orsonroy wrote:For those of you who don't know what we're talking about, one of the major visual problems with ALL steam models, brass or plastic, is the large amount of open air between the bottom of the firebox and the trailing truck on larger steam.
For those of you who don't know what we're talking about, one of the major visual problems with ALL steam models, brass or plastic, is the large amount of open air between the bottom of the firebox and the trailing truck on larger steam.
Roy,
have to disagree quite a bit. If you are speaking of older brass you are correct. Most of these show that unfavorable frame cut-out above the trailing truck, but there were always exeptions.
But since around 1990 you would have a real hard time to find ANY brass model without a fairly prototypical rear frame section - with ash pan or without. The ash pan is almost invisible on most steamers - it's placed between the frame secions.
I could give plenty of examples but would have to make photos especially for that reason. Tom White's wonderful D&RGW F-81 from PSC is a great example for a fairly completely detailed H0scale model (but Tom, I would highly recommend to paint at least all the unpowerd wheels I always do - it adds greatly!) - perhaps he could provide a photo.
The CAL-SCALE description of "ash pan sides" is somewhat misleading because these are not supposed to close that daylight at the height of the frame cut out. These pieces are no ash pan side walls but belong to the lower end of the fire box sides to simulate the mud ring and the air intakes.
AzBusDrvr wrote:I bought my first steam locomotive and it looks too new. I have read a few books on weathering and they all suggest taking the shell off and airbrushing the running gear. My question is doesn't this also get the wheels all full of paint? Has anyone had experience with this?
lube the wheels and siderods first. whatever streaking or whatever happens adds to the effect, but protects moving parts from the paint, besideds movement will just bust any paint solidity.
Vapeurchapelon:
Here's a photo of the PSC F-81 as you requested. You're right, I should paint the wheels, but somehow right now I can't bring myself to touch that baby with a brush, LOL! Probably later.
And yes, if you click the photo to full size, you can see the detail of the frame above the trailing truck--PSC did a remarkable job of 'filling' in detail, IMO, WITHOUT compromising the ability of the loco to take scale radii (30" ABSOLUTE minimum for this baby).
However, I kind of agree with Mark about ash-pans being visible on some steam locos--the Rio Grande 3-cylinder M-75 4-8-2's had VERY visible and rather deep ash-pans. The two Key models of these locos that I have replicate it quite well.
But never fear, I'll paint those wheels--someday.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
marknewton wrote:I'm not familiar with the CalScale parts you mentioned, but your description is also misleading. Anything below the foundation bar is part of the ashpan, not the firebox.
Mark, the loco shown below has the Cal-Scale parts, which they call "Ashpan Doors" (part #248). They also make a "Commonwealth Cast Type" (part #249).
On some larger locos, the CNR used cleanout chutes, like the one shown below, (behind the rear driver and in front of the trailing truck spring):
Wayne
Wayne:
I've used that Cal-Scale casting on a brass kit-bash 2-10-2 also, and it does a great deal to 'fill up' the space between the firebox and the trailing truck.
Beautiful photos, as usual.
All these models,without exception,are truly magnificent and I really enjoy looking at other peoples models,which are,far better than mine
I have steam loco's but I just can't bring myself to dirty up those beautiful PRR T1's-they have to be the the best lookers about!
Am I the only one who do'sent wheather loco's?
Steve