So I had my first wreck - I purchased a brand new (to me) Atlas RSC-2, in the proper livery and for a decent price, used off the web. Used, in that it didn't have the real packing, but the model was, upon receipt, brand spanking new.
I disconnect the DCC, and connect the DC controller, and run it around the layout 10, 12, 15 times. While I have the DC connected, I pull out other locos I normally don't run, and give them a whirl, just for kicks (I immediatley missed my walk around throttle).
I put the new RSC-2 back on, and run it around one more time, setting up for a camera shot.Too late, I realize that the front truck either didn't get put on the tracks straight, or it jumped someplace; it was far enough out of whack that after it crossed my bridge, it hit a turnout and the whole thing rolled the "wrong" direction.
48 inches to hard concrete.
The result?
Disapionted, I picked up the pieces,and walked away.
So now Here's another opportunity to rehab a loco, and build my skills.
I've figured out that Kadee #33's should work, and I've got a sound DCC recorder, the DSD-AT100LC ALCO plus a small oval speaker picked out (thanks to Norm at Tony's).
I'm thinking new handrails, and I'll need directional lighting, as the light on this one was in the center.
So my question for this lot - Any thing else I need to look out for? Resistors on X, blah, blah, blah? Where do you get nice handrails for locos like this, and are they worth it, or should I just repair the plastic?
As always, thanks in advance.
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
Atleast it didn't say RUTLAND.
It looks like your walkways still are usable, so perhaps getting the appropriate sized wire and bending your own railings is an option?
I'm sure Walthers has detail parts available if you look as well.
This space reserved for SpaceMouse's future presidential candidacy advertisements
Ouch!! Atlas has the handrail set in black part no. 9707208 for $2.50. It's not worth the trouble of bending wire for 2.50. They might have it in green if you call them.
Jim
Send it back and tell him that's how it arrived!
Seriously...I bet if you set it aside till your not so upset about it, you'll find it's not really that bad. (just looks it!) Everything seems to have come apart at it's factory attachment points. It's not like the shell or cab or frame cracked in half. I've had a couple divers that looked that bad, but were pretty EZ to fix.
Does it still run OK? I think that would be the biggest factor in whether or not it was worth fixing.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Thanks guys - but I think you've mistaken this a bit.
I'm not crying that it flopped, this is an opportunity for me to update this model to DCC, decent couplers, etc.
I haven't done this before, so I'm looking for things that I may not be aware of.
I appreciate the heads up on the Atlas handrails, I'll look into that. I use Walther's web site a lot, but still learning how to search correctly.
Are there things I should do, like replace horns or other details while I have it apart? I'd like to avoid a major paint job, if at all possible.
Oh, and the model still runs - you're right, Atlast makes them tough as nails!
For details, CV 3901 was a RS3. Atlas has the 4 wheel trucks that will drop right in. The old worm and worm cover will fit on the new trucks. 3901 also had a steam generator. Walthers might have those. Atlas is great to deal with for parts, they'll promptly mail your order. Have fun!
Oh my god you're making my head spin! 3901 was a RS-3 - the CV never had any RSC-2s.
I figured the model companies had done things correctly on thier end - well now I know to double check.
Thanks for the tips!
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Since you bought it used, someone may have swapped the original 4 wheel trucks for 6 wheel. Plastic locos usually "look like" the prototype, [close enough?] Expensive brass will usually look exact. Anyway, it's fun adding details to an engine to make it look more prototypical.
You may call it your floor model.
You remind me of an experience I had with a brass locomotive. Thereafter, I will not operate on tracks not protected from such accidents. My entire layout has solid barriers to prevent derailed trains from "cliff diving".
As for the engine, Alco built both 6 axle and 4 axle road switchers with common looking carbodies. It can be rewarding to rebuild a damaged engine.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
dieselsmoke wrote:For details, CV 3901 was a RS3. Atlas has the 4 wheel trucks that will drop right in. The old worm and worm cover will fit on the new trucks. 3901 also had a steam generator. Walthers might have those. Atlas is great to deal with for parts, they'll promptly mail your order. Have fun!Jim
Are these the 4 wheel trucks you mention? This is from the China RS-1 model. Thanks
One of my GP9s was wrecked, but now I can't even tell which one it was that got wrecked.
http://cs.trains.com/forums/1334611/ShowPost.aspx
Just try to get the shell together as best as you can. The handrails can be added (maybe even repaired with Loctite palstics super glue[holds some of my handrail together]) later. Repairing the rails is easier when they are all lined up to the shell.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Thanks for the tips.
I've started with the insides - first up was adding DCC and sound.
Here's a link to my page, and one for a short quicktime (4mb) video of the results so far.
In some ways I'm happy it fell; I need to learn how to do this, so it's been great to actually have a model I don't mind working on.
Scarpia
The trucks you want are for the RS3/ RS11/ C424/425. The Atlas part no. is 9845300. The front and rear trucks are the same. These have a cup mount on the truck whereas the RS1 truck has a pin mount.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
dieselsmoke wrote:ScarpiaThe trucks you want are for the RS3/ RS11/ C424/425. The Atlas part no. is 9845300. The front and rear trucks are the same. These have a cup mount on the truck whereas the RS1 truck has a pin mount. Jim
I sincerely thank you.
Now I need to add lights. Any suggestions from the experts out there what to order?
I presume I'll need two - a front and read light, plus resistors. From what I've been reading, a golden white is preferred for headlights - would these work? Would this be the right resistor?
Thanks in advance.
I am interrupting the thread briefly for an annoucement.
I have just discovered that floor diving is a conspiracy by the greedy model railroad manufacturers and Kalmbach to avert the natural consequences of the dying of the hobby.
Let me explain the details of this conspiracy.
1. CNJ and other doomsayers are right; the hobby is dying before our eyes. Evidence is that prices have dropped on eBay by 20-50% in the last 3 weeks. How else do you explain winning an unbuilt Roundhouse Shay kit for $45, or a Mantua General kit going for less than $25?
2. Kalmbach and the manufacturers have realized the hobby is dying, and have come up with a sinister plan to encourage floor diving by our model trains. The more floor diving that takes place, the more replacement locomotives and cars will be sold. Therefore, all high end locomotives will henceforth come standard with the following:
3. At the same time, track manufacturers will ensure their turnouts "almost" meet NMRA specs. Rail joiners shall be made of non-solderable material that loosens with age. Flex track rails shall maintain their springiness to help ensure kinks at rail joints on curves, especially as rail joiners loosen. Makers of inclines will not include directions on making vertical easements. When combined with smaller, "more realistic" couplers, more accidental uncouplings and runaway train segments will occur. An accidently uncoupled 8 car passenger train section rolling back down a 3% helix will be secretly viewed as the ultimate success in encouraging floor diving.
4. For their part, publishers of track plans and planning guides will emphasize making the most of the available space by locating track less than 2" from table edge, using duckunders and access holes with layouts at 42" high. Encouragement of narrow aisles will further assist in increasing the floor diving rate due to inadvertent elbow, shoulder, and belly strikes.
5. As part of the conspiracy, Kalmbach will hold a layout design contest for 200 sq ft. The plans will be ideal for garages or basements, where concrete floors can guarantee high replacement rates. And by including the aisles in the square foot count, competitors will naturally minimize space allotted to these functions that detract from their track plan. As the final stroke of genius, the winning track plan, which will feature 3 levels all at least 30" deep, a 7 turn double track helix with 3.5% grades and 18" radius curves in HO, and 18" aisles, will be praised as the epitome in modern layout design.
6. We, as members of the conspiracy, must ensure spare parts remain difficult to obtain or non-existent. Otherwise, modelers might start repairing their floor diving equipment. Or building models and track from kits or scratch that would not be so susceptible to floor diving. This could even cause a reversion to the "golden years" of model railroading.
Based on the above, I can arrive at no other conclusion than there is a real conspiracy. Can there be any other explanation?
Disclaimer: Any resemblance to real or fictional persons, companies, or situations is purely intentional, and at the sole discretion of the author. Enjoy - and tell me there aren't a few grains of truth here...
Scarpia wrote:Now I need to add lights. Any suggestions from the experts out there what to order?I presume I'll need two - a front and read light, plus resistors. From what I've been reading, a golden white is preferred for headlights - would these work? Would this be the right resistor?Thanks in advance.
The trucks arrived from atlas, and are mounted. I also resoldered all of my wire connections thanks to some great advice in the DCC sub forum.
The only issue is right now the trucks make a fair amount of noise. I re-sat the worm gear, and made sure there were no wires touching, but I think it might need lube (of which I have none.)
Anything else I should be looking for?
Yes, they will need lube since they are shipped dry. I use Labelle no. 106 grease and 107 oil. I would think any good, light, plastic compatible lube will do. Now you have to think of a use for those 6 wheel trucks. Maybe drop another loco on them!