I recently acquired an AHM/Rivarossi 0-6-0 switcher (circa early 70's). The motor spins fine, but the gearing does not mesh so the wheels don't spin, and the motor seems to have some play up and down as well as back and forth. I can not get the "cover" off to access the motor - the necessary screw is removed but the top does not slide forward to release it from the chassis. It is not like any of my other steam locos in this respect. Has anyone opened one of these that can help me so I don't damage it? Thanks!!
I've never taken one apart. However, you can go to the following site:
hoseeker.net.
There you will find exploded view diagrams of many Rivarossi locomotives. Yours is one of them, I checked the site. Good luck.
LIRRMAN
Here are the disassemble instructions from HOSeeker.
It sounds like the motor is loose, and the shaft missing or loose inside.
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
Great site - Thanks! I'll certainly keep it for future reference. However none of them listed are mine. The one I have has the motor mounted vertically. The problem I have is that in the front there is a "housing" that holds the light; it protrudes forward and does not allow the top to pivot up like most steam locomotives.
I managed to pull the motor down and it is now seated properly. If (when) it pops up again I think I will use a SMALL drop of glue or caulk to hold it in place. The gearing is simple - just a worm gear and regular gear on the last wheel shaft, so lubing is a piece of cake. Hopefully the lamp and motor will last a long time ...
Again, thanks for the web site! - Bob -
Bob,
Sorry, I guess we just assumed it was the USRA 0-6-0. You have the Saddle Tanker.
http://www.hoseeker.org/AHMRivarossiassembly/ahmbuildersbiblepage015.jpg
Part #24 is a plastic motor retainer. Sounds like it's missing.
Has anyone found a technique for removing the Rivarossi 0-6-0 tank engine shell without damage from prying the back of the cab over the tab on the rear of the frame?
Has anyone found a way to modify the model that will allow for easier shell removal?
TZ, I've found the easiest way is to carefully slide two small screwdrivers between the rear frame and shell from opposite sides. The shell should pop right off without a problem once the tab disengages.
Sorry, senility set in bad, leaving out the type of switcher. Yes this is the one! I still haven't figured out how to get it open.With the boiler door (#7) removed, the offending piece on the front of #23 is clearly visible. It will not allow the top to pivot up in front, and the back can not slide out until that happens. That part of the top under the boiler directly below the smoke stack hits the #23 protrusion. Since it went together I know it has to come apart.
Looking into the cab I see part #24 you mentioned is in place. I pushed it down with a jewler's screwdriver, and it is now firmly seated, so the motor does not move. The engine runs smoothly even without having been cleaned and lubed (next on the to-do list), and for a steam loco it creeps fairly well.
Thanks for this drawing, Nelson!
Bob, there's a tab on the rear of the frame that fits into a slot in the shell just above the rear steps. The shell has to be disengaged from the tab in order to lift up (in addition to the screw that goes up through the steamchest). The shell can be released by insterting small screwdriver blades between the shell and frame from either side, as I described to TZ. I tried it on mine, and it popped right off.
The plastic on the shell below the tab broke off though being very careful. I'm not sure it wasn't cracked before because it took nothing for it to break, and I was well clear of the tab when it went. The screw on front seems to hold everything together well, so it should be fine. The suggestion worked well. Thanks!
I have an 0-8-0 which actually stripped the brass gear on the final drive and gave most of the symptoms you describe. It has been in bits for a few years now as I would like to rebuild it for sentimental reasons but probably with a new gear drive or perhaps even a milled brass replacement chassis which I also tried on a Model Power 4-6-2 and is not bad sans the valve gear... got to rebuild that too... one day!
Regards
Trevor www.xdford.digitalzones.com for your interest