WD-40?

[cwclark]

after the rust is removed i would use barbershop clipper oil on the rails...take a rag and very lightly (and i mean LIGHTLY) wipe the top of the rail with it..it keeps the rail very clean and also helps keep the rolling stock trucks clean....Chuck

[Anonymous]

I've been gone for awhile. And to straighten things out the track:

was in an attic and the two top layers of track were rusted beyond help.

I bought a AF 4-4-2 after I found the track and It works fine now.

I ended up not using WD-40 but scotch brite instead. I found out by my grandpa that the pikemaster and helper track by AF was "half-@$$ed junk".
I also got some Santa Fe loco's from a second cousin with some track and transformer.

Thanks for the help

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JCtrain

I got some American Flyer track and its ancient, or its been sitting in a leaky attic. And can you use WD-40 on rusty/dirty track?

I read through all the replies and there are many very good points. I may have missed it but how badly is the track rusted? Does the track just have a light surface rust or "pitted", extremely corroded rust?

If it is extremely corroded to the point where the metal is pitted then it may not be useable. If the corrosion isn't real bad, just a light surface corrosion, then I would use a cotton swab and the WD-40. Once the rust is removed wa***he WD-40 film off with alcohol.

Work carefully and be sure not to get the insulation that is inside the rails wet with whatever you decide to use.

[Fergmiester]

QUOTE: Originally posted by easyaces

QUOTE: Originally posted by MAbruce

Holy smokes! Time out here! [#dots]

First it was said to be a lubricant, not a rust remover.

Then it was said to it does penetrate rust.

Then it was said not to a lubricant, but a solvent.

Then it was said that it was developed as a lubricant/water displacement formula and rust inhibitor, and will not remove rust.

Someone says let the track soak in WD40, then another says be careful about using it, then yet another says they wouldn’t use it at all.

Anyone else getting dizzy? [%-)] I think someone needs to clear this up, because anyone reading this will come away with no idea of what WD-40 is or if it should be used.

Actually, maybe it’s not a good idea because we’ll likely see even more contractions… [banghead]

you might have a point there MAbruce! I forgot about the insulation pieces in the track a that they could be damaged if soaked directly. I was correct though in stating that WD-40 was developed during WWII as a lubricant/rust inhibitor. (if you'd like to check that go to www.howstuffworks.com) as there is an article there about it.

Point taken. My opinions are based on my experience within a marine environment where I've had to experiment with a wide range of lubricants before I knew what was good, bad and ugly. So WD-40 may be all you need fro indoor storage but then again if you can get your hands on Fluid Film give it a try as it is user friendly.

[easyaces]

QUOTE: Originally posted by MAbruce

Holy smokes! Time out here! [#dots]

First it was said to be a lubricant, not a rust remover.

Then it was said to it does penetrate rust.

Then it was said not to a lubricant, but a solvent.

Then it was said that it was developed as a lubricant/water displacement formula and rust inhibitor, and will not remove rust.

Someone says let the track soak in WD40, then another says be careful about using it, then yet another says they wouldn’t use it at all.

Anyone else getting dizzy? [%-)] I think someone needs to clear this up, because anyone reading this will come away with no idea of what WD-40 is or if it should be used.

Actually, maybe it’s not a good idea because we’ll likely see even more contractions… [banghead]

you might have a point there MAbruce! I forgot about the insulation pieces in the track a that they could be damaged if soaked directly. I was correct though in stating that WD-40 was developed during WWII as a lubricant/rust inhibitor. (if you'd like to check that go to www.howstuffworks.com) as there is an article there about it.

[rayhippard]

Don't use WD-40. It will destroy many plastics as it uses petroleum distilates.The best method so far is jeweler's rouge on a cloth. This is a very,very fine abrasive that is used to polish gold and does not leave scratches. Elbow grease is the key, not speed. Remember, our hobby labor is free ! Ray

[Fergmiester]

QUOTE: Originally posted by qmiester

Fergmiester is correct - WD40 is a penetrating and water displacing agent. It won't remove rust. And although Naval Jelly does a good job of removing rust, however, whatever you remove the rust from has to be protected immediately (coat of paint or oiled) or in 24 hrs it will be just as rusty as it was when you started. (must be some kind of chemical reaction between the steel and one of the agents in the Naval Jelly).

I've been an aircraft mechanic for 30 years and have learned that the best way to remove corrosion (that's what rust is isn't it?) is by what the FAA calls "mechanical means". Sandpaper, Steel wool, aluminum wool, Scotch Brite etc. to remove the rust and some form of protective coating when corrosion removed (it'll just start rusting again if you don't). Paint is the best, but if you don't want to paint the item, at least give it a very thin coat of good oil.

[hewitt]

I have a loco that would often stop at various areas of track.
other locos handled the track ok
after pulling it apart a few times and finding nothing wrong I sprayed up underneath with WD40 and it now works like a charm
I don`t know if it is because I missed lubricating something or some other reason
which escapes me

[Budliner]

when I fixed clocks for awile
I read some place not to use WD-40 on clock parts its bad for the pivots and trains have very similar characteristics
so I say no don't use it . too meny better things recomended out here that jelly is acid so be carful with that it splashes


B -
Ken C

[Anonymous]

Fergmiester is correct - WD40 is a penetrating and water displacing agent. It won't remove rust. And although Naval Jelly does a good job of removing rust, however, whatever you remove the rust from has to be protected immediately (coat of paint or oiled) or in 24 hrs it will be just as rusty as it was when you started. (must be some kind of chemical reaction between the steel and one of the agents in the Naval Jelly).

I've been an aircraft mechanic for 30 years and have learned that the best way to remove corrosion (that's what rust is isn't it?) is by what the FAA calls "mechanical means". Sandpaper, Steel wool, aluminum wool, Scotch Brite etc. to remove the rust and some form of protective coating when corrosion removed (it'll just start rusting again if you don't). Paint is the best, but if you don't want to paint the item, at least give it a very thin coat of good oil.

[Fergmiester]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Snake

QUOTE: Originally posted by Fergmiester

I've also been told that it is good for Arthritis[:0] But you wouldn't find me using it![xx(]

Fergie,

Don't you do a chassis lube once a week?

Well ah um.......... No[:I]

Am I suppose to?

Anytime I've done an overhaul everything seems to be as it should with no shortage of lubrication, but if I'm suppose to be lubing more often then I'm all ears.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Fergmiester

I've also been told that it is good for Arthritis[:0] But you wouldn't find me using it![xx(]

Fergie,

Don't you do a chassis lube once a week?

[Fergmiester]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

Naval Jelly will remove and prevent further rusting -- and it is not as dangerous or flammable as WD-40.

Now, as far as WD-40 is concerned, the can lists the following attributes:
Lubricates moving parts, such as hinges, wheels, rollers, chains, gears.
Cleans most surfaces of grease, grime, tar, adhesives, gum, tape, crayon, scuff marks, water deposits.
Protects against rust and corrosion, items like tools, firearms, sporting equipment.
Penetrates to free stuck parts like nuts, bolts, valves, locks.
Displaces Moisture to restore wet or flooded equipment such as engines, spark plugs, power tools.

The can also states: DANGER! Flammable Mixture -- Fire Hazard.

Probably because it uses propane gas as the propellent since the EPA outlawed the use of freon gas. Nearly all manufacturers of pressurized spray cans use propane gas now.

WD 40 is a Volatile Organic Compound, which is probably another reason why it is flammible. It is more of a penetrating oil than anything else and I would not recommend it for protecting items that will be kept in long time storage.

I've also been told that it is good for Arthritis[:0] But you wouldn't find me using it![xx(]

There is a product on the market around here called Fluid Film and it is exceelent for protecting stuff from the elements, use it on the mountain bike!

[Big_Boy_4005]

I think you're right Ken. I've actally been in email contact with JC about his hobby store question, and I mentioned this topic, and asked him if he had a train to go with this track, but haven't heard back yet.

It is entirely possible that the track is not worth saving, since quality used and new track is available. It really depends on the severity of the rust. If it is just surface rust from humidity, cleanup may be a good option. But , if it really got wet and is deeply rusted, it may simply be trash, however any switches should be saved.

If he has a train, and wants to set up a layout, this becomes more than a rhetorical question.

Dummy me managed to over look one possibility here. During the last few years of American Flyer, they made a different type of track called Pikemaster. This is very much like Atlas track with plasric ties.

If JC has this type of track, then any of the solutions listed here would work. Oh Fergie, maybe the best way to clean up after using steel wool would be a magnet. [swg]

[Eriediamond]

Seems we have some disagreements on cleaning Jc's track. This seems to be centered on scratching the track and the use of steel wool causeing shorts. I cannot disagree with you and normaly would not recommend cleaning track that way. However, jc stated the track has been stored in a leaking attic and gave me the impression that this track was highly corroded and rusty. My thoughts are that if he was going to try to clean it and use it, that the biggest concern would be not to damage the cardboard insulation between the rails and ties. As old and corroded as this track is, any soaking is sure to damage or desolve that insulation. Granted I would not use steel wool or sand paper on track under normal conditions, but this track probably has more pits and scratches on it from the corrosion, than the steel wool would inflict. Naturally, it must be cleaned of any residue from this method of cleaning to prevent shorts and the residue from being picked up by the rolling stock. I posted this reply only to justify my thoughts in my earlier post. Thanks, Ken

[Anonymous]

Go to the store and buy a COKE sit down and take sipp ,OK now clean your tracks


( just kidden ,I use coke and simple grenn fore my clubs)

[cacole]

Naval Jelly will remove and prevent further rusting -- and it is not as dangerous or flammable as WD-40.

Now, as far as WD-40 is concerned, the can lists the following attributes:
Lubricates moving parts, such as hinges, wheels, rollers, chains, gears.
Cleans most surfaces of grease, grime, tar, adhesives, gum, tape, crayon, scuff marks, water deposits.
Protects against rust and corrosion, items like tools, firearms, sporting equipment.
Penetrates to free stuck parts like nuts, bolts, valves, locks.
Displaces Moisture to restore wet or flooded equipment such as engines, spark plugs, power tools.

The can also states: DANGER! Flammable Mixture -- Fire Hazard.

Probably because it uses propane gas as the propellent since the EPA outlawed the use of freon gas. Nearly all manufacturers of pressurized spray cans use propane gas now.

[Anonymous]

I would use it lightly due to soaking the cardboard insulaters in the ties.WD40 does remove rust as well as it cleans. mustache

[Fergmiester]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Ferg, and everyone else, STEEL WOOL isn't a good idea for American Flyer and Lionel type tracks, for the same reason that soaking in liquids should be avoided. The fact that WD-40 improves electrical contact would be disasterous in this application.

The ties are metal, and the insulators are cardboard. Bridging any part of any track will result in an electrical short in any layout created, and can be a real pain to find and fix.

As much as the scratching and pitting of an abrasive may not be desirable, under the circumstances it still may yield ths best results.

Realizing that steel wool is a concern especially if it gets into electronics and motors, However if you take time to clean, vacuum, brush and wipe you should be able to remove all fibresof concern.

Mr Paulsen is very close to the mark with the use of a fabric wheel. Green fibre scrub pads for use in a kitchen would be a better solution to steel wool and less apt to scratch the track.

Thanks Elliot!

[fiatfan]

Hi, JCtrain

I see from your profile you're in Oregon. I don't know if the product is available there, but here in the midwest, we use a product called Wink. It comes in a brown (actually, rust coloered) bottle and is availavble in grocery stores, Wal-mart, K-mart, etc, Takes rust off of just about anything. As always, try it in an inconspicuous place first (is there any inconspicuous place on track?).

Tom

[Anonymous]

You might be able to get the track clean without abrasion by using a fabric wheel in a Dremel tool. A little jewelers rouge on the wheel will remove the rust and will leave the rail polished.

Tom

[Big_Boy_4005]

Ferg, and everyone else, STEEL WOOL isn't a good idea for American Flyer and Lionel type tracks, for the same reason that soaking in liquids should be avoided. The fact that WD-40 improves electrical contact would be disasterous in this application.

The ties are metal, and the insulators are cardboard. Bridging any part of any track will result in an electrical short in any layout created, and can be a real pain to find and fix.

As much as the scratching and pitting of an abrasive may not be desirable, under the circumstances it still may yield ths best results.

[Fergmiester]

Removing rust can be tricky. steel wool followed by emory cloth then polished/buffed may be one method if you don't want to deal with chemicals. Most industrial rust removers are acid base with a PH of 1 or 2 and contain Phosphoric acid. Just watch the rust bubble off and come shiny clean in a matter of seconds (wear protective clothing as per MSDS). However anything with galvanised coatings or aluminum will be "sacrifised". One example of a rust remover is Bright Test, which was originally developed for cleaning Rail Cars I user it onboard the ship I ork on and it works extremely well. Chances one way or another you will have pitted or scratched surfaces that will collect dirt. You may be able to use things like CLR but only for light rust.

As for WD-40, It's wonderful stuff but you may want to read the MSDS and warnings .

[Roadtrp]

I think I've decided that the only two things needed to live a long and happy life are Duct Tape and WD40. [;)]

I found a site that lists 2000 uses for WD40 (uses are not endorsed by the manufacturer):

http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm

Among the ones I found amusing...

• Shines leaves of artificial houseplants
• Eliminates static on volume and tuning control knobs
• Cleans doggie doo from tennis shoes
• Keeps kitty-doo from sticking to electric cat-box rakes
• Use a full can for a nifty paperweight
• Removes stubborn temporary tattoos

And of course, to address the issue at hand...

• Lubricates and improves electrical contacts on model train tracks

[:D]

[MAbruce]

Holy smokes! Time out here! [#dots]

First it was said to be a lubricant, not a rust remover.

Then it was said to it does penetrate rust.

Then it was said not to a lubricant, but a solvent.

Then it was said that it was developed as a lubricant/water displacement formula and rust inhibitor, and will not remove rust.

Someone says let the track soak in WD40, then another says be careful about using it, then yet another says they wouldn’t use it at all.

Anyone else getting dizzy? [%-)] I think someone needs to clear this up, because anyone reading this will come away with no idea of what WD-40 is or if it should be used.

Actually, maybe it’s not a good idea because we’ll likely see even more contractions… [banghead]

[Budliner]

try not to use enything that can scrach the rail.
it lets dirt build up in the cracks and crevices
and thats not good for the layout


b -

[Eriediamond]

JC and others, for what it's worth, I wouldn't use any thing like WD-40 or soaking in any type of liquid. The steel rails are crimped onto steel ties with a thin piece of fiber board for insulating the rails from the ties. This will damage the insulation. Best to use elbow grease with steel wool or fine sand paper or cocus clothe. If you have access to compressed air, use it to blow the resulting dust and grit from the track pieces. A large wire brush chucked up in a dremel motor tool may make quik work of it also, but be sure to wear eye protection if you do.

[easyaces]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ebriley

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, although a lot of people use it as one. It is a SOLVENT.

WD-40 was developed during WWII as a lubricant/water displacement formula and rust inhibitor. It will not remove rust! You might try soaking the track in CLR since it can remove the rust, and then dry it off and try sanding it lightly using Crocus cloth(available at hardware stores).

[Big_Boy_4005]

With American Flyer track you neet to be careful with conductive liquids like WD-40. That's because that type of track uses cardboard insulators which could be crompromised if they come in contact with too much liquid. I would recommend something as abrasive as emery cloth, concenteating on the top surface of the rail.

New and used track is available if you find that your's is too far gone. Curves are easier to find, straights may go for a bit of a premium on the used market.