Speaking of the WIN, I modified the paint scheme, yet again. This is a lot less noticeable. I moved the yellow stripe under the cab up a little. This simplifies painting, although 3/4 of the SD40-2 fleet still has the old low stripe scheme, I don’t think I’ll be changing every SD40-2 to this new scheme.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
Ty, very expensive.
GG, I haven't had any problems with the Testors stuff, but I've never used it in an airbrush.
Here's the bulkhead flat I got. Now I need to figure out what load to put on it.I weathered my PC hopper. Granted it could probably be rustier and dirtier.(bad PC joke)the roof, which kind of got overdid. On camera it looks alright though.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Guilford Guy The GP18, the wire soldered to the frame had come detached, and the decoder was a dud. Right now both units have had handrails reinstalled and the cabs are reassembled. Both long hoods and noses are masked, and tonight I'll give them both a coat of red. The Hobby shop I went to didn't stock Polly Scale, so I had to settle on a Testors Enamel. It should work fine, but I'm testing it on a spare shell first.
The GP18, the wire soldered to the frame had come detached, and the decoder was a dud. Right now both units have had handrails reinstalled and the cabs are reassembled. Both long hoods and noses are masked, and tonight I'll give them both a coat of red. The Hobby shop I went to didn't stock Polly Scale, so I had to settle on a Testors Enamel. It should work fine, but I'm testing it on a spare shell first.
Those the quarter ounce Testor's paints? I hate them; WAYYY thick. As to using them in an airbrush, never have myself.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Evening guys.
Today, I actually got stuff done [/shock]. I FINALLY got the camera working again, so I have some pictures. First up is the almost-complete F40PH-2CAT project:
[img] http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3583/3472258576_1c4265292c_b.jpg[/img]
[img] http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3317/3472258676_fc99478eb8_b.jpg[/img]
Next is the NJT test unit, T-400 (this unit does not actually exist, I just made it using my old F40PH [well, what was left of it, anyway]):
[img] http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3401/3471448573_fab7d1e797_b.jpg[/img]
And finally, the layout so far:
[img] http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3280/3471448765_e1d7592d2b_b.jpg[/img]
I got this stuff done today because I was home with a concussion (fun!-not!). In our game yesterday, I got checked after picking up a ground ball, and I landed on my head (again- fun!). After realizing where I was, I went to the trainer and found out that I had to go to the hospital. After laying there for an hour (the longest one of my life!), I developed a hatred of hospitals. So I took today off, and now out of lacrosse for at least a week- which means wasting all my time sitting at practices and games- yay…
I kinda just skimmed through the posts, but I’ll read them all later.
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
I really prefer polly scale. I tested the testors and I got the orange peeling effect. I also tried a bottle of Modelflex CP action red, and it seemed too orangy, and too watery, so I'll probably just order some paints off Walthers. The shells are fine, although one more coat of black wouldnt hurt, because some of the stickyness of the tape pulled off the paint form the unprimered shell.
Alex
Joe, it looks like the cuts are a bit off between the pieces. You're not the only one who hates hospitals, but at least you weren't in for days at a time.
GG, The model master ones and the basic ones don't have directions on thinning them. There could be several things that are causing it to be rough. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_peel_(paint)
I've used testors spray cans without much incident, it's just kind of tricky to get thin coats out of a spray can.
I thinned the paint with testors' enamel thinner, but it came out pretty bad. Tomorrow I'm going to a hobby shop that actually stocks Polly Scale to get red and white, and possibly another bottle of black or blue.
Testors is really bad, unless your talking about thier model master line. I am trying to make a decsision; a tabletop layout, or a 6 by 10 foot layout, with a 3 foot by 7 foot walkaround space in the middle. The 6 by 10 would be more expensive, but probably more pleasing. I planned on having one of the long sides, an industrial park. With the track cutting through a mountain on the other long half. This is all in N Scale. I would like to use Henderson Valley Lines, then I read about Henderson, NC on wikipedia, now I'm sorrta leaning toward another town. Altoona, PA. Give me some feedback on this. Oh, also, I have another thing. I have some Micro Engineering flextrack I got. It is really detailed, but, I sortta "clicks" into place. Is that a good or bad thing?
I don't even care for model master. I like their Polly Scale products, and use those and Badger's Modeflex exclusively, although the Badger products have a tendency to have the pigments separate. I stopped by a really nice Hobby Shop in Warwick today, and picked up Soo Line Red, and B&M Blue. The Blue for the GP40-2s and GP38-2s, and the Red for the WRS units. Tyler, is it possible you could increase the price from 25 to 30 to compensate for the cost of paint?
Last night I got around to cleaning up my room and organizing my benchwork. I have 11 locos in the shop, and 1 piece of rolling stock. 4 GP38-2's getting painted, 3 GP40-2s getting paint and decals, an RS3 getting painted and detailed as well as electrical work, the GP7 and GP18 getting paint and decals, the S4 getting electrical work, and a hopper getting paint and decals. With the money I'm getting from selling stuff on ebay, I'll either purchase 2 more RS3s, or 3 more hoppers to go with the one in the shop, and some other rolling stock.
I have to do a poster for math, but after that I'll get back to work on the GP7 and GP18, and later do some benchwork.
Got back from out game before, and we lost. Sitting on the bench, watching your teammates play really SUCKS! Oh well, at least I got to work on my camera skills…
Vincent: Yea, the cuts are decent, but not exactly good, but the camera makes it look worse. And I can’t even imagine being in the Hospital for days. An hour was long enough!
Jordan: Like the new scheme!
Demonwolf: The 6X10 sounds better to me. And Wikipedia? If I were to say that word in school, I would be killed (can’t even imagine what would happen if I used it to research something)!
GG and Tyler: Glad to hear that you guys got the locos working. Can’t wait to see pix of the new WRS units!
Which reminds me: I really need an airbrush… But I would only have enough money for either an airbrush, or a locomotive. Hmmm… an airbrush but nothing to paint, or a locomotive that needs painting that can’t be done?
On eBay, I found another F40 for a whopping $0.18! It’s brand new in the box; from the same place where I got my other one. Definitely a yes! And I found a dummy SW1500 painted for NJT ($30). NJT got rid of theirs about a year ago, but I’ll get it anyway. I’ll power it, and patch it for some other railroad (once I decide which on one, and I really want to keep it in NJT colors because this guy did a REALLY nice job on it). WOW!!!!!. From the time that I started typing this paragraph, the F40 went up $19.20, to $19.38. I’ll still try for it, but if it gets past $25, I’ll let it go (this guy puts a new one up whenever the most recent one ends, anyway, so there’ll be tons more). But I’ll definitely still getting that SW1500 because it’s really nice.
On ebay there are a bunch of U30Cs for under 35 bucks. I'd like to get another one or 2, but I already have 2 U33Cs and a U30C, in addition to 2 U28Bs. I think that's enough U-boats, I need to focus on getting stuff like SD40-2s, RS-3s, RS-11s, GP7s, and GP9s.
I progressed on the GP18, and regressed on the GP7. Then the nozzle to my airbrush fell down the drain. I have more at Home A, and being 75 miles away in Home B, I can't access the spare parts, so I've done all that I can do today.
The GP18 got a good coat of Red.
I wasn't as happy with the GP7's, so i tried to strip off the red, but the black came off as well, So I need to hit it with another coat of black, which is a primer for the lighter color over it. If I were to paint red over the splotchy black, the splotches would be visible underneath it.
Crummy photo of the 9423. Needs black on the noses and roof, and decals, but other than that it looks awesome.
ns3010 Got back from out game before, and we lost. Sitting on the bench, watching your teammates play really SUCKS! Oh well, at least I got to work on my camera skills… Vincent: Yea, the cuts are decent, but not exactly good, but the camera makes it look worse. And I can’t even imagine being in the Hospital for days. An hour was long enough! Jordan: Like the new scheme! Demonwolf: The 6X10 sounds better to me. And Wikipedia? If I were to say that word in school, I would be killed (can’t even imagine what would happen if I used it to research something)! GG and Tyler: Glad to hear that you guys got the locos working. Can’t wait to see pix of the new WRS units! Which reminds me: I really need an airbrush… But I would only have enough money for either an airbrush, or a locomotive. Hmmm… an airbrush but nothing to paint, or a locomotive that needs painting that can’t be done? On eBay, I found another F40 for a whopping $0.18! It’s brand new in the box; from the same place where I got my other one. Definitely a yes! And I found a dummy SW1500 painted for NJT ($30). NJT got rid of theirs about a year ago, but I’ll get it anyway. I’ll power it, and patch it for some other railroad (once I decide which on one, and I really want to keep it in NJT colors because this guy did a REALLY nice job on it). WOW!!!!!. From the time that I started typing this paragraph, the F40 went up $19.20, to $19.38. I’ll still try for it, but if it gets past $25, I’ll let it go (this guy puts a new one up whenever the most recent one ends, anyway, so there’ll be tons more). But I’ll definitely still getting that SW1500 because it’s really nice.
Hahah, well, we did a project in social studies about a month or so ago, and our teacher was like, "Don't use wikipeida, that's user wiriten!" Really annoying. Anyway, I'll be searching some industrial parks to model in Altoona. Guilfordguy: Nice looking units. So you charge on painting engines.
Also, today we went to walmart, got brown, black, and white in apple barrel paints. For all you Nascar fans: I wish Gordon didn't wreck, he was doing good.
I usually charge for the Paint+Decals+However many hours of work I put into it multiplied 10-20$.
I know how tight Tyler's cash is and in his case only charged for the decals and paint, but I think subsequent paint jobs will be around 10$. That's nothing, but I like to know I'm getting something for my effort.
Tyler, Use the money from the sale of 1701, to purchase freight cars. 22 is nothing... you need like 30 or 40, and the 75-100 dollars that you'll be making off that unit can definately help in that respect. Don't buy locomotives, because I'll have the GP40-2s at your session, AND, I'll be leaving a pair of 645 powered, 20 Cylinder locomotives at your house until late june, and then again until early november. I'll want them for the Hartford Show, and then when show season begins in November. They're currently DC, so we'll need a couple of decoders for them. 9423 and 8569 have been packed up for transit back to Massachusetts. I might get the paint finished tomorrow, in addition to the GP40-2s and GP38-2s.
GG, You're letting Tyler borrow 45s of some sort?
TY, I don't think you'll get a whole lot off of that Walthers unit (maybe it'll help to put "rare" in the title). People don't seem to be as willing to put down as much money on stuff at the moment but it would still help to sell it. Reason I say that is that there are a bunch of Atlas U30Cs on ebay that used to go for 60 buck easy. Now they rarely go above 40, Because of that I'm thinking about getting another one (even though I have 2 U33Cs and 1 U30C I plan to run in a consist, adding that second U30C would look cool).
There was a mini-trainshow (1 vendor, 2 layouts) in my town today. I went and bought a UP box car while there since it was pretty much the only era-appropriate car there. Unfortunately, they didn't have any 40 trailers, just containers that were a little too modern. They did however have a Frisco GP40-2 and a GN GP35 I though about getting and patching. But I elected to save my money.
Looking good, Alex! I may be seeing you this weekend if you can make it back out here and if I'm free. We need to figure out what the operating plan will be without a staging yard...
My work session went well, and New Poland now has track and the layout has lots of feeders! We found one short at the very end when testing the last feeder, and clipped both feeder wires and pulled up a turnout in New Poland trying to locate it, before we found it. I had a joint that needed to be pulled up and spiked back in gauge, so I drove two tracknails down into the foam, one touching each rail... Turns out they were both driven a piece of aluminum tape securing the foam together, which bridged the gap!
I was in New York this weekend, and can't even count how many miles I walked... After arriving on Saturday around noon, I walked from Grand Central to Central Park via Times Square, then to New York Penn Station to watch trains in the trench, then to and across the Brooklyn Bridge, then to Times Square for dinner. Then to Rockerfeller Center and back before we went to bed around 1:30 AM. The next morning, we walked to Penn Station and took the train to Newark where I caught the last solid C1 consist crossing the huge lift bridge with a GP40PH-2... Then we took PATH back to the WTC site and then went back to Times Square before heading back to Grand Central to catch a train home... I'm exhausted!
But I had a great time and will post a link to a trip report once I sort through my 725 photos (not counting the ones I deleted to save space on the memory card) to find the good ones and edit them...
Packer, Very interesting, sounds like I need to head over to ebay.
Well, got home from church just now, we were outside playing ultimate fresbie, I can't spell for my life. Anyway, a good few trains were going past.
1.)Empty Coal Drag
2.)Two GP40-2s one patch out. Intermodal. Norfolk Southern runs around here. So, it was a conrail.
I plan on buying a bachmann grain hopper. Gonna weather it.
Tyler, I have a club meeting that I'm going to Saturday Morning, then might go railfanning after that. Sunday I have a school concert. Maybe the weekend after that? I don't know if you've decided on a date for the ops session yet, but I'd like to get up to Yoshi's sometime, maybe memorial day. Saturday May 23rd would probably be a good day for the session providing that he is free, and that you're not away.
Okay, it doesn't really matter to me when it is.
I'll look into the 23rd.
I cleaned my room for the first time in a year, and my closet for the first time ever. Boxes upon boxes of stuff made its way to the attic, but now my room is habitable. Also organized the workbench, and will be sharing fun ways to keep everything together.1. When painting parts with an airbrush, stick them to masking tape so they don't get handled, or blow away, and your hands stay flesh colored.2. Do the same things with handrails to keep them straight, because storing them in a bag is a bad idea, they will bend and stay bent. No pictures of this, but my RS3's handrails are meditating in Rhode Island. This also keeps them all together.3. Keep the parts all in one place. I have a bag of parts I wont be painting for the 2 Geeps.Here's 9423, still needs black paint and decalling. I left the compressor in Rhode Island, will be picking it up on Saturday.8569Needs black and red and decals.Overview of Workbench and its awesomeness.Another view
Started my own project:
So what are you doing with the GP50? BTW, I like the SP (or is it SSW) box in the background.
I might have a few more engines coming into my roster, just after losing 2 (I sold both UP units). I'll definetaly get pics if I win them. I've been weathing some cars, but I ran out of dullcoteso I'll;have to get more when I get the exhaust on my car fixed (again).
demonwolf, nice loco.
GG, good work on the workbench.
Packers#1, Thanks!
Packers, It's a Southern Pacific. I has a really crappy weathering job. I don't know what to do with it. I have a nice British Columbia 50 footer, I'll get a pic of it. I have about 15 bucks worth of easter money left, I bought Turok and Peter Jackson's King Kong, beat them before the week was over, took em' back, and bought Matte Finish, Apple Barrel Brown, Black, and White. I think I'll use the rest for detail parts and decals. So, I'll see what I can do with that, I'll probably re-weather it.
Edit: I was talking about the Southern Pacific when re-weathering it. The engine is actually a GP40, I am going to buy detail parts and decals for none other than, Norfolk Southern.
Well honestly, I don't know what happened to myself... I kinda lost this place.....
I will read the posts soon, but I guess we'll be moving soon. Already May? I thought it was still March. I hate this time of year, when you don't know if your yogurt is expired because you can't remember if MA is May or March...
Random comments yes, but that is what I should be known for around here...