Also, what are you cutting with - what tools do you have? Do you have a razor saw, a jewellers saw? A chainsaw(!!)?
No use giving suggestions if you don't have the proper equipment.
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
If you use a knife try a fixed blade box cutter. Use light pressure and make many passes. Making cuts with heavy pressure will make the blade wander.
I had the same problems in the begining. Invest in a miter box, it will keep your cuts straight. Also invest in a piece of 1/4" thick plate glass about 12"x12"- tape a piece of sandpaper on the glass and use that to smooth the fur off the cut. Also invest in STEEL rulers and corner squares. You can get all of the above for about $40 or less- I've found most of the above items at flea markets and yard sales and they will last you for many, many years.
The rest of it comes from practice. 2 destroyed models is not bad so far....
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You can request a free catalog from these folks on the home page.
I am currently on my third bash with a couple Athearn F-7s Current one is making an FL-9 from an August 1961 MR article.
Get the Micro-Mark tool catalogue. They have a number of useable tools, including a steel square that has a small amount of offset that can be clamped flat against a side while the heel can be flush against an edge.
I've also found that good straight clean cuts can be made by using the back of the point of an Xacto #11 blade as a scraper. Used with a steel edge for a guide, a number of light scorring cuts eventually give a clean separation. Just remember not to cut exactly to the line, leave a little extra and take the piece to final size with a file or sandpaper on a sanding block or a piece of glass.
EM-1 wrote: I've also found that good straight clean cuts can be made by using the back of the point of an Xacto #11 blade as a scraper. Used with a steel edge for a guide, a number of light scorring cuts eventually give a clean separation. Just remember not to cut exactly to the line, leave a little extra and take the piece to final size with a file or sandpaper on a sanding block or a piece of glass.
Ditto!
EM-1 wrote: Just remember not to cut exactly to the line, leave a little extra and take the piece to final size with a file or sandpaper on a sanding block or a piece of glass.
Just remember not to cut exactly to the line, leave a little extra and take the piece to final size with a file or sandpaper on a sanding block or a piece of glass.
To which I will add, Get things as close as you can, and then fill in gaps with filler putty.
Perfection is desireable, but not often achievable. That's why somebody invented Squadron Green.
Chuck (kitbashing Central Japan in September, 1964)
You can make your own putty by dissolving scrap sprues in liquid cement.
Practice practice practice.
For cutting plastic shells in the most accurate way, get yourself an X-Acto holder with a 1" wide razor saw blade. This blade is stiff enough to remain straight when cutting through a shell. As has been noted, cut a bit past where you want the cut to be, then sand/file down to the line on the shell.
I had to do a lot of cutting to make this Athearn SD40-2 into one with the dynamic brake blister where the cab used to be, and to add a new front to it:
(click on photo to enlarge)
Practice on simple projects at first to hone your skills. No one starts out making masterpieces on the first try!
Cut near the line with saws and then sand down to the line.
Tape or rubber cement wet-dry sandpaper to a flat surface (glass, partical board, counter top scrap, etc.)
Invest in some decent files of different sizes. Invest in a some machinist's squares.
Take your time. Rushing ruins more stuff than anything else.
There is also some art to it, so expect to have to practice some to get it to come out right.
There is also some science to it. Plan you cuts to fall along seams or door edges.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Xacto Razorsaw
is your best tools for cutting long straight lines, but it requires patience to get those longer cut started straight and true.
One tip, when cutting a body shell that precludes using the miter box, use masking tape to deliniate the cutting line after you square in the pencil line, it makes it easier to set up the cut and to follow it through square as you may need to make cuts from 2 or 3 directions
The Miter box is great for cutting smaller items. I have also found the mini-saw blade insert for the typical #11 handle to greatly versital.
One other thing, the dremel is a great tool, but takes some practice making cuts with as it tends to kick if your not cutting properly, its can a great scalpel, but it can also be a chainsaw if your not patient with it.
Good Luck
Have fun with your trains
Railphotog wrote: For cutting plastic shells in the most accurate way, get yourself an X-Acto holder with a 1" wide razor saw blade. This blade is stiff enough to remain straight when cutting through a shell. As has been noted, cut a bit past where you want the cut to be, then sand/file down to the line on the shell. I had to do a lot of cutting to make this Athearn SD40-2 into one with the dynamic brake blister where the cab used to be, and to add a new front to it:(click on photo to enlarge)Practice on simple projects at first to hone your skills. No one starts out making masterpieces on the first try!
Cool Soo Line slug ( term for cabless )
4x8 are fun too!!! RussellRail
The key is to use light pressure whether using a saw or a blade. Patience is a virtue when modeling too. Sqaudron green and white putty are invaluable tools when kitbashing. Keep trying -- no one's first peices are masterpieces.
Chuck
Modeling the Motor City
Like the others who have responded, a good razor saw (NOT that Atlas track saw) and patience works wonders.
I also invested in some of the Xacto sawblades that fit in the handle. Small, fine toothed (really high tooth per inch count, or TPI. The higher the TPI, the nicer the cut will be) and able to make very small cuts.
Now, here's what a bandsaw can do in O scale:
Since Atlas never made a B unit in the 70s, and I got bored one night with a couple of shells for A units laying around, this was the result. I sanded the joints, with a sanding block to get them nice and square, glued up with Tenax, and reinforced with .020 styrene inside the joint. I used automotive Bondo, instead of squadron green as my filler.
When filling gaps, use thin coats, building up to a final level, rather than one heavy coat. This makes for a far nicer joint. I also use wet-or-dry sandpaper, wetted with water, and work my way down to 1200 grit. This makes a seam disappear.