What is the best way to clean the track before soldering.?
Thanks Billy21
Just put a little flux on the ends of the rail before soldering. that should take care of it.
If at first you don't succeed-Flux it
If the track has been weathered or painted or something, I scrape it clean with a knife, the flux it.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
It depends on how dirty it is. For new - just flux, for pretty bad - steel wool or wire wheel on a dremel. Windex and a nylon or brass brush work sometimes too.
Be sure to vacuum up any and all metal debris. You don't want it on the layour or inside your motors.
Rosin flux is designed to thwart oxides not dirt and corrosion. It is also necessary for the best joint after you've cleaned the rails.
Karl
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I'd use some very fine sandpaper on the track, or a "bright boy" track eraser, then a little flux to clean it and then solder. Works good if you're doing it the regular way, or with a resistance solderer.
I have a small wire wheel for my Dremmel that works good. Then flux.
For track feeders and rail joint jumpers, I scrape the rail with the end of a steel-bladed hobby saw (X-Acto or Zona) and add paste flux.
Points, frogs and guard rails are usually freshly filed, so no additional cleanup is necessary. Again, paste flux.
Most of the wire I've been using is the pre-tinned variety, which has a surface layer of solder to start with. If I happen onto some that's raw copper, I pre-tin it.
The other key ingredient is a soldering tool that will put heat where you want it quickly. Too little, too slow and your ties will melt before the solder does.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I use solder with flux. No problem.
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
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tomikawaTT For track feeders and rail joint jumpers, I scrape the rail with the end of a steel-bladed hobby saw (X-Acto or Zona) and add paste flux. Points, frogs and guard rails are usually freshly filed, so no additional cleanup is necessary. Again, paste flux. Most of the wire I've been using is the pre-tinned variety, which has a surface layer of solder to start with. If I happen onto some that's raw copper, I pre-tin it. The other key ingredient is a soldering tool that will put heat where you want it quickly. Too little, too slow and your ties will melt before the solder does. Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
You come up with the best answers.
Like loather I give the area to be soldered a quick hit with a wire brush in a mototool.
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