I am looking for your input on the running quality of the BLI product line of steam engines for a DC layout. I do realize that they come in a number of product lines - stealth and such. My layout operates with a dc system. The cool thing about BLI locos is that they can operate with sound with dc. What have you people found in terms of their quality of operation?
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Onrman--
The BLI locos I have are very smooth runners on DC--but they take an enormous amount of track voltage to run because of the sound system. My BLI's are usually just starting to 'warm up' at 7 or 8 volts of power, and don't start moving until I'm in the upper quadrant of my power unit control. I use the MRC Control 20 on my layout, and in order to run my BLI's with good control, I have to use the 'Nudge' switch.
Also, it's impossible to run my BLI's with my non-sound brass locos, because by the time the BLI's are moving, the other locos are racing around the track like it's the Kentucky Derby.
So, on DC--at least what I've found--the BLI's are fine runners, but I have to make a choice when I'm operating--either ALL BLI's, or ALL my other locos. I can't mix them.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
I'm on DC too and everything Tom says is spot on - as usual.
I have a range of their products, all steam, and once lubed and run-in they are great runners.
There are a few things that I have experienced though: The later Blueline locos need the non traction tyre wheelsets fitted to run smoothly. Unfortunately this means ordering them seperately for the Big Boy. Also the headlight on my PRR J Class and Big Boy's don't work properly and haven't from day one.
As far as starting voltage goes you can fit the non DCC plugs supplied which seems to bypass the system so the unit will start at the same voltage as a straight DC one. The stealth engines start at low voltage anyways. Only yesterday I doubleheaded my N&W Y6 with my Rivarossi H8 and both were running at the same speed. I want to try the same with my A class but haven't just yet.
All in all I would say they are the best you will get, although the latest stuff seems slightly cheaper than years gone by. But pricewise........
I've had one of their 2-6-6-4's for about 3 years now, dcc and sound. That sucker can pull the chrome off a trailer hitch ball going up hill on a curve.
Jarrell
Jarrell--
I've got one of the 2-6-6-4's, too, in fact it was the first BLI lokie I ever purchased way back when, when it was first released. I use it to raise and lower the garage door, LOL! POWERFUL little sucker, that lokie! Oddly enough, I've been able to set it down to moving at about 5 volts. Of the BLI's I've got, that loco seems the most 'programmable' in DC.
I have 5 BLI diesels and 8 BLI steam engines and every one of them runs great on DCC. Haven't tried any on DC yet.
Dick
Texas Chief
When they work right they are great. I seem to have bad luck with BLI and PCM for some reason. I still love them, but it is a love hate relations.
First BLI Class J, flywheel started slipping, it was replaced by LHS.
Second Class J one of the driver nuts backed off the first time around the bench? Fixed my self and has worked fine.
M1 A BLI, first time I hooked tender to the engine dead short? Seems that was a normal problem for that time frame. I fixed my self and is a great puller, that is it down fall. It pulls so well it cracks it center gear. I have replaced the center gear 2 times now, but to there credit BLI sends the gears for free. They would fix for free but I did not want to wait.
Hudson BLI, would not track worth a darn! After adding weight to the front truck tracks great and pulls well.
BLI Heavy Mike, I still don't understand what caused this. Very little run time because I do not like the sound. One night while it was running with out a train it bent a side rod? It became out of quarter and was beyond my repair. 2.5 months for repair.
PCM Big Boy, tender would not stay on the rail, then lost lights and smoke. Then it started to take a lot of power to get it to move. Sent back to PCM /BLI, bad power cord was the lights problem (smoke still does not work) and worm gears where not a lined right was the power drag problem. They could not find a derailment problem with the tender. Got it back and oiled up the C Clamp draw bar and pulls and tracks like a Big Boy should! I am very happy with it except it took 2.5 months to get it back.
PCM Y6-b, all I ever hope for in a steam engine!!!!!!!! Looks great and pull's like a bear! Pulled 90 cars up a 1.5% grade at LHS with no effort. I ran the heck out of, well over 200 hours. Then one day it lost sound? Sent it back to PCM / BLI and got it back 2.5 months later. I could have fixed if I knew what was wrong, decoder had vibrated a little out of it socket, that was it. But it was the final straw, sent all 3 back at the same time.
I will not go into the Blue Line problems in detail, but one lost power to front trucks and was replaced by LHS. Program a Blue Line is a little odd, so I won't count that against them but it still took 2.5 months to get it back.
Main problem is BLI / PCM repair serves only has one Tech? Yet they have sold more engines in the last 8 months after they released the Blue Line than they have in the last 2 years?
With that said, I still like them and running my Y6-b and GE AC6000 as I post. But, on the other hand I have yet needed to send a Proto, Athean or a Bachmann in for repair!
The one box of problem engines I did send back, there was $1600.00 of problems.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust