the scenery though.
Andy! I guess I wasn't here before you left.
Andy Fekete That would be HO scale
That would be HO scale
I decided that over the summer, I'll work on 2201. I'll get a decoder (D13SRJ) for it, install it (a new feat for me), and add NON-operating ditch lights. I realized that my current system doesn't support programming, so that'll have to wait. But I hope to get away from E-Z Command (and E-Z Track), and eventually I'll probably get a Zephyr. But once that happens, all I'll have to do is connect and wire the ditch lights (when I install them I'll put the bulbs and wiring in, but just not attach them to the decoder.I'll also get around to painting 4100 and making REAL decals for it, instead of lettering it with a Sharpie. I might keep the cab numbering because it works and it's not half bad (it's printed on regular paper and attached using double sided tape and a glue stick (yes, you DO need both for it to work).
I also need other stuff for, well... other stuff. But there's a train show in August that I REALLY hope to go to (haven't been to one in probably about 10 years, not my fault!). And then in October there's some "Commuter Modelers Meet and Train Expo" or something at Rutgers (New Brunswick) that I REALLY REALLY (REALLY) want to go to because the guy from Island Model Works will be there and I can pick up some Comets and maybe some MultiLevels and a PL42AC (depending on how much money I pick up between now and then, but I need [yes, I NEED] to get an iTouch soon [READ: NOW, iPod died last week]).So I probably won't be able to buy anything for a while, but I'm getting a job (actually two, I already have one [kinda], but I would like to get another), and birthday money will pay for a good part of the iTouch [I already got $75, and probably more, so I'll probably need to pay for the last $200-250 for it]. But I didn't have to pay for my new enV Touch that I got last night (Thank you birthday and free two-year upgrade!). But anyway, so yeah...
Welcome, Andy! What scale are you modeling in?
The only MBE part that I'm using is the triangle number board. The feedwater heater system, bell and headlight assembly is cal-scale and the vestibule cab is precision scale, i think.
You using MBE parts?
Yea it has been a while hasn't it? Now that I'm on summer vacation i have some time for some modelling. With help from ma homies at my LHS I've decided to kitbash my B-man 2-10-2 since the guy that would've done it has a lot in his hands right now. I guess, in the end, it's for the best. I just hope i don't break anything! I don't have to wait for parts, I already have all of them. It just so happens that another regular customer at the store just finished the exact same project that I am undertaking so I will be able to get some assistance from him. I hope to get started on that soon. The true line trains CNR northern that I ordered around 1 1/2 years ago still hasn't materialized. In fact, I've on;y been able to find some computer-generated images and some unrevealing pics of the pre-production model. I hope that in the end it's worth the wait.
So what's up with you guys?
And yes, I do have facebook.
Hey Andy, guess I wasn't a member back when you were on here. I'm guessing you've got facebook?
Its been awhile since I've seen you... The fact that we're friends on facebook doesn't count.
Just cheking in here. Haven't been on the forums for a LONG time! What's up guys?
Normally I don't like to double post, but...BUMP!!!C'mon guys, page 3???
Weathered the caboose this weekend, but wasn't able to get the final product into WPF, so next week. Link for pix is in my sig.Also FINALLY got the "TSRy Preview Part 2" up. Again, link for UTube is in my sig...
I only have to survive for 3 MORE HOURS AND 15 MINUTES!!! Two exams tomorrow, and we end at 11:15. Geometry and Spanish, both easy.And I just realized, I can drive in 1 year and 1 day! We take Driver's Ed 1st quarter next year, and I get my permit in June. Watch out! HAHAHA!
LOL. Now, I'm studying for my spanish exam (Yo estudio por el examen de Espanol [I was practicing!]). http://www.glencoe.com/sec/worldlanguages/spanish/buenviajelevel1_2003/index.html I was playing the chapter games. They're kinda fun!
I did one install of the weight kits to one of my existing 85' flats, and man does it make a difference. The car sits lower, looks and performs better. However using the weight kit made it have to take larger radius, since it won't go around the 18" ones I have, might make it around 22".
I built my staging yard and lift bridge today! It's really solid, with brass door hinges, quality hardwood for the bridge and staging tracks. I added a fence to keep trains from taking the dive, made out of old brass flextrack. I read about that tip somewhere on the TRAINS.Com forums.The tracks don't extend as far as I'd wanted, since I didn't buy enough shelf wood, but it's easily long enough for 10 car trains.The bridge is aligned with dowel "teeth" on the bottom of the bridge that fit into holes in the benchwork. I rounded the edges of the teeth with a sanding block so that they would correct for warping and expansion, and force the bridge into alignment. When the bridge is down, they keep it right where I want it, so I have no worries at all about rail alignment.Here's my amazingly complicated and expensive way to keep the bridge up when not in use! NOTE: This does not hold any weight at all, since the bridge leans against the wall. This is just to control sway.Questions and comments welcome...
I got an Autorack and 2 containers in the mail the other day:
The flat car I've had for a bit.
After a lot of tinkering, I managed to fit 2 40 foot containers on a car, and allow contaniers to be swapped out. I did this by drilling a hole in the container shoe so that the conatainer's lugs will slip in them. It's quite easy to locate where since there is a dimple in the perfect spot. Then file the rail on the bottom of the shoes so it fits in the grooves on the deck. After that, file off half of that rail off so that the 2 conainters will fit, and the inside containter shoes will be touching. Then to secure them all, i used tacky glue so I can remove them and put them on a different car if I wanted. The one you see is a mock-up. I don't have a picture of the finished product yet.
I also went to the Pensacola show and picked up an SD40-2 (finally!!) but it wasn't quite the ones I had in mind:
No one had any of the normal SD40-2s, so I got the Bicentennial SD40-2, 1876. I'll eventually get around to putting the sound decoder I have for it in.
I also got this tool for 10 bucks, should really come in handy.
I also bought a boxcar kit, 3 hoppers, and a reffer (also, finally!!). I was looking for trailers, but only found the 2-pack of athearn ones that were $15 each (60 bucks for the rest of my cars). None of the Concor or Athearn kit ones that would be cheaper. That, and most of the stuff at that show was N-scale.
I got the stuff for my staging yard lift bridge...16' in 1" by 4" by 8' lumber, 5 "L" brackets, two door hinges, a dowel for lateral alignment, a deadbolt for vertical alignment, and I just realized I forgot an eye hook to secure the bridge in the "up" position...
The wood for the actual bridge and transition piece (the bridge is 2 inches from the wall, and the shelf will be right on the wall, so I need a small piece wider than the shelf) I already have, and isn't pictured.
The wood for the actual bridge and transition piece (the bridge is 2 inches from the wall, and the shelf will be right on the wall, so I need a small piece wider than the shelf) I already have, and isn't pictured.Electrical connections will be in the form of small metal plates with wires screwed to them. They will provide power to the staging yard as well as the electrically isolated approach tracks to the bridge. This will ensure that nothing can move near the bridge when it's up. I don't feel like running trains on(to) the floor!
Packers#1 Packer Joe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake. Joe, I've been out for a week today man, lol. well, here's the latest 8x12 plan. I'll print it out and add the scenery, etc.:
Packer Joe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake.
Joe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake.
Joe, I've been out for a week today man, lol.
well, here's the latest 8x12 plan. I'll print it out and add the scenery, etc.:
Sawyer, I really like the plan. Maybe it won't be like me right now, 4th times the charm. Could I ask you where you got the track planning software?
Did some weathering on the caboose before. Just added some rust, and I added the reporting marks, too. Still needs some dullcote, though. I hope to have pix sometime this weekend.
ns3010Sawyer: That plan looks much better than the last one. If I'm reading this one right, there is a loop with the two towns, and an outside staging loop, correct?
Sawyer: That plan looks much better than the last one. If I'm reading this one right, there is a loop with the two towns, and an outside staging loop, correct?
Yep. I can also have a train running the outside loop (would have to throw a couple switches in the interchange though) while I'm switching the towns, maybe when my friends are over or something.
Here's the plan w/ scenery. Had to swap up a couple of the sidings in Marion. Also, if I posted the other plan where Mullins was completely at the top, I moved it to the side some.
I posted photos of the caboose in WPF, but I don't feel like getting them... I'm too tired
PackerJoe, you're lucky. I have to take summer classes. Luckily one ends next Thursday, the other some time in July and they are both a piece of cake.
Ooooh, that sucks man! Good luck with them, anyway.
Tyler: Great job on the cab ride and pass videos! Nice job with that sideswipe in the cab ride...
NO MORE CLASSES!!! WOOOOOOOOO! Day off tomorrow to do nothing (read: study for exams). Then 3 days of exams, and then the year is OVAH!
Thanks!
I took this shot a couple days ago, but the project file got corrupted to I had to re-edit it. I had a few minutes today so I did that. Railfanning the Mascoma Lake Grade 6/6/09, with Extra 431 and Manifests 402 and 403.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zASjEWa6Dc
Enjoy!
Jordan, I have to agree that Atlas master shells are sometimes a pain to take off. The U30C comes to mind,since one of the tabs is half below the cab, and the other half is below the nose. Problem is there isn't much of a nose to squeeze on a Uboat. The SD24s aren't that bad though.
A mini-project I came up with is replacing the minibulbs in my Genesis F45 and RTR GP35 with LEDs and MV lenses. I'll just have to figure out what size. A thing that will come out of this is I can recycle those minibulbs for use in beacons. The Atlas U30C already came with a hole drilled in the roof, so I'd just have to put a hole in the beacon and the minibulb in there.
While I don't mind the SD60M scheme, Alex doesn't like it...so scratch that. I'll start working on the SOO hockey stick scheme as soon as you get back on Skype.
Well I have took up the task of adding ditch lights to my locomotives. So far this is a tremendous about of planning, and effort. You wouldn't believe how difficult an Atlas Master Shell is to take off. I conquered that task, but now it's on to planning how I'm going to route the wires! If I do a full prototypical WC style, then the wires will come out the back of the Pilot and right on the steps. I have some ideas to get around this. But first I would like to have my SOO GP30 painted by Alex some time soon, and that shell extra he is sending me too, so I can experiment on that junky shell.
Tyler, regarding the Gp40-2Ws, I had an idea, but it's similar to a BN SD60M's. Kind of like this, except Red instead of Green and maybe a WRS logo on the front:
BTW, that an intresting perspective for videos and I think it came out good.
Vincent, I've been talking about the scheme with Jordan and Alex for literally hours last night, and a couple hours this afternoon as well. We tried a Guilford-style scheme, which was interesting but not suitable. Alex favors a Vermont Rail System scheme, which I like, but am afraid of people getting it confused with the actual VRS (it's the same color red, for one thing!) so now Jordan may be working on a SOO Line scheme in WRS colors.
I'll keep you posted.
Also, I filmed a cab ride video on my layout. Riding 403 behind SDP35 #1402.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdiV8zQewT0
Joe, good on getting a job. Just don't expand as fast as I did (I burned close $2,000 in one year) when trying to build a layout. Not necessarily the greatest thing to do when trying to restore a car. (Unlike most kids who get a new car one for there 16th, I got a car that needed restoring)
Ty, do you have your own idea for the GP40-2W, or will it follow the pattern of the other units?
I haven't done much since the last group of cars that I weathered since it exhausted my dullcote. I tried masking windows on a few locomotives but it isn't coming out good. I'll go about and remove all the glazing before spraying them with dullcote and get some cement that won't fog clear glazing. Anyone got an idea for what cement won't fog glazing? While I'm at this, I could go an paint the crew figures in the engines that have them.
Seems slow in here... BUMP!
I think we should have a "BUMP" smiley. Or there's always Bump tags... [bump][/bump]
Stopped by the LHS today and picked up an Athearn RTR Bay Window Caboose. It's NS 557501 (something like that), but I think I'll patch it, and make it the Watchinson Hack, just like how the NS H02 out of Dover has it's own caboose. The 3010 is also perminently assigned to Dover, and also has "Dover, NJ" stenciled on the cab. And it's no coincidence that the 3010 is assigned to a job that is 15 minutes from my house and runs as close as about a mile from my house and my school (even though home and school are 20 minutes apart, lol).
So now the number of cars I own now totals 3/4s of my loco fleet (not including dummies). That makes 3 cars (scratchbuilt ballast hopper, 60' box car, and a bay window caboose) and 4 locos (GP9m [2201], GP50 [4100], F40PH-2CAT [no #, but will be NJT 4126], and an Alco PA-1 [I think, but it rarely gets used, so I'm not sure about its future]). Wooo!
One more day of classes! And then next week, there's 3 days of exams. Then I'm DONE. Wow Freshman year went fast! No more Biology or World History, EVER.
WCfan There is somthing missing on them though. It just looks too much like a dip red paint job to me...
There is somthing missing on them though. It just looks too much like a dip red paint job to me...
The black cabs? EDIT: Looks like Tyler already answered that. NVM then...
On the regular 40-2, it can be the same as all the other low nose cabs. On the widecab, I think that the cab sides and top of the low hood should be black, and the front (around the windshield) should stay red. Just my .
5 days of school left, and a week until my birthday (not including today)! I get out on my bday. Only 1-2 more of each class (2 Spanish, 1 Biology, 1 Health [double], 2 Theology [1 regular and one double], 1 Geometry [double], 1 History [double], 2 Band, and 2 English), and one more A Lunch (Period 5) and one more C Lunch (Period 6). Today was my last B Lunch (Period 56, and no, that's not a typo).
WCfanThere is somthing missing on them though. It just looks too much like a dip red paint job to me...
The cab is black too... Looks good otherwise though!
Looks good Tyler! Oh, and I have somthing for you, per Alexs request.
GP40-2W
GP40-2
GG: Great job on the paint and the RS3!
Jordan: Sound's like you'll be busy this summer. I'm also planning out my summer. Not as busy as your's but plenty of fun.
Tyler: Looks like you've got a plan going there.
And the first of the birthday rolls in (literally, just as I'm typing this.)! 9 days early, but that doesn't matter. I'll probably save up all the birthday money, since I'm getting a job (actually, I'm already hired, I think) this summer. So I can get the paint for the locos, some more cars , and maybe start the expansion of the layout.
Lookin good Tyler!
Jordan, have fun doing all that railfanning!
ok, I'm working on my 8x12 plan. I have it sort of layed out, but I'm now thinking I'm going to drastically change it so I can do some work on it this summer b/c I'm not gonna have the switches until Nov. 22 (my b-day, lol), but I could do some of the mainline stuff. I was going to model a SCRail branch from its yard and such, but now i'm going to cut out the yard and rework the towns a bit to maximize the switchign space etc. of the towns. Will let em get all the industries I want in and make the towns look more spread out like the Pee Dee River area towns they are. And then a longer mainline run will also be provided by cuttign out the yard. and the amount of switches will drop drastically.wish me luck.
Okay. Just let me know if you change your mind.
_______________
I finished the full-size mockup of my staging yard lift bridge. Next will come actual construction! I mocked up some pieces of track to show you the general alignments. The actual bridge will use Atlas Code 100 flextrack and #6 switches.
Power to the staging yard will be provided by contacts on the bridge, so that nothing can move in there while the bridge is up. The bridge will also act like an electrical switch (a metal contact on it bridges a gap in the feeders to the isolated approach tracks when the bridge is closed) to control the two approach tracks on the layout side.
Also, the reversing segment will be on the continuous run connection, with a manual toggle switch. That connection is so lousy (tight curves, bad track, etc) that I won't be using it much, so I won't mind using a toggle. Eventually I may install an auto-reverser, but I suspect that I'll sooner spend the money on something else, and never replace the toggle switch!
Overall view:
The staging yard will stretch at least 15 feet to the far wall, and be two tracks with a crossover mid-way down to form a runaround track and leave three tracks open to arriving/departing trains at any time, plus space for another train.
The bottom of the bridge is supported by two hinges. Nothing fancy! The track won't be hanging out in the open like that, it will be supported by more wood...
Bridge in the up position. Again, ignore the track hanging out into space...
I have track, and orderred cork. Need to do some scratcbhuilding!
What Code # track do you need for the module? I have a bunch of Code 100 switches and some regular track that you're welcome to if you like. Flextrack and some sections are reserved for the staging yard and bridge, but you can have whatever you want from the rest...
ARE YOU IMPLYING IT WOULD LOOK BAD?!
lol! Yeah, Putty will help A LOT. In a couple weekends when I have money again, I'll get some styrene... I also have to build a module by July... Hrm.
Lookin' good Alex!
Well tomorrow I have my last three exams. After that should be the kick-off to my very busy rail fanning summer. Here's the line up.
LS&I in the UP of Michigan, this might happen anytime in the summer.
ICE Iowa/Illinois trip. A Rochelle stop will be included. This will happen the third week of June and will be my biggest trip. This will be a two trip along the Iowa Side of the Mississippi River and across Northern Illinois.
Twin Ports/Missabe trip. This trip will happen anytime, and is mostly to get the EJEs up in the Twin Ports and possibly at the Iron Range in northern MN (If the EJE units get sent up there).
WSOR trip in Southern Wisconsin. I would like to hit some WSOR action this summer, but this is one of those trips that might not be happening, but I'll throw it on the list.
SP 4449 on the CP. This will be a must have trip that I will take in August of this year.
BNSF SDP40 at Minnesota Transportation Museum. I would like to head to MTM to see their new SDP40 that they got. This trip might be in the fall of the year.
I had an eventful day today. I decided to do some ebay browsing since I sold off a bunch of stuff. When searching Ebay I found another U30C and a BLI NW2 with DCC/sound; but I got sniped on both of them. Then thinking about my current projects, I found 5 85' flats with the PPW/A-line weights for a whooping 50 bucks. However, I only bought them for the weights and some other parts (hitches and bridge plates). I'll probably end up selling the cars back on ebay.
That trainshow is this weekend, hopefully that vendor I bought those coal cars from still has those SD40-2s. I'll be keeping an eye out for other stuff I could use, like trailers for those flats.
Tyler, sweet man!
GG, good luck, looking forward to the end result!
I started on the RS3 chop... No going back now!
I'm going to start construction of a full-size lift bridge mockup tomorrow. Then I can start building the real thing! I'll keep you updated.
Looking good Joe and Vincent.
Vincent: Nice job on those cars!
Here's the (mostly) finished 2201. Again, the picture sucks cause it's from my phone:
Just for laughs, here's what we did in Spanish today. Bob Esponja! Now we have to write two paragraphs on "F.U.N." and "Club Spongebob" (Club de Bob Esponja).
BapouP.S. you got the p in my name backwards.
That's twice I screwed that up....
At least I can get a 4-pack of NCE D13SRJs and a few harnesses.
Anyways, here are some newely weathered cars:This gon I experimented a little bit. I drybrushed it grimy black then hit it with pastes and dullcote.I did the same with the trucks and wheelsets on it. Personally I think they came out great.Here's the trio of boxcars I weathered. Just pastels. I spent a while trying to figure out how to make the dullcote seal really good but I nailed it on all 3 cars. When I moved the UP box inside from the other carport it started raining and some got on the roof and left some shiny spots. I figure I'd leave it since it looks like parts of the roof got patched over.Here's a tanker car I did, I have another one that I'm working on at the moment.
Here's some flats I got recently. A few of them are missing bridge plates, container shoes, and hitches; so I'll probably get some from Athearn. I'll also need to get trailers to go on them.
I set these engines up as a consit and have them sitting on a display shelf. I'll have to weather them someday, but I haven't done an engine with pastels before.
Yes, the D13 decoders are silent running.
P.S. you got the p in my name backwards.
Hey guys, I've gotten my parents to agree to an 8x12 layout, I've got the plan down on paper (took me three or four tries), and will get it drawn out in RTS sometime in the near future. I'm debating whether to backdate the layout to the 1970s (would look a bit more palusible, and everything I want to run was built in the 1970s), when SCRail was first started (at least, in my world), but continue the SCRail story as if it's in modern day (basically, model it in the 1970s, and talk like it's in modern times).
It stopped raining before I left for class again (I't in it now) so I checked on my units. I don't think the dullcote sealed right, and I'm kind of lost on how to get as good of a seal as I have on other cars (mainly the PC and UP hoppers, and a caboose; they sealed really well). I've been searching around a bit and came up with some ideas, so I'll be experimenting over the next few days. All else fails, I might bite the bullet and buy those adhesive weathering powders.
Alex, If it's a yellow box you could try getting one of the shells from the Classic RS3s and putting it on the older chassis like I'm doing with my C424s. There may be a few smaller mounting tabs that may have to be cut off (on mine there were about 4 or so) and a coupler mounting pad may need to be made (I'm doing mine with styrene). for my 3 units, it'll cost me about 45 bucks or so, or about 15 per unit. (at the 10 bucks I got mine for, it's probably not that bad in the end for about 25-35 bucks a unit)
Joe, Sorry 'bout that, I meant Baqou....
Translated: The NCE decoders you mentioned earlier have a feature that runs the motor quieter than other decoders.
PackerJoe, do those NCE decoders you were mentioning earlier have something for quit motor drive. If so, that'd be great since I could use them for those C424s by replacing the Kato lightboard with the Atlas DC one with the 8-pin plug.
WHAT?!?!?!? Sorry, I have NO CLUE what you just said. I know nothing about DCC, so maybe someone else can answer this for you.
I put the patched reporting marks on 2201 before, but I really don't feel like going downstars right now (one of THOSE days), so maybe I'll get pictures tomorrow or something.
I purchased another RS3. Lehigh Valley. When it arrives I'll keep and repaint it if its a Classic, or sell it to a friend if its Yellow Box.
I've also been looking into 44 Tonners to paint into Claremont Concord. CCRR interchanges with WRS in Lebanon, and is responsible for pulling cuts of cars from Lebanon Yard across the river to interchange with QNE at Claremont Junction. While the S4 can handle it, a pair of 44 tonners would also be fun to have, and could possibily free up another WRS loco.
Alex, Okay, so you have a point there. However it still is only a leg.
Not much doing today. I weathered a few cars yesterday and sealed them before I left for class and hit them again afterwards. It's raining at the moment so I can't go over and look since I have towalk like 50 feet in it to get to the carport that I sprayed them in.
Joe, do those NCE decoders you were mentioning earlier have something for quit motor drive. If so, that'd be great since I could use them for those C424s by replacing the Kato lightboard with the Atlas DC one with the 8-pin plug.
OK, so here's a few pix. First is the shell with the patch applied. I like printing my own patches because the numbering and lettering is crisp and sticks to the shell using only some double sided tape and a glue stick (and they're removable, so they're easy to replace.) BTW, the first two pix are from my phone, so they suck. Next is the inside of the loco, with it's simple wiring (two wires from the right side pickup and two from the left side go into the headlight leads and the motor. And one more of my three TSRy locos in a consist. Please excuse the crap under the table
I'll try and post those track plans later.
Well, I now have my enxt layout plan drawn out on graph paper. I'm HORRIBLE at graph paper drawings though, so on to RTS will the plan go, then into waiting to be built.
PackerAlex, what's so special about a leg??? Unlike model trains a leg can be lethal... Jordan, you were checking out that WC SD45, weren't you? Wonder what's up with that BN U30C they have?
Alex, what's so special about a leg??? Unlike model trains a leg can be lethal...
Jordan, you were checking out that WC SD45, weren't you? Wonder what's up with that BN U30C they have?
Its a female leg!
Tyler, they haven't made any announcements for the GP40-2LWs which just saw the light of day, nor the GS21Bs which they had a pre-production sample of at Springfield. I'd expect a little over a year before they arrive, but maybe less.
ns3010Sawyer: I THINK I get what you're saying... I was looking at my layout before, and I think I'm going to make a few changes to my plan also. The tracks at the Bakery are currently unused, so I parked some "stored" locos there for the time being (Dummy F7 and the 1300, and some other thing of which I can't currently remember what it is). Well, it looked pretty good, so I'm going to make that the new site of the yard. I'll add a few more tracks, and it'll be set. On one of the extentions (where Watchinson Yard was going to be and where the NJT station will be), I'll put the bakery, and maybe another industry if there's still room. I'll try to make some kind of track plan because it is hard to imagine this.
Sawyer: I THINK I get what you're saying...
I was looking at my layout before, and I think I'm going to make a few changes to my plan also. The tracks at the Bakery are currently unused, so I parked some "stored" locos there for the time being (Dummy F7 and the 1300, and some other thing of which I can't currently remember what it is). Well, it looked pretty good, so I'm going to make that the new site of the yard. I'll add a few more tracks, and it'll be set. On one of the extentions (where Watchinson Yard was going to be and where the NJT station will be), I'll put the bakery, and maybe another industry if there's still room. I'll try to make some kind of track plan because it is hard to imagine this.
Sorta. Essentially, what I was doing was condensing my layout to fit on a 4x8, and I sorta had it where it would work, but now, I am abandoning a 4x8 table, and going with a different design (I have 8' 2" to be the two ends of a rectangle, length is however long I need (up to 15', probably gonna need about 12' or so though). The Florence yard will be facing the bedroom, with the town of Marion next to the wall on the opposite side, then the town of Mullins in a corner, then a mainline run through swamps (maybe!) that would be the continuous run connection. I may just make a removable section. I would get the track for the towns for my birthday, and at least the switches for Christmas. Will this happen, who knows. I'm working on the plans though.
your plan sounds good Joe!
Nice pic Jordan, lol.
Alex... I need a GP40-2LW... Actually I need three... I can sell off my two U23Bs and my SDP35 and buy three GP40s with the money... When are they coming out?
The leg interests me more!
Who's the weird kid in the hat?
More Pictures of the GP40-2Ls
Nice prep work Tyler! Can't wait to see more progress!
Hey, now I'm RP famous! Look right to the left behind the head of the guy with the white shirt and stroller!
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=285959&nseq=0
I've made up my mind (I hope!), and I'll go with the D13SR. I'll also get a D13SRJ for my F40, which has an eight-pin plug. Tony's has the four pack for $59, so I'll order from there (once I get money, birthday's coming up soon).
Tyler: I really like that shot in the mirror, with the train in the mirror and the backround. Pretty cool!
The biggest snow "drifts" we get here are without a doubt after they plow the parking lot at the mall. They're a good twenty feet high. Although, Netcong on Monday morning, after a large (1-2 feet) storm must be pretty cool. Since there's no traffic on weekends, there's plenty of time for it to build up. You gotta see that place when it rains- if you're within 20 feet of the tracks even during a moderate rain, you'll be soaked! (It floods A LOT, especially between the rails).
I think y'all are gonna kill me.
Riding to my little bro's baseball game with my mom, I learned from her that I can now build somethign other than my 4x8 in my next bedroom. and today I doodled out a sketch of a trackplan for an SCRail branch that would have the main power be an Alco C420 (plausible excuse to use any 4 axle roadswitcher though, b/c of how cars are delivered to the major yard in Florence, SC (this is the Marion-Mullins branch of the former Columbia & Pee Dee River Railway, which is one of the lines that formed SCRail). This fits in perfectly with the space I would potentially have. Since I already have some code 55 track, and am focused on getting my rail fleet painted up and in service, I won't build this layout until the fall. For now, I'm going to build a small continous running (no ops, period (thank you diorama layout) layout this summer (ptracticing the scenery techniques for my CPDR layout), and then get the switches and track for the two towns for my birthday this year, and the track for Florence yard for christmas. I have enough locmotive power to improvise on the line, but wil eventually need to get a C420 to fulfil the history.
Alex (De Lery) and Joe:
Actually the digitrax equivalent to the D13SR (new version) would be a DH143 decoder, there is no such thing. The equivalent of a DH163 would be a D15SR (new version).
My LHS is Tony's so I don't have a problem with decoders :).
I miss snow since I never get any.... Guess that does explain why I got that rotarty plow for about 50% off.
Ty, I've only had one bad Digitrax decoder out of like 20 or so. 0 NCEs and Lenzs were bad, but 2 of the 3 TCS ones I got were bad... At least TCS will replace them free, and the one that works is great.
Joe, just stay away from MRC's decoders and you should be okay.
Alex: You might want to cheat electronically and kill the green saturation in that photo... That green tree in the background doesn't look right for winter...
While we're on the topic of snow, I don't really miss it... Except for skiing. Railfanning isn't much fun in really cold weather, but the photos turn out pretty cool. Check out the snowdrift in the mirror behind that blue car!
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1434769
Sweet GG, snow down here would melt quick' last time i checked, it was 94 farenhiet outside.
ok, so, pics of my stripped locos:
all three in consist:
H-15-44:
GP35:
GP30 (this was the most difficult and still has some model master paint remaining, but nothing a coat of primer won't fix):
Bapou, Alex, and Tyler: Thanks for the decoder help! Now I guess I'll go with the NCE D13SR now. It looks pretty good, and the instructions even explain how to add ditch lights (although I will probably wait to install them). I'd probably get the four pack, just so I have a few.
Also, NCE sells a replacement for the Bachman DCC On-Board decoders. Is it exactly the same, or a better version of the one already inside (which sucks!).
Oh, and catching up from the last TMRP... Joe, make sure you check out Bapou and RailfanAlex's posts!
I'd personally stay away from Digitrax decoders. While they're cheap (but not that much cheaper than Lenz!), their quality-control standards are pretty poor.
I purchased two DH123 decoders, and another Digitrax decoder (I forget the type though) back in the winter at the Springfield, MA, train show, and both of the DH123s are faulty. This is a pretty common problem with Digitrax decoders, and I'm not going to buy any more. I'm sticking with Lenz, NCE, and TCS from now on...
You call that SNOW? I don't think we need a rotary for that... Up here we don't even use a seperate plow until we get 3 or 4 feet! You should see it when the locos hit snow drifts on crossings!
I was out at a crossing on the Worcester to Ayer line a couple years ago (without a camera) when there was a ton of snow. The drifts piled up at the crossing by both the wind (it's a big open area under the powerlines, and the wind really gets blowing there!) and the snowplows, were somewhere around 5 feet, taller than me back then.
So we drove up, and heard a train, so we pulled into a small lot next to the tracks, cleared for power company service trucks. I got out, stood next to the tracks and waited for the train. I don't know the speed limit on that line, but I suspect the train may have been doing at least 40, trying to get up enough speed to get through those drifts going uphill. The lead SD40-2 hit the drift, which exploded everywhere... We had to dig the car out with shovels, and I still have no idea where my hat went...
Now THAT was a lot of snow! We get a storm like that every couple years... Last time I was stuck overnight in the Portland, Maine, airport overnight... If Amtrak had a rotary plow I might've been able to get home on the Downeaster that night, but they didn't even have a standard plow...
Want to borrow my rotary plow, Alex? Actually I think pilot plows can handle that little bit.
I started working on powering GP35 2507 already today, I already have an NCE DA-SR set aside to install. I soldered wires to the motor and got the LEDs ready to be installed. When I began to install the power pick-up wires I didn't a good way to run a wire to the frame. Soldering to the trucks and the frame didn't work. I haven't tried scraping off some of Athearn's blackening stuff and soldering it to the metal plate there, I'm going to try that in a bit. If that doesn't work, I'll have to wait until I can get the stuff to drill and tap a 2-56 hole in the frame for the pick-up wire.
Anyone here know what size or type of lightbulbs or LED will fit into the headlight area like how Athearn RTR does them, where that have 2 microbulbs in each light cluster? Having a few of those would help with doing beacons and on that aforementioned GP35.