Great Results Model Paint Stripping!

[AntonioFP45]

Sept 2004

Hey Guys, [:D] [C):-)][swg][tup]

I know this topic is from March 2004, but I pulled it up to the front page for some of the newbies that had questions regarding paint stripping locomotive shells.

If anyone else has performed any paint stripping recently with ANY products, please chime in! [:)][:D][8D][;)][8)]

Cheers and High Greens!

[Anonymous]

I think I have used everything less gasoline to strip locomotives or cars over the years. Scale Coats' stripper has been very successful for me. It has made taking the factory paint off Athearn shells the easiest. Pour it in a pan, emmerse the shell for 15-30 minutes, take it out, and lightly go over it with a soft bristle toothbrush. Majority of the time everything comes off first time around.

I haven't tried the 91%, but definitely will.

[Anonymous]

unfortunatlly I used this method to remove weathering but ended up removing all of the paint. The good thing is that is one of my cheaper rolling stock items

[AntonioFP45]

Avondaleguy,

Wow! I'm sorry this happened to you! [:0] Apparently thinner shells are susceptible to damage. I used the stripping method based on the July 2003 article on paint metalizing plastic RDCs. My passenger cars were undamged after the alcohol soak.

I know now to be very careful with Kato bodies or other thin shelled models. Again, my regrets on what happened to your models.

Jetrock. You should have no problems at all with your brass bodies warping.

10-4 [8)]

[Jetrock]

I assume that this approach will work with brass? I ask because I have a couple of painted brass trolleys that I want to strip prior to repainting. I also assume that I don't have to worry about warping...

[Anonymous]

I hate to be a naysayer, but I followed this advice and bought me some 90% alcohol, then dumped several shells in a bath to try it out. Yes, the paint started flaking off right away, at least off of the old MRC / AHM shells I was working on; the Atlas(Kato) RS-11 shells had much more tenacious paint. I abandoned trying to strip the Atlas shells once I detected some warping of the plastic, at the part of the shell where the wall gets thinner to make room for the motor. The other shells appeared to be doing fine, though the heavy factory paint was only coming off by my picking at it, flaking off in chunks but not sizable ones.

In the hopes that I might get all the paint to just totally bubble and peel off in the bath, I left the shells in overnight. To my horror, I discover in the morning that every one of them was warped after this, their cabs and noses twisted noticably. There doesn't appear to be any remedy for this, so now I have three worthless eBay purchases, three hard-to-find long out of production engines which, admittedly, were nowhere near modern quality, yet as the chosen core of my fleet represent what would have been my most cherished units.

A lesson learned? Sure, if I use alcohol again, I won't use it as a soaking bath. The other lesson is this: plastics WILL WARP based on contact with alcohol. The Kato thin-walled shells took very little time to exhibit this. For now, I think I am going to stick with my policy of buying units with simple factory paint jobs and just painting over them, avoid the risk.

[Jetrock]

Try an automotive supply store if you, like I, would rather mash every brass locomotive I own with a mallet than set foot in stinky Wal-Mart for my hobby-supply needs.

A container that might work well--take a trip to a thrift store, and see if you can find a Tupperware or other sealable plastic butter dish. Most can be snapped shut to be airtight and are big enough to hold a 40-50 foot boxcar or small locomotive body shell. It might not be sturdy enough for those heavily-toxic-type paint removers, but plastic should be enough to hold 91% alcohol.

[AntonioFP45]

CSC and Denatured alcohol?

I like to keep an open mind. If I do run into a stubborn paint project, I'll definetly check these out! Good to keep options open.

BTW: Guys, as mentioned before if you use brake fluid on today's plastic models, you're playing Russian Roulette! The "brake fluid bath" is one of those methods that needs to stay back in the 1970s! Stick with the above mentioned products or the alchohol. Many great suggestions here.

Thanks to everyone!

[dharmon]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ACL Fan

QUOTE: Originally posted by dharmon

QUOTE: Originally posted by ACL Fan

You'll throw out every other product you've used once you try CSC.

I was about to buy an abrasive gun because there are just some paints that won't come off with IPA, brake fluid, Pine-Sol or anything else...when I tried CSC and discovered how well it works.

Looks like a trip to evil Walmart. I don't think my LHS carries CSC. I have been using the 91% alcohol method and achieved acceptable but not impressive results. I have been a little gunshy on the brake fluid thing though. A friend trashed a shell with it.

Weclome back ACL. Long time no see.

Thanks!

CSC is automotive product, so try any auto parts store. It'll likely be a dollar or two more expensive, but, for a gallon, it's still cheap.

Also good for cleaning the factory gunk out of Athearn mechanisms when you tune them up, BTW.

You may not hear this from me very often.....but..... ACL YOU ARE THE MAN!!

CSC is outstanding!

[AntonioFP45]

Neerie,

I hope these tips have been helpful to you!

[cmarchan]

Great thread folks! Good information! Here's a question: has anyone used 91% iso alcohol on a Kato shell?

C
----------------------------------
A truly wise man would never play leapfrog with a unicorn

[orsonroy]

I just used 91% isopropyl yesterday to strip several P2K freight cars. It worked great, as usual. 91% has been my paint stripper of choice for a couple of years now, but it's not always going to work. I tried stripping an old Atlas N scale boxcar for my fatrer yesterday too, and the paint wouldn't budge, even after two hours of soaking and two scrubbings (the car is nice and clean now though!). I keep several pints of 91% handy for stripping projects (and 70% for scenery "wetting")

For serious paint stripping projects like this (and Rivarossi and Bachmann Spectrum passenger car paint), I use Polly Scale's ELO. It'll work on anything, but I only use it for difficult paint due to the cost. If neither ELO nor alcohol will lift the paint, I either rethink the project or whip out the Paasche air eraser (mini-sandblaster)

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dharmon

QUOTE: Originally posted by ACL Fan

You'll throw out every other product you've used once you try CSC.

I was about to buy an abrasive gun because there are just some paints that won't come off with IPA, brake fluid, Pine-Sol or anything else...when I tried CSC and discovered how well it works.

Looks like a trip to evil Walmart. I don't think my LHS carries CSC. I have been using the 91% alcohol method and achieved acceptable but not impressive results. I have been a little gunshy on the brake fluid thing though. A friend trashed a shell with it.

Weclome back ACL. Long time no see.

Thanks!

CSC is automotive product, so try any auto parts store. It'll likely be a dollar or two more expensive, but, for a gallon, it's still cheap.

Also good for cleaning the factory gunk out of Athearn mechanisms when you tune them up, BTW.

[cjcrescent]

I have used several of the commerical strippers over the years including 91% and the best for plastic that I have found is pure denatured alcohol. It is about as non-toxic as rubbing alcohol, and will remove the vast majority of paints used on the market quickly and easily. For real stubborn paints I use the Passche air eraser.
Chameleon is really the best commercial stripper but I'd go bankrupt buying it in the quanities I need.

[dano99a]

so, was it a back flip or forward flip like Jackie Chan? [:)]

I have never used anything but the 91%, never had a need too.

[dharmon]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ACL Fan

You'll throw out every other product you've used once you try CSC.

I was about to buy an abrasive gun because there are just some paints that won't come off with IPA, brake fluid, Pine-Sol or anything else...when I tried CSC and discovered how well it works.

Looks like a trip to evil Walmart. I don't think my LHS carries CSC. I have been using the 91% alcohol method and achieved acceptable but not impressive results. I have been a little gunshy on the brake fluid thing though. A friend trashed a shell with it.

Weclome back ACL. Long time no see.

[Anonymous]

You'll throw out every other product you've used once you try CSC.

I was about to buy an abrasive gun because there are just some paints that won't come off with IPA, brake fluid, Pine-Sol or anything else...when I tried CSC and discovered how well it works.

[AntonioFP45]

Oliver Trzok,

Re: Brake Fluid. Brake fluid can make the thinner plastics in many of the newer model railroad cars and locomotives weaker and more brittle. And yes, it is not very healthy for our bodies.

GrayLoess,
You'll definetly like the alcohol as the plastic is not softened at all! I let the cars soak for only 30 minutes and got fantastic results. It took me about 2 minutes to gently brush off the remaining paint.

The July 2003 Model Railroader article suggested 2 hours for soaking. So there is no need to have to soak overnight or wait 8 hours.

Jshucknet,
Thanks for the warning as I had originally considered buying Polly S stripper.

ACL fan reports that the Super Clean is very effective also. I'm willing to try it on my next painting project as I plan on metalizing most of my HO Rivorossi passenger cars with the Alclad metalizing method. [:D][8D][8)][:p]

A bread pan sounds like a good idea for a container as was suggested. It is tricky finding a container that's long enough for one or two HO passenger cars and just high enough so that the cars can be fully submerged. If you get a bigger container then you'll have to use more alcohol which can run up costs.

Thanks you guys for your great info! Keep it coming![:D][8)][:D][^][C):-)][swg][tup]

[Anonymous]

Great Tip! I'll have to try the alcohol method. My favorite is Polly Scale ELO, but being rather expensive, I've been using Pine Sol lately. It seems to do a great job, but I have had it slightly soften and etch a few plastics. But no matter what method you use, WEAR GLOVES! (ask me how I know this LOL!) If it's strong enough to remove paint, it will also remove your epidermis with equal efficiency.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

Many modelers over 35 remember the old days when many of us used "Brake Fluid" to strip model railroad cars - which thankfully is no longer recommended. [V][X-)]

[/b]Thanks guys. Peace [:)][:D][;)][8D][8)]

Hey Antonio!

I used brake fluid several times and the results were quite satisfactory. Are you saying that it's not recommended? Is it toxic or something?

Thanks for the info! Best regards,
Oliver

[Anonymous]

The one stripper that beats everything, including 91% IPA is "Castrol Super Clean."

It takes off everything--every manufacturer's paint--except Kato. Also heavy Testors enamels and Modelflex as well as Floquil.

I have yet to find a plastic that it affects in the least.

In most cases you don't even need to scrub it. Soak for 8 hours and the paint is gone.

The stuff is biodegradable and comes in gallon jugs from WalMart for about $6. It is re-useable for a very long time. No nasty smell, either.

Wear gloves when using it. It will dry out your skin very fast.

[Anonymous]

I've used PineSol with great success. Never had anything soften up on me, and it works fairly quickly (overnight in most cases).

It is important, however, to make sure the modeling PineSol stays separate from the household PineSol. Just like the blender, sifters, pans, etc...

Ray

[nfmisso]

Remember to keep the alcohol covered, and minimize exposure to air. If you leave it out, pretty soon your 91% IPA is 70% IPA....which has greatly reduced effectiveness.

Wal-Mart and Sam's Club also stock it, for less than $1....

[fiatfan]

AntonioFP45,

Try using a bread pan,. It should be plenty deep enough and is long enough to fit an E8 (diagonally). Also, you may want to try some of those cheap foil baking pans. They can easlily be bent to fit around the shell. You might even be able to get by with one conatainer of alcohol.

Tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

Guys,

Great responses, but one of my questions is: How does the 91% alcohol method compare to the stripping products available in hobby shops?. Also, the speed of the stripping process?

Any comparisons?

I started by using Polly S scale stripper, which did damage some plastics, took several applications to get some paints off, and the fumes were pretty harsh. I tried 91% after reading an old MR, and it has so far, worked better and cleaner, and cheaper.

I've found that there are some paints in cheaper models that seem to break down and chemically mix with the plastic, if that makes sense. It's similar to what ACC does to the plastic and paint. So there have been some models that I have gotten second hand on Ebay which someone painted in their own scheme, and which I was not able to completely get off. But those paints were dulled enough, and blended in with the shell color enough that it didn't show through my paint jobs.

---jps

[AntonioFP45]

ErieDiamond,

There are no easy words in a medical situation. I sincerely pray that all goes well. Stay positive and post as soon as you can. Let us know how you are. [;)]

Hoping to read about your successes with the F units. [;)][tup]

Seems that since mostly the same people post and reply over and over, we've become something of an "Internet Model Railroad Family".

May the Lord God keep his hand on you!

[lupo]

eriediamond,
I wish you all the best and a quick recovery from your hospitalisation !
i don't know if this are the right english words, but get well soon.
LUPO

[AntonioFP45]

Guys,

Great responses, but one of my questions is: How does the 91% alcohol method compare to the stripping products available in hobby shops?. Also, the speed of the stripping process?

Any comparisons?

[ClinchValleySD40]

Alcohol (91%) is always the best thing to try first. It is the safest for plastic. Most times it works, those times that it doesn't then you try something else. But I always, always give it a try first.